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    Rec.skate Frequently Asked Questions: Part 1
     _________________________________________________________________

   General Questions and Answers *

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     _________________________________________________________________

Frequently Asked Questions for Rec.skate

   (last changed Dec 8, 1994)

  TABLE OF CONTENTS:
     * Q: Who is this newsgroup for?
     * Q: Why don't we split rec.skate into separate group for ice,
       quads, and in-lines?
     * Q: What is the difference between in-line skating and
       "rollerblading"?
     * Q: What are the origins of in-line skates?
     * Q: I'm interested in getting a pair of in-lines for outdoor
       skating. I want to get decent stuff, but I'd rather not spend a
       lot of money. What do I need to get?
     * Q: Are buckles better than laces?
     * Q: I want to get good in-lines, but I can only afford $150.
     * Q: How do I stop on in-lines?
     * Q: I've learned how to slow down. how do I go faster?
     * Q: How do I learn to skate backwards?
     * Q: What sort of maintenance do I have to do on my in-lines?
     * Q: What other information is out there to help me with in-line
       skating?
     * Q: How can I post to rec.skate if I don't have usenet access?
     * Q: What can I do to help my road rash (ouch)?

     * The In-line Stopping Techniques File

   (Compiled and authored by Tony Chen, Phil Earnhardt, and George
   Robbins.)

   Q: Who is this newsgroup for?

   A: The charter for rec.skate is for all kinds of skating: traditional
   roller skating, in-line skating (although often called
   "rollerblading", Rollerblade is the trademarked name of a particular
   brand of in-line skates) figure skating, speed skating, and
   participants in hockey. Skating-related discussions not held in
   rec.skate include pro and college hockey (held in rec.sport.hockey)
   and skateboarding (held in alt.skate-board). Cross-country skating
   skiing may be discussed either here or in rec.skiing.

   Within the various disciplines of skating discussed here, most
   anything goes: discussions about equipment, maintenance, technique,
   competetions, access to skating areas, etc. are all welcome.

   At this point, the majority of the discussion in rec.skate (and
   virtually all of this FAQ) is about in-line skating due to the
   currently fast growth of the in-line sport. If you want to discuss
   something else, feel free to discuss it.

   Q: Why don't we split rec.skate into separate group for ice, quads,
   and in-lines?

   A: Rec.skate is still a fairly low-traffic group. We normally get less
   than 30 posts a day (the Harding-Kerrigan incident is the primary
   exception).

   Additionally, it's not at all obvious how to split the group. One way
   is to split into ice, quad and in-lines. But many skaters skate on
   more than one kind of skate. Another way would be to split into speed,
   hockey, and figure/dance. But again, many skaters participate in all
   kinds of skating.

   Rec.skate tends to go through a seasonal cycle. Usually in the winter,
   while ice-skating articles are common, in-line related articles drop
   dramatically. If we had separate newsgroups, we'd end up with two or
   more groups, all of which would be "dead" at different times of the
   year.

   Q: What is the difference between in-line skating and "rollerblading"?


   A: In-line skating is the official term for the sport commonly called
   "rollerblading" or simply "blading". The commonly misused term of
   "rollerblading" is due to the company called Rollerblade, which
   although wasn't the first to produce in-lines, but managed to
   popularize in-lines faster and farther than anyone previously (in the
   States anyway). Most likely this was due to the increased fitness
   awareness, coupled with a growing need for more cross-training
   methods.

   Rollerblade was the only company in the in-line market for a while,
   which has lead to the term of "rollerblade" to stand for all in-lines,
   even if made by different companies. This is similar to the use of
   "kleenex", "coke", "Q-tip", "xerox", and other products.

   Q: What are the origins of in-line skates?

   A: (Merged paraphrased text from Wheel Excitement, The Complete
   Blader, and Blazing Bladers)

   The first in-line model was developed in the early 1700s by a Dutchman
   who wanted to simulate ice skating in the summer by nailing wooden
   spools to strips of wood and attaching them to his shoes.

   The next version appeared in 1760 when a London instrument maker,
   Joseph Merlin, decided to make an entrance to a masquerade party by
   skating in on metal-wheeled boots while playing a violin. He ended up
   skating into a huge mirror at the end of the ballroom, not having
   learned to stop or steer.

   In 1823, Robert John Tyers of London designed a skate called a
   "rolito" by placing five wheels in a row on the bottom of a shoe. The
   rolito was not take seriously at the time.

   In 1863, an American, James Plimpton, found a way to make a workable
   skate. He came up with a four-wheel skate with two pairs of wheels
   side by side, and so the modern four-wheel roller skate was created.
   Roller skates allowed turns, and also forwards and backwards skating.
   The invention of ball bearing wheels in 1884 helped the sport even
   more.

   Tyers' design did not go entirely unnoticed however. In the
   Netherlands, after the canals had melted, "skeelers" (5's) were used
   as a means of dry-land cross training, competition and transportation
   for over two decades.

   Finally, in 1980 when two brothers from Minneapolis were rummaging
   through a pile of equipment at a sporting goods store, they found an
   old in-line skate. Scott and Brennan Olson were ice hockey players and
   so they realized the cross-training potential of the in-line skate.

   They redesigned the skate, using a hockey boot, polyurethane wheels
   and adding a rubber heel brake, and found they could skate as they did
   on ice. Soon after, they began selling skates out of their home and
   eventually Rollerblade Inc. was born.

   (end paraphrased text)

   There were also some Soviet in-lines from around the same time. These
   in-lines were being developed for Speed Skating dryland training.
   Besides having inferior wheel material, they only had a single bearing
   cartridge in each wheel.

   The first mass-produced Rollerblade skates had two-part metal runners.
   The smaller skates had more overlap between the two metal parts; the
   large skates had less. The "bushings" were 4 plain vanilla washers per
   wheel; they were cumbersome to assemble/remove and mechanically
   flawed: dirt/sand would get between the inner washer and the bearing.
   Also, there was just a washer's worth of clearance between the rail
   and the wheel: it was very easy to trash a wheel by rubbing it against
   a rail. The holes along the side of the runners were oval; the rock of
   the skate was determined by how much you slid the bolt up or down when
   you tightened it. Finally, the brakes were old roller skate toe stops
   -- they were not very efficient.

   The first massively successful Rollerblade skate was the Lightning. It
   had a robust fiberglass runner for each size of skate. The bushings
   fit into oval holes in the runners -- rock was set by whether you put
   the bushing in up or down. The linkage between the wheel and runner
   was far more mechanically efficient and there was no way to rub wheels
   on the runners. Wheel removal/insertion was far easier. And
   Rollerblade's brake, while far smaller than the old "toe stop" brake,
   was much more efficient and lasted longer.

   Needless to say, the Lightning was mondo faster.

   Q: I'm interested in getting a pair of in-lines for outdoor skating. I
   want to get decent stuff, but I'd rather not spend a lot of money.
   What do I need to get?

   A: First off, your budget should include protection: knee pads, wrist
   guards, and a helmet. Elbow pads are optional. These "pads" should
   have a hard plastic shell -- they should slide on the asphalt when you
   fall. Good brands of protection are the Rollerblade TRS or the Dr.
   Bone Savers (DBS) set of accesories. For helmets, any well-fitting
   ANSI/Snell approved bicycle helmet should be fine.

   The in-line industry is a lot like the bicycle industry -- specialty
   shops generally sell and support more expensive functional skate
   brands and department stores generally sell inexpensive lines that
   will never work well. Also, there's usually a much greater chance of
   getting spare parts and service from a specialty shop than a
   department store.

   Rollerblade is the best-known brand of in-line skate; they make a
   whole family of different in-line skates. Any skate in Rollerblade's
   line at or above the Lightning skate should work well and last a long
   time. Other reputable manufacturers are Ultra Wheels, Riedell, and
   Bauer. The higher-end skates in the California Pro line are functional
   and relatively inexpensive. Performance Bike is introducing a line of
   skates at a low price; quality of these skates is unknown at this
   point.

   You may wish to rent a model of skates before buying. Some shops will
   discount part of the rental from purchase price if you buy skates
   later.

   Fit of skates should be comfortable but snug. Unlike hiking or running
   shoes, it's OK for your toes to be loosely in contact with the front
   of the boot.

   Unless you have a background of speed skating, beginning skaters
   should avoid the 5-wheel skates. The problem with isn't the inherent
   speed of the skates, but since manueverability and flexibility are
   sacrificed for the sake of racing performance, so turns and other
   maneuvers require more commitment. The 5-wheelers are great fun, but
   master the fundamentals on a shorter wheelbase first.

   Q: Are buckles better than laces?

   A: If you're looking to buy skates nowadays, you'll notice a wide
   variety of support systems: laces only, laces with one buckle, one
   buckle (rear-entry skates so far offered only by Ultra-Wheels models),
   two buckles (old SwitcHits, Bauer women's model, Roces London), three
   buckles (all other skates).

   Hockey skates are laces only (Bauer). 5-wheelers come in laces only
   (serious racing skates) and laces with one buckle (long-distance
   commuting skates such as the Rollerblade RacerBlade, and citizen
   racing skates).

   The issue of buckles vs. laces is still a fairly often debated
   subject, and the bottom line is whatever works for you. Anyway, here
   are some good and bad points of each support system (recreational
   skates only).

  BUCKLES:
          + PROs
              1. Faster to put on.
              2. More durable.
              3. Adjustable on the fly.
              4. Allows for vented shells.
              5. Maintain their hold, no loosening.
              6. Possible to adjust support in separate areas.


          + CONs
              1. More expensive (in general).
              2. Can cause too much pressure on parts of the foot.


  LACES:
          + PROs
              1. Cheaper (in general)
              2. Much less prone to point-loading pressure on specific
                 spots, pressure is distributed evenly.


          + CONs
              1. Slower to lace up than to buckle up.
              2. Prone to breakage.
              3. Cannot easily adjust tension without stopping and
                 re-doing the whole thing.
              4. Laces don't allow for much venting in the shells.
              5. They eventually loosen while you skate.
              6. Not very easy to adjust support in sparate areas.


  LACES & BUCKLES:
          + PROs
              1. Support adjustment is easy (if you normally only adjust
                 the ankle).


          + CONs
              1. Laces don't allow for much venting in the shells.


          + NEITHER
              1. Mid-range pricing.



   Buckles may seem like they've got a lot of good points going for them,
   and they do. However, the two bad points can be big ones. Cost is the
   most obvious factor. If you can't afford buckle skates, you'll likely
   have to settle for laces only, and/or add your own. The other factor
   is fit. If the skates don't fit you quite right, the buckles can cause
   over-pressure on certain parts of your feet. Fit is one of more
   important aspects of choosing a skate, and while liners of most skates
   eliminate this point- loading problem to a good extent, it may not be
   enough for some people.

   So what can you do if you've got lace-only skates and want to have the
   convenience of buckles but can't afford to buy a new pair? You might
   consider adding buckles. Either adding one buckle at the ankle or
   doing away with laces altogether and adding two or three buckles. Many
   ski shops will be willing to do this for you. Or you can add your own.


   To fit buckles:


   From: [e-mail] (James A Holroyd-1)

   Need:
    1)  Buckles:  can be obtained at ski shops, snowboarding shops, or from
        an old pair of ski boots.  I got mine from a snowboard shop, sold as
        an extra buckle kit for snowboard binding ankle straps.

       ** NOTE **
       Make *sure* the mounting surfaces of the buckle are only slightly
       curved.  Too much curvature in this area (the bit that touches the
       boot) will pull your boot out of shape and be very uncomfortable.

    2) Drill with various bits.
    3) Mounting hardware for buckles: you can rivet them, or use T-bolts.
       I used T-bolts with loctite on the threads, and they stay on well.


   Step 1.
        Put your skates on and figure out where you want to put the buckles.
   I would recommend leaving the eyelets for the laces accessible. This way,
   you can still lace up your skates, then tighten the cuffs with your buckles
   The laces sit behind the strap, and don't loosen up as much as if you leave
   them tied off below the cuff.  Remember to place the buckles far enough
   apart so you can tighten them, but not so far that you can't get the tongue
   into the ratchet.

   *** IMPORTANT ***
   The buckle levers go on the *outside* of the skate :)  This is very
   embarrassing when you get it wrong (I did, first time), as every time your
   skates get close together, they either catch on each other or unlatch the
   lever, or some combination of the two.  Not pretty.

   Step 2.
        Mark where you will have to drill holes to mount the buckles.

   Step 3.
        Take the liners out of the boots and drill the holes.  Start with
   a small, sharp bit (that boot plastic is *tough*, it could take a while)
   and work up to the size that accomodates the mounting hardware you're using.

   Step 4.
        Mount the buckles.  If you are using the snowboard buckles, the
   mounting hardware that came with them should work.  Just make sure that
   nothing sharp is sticking into your liner, as it could chew up the liner
   and/or your ankle.  Don't forget the loctite (although it's really not
   critical until you've got the placement right, or until you're 10 miles
   from home :) )

   This method works great with my lightnings.  I got a pair of skates that,
   IMHO, are as good as those costing a lot more.  However, I would not try
   this trick with any of the skates with flimsier liners. The Zetra's are
   pretty uncomfy after a while, as the edges of the cuff do tend to dig in.
   I ended up putting extra foam padding (ensolite) around the ankle area
   before I sold them to a friend.  He took it out, and apparently has no
   comfort problems.  Your mileage may vary.

   --

   Buckle add-on kits are now being sold in skate shops specifically for
   in-lines.  They run about $20 or so per pair of buckles.  Ask your local
   skate shop or call up one of the mail-order shops in the FAQ.

   Q: I want to get good in-lines, but I can only afford $150.

   A: At this price point, you'll have to be pretty resourceful. First,
   note that the in-line "season" begins somewhere around the end of
   March. You'll probably find some good bargains in stores in the
   Jan-Mar time frame. Like many sports, the in-line market is
   style-oriented: you may find last year's style at a huge discount.

   Even at this price level, you should avoid "department store" skates
   (unless you want to buy skates that you won't use). You're far better
   off buying a pair of used Rollerblade Lightning skates. If you don't
   see anyone selling your size, consider putting an ad advertising that
   you want to buy skates. The going rate for used Lightnings in good
   condition is around $80-100. If wheels and bearings are shot, cut that
   to about $40 -- you'll need the other $50-60 or so to get new wheels
   and bearings.

   Use the other $50 to buy protection. Don't skimp on protection! A knee
   is a terrible thing to waste. Used protection in good condition is
   fine.

   For a lot more on buying skates, see the Guide to Buying In-line
   Skates at the Rec.skate Table of Contents.

   Q: How do I stop on in-lines? (see also, the stopping file following
   this section, for more details)

   A: Good question. You've taken the most important step -- realizing
   that there is a need to be able to slow down. The rest is just
   practice.

   There are several general techniques for stopping while remaining on
   your skates: generating friction by dragging your brake pad,
   generating friction by sliding your wheels laterally against the
   ground, jumping onto grass and killing your speed by running out, and
   pushing against a slower-moving or stationary object with your hands.
   There's also falling, which is a valid last-ditch technique that's a
   good to learn.

   Here's the section on using the brake:

   I finally learned how to brake well when someone described this image:
   your brake foot has just slipped on a banana peel. Whoops! Your brake
   foot will be about a foot in front of your body. The leg will have a
   slight bend. The rear wheel and the brake will be in contact with the
   ground.

   At first, your non-brake foot will be bearing almost all your weight.
   That leg will be directly under your body, and the knee will be bent.
   The amount of bend in your knee will determine how much braking force
   you can apply.

   Your feet should be very close to your centerline. This should help
   keep you going straight forward when braking (pretty important!).

   There should be a slight forward bend in the waist. It may also help
   to keep the hands at waist height or so. This keeps your center of
   gravity lower. Try to keep your hands (and your whole upper body)
   loose; clenched fists do not make the brakes work any better! Relax.

   After you've tried a dozen or so stops, add one more refinement: drive
   your back knee into the back of the front knee while braking. This
   creates a triangle with your lower legs and the pavement between your
   skates. As all the Buckminster Fuller fans out there know, triangles
   provide structural stability. This triangle should enhance your
   braking power and ability to run smooth, straight, and true while
   stopping.

   As you master braking, begin to shift more of your weight to your
   front foot. The Masters of Speed Control can actually decelerate while
   standing only on their front foot. Good trick, that.



   A: First off, keep learning how to slow down! Learn new techniques;
   refine the ones you already know. Until you master slowing down, your
   mind will limit how fast it will let you go on skates.

   Watch good skaters. Notice that they rarely have both skates on the
   ground at the same time. This independent leg action is something
   you'll master over time; you can practice by seeing now long you can
   glide on a single skate. When you can glide on a single skate for more
   than 30 seconds (both left and right legs!), you're well on the way.

   Notice that almost all of the side-to-side motion is happening below
   the waist. Eliminate any twisting motion in your shoulders -- keep
   your shoulders square to your direction of travel. If you want to move
   your arms, move them forward and back -- crossing patterns may have
   you twist your shoulders. Relax the muscles in your lower back to
   allow your upper body to remain quiet.

   Watch your stride. Are you pushing more to the side or to the back?
   Shift your stride to be pushing almost exclusively to the side.

   Where do you set your skate down at the start of your stride? Shoulder
   width? Start setting your skate down on the centerline of your body.
   After you're comfortable with that, start setting your skate further
   in beyond your centerline.

   Do you flick your toe at the end of your stride? If so, stop. Instead,
   flick your heel -- drive your heel out at the end of the stroke. This
   will feel very strange for the first 10,000 or so times.

   Relax. Then relax some more. Discover levels with levels of
   relaxation. Travel fast while moving your skates slowly -- your body
   is swimming through air. Consider beginning to practice T'ai Chi
   Ch'aun postures daily. Relax some more.

   Q: How do I learn to skate backwards?

From: [e-mail] (Bungle)
Subject: Re: Yinl" Backward Skating - help!
Date: 9 Sep 1994 00:12:35 +0100

The easiest way to start, is _slowly_.  Build up in stages.

Moving in this ----------------> direction

Stage one:
A simple roll backwards on flat ground, letting skates go apart, then
back to the middle.  Don't try and lift feet of the ground at any time.

                       ___..___                ___..___
Right foot      ---''''        ````---..---''''        ````---..

Left foot       ---....___  ___....---'`---....___  ___....---'`
                          `'                      `'

Stage two:
Keep one foot steady (if you are better at right-handed cross-overs, this
should probably be you left foot) and do more exaggerated shorter movements
with the other foot.  Push the foot out quite hard (with toe pointing
inwards slightly) while putting most weight on the other foot.  I find
it easier to use the front wheels on my pushing foot.  When pulling the
foot back in, do not try to lift it, just pull it in slowly.  Don't try
to create motion from the inward pull.  Motion should be from the out-push
only.

                 ,--...         ,--...          ,--...
Right foot     ,'     ```--...,'      ```--...,'      ```--...

left foot      -----------------------------------------------


Stage three:
Swap feet over.

Stage four:
Push with alternate feet.

                 ,--...                      ,--...
Right foot     ,'      ```--...............,'      ```--.............

Left foot      ''''''````````.      ___--'''''''''```````.      ___--
                              `--'''                      `--'''

Stage five:
Move feet at the same time

                 ,--...          ,--...          ,--...
Right foot     ,'      ```--...,'      ```--...,'      ```--...,

Left foot       ___--''`.      ___--''`.      ___--''`.      ___
               '         `--'''         `--'''         `--'''

Stage six:
This is where you start trying hills, corners, crossovers, stairs,
or whatever else takes you fancy.

From: [e-mail] (George Robbins)

There are several different ideas on the best way to
get started with backwards skating, which means you tend to get a lot
of responses, but no agreement.

1) Start by pushing off a wall or fence, or turning from forward to
   backward while rolling.  Just coast until you feel secure with
   the general idea.  A helmet isn't a bad idea, by the way!

2) Get your posture/balance right - your body should be upright, with your
   knees bent - if you lean forward while skating, this will seem like
   leaning backwards.  If you lean forward you'll find yourself dancing
   on your toe wheels and then your nose.

3) Get your feet at a normal track width - not neccessarily clicking heels,
   but less than should width.  Many folk spread out when the feel insecure,
   but you can't "stroke" from that position.

4) At this point you can fool around a little - you can turn by leaning
   or keep yourself moving with a "sculling" motion - moving both feet
   out-in-out-in as if tracing coke-bottle curves.

5) Next, you need to get comfortable with rolling on one foot, so that you
   can be pushing with the other.  Just pick up one foot - half an inch
   is fine - and roll on the other.  This will require that you get the
   rolling foot centered under your weight! (see 2 above).  Practice some
   one-foot gliding and turns.

6) Finally, you are ready to stroke - just push one leg out and to the
   side while you roll on the other, then at the end of the stroke, pick
   up that skate and set it back alongside the other.  Alternate feet,
   and as you get the hang of it, you'll find that you can maintain
   and build speed.

7) Expect it to take a while for you to get comfortable, just try a
   little backwards action each time you go out to skate.  You also
   want to get in the habit of looking over your shoulder to see where
   you're going, looking only at where you've been leads to surprises.

8) There an alternate menthod of learning to stroke, which goes from
   sculling with both feet to sculling with one at a time and then
   getting a more powerful push with that foot.  This may lead more
   naturally to the Hockey wide-track "C-cut" backward stride, where
   you roll/slide the foot back instead of picking it up, but that's
   more for quick maneuvering, not speed/distance skating.


   Q: What sort of maintenance do I have to do on my in-lines?

   (See also: part 2 of the FAQ)

   A: Things that need maintaining are the wheels, bearings, and brakes.

   Rotate wheels every 50-100 miles. To rotate a set of wheels, remove
   the frontmost wheel, stash it away, move all the other wheels up one
   position, and place the front wheel in the rearmost position. Flip
   each wheel as you're rotating it, swapping the inside and outside
   edges.

   With each wheel off the skate, clean around the bearings. Spin the
   wheel to see if the bearings are in good shape. If bearings are bad,
   replace them.

   Replace the brake pad when it's worn out (there's a "wear-line" on the
   new brake pads if you don't intuit this).

   Practice preventative maintenance: avoid sand, dirt, and water as much
   as possible. These guys are what cause bearing failure. If you want
   bearings to last, vacuum in/around your runners with an upholstery
   accessory after every day. If you do want to skate in
   sand/dirt/water/mud, get a set of sealed bearings.

   Rotate your wheels often. It can be done in about 30 minutes tops.

   Buy a Rollerblade "Y" tool to remove bearings from spacers, or buy one
   of the aftermarket bearing spacer kits. These make bearing removal
   much easier.

   Q: What other information is out there to help me with in-line
   skating?

   A:
    InLine Subscriptions Dept.
    P.O. Box 527
    Mt. Morris, IL 61054
    or call customer service at 1-800-877-5281
    [e-mail] Inline Magazine, Natalie Kurylko, editor

    Speedskating Times
    2910 NE 11 Ave
    Pompano Beach, FL 33064
    [phone]

    Daily Bread
    280 Highland Rd.
    Laguna Beach, CA 92651
    [phone]

    Box Magazine
    818 Lincoln Blvd.
    Slab 103
    Venice, CA 90291

   There are several videos that are marginally good at training. One of
   these is the Rollerblade/Ski Magazine Skate to Ski video. Your local
   Rollerblade dealer should have training videos available for viewing
   in the store and/or rental.

   Reading list: (mini-reviews by George Robbins)

   Blazing Bladers by Bill Gutman
   A Tom Doherty Associates Book, 1992.
   Cover price: $6.99 ($7.99 CAN)
   ISBN 0-812-51939-6

   One of the two easier to find books, this provides a reaonsable
   overview of the sport, but suffers somewhat from "generic how-to"
   publishing. The author tends to recite what "experts" have told him
   without much conviction and some of the photographs don't fit well
   with the text. Still has a good section on "street tricks".

   The Complete Blader by Joel Rappelfeld
   St. Martin's Press, NY, New York, 1992.
   Cover price: $8.95
   ISBN 0-312-06936-7

   This book is nearly as good as _Inline Skating_, but is more oriented
   towards fitness/health aspects. There seems to be as much space
   allocated to stretching and conditioning as skating. One useful
   section describes construction and use of a slide-board for off season
   training.

   The Complete Guide and Resource to In-line Skating
   by Stephen Christopher Joyner
   Betterway Books, Cincinnati OH - 1993
   Trade Paperback, 176 pages, $12.95
   ISBN 1-55870-289-X

   As a resource guide, this is a useful book, the appendices list
   Magazines, Manufacturers, Retailers, Organizations, Roller Hockey
   Leagues, IISA certified instructors and also a rather eclectic
   bibliography. The rest of the text is OK and has a few interesting
   features, but either of the first two in-line books (The Complete
   Blader and Inline Skating) mentioned above would be more useful,
   especially for the beginning skater. Some Specific irritations are
   only the briefest mention of roller hockey where I would exepect at
   least an information presentation of rules, equipment and game play,
   and a strong anti-quad bias including a history of skating which leaps
   from Plimpton's error (a steerable truck quad skate) to Scott Olson's
   Rollerblade as if no-one enjoyed skating in the interiem.

   Inline Skating by Mark Powell & John Svenson
   Human Kinetics Publising, 1993
   Trade Paperback, 134 PP, $12.95
   ISBN 0-87322-399-3

   Of the recent rash of in-line skating "how to" books, this is probably
   best and most balanced one. It has good coverage of equipment and
   basic skating skills, mention of dance and fun skating, and doesn't
   suffer from any fitness obsession.

   Laura Stamm's Power Skating by Laura Stamm
   Leisure Press, 1989
   Cover price: $17.95
   ISBN 0-88011-331-6

   Wheel Excitement by Neil Feineman with Team Rollerblade(R)
   Hearst Books, New York, NY 1991.
   Cover price: $9.00
   ISBN 0-688-10814-8

   At one point, this was the only book on in-line skating and it still
   serves as a decent introduction to the sport. Lots of pictures of
   California kids having a good time. The actual text is a little thin
   and any of the above books are better if you can find them in your
   area.

   Q: How can I post to rec.skate if I don't have usenet access?

   A: There are a few mailing lists out there that will post messages
   sent to them. The only one I can recall is: [e-mail].

   Q: What can I do to help my road rash (ouch)?

   A: (from many users)

   From: [e-mail] (Andy Hill)

   Not a cure, but lots of Neosporin will help keep the rash from getting
   infected (a big problem with large-area road rash). Makes the scabs
   look really nasty, 'tho - be prepared for some really grossed-out
   looks if you don't gauze it over.

   From: [e-mail] (George Robbins)

   There is no "cure".

   The traditional treatment is to wash the area, let it scab over and
   wait for it to heal. If there is a lot of imbedded dirt, glass or
   gravel you want to see a doctor for extra pain and cleansing.

   The underground remedy (for small spots) is to use "Bag Balm", a
   vetrinary product for soothing cows udders, found at your local farm
   supply outlet. It provides a waterproof covering for the wound, which
   apparently prevents the formation of a thick, inflexible scab.
   Actually Vaseline does pretty much the same thing, with people asking
   you what breed of cows you prefer.

   In either case, the overall healing time is simlar, however the latter
   may cause less interference with skating, scarring and hassles with
   scabs cracking or being torn off.

   Another possibility is to use a "Newskin" type product, the one I've
   seen comes in a bottle, you put it one, the alcohol (sting!)
   evaporates, leaving a thin, flexible membrane, which seems to work on
   the same idea as above, but it's dry on the outside, not gooky.

   Please treat such wounds with respect, infection, scarring or
   prolonged healing periods are always a possibility, especially with
   larger area's of damaged skin or contamination.

   From: [e-mail] (Matt Hicks)

   Well, I checked out what everyone else suggested and I didn't see this
   one exactly, so here goes. I have a friend who is a (semi?) pro speed
   skater and has taken some nasty spills at high speed. Last year he
   ripped up his right thigh/buttock when he hit a wet spot in a turn--it
   was uuugly. Anyway, he used either neosporin or a burn creme (road
   rash is 90% burn anyway) and he covered the wound completely with
   plastic wrap held on with medical tape. There was nothing special
   about the wrap--just Saran Wrap or the equivalent. I've had a lot of
   rash from bicycle racing and I've never seen anything heal as quickly
   or as well as this lump of hamburger did. He never got a scab going;
   the wound just got smaller and smaller until it was gone. The main
   thing you need to do with this treatment is clean the wound really
   well--I'm guessing he probably cleaned it thoroughly twice a day
   (morning and evening). The next time I get scraped up I'm going to try
   this treatment myself--if nothing else it will keep the wound from
   oozing through my clothes--yuck!

   From: [e-mail] (Steven Malcolm Nichols)

   Finally, on the subject of road rash. I've heard people advocate both
   covering the area to try to keep a scab from forming and airing it. I
   have tried both and don't really have a preference. I believe that the
   most important thing you can do is keep it clean (i.e. wash/clean it a
   couple of times a day) and of course, keep it from getting infected.
   3M makes a product called second skin, I think the original
   application was for burn victims. Second skin is something like 96%
   water & 4% miracle plastic that acts as a skin. A couple of people
   mentioned Neosporin; I was told by a paramedic that Neosporin in large
   quantities can be toxic -- he couldn't really be quantitative about
   what this means, but just be aware. I have found antecdotally (and
   maybe I even read this somewhere) that sunlight seems to encourage
   pink shiny scar tissue (dang! I'll never be a swimsuit model now!), so
   you might want to let the rash heal up before you go tanning at the
   beach.

   From: [e-mail] (Adam Pratt)

   I do not have any quick fixes for road rash, though I have had a lot!
   I mean a lot! Nine days ago I launched off a 4 and a half foot ledge
   from one parking lot to another. There is about 12-15 feet of mulch
   and bushes slanting between the parking lot I jumped from and the
   parking lot below I was jumping into. It was an awesome jump, but at
   the bottom, I did not quite make the pavement. My skates hit soft
   mulch at the botom, dug in an inch, and my 10+ mph threw by body on
   the pavement. Most of the weight hit my wrist guards and the front of
   my helmet. If I did not have wrist guards on, I would have shattered
   by hands, wrists, and forearms. It was intense! I could not hold all
   my weight aand slid out on my right elbow and right hip (OUCH on the
   hip!)

   Anyway, I just wanted to share my awesome spill with you friends. It
   was one of the most intense spills I have seen. Now back to the road
   rash part...

   I already had a scar on my right hip from a previous spill. Now I have
   a bigger one. The way to get rid of it is to COAT it with vitamin E
   oil. Do not wait for it to heal, then use it. Scrub it hard, ointment
   like crazy, let it scab, and then DON'T pick! As soon as it is starts
   to get hard, keep vitamin E oil on it constantly!

   I have had two major surgeries on each shin and the cut me alle the
   way up and down. I did not use Vitamin E the first time and the scars
   were nasty. I used it the second time and you can barely see them! I
   really believe this stuff helps! You can buy it at GNC and other
   health food stores.

   From:

   After my first crash, where the Fire Department guys had to clean me
   up, I started to cary first aid supplies (each crach statistic is a
   statistic in favor of baning inline skating). I have the following in
   my bag:

   Large bandaids (2 in.) Gauze pads (for covering wounds and for
   cleaning wounds) Anticeptic wipes Neosporin ointment

   I even found use for these at the ice rink this past winter, when I
   cut my self on my blades. Yes, I have goten road rash from the ice
   rink although, I think it was where the elastic underwear band abraded
   my skin.

   From: [e-mail] (Jim Aites)

   : Anticeptic wipes : Neosporin ointment

   DERMABLAST - a spray-on topical anesthetic. (smaller container
   required)

   How about something for the 'shockies'? I hate seeing black-n-white
   (with stars)! I know, "sit down and put your head between your knees",
   but I was thinking of something more along the line of Asperin, a shot
   of scotch, or some other good analgesic. ;)


     _________________________________________________________________



The In-line Stopping Techniques File



   (written February 1992)
   (lasted changed Jan 24, 1994)

   [ This file is Copyright 1994 by Anthony D. Chen. It may be freely
   redistributed in its entirety provided that this copyright notice is
   not removed.

   License is hereby granted to republish on electronic or other media
   for which no fees are charged (except for the media used), so long as
   the text of this copyright notice and license are attached intact to
   any and all republished portion or portions.

   It may not be sold for profit or incorporated in commercial documents
   without the written permission of the copyright holder.

   Permission is expressly granted for this document to be made
   available for file transfer from installations offering unrestricted
   anonymous file transfer on the Internet.

   This file is provided as is without any express or implied warranty.
   Nothing in this file represents the views of Florida State
   University.]

   This document is written for rec.skate, one of the thousands of
   newsgroups under USENET, the international electronic news network
   which reaches millions of readers. You will see "8-)" in use
   throughout the text and if you look at it with your head tilted to the
   left the intent should be obvious 8-)

   NOTE: This list is arranged in order of increasing difficulty as per
   my experience. Your experiences WILL undoubtedly vary from mine. This
   list does not purport to be the definitive list of stopping
   techniques, but it does strive to be as complete and descriptive as
   possible.

   It is not expected that everyone will learn, or even want to learn,
   all the methods discussed in this file. It is simply a catalog of
   techniques to choose from. Some techniques require more flexibility,
   some require more finesse, and some require more guts 8-)

   Good luck, and skate smart.

   -Tony Chen ([e-mail])

     _________________________________________________________________

List of stops:

  BEGINNER LEVEL
     * runouts
     * wall stop
     * windbraking
     * the brake-pad
     * V-stop/snowplow

  INTERMEDIATE LEVEL
     * advanced runouts
     * (regular) spinout/lunge stop
     * spread eagle spinout
     * crossover stop
     * slaloming/parallel turns

  ADVANCED LEVEL
     * T-stop (includes a picture tutorial)
     * toe drag
     * backwards T-stop
     * Stepping stops
          + backward stepping stop
          + forward stepping stop
     * reverse stop (forwards snow-plow)
     * backwards heel drag
     * toe-drag spinouts
     * heel-drag spinouts
     * curb ramming
     * power stop/power slide (includes a picture tutorial)
     * chop-stop
     * New York stop
     * "Wile E. Coyote" stops

   Combination stops

   Related topics:
     * falling
     * collisions with stationary objects


     _________________________________________________________________

   While the basic repretoire of stopping techniques includes the
   brake-pad, the T-stop, spinouts, and the power slide, this file is
   meant to go one step beyond merely teaching and outlining the basics.
   The basics should be learned first, but once skaters progress beyond
   them, they often look for more advanced or different techniques, hence
   this compilation of techniques.
     _________________________________________________________________

  BEGINNER LEVEL

   The following set of stopping methods, most beginner skaters should be
   able to handle. They keep both feet on the ground throughout the stop,
   and don't require as much independent leg action as more advanced
   stops.

   * RUNOUTS:
          Assuming the path you're skating on has grass or packed dirt
          (or some other hard-to-roll-on surface), you can just skate off
          the path and reduce your speed by running onto the grass
          (hop-hop-hop-hop-hop). In the worst case scenario, you can
          tumble and hopefully you won't take any damage.

   * WALL STOP:
          This stop is simply to skate towards a wall (or any reasonably
          stationary object, really) and use your arms to absorb the
          impact. At low speeds, this should be quite safe (make sure you
          turn your head to the side so as not to smash your face). You
          may or may not bang your skates, depending on your speed and
          how you hit. The key is to use your arms as cushioning springs
          (like doing a standing push-up.) One way to practice this is to
          stand a few feet from a wall (with your skates on). Now fall on
          your hands against the wall, and you should be able to bounce a
          little, while still avoiding banging your head. The faster your
          approach, the less bounce will result.

          A variation on the wall stop is the billiard ball stop. Instead
          of stopping against an object, use a fellow skater to push off
          and transfer your momentum to them. To be safe, warn the
          receiving person about your approach. It works well on flat
          surfaces and at low to moderate speeds. It's not recommended at
          high speeds and especially on people you don't know 8-)

          See the collision section for more extreme cases.

   * WIND-BRAKING:
          Wind-braking is more for speed-control than to stop (although
          on windy days, this can stop you). Just stand up, spread your
          arms out and catch the air like a sail. You'll probably need to
          lean forwards slightly, to counter the force of the wind.

   * THE BRAKE-PAD:
          The brake-pad is subject to much debate amongst skaters. Many
          people with ice skating and rollerskating backgrounds find the
          brake in the way, in the wrong place, or simply ineffective.
          However, those of you taking the little time to learn to use
          the it proficiently, the brake-pad becomes a very versatile
          piece of equipment because:

         1. you can use it to stop, even at very high speeds;
         2. it allows you to keep both skates on the ground while
            stopping (good for keeping your balance);
         3. you can maintain a narrow profile (good for high traffic
            areas where cars or bicycles might be passing you);
         4. you can still steer yourself;
         5. the sound of braking can often alert others to your presence;
         6. the brake-pad is the most cost-effective technique there is
            so far for in-lines.



          To learn how to use the brake-pad, first coast with both skates
          shoulder-width apart. As you coast, scissor your feet back and
          forth a few times to get used to the weight shift. To apply the
          brake then, scissor your skate so your braking skate is out
          front. Lift the toe of your brake skate and press with the heel
          too. Your body weight is centered and even slightly on your
          back skate when you're just learning it. The key is a straight
          back and bent knees.

          If you have trouble balancing or find your braking ankle a
          little weak, you can try the following trick: form a triangle
          with your legs (from the knee down to your skates) and the
          ground. This means putting your back knee either right behind
          or next to, the brake-foot knee to form that triangle.

          Eventually you'll want to stop at high speeds. Basically, the
          more pressure you use on the brake pad the faster you stop.
          Maximum stopping power is achieved by putting your entire body
          weight onto the brake by lifting your back foot, and leaning
          onto the brake. This takes some practice but is very effective.
          It is possible to stop within 15-20 ft even when going over 20
          mph. Practically speaking, you may still want to keep the other
          skate on the ground for balance.

          Note that the amount of leverage, and therefore the amount of
          stopping power you have, is dependent on how worn your brake
          is. A half-worn brake will provide better leverage than either
          a new brake or a worn-out brake. Some people sand or saw off
          part of new brakes to avoid the annoying breaking-in period.

          One important point to keep in mind when using the brake-pad:
          You can still steer while braking. Just keep the brake-pad on
          the ground and pivot on your heel wheel slightly to go the
          direction you want. This is very useful while going down a very
          narrow and curvy path or while trying to avoid curbs,
          pedestrians, parked cars, trees, and the like.

          A brake-pad generally runs from $3 to $6 depending on what type
          you buy. Compare this with wheels which are $5.50 or more each
          and the freebie stops: runouts, wind-braking, billiard ball
          stop (freebies since you're not wearing anything down). Wheels
          are expensive, and the freebie stops are infrequently
          available, if at all, for the large majority of skating
          situations. The brake can be your standard stop, provided that
          you learn it well. (see "Wile E. Coyote" stops for a rather
          interesting variation)

   * V-STOP/SNOWPLOW:
          For a low-speed rolling stop, point your heels inward (for
          backwards) or your toes together (for forwards) and let your
          skates bang into each other. This might throw you in the
          direction you're going (depending on your speed), so take care
          to be prepared to lean forward or backwards to compensate.

          You can do a more exaggerated snowplow by spreading your legs
          out past shoulder-width and pointing your skates inward or
          outwards as before (and you won't bang your skates together.)
          Here, use leg strength to press your inner edges against the
          ground, and you'll slow down appreciably. This can work even at
          very high speeds.


     _________________________________________________________________

  INTERMEDIATE LEVEL

   * ADVANCED RUNOUTS:
          Skating off pavement onto grass. You can weave from pavement to
          grass and back to pavement to control your speed, especially
          when going downhill. To stop completely just stay on the grass.


          As you hit the grass, knees are kept bent, and one foot is
          ahead of the other. Nearly all weight is distributed on the
          foot that will hit the grass first, and you keep that leg real
          stiff, as if plowing a path for the trailing leg to follow.
          Very little weight is on the trailing leg. Muscles in the
          trailing leg are relaxed. The only function of the trailing leg
          is stability and balance. The leading leg does most of the
          work.

          Beginners are often intimidated by this procedure, but it is
          really a very simple physical feat. The hard part, if any, is
          simply understanding mentally what it is you are trying to do,
          as I explained.

          This is a lot of fun, too. I like to hit the grass full speed,
          and then skate as far down a slope as possible before the grass
          stops me.

          One important requirement is that the ground should be dry. Wet
          dirt or grass will clog your wheels and your skates will also
          sink into mud (yuck).

   * (REGULAR) SPINOUTS/LUNGE STOP:
          This is where you skate into a spin to transfer your linear
          momentum into angular momentum. To do this, you sort of
          stop-n-hold one skate at an angle to act as the pivot foot and
          the other traces a circle around it (and you). It may help to
          think of having each skate trace concentric circles, with the
          pivot skate tracing the much smaller inner one. The pivot skate
          will be turning on its outside edge, while the outer skate will
          be on its inside edge.

   * SPREAD EAGLE SPINOUTS:
          A spinout with your skates in a bent spread eagle position
          (i.e., heels pointed towards each other, skates at slightly
          less than 180 degrees). There is no pivot foot here, instead
          both your skates trace the arc.

          There are inside and outside spread eagles, where you skate on
          both inside or both outside edges. The above paragraph
          describes the inside spread eagle.

          A sustained outside spread eagle is more of an artistic skating
          move than a practical stop, although I use it occasionally to
          stop on flat surfaces.

          NOTE that all types of spinouts require a fair amount of room.
          Your forward motion is quite suddenly changed to angular motion
          so I'd recommend this mainly for low traffic areas where you
          won't have people running into you from behind when you do the
          spinout.

   * CROSSOVER STOP:
          This stop works both forwards and backwards at higher speeds. I
          call this the crossover stop because your feet are held in the
          position of a spread-out crossover. In this stop, you're going
          to be arcing to one side. The harder and sharper you turn, the
          faster you stop. If you tend to trip on your skates, spread
          your skates farther apart (forwards-backwards).

          The braking pressure comes from the turn. The harder you press
          with the outer edge of your back skate, the faster you stop. So
          if you're turning left, your right skate is in front, the left
          skate is almost right behind it (so that all your wheels are in
          line). Press on the outer edge of your left skate (your back
          skate) and on the inner edge of your right skate.

          There is also the inverted crossover stop where your feet
          positions are reversed: so you turn left with your left foot
          forward and right foot back (and vice versa for right turns).
          Watch ice hockey players just after play has stopped. More
          often than not, the circle around in the inverted crossover
          position.

          Both crossover stops are good for high speed stops but make
          sure you have plenty of open space.

   * SLALOMING/PARALLEL TURNS:
          For skiers, this maps over very nicely. This is more of a speed
          control technique rather than a stop, but it's very useful to
          know. Explaining slalom turns can take an entire book in
          itself, so I will merely suggest that you find a skier or a ski
          book to show you how.

          One way to practice this is to find a nice gentle slope with
          plenty of space at the bottom, set up cones in a line, and
          weave through the cones.


     _________________________________________________________________

  ADVANCED LEVEL

   This next set of stops require good independent leg control. These
   advanced stops will require you to be skating only one foot for some
   portion of the technique.

   * T-STOP:
          This stop uses your wheels as a source of friction. To do the
          T-stop, place one skate behind you, nearly perpendicular to
          your direction of travel. Bend a little in both knees to drag
          your wheels. You should think more of dragging the heel than
          the toe. Apply the braking pressure to your heel. If you drag
          the toe too much, you will end up spinning around. Keep your
          weight mainly on your skating (front) foot. As you learn to
          stop at higher speeds you will apply more downward pressure to
          the back skate (but your weight is still on the front skate).

          If you have a World Wide Web (WWW) browser, Check out Scott's
          picture tutorial on T-stops.

          NOTE: One particular phenomenon to avoid in the T-stop, or any
          wheel-dragging stop (such as the toe drag) is the "flats". If
          you T- stop or toe drag such that the wheels do not roll as
          your drag, you will end up with a flattened wheel which will
          not roll smoothly at all. In effect, ruining your wheel(s).

   * TOE DRAG:
          Similar to the T-stop except you drag only the toe wheel
          instead of all four or five wheels. Unlike the T-stop it's not
          critical to keep the skate perpendicular to your line of
          travel. In fact, you're free to drag the wheel anywhere in a
          180+ degree arc behind you. Also, your toe can be pointed into
          the ground at pretty much any angle. (If you have old wheels,
          the toe position is a good place to put them if you want to
          avoid shredding your good wheels.)

          The toe drag is better than the T-stop in that you wear down
          only one wheel, and more importantly, you are also allowed much
          better control over steering, since you can still stop
          effectively even if the drag wheel rolls too much. The toe drag
          can stop you even when at cruising speeds, although at
          significantly longer breaking distance than the brake-pad or
          the T-stop since you are dragging only one wheel.

   * BACKWARDS T-STOP:
          This is a T-stop when you're rolling backwards. There are two
          ways to perform this stop. The first way is to stop by dragging
          the outside edge of your skate (i.e., toe pointed outward). The
          harder way is to point your toe inward, much like a reverse New
          York stop (see New York stop).

  STEPPING STOPS



   These three stepping stops are essentially advanced low-speed stops
   ("advanced" since they require good independent control over each
   skate). They could also be called "pushing" stops, since most of the
   braking action is done by pushing a skate against your motion. Many
   advanced skaters will do this intuitively, but I will detail them here
   for completeness.

   * BACKWARD STEPPING STOP:
   This is like while wearing shoes, and someone pushes you from the
   front. One foot automatically steps back to keep you from falling
   backwards. On skates then, while rolling backwards, you simply put one
   skate behind you, 90 degrees to the other skate, and hold it there so
   that your body doesn't roll any further. This is basically a very low-
   speed power stop, and so without the sliding and scraping action of
   the wheels (see the Power Stop).

   The faster you are moving, the closer you are to doing a true power
   stop. This may be a good method to learn the power stop, gradually
   building up speed.

   * FORWARD STEPPING STOP:
   A low-speed stop very similar to the backwards stepping stop except
   you're rolling forwards, of course. This time you plant your skate 90
   degrees out in front of or right next to the rolling skate. Your front
   heel will be pointing inwards (it's probably easier for most people to
   keep the toe pointed outward here). This is especially useful at
   curbs, like just before you accidentally roll into an intersection, in
   crowded indoor places, or if you just want to get a little closer to
   people you're talking with.

   This stop should halt you immediately. Once you plant your foot, your
   body should stop moving forward. You may find it easier if you bend
   slightly at the waist and knee to give your skate a better angle to
   grab.

   You can also use this stop in a sort of shuffling fashion: stop, roll
   a little, stop, roll a little, etc., until you get to precisely where
   you want to be.

   * REVERSE STOP (FORWARDS SNOW-PLOW):
   While rolling, point one skate (only) inward, lift and set it back
   down. Roll on it and push off slightly at the heel. Now lift the other
   skate, and do the same.

   Essentially you are skating backwards even though moving forwards.
   Keep doing it and you will eventually start skating backwards. This
   can be done even at high speeds.

   * BACKWARDS HEEL DRAG:
   This is for rolling backwards. Similar to the toe drag except you drag
   your heel wheel. If you find your drag skate rolling sideways, apply
   more pressure to your heel wheel.

   Now that you can do toe-drags, heel-drags and spinouts...

   * TOE-DRAG SPINOUTS:
   This is a one-footed spinout with an accompanying toe-drag on the
   other foot. The toe drag will be in the inside of the spinout. So for
   a right-foot toe-drag spinout, you will be carving a right turn. It
   takes a bit more balance and strength and will shred your toe wheel a
   lot. The more pressure on the toe, and the sharper/harder you carve
   your turn, the faster you stop.

   At maximum effectiveness, it can stop you very quickly. The skating
   foot will be nearly doing a power slide (see Power Stop) and the
   dragging foot will be doing a very hard toe-drag. Done correctly at
   low to medium speeds, it takes up at most a sidewalk's width. At
   downhill speeds, expect to take up most of a car lane.

   NOTE that hitting a crack or rock during this stop really bites since
   you've got most of your weight on one skating foot. Look for any
   debris or holes ahead of you and be prepared.

   * HEEL-DRAG SPINOUTS:
   For this spinout, just plant one of your heel wheels on the ground out
   in front of you and spin around it. The only tricky part is that the
   pivot heel wheel may roll a little, so keep some downward pressure on
   it. It probably helps to keep your pivot leg straight and slightly
   locked to help stabilize the pivot.

   A variation on heel-drag spinouts is to use your brake-pad as the
   pivot.

   This stop looks pretty neat when going backwards, although you should
   be careful to protect your knees if you have to abort. To perform this
   backwards, start a heel-drag stop (you're skating backwards), carve
   the skating foot behind and to the inside, and you should spin around
   the heel wheel/brake.

   * CURB RAMMING:
   You approach the curb at around 90 degrees (i.e., straight on) and
   lift your toes enough to clear the curb. This should jam your wheels
   and runners into the curb. You should be prepared to compensate for
   the sudden change in your motion.

   An alternative curb ramming stop is to do a spinout near the curb and
   ram the back of your skate into the curb.

   Both these techniques cause quite a bit of shock to your skates
   (especially at high speeds) so if you really love your skates you may
   not want to do this stop too often 8-)

   * POWER STOP/POWER SLIDE:
   This is one of the most effective stops, and also one of the hardest.
   To do this stop, you should be able to skate forwards and backwards
   well, and also be able to flip front-to-back quickly.

   There appear different approaches to learning the power stop. The end
   result should be the same, or nearly so, but both are detailed below.
   It is left to the reader to decide which one is easier to follow.

   One way:

   You can piece the power stop together by combining two things:
    1. flip front to backward.
    2. place one foot behind you and push the entire row of wheels at a
       very sharp angle into the ground.



   You can practice this by skating backwards, gliding, and then with
   nearly all your weight on one foot, bring the other foot behind you,
   perpendicular to your direction of travel (see the Backward Stepping
   stop).

   You should start out doing this while traveling slowly. Your wheels
   should scrape a little. If they catch, you need to hold your braking
   skate at a sharper angle. Once you get this down, you can practice
   flipping front-to-back, coast a little, and then stop. Eventually, the
   combination becomes one smooth move: just get the braking leg extended
   as soon as you flip.

   You can use any flip (mohawk, 3-turn, toe-pivot, etc.) for this stop.
   This stop is good for hockey, and a good stop when going backwards
   (especially at higher speeds). A power-stop using a jump turn is
   called a chop stop (see following section).

   The other way:

   The second method involves one continuous motion instead of two: Skate
   forward on an outside edge, while extending the free leg to the side.
   All weight is on the skating leg. The free leg is dragged along the
   ground. Now sharpen the turn on the outside edge of the skating leg
   (with its knee greatly bent), and swing the free leg in front. This
   continuous transition causes the skating leg to turn, so it's now
   skating in reverse.

   The key is to have all the weight on the skating leg. If you place any
   weight on the free leg, you will go into a spin and lose control.

   Some prefer this method because you do not need to go into a complete
   power slide to stop. At any point in the continuous motion, you can
   abort if something is going wrong. Only at higher speeds is it
   necessary to completely turn the skating foot. There is less risk of
   catching the free leg on an uneven surface because it is already
   extended and dragging before you swing around.

   If you have a WWW browser, check out Scott's power-sliding picture
   tutorial.

   * CHOP-STOP:
   For skating forward or backward at low to moderate speeds. This is
   much like the hockey stops done on ice except, since you can't shave
   asphalt, you need to jump and turn both skates and hips perpendicular
   to the direction of travel. Land with the skates at an angle (like in
   the power stop) and push your wheels against the ground. To maintain
   balance you can keep one skate mainly beneath you, while the other
   goes out forward to stop you.

   Most of the shredding will be done on the lead skate, where the inside
   of your lead leg should make a sharp angle against the ground.

   Basically what this is, is a power stop using a jump turn.

   The jump isn't so much for air time as for lifting your skates off the
   ground so you can reposition them sideways. The lower the jump you can
   get away with, the less off balance you should be when you land.
   However, if you don't jump high enough you may not be able to place
   your lead skate at a sufficient angle. Caution should be used even
   more so in this stop than in others.

   The particulars of the jump aren't crucial. You can lead with one foot
   followed by the other, and land in that order; or jump and land with
   both feet at once. Pick whatever style you're most comfortable with.

   * NEW YORK STOP:
   Harder than even the power stop, the New York stop is mainly a power
   stop but you don't turn your gliding foot! It doesn't appear that just
   anyone can perform this stop, since it seems to require quite a bit of
   knee flexibility. L = the track left by the left skate, R = ditto by
   the right skate

  ------ direction of travel --- >

  L----------------------   |
This stop requires your knee to be twisted inward (not a natural
position, by far), so if you can't do it, I wouldn't say it's a big loss
since it seems to have above average potential to cause injury if
done wrong.




* "WILE E. COYOTE" STOP:

This stop requires brakes on both skates and is very reminiscent of
cartoon charaters, Wile E. Coyote in particular 8-), when they stop
on their heels after going very, very, VERY fast (meep meep! 8-).





* COMBINATION/SEQUENCE STOPS:


  Once you've got some stops perfected, the next thing you might want to
  try is a sequence or combination of several stops.  These are
  definitely more fun and a bit more showy.  These are some of the
  random combination stops that I do.  You can easily make up your own.
  (Sequences are denoted with "->" and combos with "+")



   S-stop
          Crossover stop -> turn opposite direction -> toe-drag spinout.
          So for example, you can crossover stop to the left, ride your
          left skate and do a toe drag (right toe pivot) while turning to
          the right to complete the S-pattern.

   Double crossover stop
          crossover stop -> inverted crossover stop (or vice versa). This
          also traces out an S-pattern.

   Braking T-stop
          T-stop with non-brake foot + brake with brake-pad

   Braking toe-drag
          Brake with brake-pad + toe-drag on other skate The braking
          toe-drag and the braking T-stop are the two of the most
          effective ways to stop that I know of when cruising.

   Braking spread-eagle
          Spread-eagle (follow w/ spinout optional) with braking skate in
          front + braking with brake-pad

   Braking glide stop
          glide -> reverse feet positions -> brake-pad The effect is that
          of shuffling your feet quickly and stopping. (Glide: a heel-toe
          glide, one skate out, and one skate back; use only the back toe
          and front heel wheels. The back skate should be the one with
          the brake since the assembly gets in the way on the front
          skate)







  __________________________________________________________________________


Related Topics

FALLING:



Falling should be one of your last resort techniques, but everyone
falls some time, so it's a good and safe thing to know.  Falling can
be practiced at low speeds to get used the idea that indeed, you can
plop on your guards and pads, and come away safe as houses.

    1. One of the less graceful and more painful ways to stop is to
       wipeout into a face plant or another nasty, bloody occurrence. I
       daresay no one does this "stop" voluntarily. These stops work
       vicariously: If you see someone else do it...you're likely to stop
       or slow down too 8-)

    2. At low speeds, a better (and less painful) falling-stop is to
       collapse your body in a way so that the primary scraping areas are
       the knee pads and your wrist guards/gloves. Bend your knees, fall
       on your knee pads and follow by falling on your wrist guards. Keep
       your wrists loose since there is still some risk of injury. See
       the collision section below.


   If you tend to fall backwards, your rear-end will probably be your
   biggest cushion (just how big, depends on you 8-).  You should try
   to spread out the shock to your arms and over as much body area
   as possible (in general)...the less directly on your wrists and
       elbows,
   probably the better.  NOTE however, that your tailbone is, after all,
   located in your duff and a hard fall at too sharp an angle will either
   bruise or fracture/break the tailbone.




At high speeds, when you desperately need to stop, an outright
collapse on your protection gear may not be enough.  High speed
falls are best when you take the brunt of the force with the entire
body, save for the head (besides, you're wearing your helmet,
right?)




Rolling with the fall is a key to reducing the force of impact.  So if
you happen to be careening down a hill, if possible, turn sideways
to your direction of travel and fall uphill (to keep you from
tumbling further down the hill).  When you hit, keep your body
loose, with hands up near your face or over your head.  With luck,
and no other dangers eminent (such as approaching 18-wheelers or
rolling off a cliff), you should be able to stand up, thank your
favorite deity, wipe yourself off, and go take a lesson in skating
safety and control.




COLLISIONS WITH STATIONARY OBJECTS:  Hopefully you will never ever have to
use a collision as a means to stop, but if you ever do, keep your limbs bent
and your body relaxed.  Act like a big shock-absorber and cushion your contact
with bending of the arms and legs.  Locked limbs will only increase the shock
going into your joints causing likely ligament/tendon tears or other damage.






  BOTTOM LINE

  PRACTICALLY SPEAKING, ALL THE STOPS THAT REQUIRE DRAGGING THE WHEELS
  WILL PUT A BIGGER DENT IN YOUR WALLET SINCE WHEELS COST A BUNDLE.  IF
  YOU DON'T USE YOUR BRAKE-PAD, HARDER WHEELS MAY SLOW DOWN THE
  WEAR ON YOUR WHEELS.





[ This file is Copyright 1994 by Anthony D. Chen.  It may be freely
  redistributed in its entirety provided that this copyright notice
  is not removed.



  License is hereby granted to republish on electronic or other media
  for which no fees are charged (except for the media used), so long
  as the text of this copyright notice and license are attached intact
  to any and all republished portion or portions.



  It may not be sold for profit or incorporated in commercial documents
  without the written permission of the copyright holder.



  Permission is expressly granted for this document to be made available
  for file transfer from installations offering unrestricted anonymous
  file transfer on the Internet.



  This file is provided as is without any express or implied warranty.
  Nothing in this file represents the views of Florida State University.]






  __________________________________________________________________________





-Tony Chen ([e-mail])



*This image is Copyrighted - 1994 by Anthony D. Chen.  Permission
 is granted to use this logo in World Wide Web HTML files so long as
 this copyright notice is included as either an HTML comment alongside
 the invokation (IMG SRC or HREF or otherwise) of the logo, or in the
 visible text.



 The image may not be sold for profit, nor incorporated in commercial
 documents or merchandise without prior written permission of the
 copyright holder.




  __________________________________________________________________________


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Posted-By: auto-faq 3.1.1.2
Archive-name: rec-skate-faq/part2


   Rec.skate Frequently Asked Questions: Part 2
     _________________________________________________________________

   Wheels and Bearings *

  TABLE OF CONTENTS
     * Inline Wheels
     * The Bearing Maintenance File


     _________________________________________________________________



Inline Wheels

   (written May 17, 1992)
   (last changed Nov 12, 1994)

  TECHNICAL INFO

   Inline wheels are made of polyurethane. Although wheels are classified
   on three criteria: diameter, durometer (hardness), and rebound, you
   will usually see only the diameter and durometer marked on the wheels
   (e.g.,76mm 78A, or 70mm 82A, etc.).

  DIAMETER

   The diameter of the wheel means simply how tall the wheel is. The
   usual diameters are 80mm, 77mm, 76mm, 72.5mm, 72mm, and 70mm. More
   recently, 82mm wheels have been introduced. Also new are short stunt
   wheels, 52mm in diameter, with a high durometer to allow for rail
   slides and other tricks.

   Generally, racing skates will fit up to 82mm wheels, high-end skates
   up to 77mm, and the rest of the models up to 72.5mm. Although these
   are the designed ranges, skates can take slightly taller wheels than
   what they're supposed to. For instance, the Bauer XF/3's, with the
   front and heel wheel spacers moved in (for a shortened wheelbase), can
   use 76mm wheels for all four positions. Extension modification (i.e.,
   scraping down) of skates are need for wheels much larger than the
   intended size.

   Although still subject to some technical debate, in general, taller
   wheels will let you go faster (i.e., 76mm are faster than 70mm) but
   there is a point where taller wheels will only make you go slower with
   added weight (harder to start rolling) and less manueverability.

   Shorter wheels are cheaper, but in general don't last as long since
   they have less material to wear down overall.


   70mm               72mm               76mm               80mm
   Average speed____________________________________________Fast
   Quick Turns______________________________________Slower Turns

  DUROMETER (HARDNESS)

   Durometer is a relative hardness measure frequently used for rubber
   and plastic products. There are several scales, with the "A" scale
   (hence the 78A, etc.) used for wheels. The number is the rating from
   0-100, with 0 being no resistance and 100 being very hard plastic.

   Inline wheels generally run from 74A to 93A, with 78A, 82A, and 85A
   being the most common. For outdoors, the softer the wheel, the better
   the shock absorption on bumps, cracks, pebbles and other vibrations.
   The trade-off is that softer wheels last a shorter time. Harder
   wheels, since they have less drag, are preferred on indoor surfaces
   which are usually very smooth.

   Hockey players may prefer harder wheels because it allows them to
   slide somewhat. Also, some skaters vary their wheel durometer
   depending on the temperature outside. Cold weather will mean the
   ground is harder so soft wheels are more suitable. In really warm
   weather the road might start literally melting, in which case a high
   durometer setup would be more preferrable.


   74A               78A               82A               85A
   Average Wear_________________________________Longest Wear
   High Grip____________________________________Average Grip
   High Rebound______________________________Average Rebound
   Low Body Weight__________________________High Body Weight
   Smooth Ride_____________________________________Hard Ride

  REBOUND

   This is how much the wheel will return the energy when your wheels are
   compressed. So a higher rebound, will provide more response on each
   stroke. There doesn't seem to be a rebound scale (is there?) as there
   is for durometer.

  PROFILE

   The profile of a wheel is defined by the cross-section of the wheel,
   and it affects how much of the wheel is in contact with the ground.
   This is a wheel's "footprint." The larger the footprint, the greater
   the traction and stability. Many made-for-hockey wheels tend to have a
   wide footprint for those sharp turns. Racing wheels on the other hand,
   tend to be more narrow and thinner.

   Wide/fat              Normal profile           Narrow (race)
   Best Cornering___________________________________Less Stable
   Slow____________________________________________________Fast

  HUBS

   The hubs are very important to the overall performance of the wheel.
   The hubs are essentially two parts: the bearing core (the part that
   holds the bearing) and the spokes (the part that connects to the wheel
   material. Not all wheels are spoked, but most good third-party wheels
   have them for cooling and weight reduction.

   Note that, the larger the hub and core, the lighter the wheel, but
   also the less wheel material that can be put on the wheel. You're
   trading durablity for weight in essence.

   If the bearing core is slightly too large (as it often is for shoddy
   wheels), it will not hold the bearings tightly enough. This can allow
   the wheel to become "cocked" so that it rubs against the frame. Only
   one wheel needs to be out of alignment to mess things up.

   Misalignment is a serious problem, not only because it causes drag,
   but because it heats up the wheel. This will soon cause it to seperate
   from the hub and expand, and eventually destroy the wheel.

   I have noticed this on several sets of Kryptonics Turbo-cores. The
   first sign is that the wheels creak as you switch your weight on the
   skate. If you remove the wheel from the frame, you can see an arc
   clear of dirt and dust where the wheel was rubbing.

   If you notice this, put your hands on your wheels after a long fast
   skate and see if any of them are much warmer than the others. If so,
   they are probably rubbing.

   This can happen a lot easier on frames like the Mogema and the
   Darkstar that have very close tolerences and the side of the frame is
   close to the side of the wheel. I'm not sure if is as big as a problem
   (or a problem at all) for recreational skates like the Aeroblade. The
   creaking is bothersome in any event.


   Closed Core               Tri Spoke Core               Racing Core
   High Wheel Weight_________________________________Low Wheel Weight
   Longest Wear__________________________________________Average Wear

  AXLE KITS

   Another important aspect of your wheels is the axles. There are
   several axle replacement/upgrade kits (such as the Hyper Hop-up Kit
   and the Blading Edge Kit) designed to let your wheels roll much faster
   than your stock axles will allow. These kits are usually made of
   aluminium or steel. What they consist of is two axle bolts per wheel,
   each screwing into the threaded spacer in the wheel (the part that is
   sandwiched between the bearings). This prevents overtightening, which
   is common with regular axle systems, and will allow your
   wheels/bearings to spin freely. When putting your wheels back, make
   sure the wheels are just snug enough so they don't move around.
   Anything more just increases the friction on your bearings.

  MAINTENANCE

   Wheels of any durometer will wear out, given enough mileage. There's
   only so much polyurethane on your wheels, while there's thousands of
   miles of asphalt out there. Much less wearage occurs for indoor
   skating, however.

   In general, your wheels are due for maintenance when your skates are
   much slower and not rolling as smoothly as when new. The inside edges
   will wear more quickly, which you will eventually notice:

   [IMAGE]

   For you folks without the benefit of a graphics-ready computer:

               |    |                         |    |
       inside  |    |  outside       inside   \    |   outside
        edge   |    |    edge         edge     \   |     edge
               \____/                           \__/

              new wheel                       worn wheel


   There are two things you can do to get the most from your wheels:
   rotate and flip. Rotating your wheels means to switch the positions of
   the wheels. Different positions (like the heel or toe wheels) receive
   varying amounts of wear. By rotating the wheels, you can even out the
   wear on each wheel.

   Flipping your wheels means to turn each wheel so that the worn edge
   now faces the outside. This lets you wear down the other edge of the
   wheels.

   There are several patterns for wheel rotation. The one you use isn't
   crucial, since there's no "magic" rotation formula that works for all
   situations. The main point is to maintain an even wear on your wheels.
   Often times you may find yourself swapping wheels at random until you
   get a good wearage distribution on your skates.

   Some common rotation patterns:

   The front wheel is "1" and the back wheel is either "4" or "5".


For 3-wheel skates:  3->2, 2->1, 1->3

For 4-wheel skates:  42, 31     OR   4->3 3->2 2->1 1->4

For 5-wheel skates:  5->3, 4->2, 3->1, 2->5, 1->4
                        OR   5->3, 4->5, 3->2, 2->4

   Whiled you're rotating and flipping your wheels, you might as well
   wipe off your skates, rails, wheels and bearings with a damp cloth.
   Some people wipe down their skates everytime they go out, even if they
   don't do any rotation, but I recommend you do it at least everytime
   you rotate your wheels. This keeps the amount of dirt on your skates
   and wheels to a minimum, which helps keeps grit out of your bearings.

  ROCKERING YOUR SKATES

   Having skates non-rockered means the axles and wheels are all at the
   same height. This is the way the skates come when you buy then
   (usually). What many skates allow you to do is to change the height of
   some or all of the axles, to provide a different "blade" to skate on.
   Rockered skates then, have the middle two wheels lower relative to the
   front and heel wheels. This is accomplished by having oval spacers
   with an offset axle-hole; each spacer can have an up or down position.

   Racing skates are also adjustable, but only in the horizontal
   direction, allowing for a longer or shorter wheelbase.

   Although subject to some disagreement, many skaters find rockering
   provides much more maneuverability due to the curved "blade" of the
   wheels. Whether you rocker or not is really up to you. Many hockey
   players prefer to have their skates rockered for sharper turns on the
   court, while racers keep their blades flat for more stability at high
   speeds (rockers at high speed will produce speed wobble). Artisitic
   skaters may also prefer rockered, while extreme skaters may opt to
   keep them flat.

   Depending on your skates, there are various rockering configurations
   possible. If your skates can adjust the height of only the middle two
   wheels, you can have your skates flat or rockered:


Flat : ==frame==

        1 2 3 4


Rockered: ==frame==
           1     4
             2 3

If your skates can adjust the height of all four wheels then you have
the positions of


short even rocker: ==frame==    (wheels closer to boot, for more
control)
                    1      4
                      2  3

tall even rocker:  ==frame==    (taller, for sharper turns)

                    1       4
                      2  3

front-lift rocker: ==frame==    (a little more stable than regular
rocker)
                   1
                      2  3  4

front-lift,      : ==frame==    (tilts skates forward)
rear-down, rocker  1
                      2  3
                            4

   Wheels generally run from $4.25 to $8.00, depending on the quality and
   size of the wheel. Some inline wheel manufacturers: Kryptonics, Hyper,
   Labeda, FR, UFO, Wear and Tear, Cyko, Ultimate, Labeda, Cozmo, Grizzly
   Gear, Kuzak, Rolleredge, Brakerwheel. .


     _________________________________________________________________



The Bearing Maintenance File

   (written May 2, 1992)
   (last changed Jan 6, 1995)
   Compiled and edited by Tony Chen

  CONTENTS:
     * General Info
     * Sealed or Shielded?
     * Bearing ratings
     * How to maintain your bearings
          + 1st method : If you don't mind taking off the seals.
          + 2nd method : If you don't want to pry off the seals.



  GENERAL INFO

   Inline skates all use 608 bearings. The "608" means that the bearings
   are from the 600 series, with a 8mm inner diameter (the width of the
   hole, i.e., internal bore). The "6" appears to be for the 6mm
   difference between the inner and outer radii (from the outside edge to
   the edge of the hole).

   608 bearings are also the standard size for skateboard bearings. Quad
   skates use either type 608 (8mm internal bore) or type 627 (7mm
   internal bore). The 608's for quads are the outdoor bearings. If your
   bearings have letters following the "608" (like "S", "Z", or even "ZZ"
   or "SS") it is the manufacturer's way of denoting sealed or perhaps
   double shielded bearings. An "RS" label means shielded but that the
   shields are removeable (i.e., serviceable bearings). To make sure what
   they mean you should probably check with the manufacturer, since it
   can vary from company to company.

   A little cross-reference on part numbers for bearings, the 7MM ones
   are for quality indoor skates, the 8MM ones are used for in-lines,
   other indoor skates and skateboards.


Double Shielded:
        NTN     Fafnir  MRC     ND      SKF     HCH     YW
7MM     627-ZZ  37KDD   37FF    77037   R7-2Z   627Z    60027
8MM     608-ZZ  38KDD   38FF    77038   R8-2Z

Double Sealed (neoprene rubber):
        NTN     Fafnir  MRC     ND      SKF
7MM     627-LL  37PP    37ZZ    99037   R7-2RS
8MM     608-LL  38PP    38ZZ    99038   R8-2RS

   Single shielded/sealed bearings usually delete one of the doubled
   prefix/suffix characters. (Thanks go to George for the above chart).

   Bearings for in-lines generally come grease filled. Some bearings like
   GMNs are sold either greased or oiled (but usually greased).

   Some bearing manufacturers are: NMB (very common as a stock ABEC-1
   bearing in production skates), Powell Swiss "Bones", GMNs, Fafnirs,
   Black-Hole, Twincam, M&A Smith Stealth, (Super) Sonic, Terminator,
   Hyper (Boss & RPM), FKD, NHBB, GMBH, Yak, DF, Grizzly, and many
   others.

  SEALED OR SHIELDED?

   There are basically two types of bearings: shielded vs sealed. Very
   likely you will have shielded bearings, which all stock skates come
   with (as far as I know). Shields make it hard for dirt and grime to
   get in, but they certainly aren't dust or watertight. For superior
   protection against the elemnts, you need sealed bearings.

   There are three kinds of shielded bearings: 1) two shields (metal), 2)
   one metal shield & one pop-out cap for maintanence, 3) two pop-out
   caps. If you have types 2 or 3, you'll have an easier time re-lubing
   your bearings (see below)

   Sealed bearings have a teflon or rubber lip seal that actually touches
   the race and come packed with a fairly heavy grease. These are quite
   impervious to dust or water. Rollerblade sells sealed bearings under
   the name Max Trainers. You may find other brands as well. The
   advantage is that they should last a long time without any maintenance
   at all. The trade-off is that these bearings generally cost more and
   you also encounter a much higher rolling resistance. Slower bearings
   are not necessarily bad, since many people like the added resistance
   for a better workout.



  BEARING RATINGS

   Bearings are rated on the ABEC (the Annular Bearing Engineering
   Council) scale. There are many brands of bearings out on the market
   now, although you should know that some are just bearings from the
   same factory, just labeled differently. Some brands are NMB, Powell
   Swiss (commonly called Bones bearings), GMN, Fafnirs, Black-Hole,
   YAKs, Twin-cam, M&A Smith Stealth, (Super) Sonic, Terminator, Hyper
   (Boss & RPM), FKD, NHBB, GMBH, DF, Grizzly.

   The higher the ABEC number, the greater the manufactured bearing
   precision. So ABEC-5 is the most well-machined, followed by ABEC-3,
   and ABEC-1. (Not sure if even numbered ratings are even used). You may
   still find cheaper skates with bearings not even rated on the ABEC
   scale (primarily on "toy" in-lines and real low-end/kids skates).
   These will often be labeled as semi-precision bearings.

   The usual reasons for using the higher AEBC rated bearings are in
   machines needings to meet particular mechanical tolerance or vibration
   levels, or to operate at a high speed, but *not* for minimum rolling
   resistance. The speed issue is a bit indirect, but basically at the
   point where the balls stop rolling nicely between the inner and outer
   races and skid or bounce.

   Buying bearings rated any higher than ABEC-5 will probably not do any
   good since they aren't be meant for use in in-lines. Also, the higher
   precision will deteriorate down to ABEC-3 or 1 due to contaminating
   dust and dirt anyway. If it's speed you want, cutting down
   wind-resistance and improving your technique is the better way.

   Really precise bearings are only used in high speed (read: rotational)
   applications, as in machinery. The next higher grade up from in-line
   bearings are in machines which are rotating at speeds of at least
   10,000 rpm which is around 80+ mph. You probably won't want to go that
   fast on your skates 8-) At 50,000 rpm you would be traveling 400+ mph.
   So which happens first? the wheels melting, or the skin ripping off
   the skater? Gives new meaning to shredding 8-)



  WHEN TO CLEAN AND RE-LUBRICATE YOUR BEARINGS

   Exposure to dirt and water are the main reason that your bearings
   slow down. Bad bearings will be ones which don't let your wheels spin
   for a respectable amount of time (the definition of "respectable"
   depends on on your type of bearings). If you hear or feel the
   vibrations of metal rubbing on metal, chances are your bearings are in
   need of some maintenance.

   If some of the balls or bearing surfaces have become roughened,
   there's basically nothing you can do. They won't get any better, but
   they may last a long time anyway. You can always replace your bearings
   a few at a time.

   Take care of your bearings by cleaning and preping them as needed.
   Assuming normal usage, they should last through several sets of
   wheels, depending on how much skating you do.

  REPLACING YOUR BEARINGS

   You probably want to replace some of your bearings if (1) any of them
   them have somehow stopped spinning well, despite all the cleaning you
   do or (2) you want to change to different types of bearings (racing or
   sealed or whatever).

  HOW TO TAKE CARE OF YOUR BEARINGS

    1st Method: Taking the shields off
    1. Remove your wheels from the skates, and push the bearings out with
       a spare bushing (the plastic/metal part that goes between the
       bearings) or one of the several types of bearing tools available
       on the market.

    2. Now there's three types of situations you'll be in:
          + If you have shielded bearings with pop-out caps (Powell Swiss
            or Black Hole brands), simply pry/pop out the plastic cap on
            each bearing.
          + If you have other serviceable bearings like Twin-cams or YAKs
            you need to pop out the snap rings before you take off the
            shields (use a small screwdriver to snap out the snap rings).
          + For non-serviceable bearings like NMBs, GMNs (Germans), or
            sealed bearings, FIRST make this decision: do you want to
            take the shields off?


       Some people tell you to never pry off a shield/seal, some say it's
       okay. It's really up to you. In general, if you think you will be
       doing a lot of maintainence on your bearings, you are much better
       off taking the shields off. Whatever you do, the new lubrication
       always helps.

     NOTE: if you have sealed bearings you might not want to pop the
     covers since you could ruin the seal integrity a little, which is
     what you're paying extra for in the first place. Still, I have some
     people say they put their bearings back together with no harm, so it
     is possible.


   If you decide no then skip down to the section marked 2nd Method.

       If you decide yes then carefully puncture or pry off the shield
       (or seal) on one side. Use a very small screwdriver, and pry along
       the edge of the shield until you can get under it and pop it off.
       If this is difficult, you can always push the screwdriver into the
       shield (or tap it through (lightly!) with a hammer or heavier
       tool). You don't need a whole lot of force since the shields
       aren't all that thick or hard.

       When removing the covers of entire sets of bearings at once, be
       careful to only take off one cover per bearing. Otherwise you'll
       be left with a shieldless/sealless bearing (which won't last long
       against outdoor conditions).

       Once you have the cover off, you should be able to see the ball
       bearings inside, held in place by a retainer. You won't need the
       old metal covers anymore. In Bones bearings the cap is ALSO the
       brace, so you won't see a brace. Bones users should obviously keep
       the plastic cap when reassembling their bearings.

       NOTE: You don't want to take the ball bearings out since they
       aren't meant to be removed and replaced.

    3. Soak the bearings in paint thinner, kerosene, Simple Green, or any
       other handy solvent. The choice of solvent isn't crucial so long
       as you can get all the dirt and old grease cleaned out. However,
       to be good citizens on this here green earth, I'd suggest using
       one of the biodegradeable cleaners.

       jHandy tip: if you're using Simple Green, use it in the
       concentrated form, and also heat it up. This will speed up your
       cleaning time significantly. Another very good environmentally
       sound cleaner is the citrus based desgreaser called Finish Line.
       It has a KB value of 110 vs mineral spirits (35) and xylene (95).

       Avoid low-flash point solvents like gasoline, xylene, lacquer
       thinner, etc. which are dangerously flammable. Also wear
       latex/chem lab gloves if possible. Solvents are no fun to ingest
       or absorb through your skin. An alternative is to use a pair of
       tongs or tweezers to handle your bearings.

       How long you soak depends on how dirty and dried out your bearings
       have gotten. Previously maintained bearings won't need to soak
       very long. Bearings that have gone dry and have lots of grit in
       them may need to soak overnight, or even several days.

       If necessary use a brush or swirl your bearings around in your
       container to make sure everything breaks loose. Small coffee cans,
       peanut jars, or even those little black film canisters, all make
       decent containers. Dave Woodall ([e-mail]) has
       his own way of swirling. He uses a battery operated drink mixer
       and spins his bearings to cleanliness. He says it works really
       fast, so if you like, try it out 8-)

       You don't really need large amounts of solvent. Just enough to
       immerse your bearings. You also don't need to refill with clean
       solvent with each bearing unless the solvent you were using has
       gotten really dirty. The essential thing is that the dirt and
       grease is broken up. Step 4 will remove most of the gunk.

       WD-40 is generally not recommended as a solvent since it leaves a
       sticky, dust attracting film on the bearings. Note, however, that
       some people swear by WD-40. It has become somewhat of a
       heavily-debated topic.

       Ultrasonic cleaners are ideal for cleaning bearings. If you have
       access to one, you can clean your bearings en mass and avoid
       getting your hands dirty. An interesting supplement is described
       below: Simple Green. Just soak the parts in pure Simple Green and
       rinse with water. Thoroughly dry everything off and lubricate
       immediately, since Simple Green can leave a water-attracting film
       This can make the oil-free metal start to rust almost instantly!
       Parts come out much cleaner and much faster than with other
       solvents. You should stay cleaner and there are no nasty fumes to
       inhale. Simple Green should be available in most grocery or
       hardware stores.

    4. Now rinse out your bearings with hot, soapy water to make sure you
       clear out all the solvent. You now have some clean bearings.

       Clean, unlubricated bearings appear to have the lowest amount of
       unloaded friction, but don't expect them to last very long if you
       skate on them. After a fairly short time, the surface of the balls
       will start to flake and roughen and they won't spin very well.

    5. Use a hair dryer or just air/sun dry to make sure that all traces
       of water are gone. Using a hair dryer or basking in the sun also
       preps the bearing nicely by heating the metal somewhat.

    6. Now lubricate with your favorite lubricant. Lubricant choice
       always seem to be somewhat preferential in my experience. Lots of
       people find one lube that works for them and they just stick with
       it. It's hard to try out multiple lubricants and get a thoroughly
       accurate comparison throughout all types of skating conditions. 1)
       people don't always have the extra money to do so, 2) to change
       lubes you need to clean and relube (unless you have an extra set
       of bearings) and 3) there's still no real good way to measure how
       well a lube helps speed up or slow down your skating. A no-load
       "finger-flick" spin test doesn't really cut it since it doesn't
       entirely translate into the equivalent rolling resistance with
       your weight on it.

       Ideally, you'd have an indoor incline and/or flat surface,
       multiple sets of identical bearings for each lube, and you'd see
       which one gave you the most glide. Of course, this still doesn't
       take into account how fast the lube dries or bleeds from the
       bearings, or how easily it collects or repels dust/grime/water,
       and on and on.

       In the end, it doesn't make a huge difference unless you're into
       serious racing. Your main choice will be choosing betwen oil,
       cream/grease, telfon based lubes, (bicycle) wax/paraffin, and
       whatever else is out there. Most people end up using grease or
       oil. Oiled bearings have slightly less resistance, but need to be
       maintained more often (as often as once a week). It is very
       helpful to have a little hypodermic style oiler with a long needle
       to let you put the oil right where you want it.

       Grease works well because after a while most of it gets shoved out
       of contact with the balls and only a little bit smears onto the
       workings. However, newly greased (or heavy oil) bearings, will
       take a while to expel any extra grease and move the rest out of
       the way.

       For oiling, light oil, like sewing machine oil, or 5W-20 motor oil
       is a good choice. Household oils (3-in-one, etc) may gum up after
       a while. Some people recommend that you use a 50-50 mixture of
       lighter fluid and baby oil to lubricate your bearings. This mix
       should result in not having to clean them out as often, only
       lubricate more often.

       In any case, most mail-order shops sell their own brand of
       lubricant, as do many of the bearing manufacturers (e.g., Bones
       and BlackHole).

       Let the bearings sit for an hour, and wipe them off.

    7. 7. Put one bearing back into the wheel, with the open face towards
       the inside of the wheel. Insert the bushing and then put on the
       second bearing (with the open face towards the inside again). It
       is pretty hard for contaminants to get into the bearings from the
       inside.

    2nd Method: Keeping the shields on

   First do Step 1 (from 1st Method).

   If your bearings are permanently sealed (or you don't want to remove
   the seals) you can still soak in solvent (see step 3) for several
   hours or as long as you feel necessary. Enough solvent should soak
   through to remove some of the grease.

   Then you can lubricate the seams and/or press some in with your
   fingers. Enough oil should seep through to lubricate your bearings
   (see step 6).


     _________________________________________________________________

   *This image is Copyrighted - 1994 by Anthony D. Chen. Permission is
   granted to use this logo in World Wide Web HTML files so long as this
   copyright notice is included as either an HTML comment alongside the
   invokation (IMG SRC or HREF or otherwise) of the logo, or in the
   visible text.

   The image may not be sold for profit, nor incorporated in commercial
   documents or merchandise without prior written permission of the
   copyright holder.


     _________________________________________________________________

   TOC #1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #6 #7 #8 #9 #10 #11 PICS
Posted-By: auto-faq 3.1.1.2
Archive-name: rec-skate-faq/part3


   Rec.skate Frequently Asked Questions: Part 3
     _________________________________________________________________

   Rollerhockey *

                    REC.SKATE FAQ - PART 3: (ROLLER)HOCKEY

   (last changed Feb 18, 1995)

Contents:

     * General hockey FAQ
     * Info on sticks


     _________________________________________________________________

   Original preface to the Hockey FAQ, by Thomas Darling:

   This file reflects the observations of our small group's
   trial-and-error approach to organizing and playing hockey on inline
   skates, as well as advice from other rec.skate and rec.sport.hockey
   readers. We've done a lot of experimenting with gear, play, etc. and
   it is hoped that our experiences will be helpful to others getting
   involved in this fun and fast-paced sport.

   Thomas no longer had time to maintain this portion fo the FAQ, so
   I've incorporated some (long-overdue) additions from my own experience
   with my local hockey club and from others who have sent e-mail to me.

   Feel free to send in any comments, ideas, or suggestions.

   -Tony Chen [e-mail]
     _________________________________________________________________

Topics:

     * Gear
          + Sticks
          + Pucks
          + Padding
          + Goalie gear
     * Skates
          + Which type to get
          + Rockering
          + Wheels
     * Techniques
     * Stick turns/stops
     * Goalie
     * Surfaces
     * Rules
     * Practice Techniques
          + Hockeyball
     * Credits

GEAR

  STICKS

   (See also, Nancy's article below, titled "Selection of Hockey Sticks")
   Many of our players use standard street hockey sticks, with wooden
   shafts and plastic blades. These seem to survive the surface with
   minimal wear. However, those more experienced players (former ice
   hockey players all) prefer wooden ice hockey sticks, with taped
   blades, for superior puck control. These obviously wear down a lot
   faster than on ice, being scraped across concrete and leant on for
   power turns. Once the blade is taped, a razor is used to trim off the
   bottom 1cm or so to prevent fraying.

   Perhaps the benefits of wooden ice hockey sticks are predominantly
   psychological, based on the familiarity factor. But to those of us who
   use them, they "feel" better and therefore give us better results.

   If you decide to use a plastic-bladed street hockey stick, you should
   make sure to get one long enough for you to use when on your skates;
   most street hockey sticks are designed to be used on foot. There are
   many schools of thought on determining stick length, which like
   anything else, eventually comes down to matters of personal preference
   and style of play. But as a rule of thumb for beginners, try to get a
   stick that comes up to somewhere between your chin and nose. You can
   always cut it later if you wish.

   Todd ([e-mail]) offers these additional
   suggestions:

   "I work closely with some friends [who] own a Hockey store out here in
   the San Jose/San Francisco area; we have used several different types
   of sticks on the street surfaces. One of the best sticks to use on any
   street surface is the KOHO 2200 Ultimate, with a poly-tech blade on
   the end of a wooden hockey stick. It does not wear thin as quick as a
   mylec stick... Easton makes an aluminum street hockey stick...it is a
   good stick, but not better than regular hockey aluminum versions...
   The last stick to try is the Bauer Street Hockey stick: all wood with
   a poly-tech blade on the end, just for street hockey use."

   "Mylec blades, you can go through 1-2 a month if playing 3-4 times a
   week. I've gone that route too."

   From Michael Quinn ([e-mail]):

   "For a stick, I used an old ice hockey stick with a plastic
   replacement blade. Incidentally, I was up in Boston last week and saw
   a neat looking rubber brake that screws onto the shaft of a hockey
   stick near the blade. I didn't get a chance to try one out though.
   They sell them at Sports Etc. on Massachusetts Avenue in Arlington."

   Comments from anyone who has tried this stick-mounted brake would be
   appreciated.

PUCKS

   Sun Hockey makes a nifty three-wheeled puck called the "Hot Puck." The
   puck is hard rubber, and the "wheels" are three teflon balls that
   protrude through the top and bottom.

   Advantages: It appears to be regulation size and weight, and it feels
   great against the stick. It's an extremely cool design.

   Disadvantage: It doesn't work. Even on the most ideal surface (we
   tried it on a tennis court-type deck), it bounces, flips, and ends up
   rolling on its edge more than on the "wheels." I really wish they'd
   come up with a better functioning design, because the feel and idea
   are sound.

   Since the Sun puck doesn't happen, we use Mylec street hockey balls.
   They come in three different colours, coded for different
   temperatures. The orange one works best so far; minimal bounce, but a
   bit light. Be aware that the temperature type of the puck is
   important; we've heard of a warm-weather ball that shattered when used
   in cold weather.

   Also be aware that there are cheaper balls out there, and some of them
   suuuuuuck. We've even encountered one that was unevenly weighted and
   textured. Not good. Since the Mylec balls are only a couple of
   dollars, there's no reason not to get the real thing.

   Nobody's completely happy with this compromise, but it's the best
   option we've seen so far for outside play.

   As for inside play, Marc ([e-mail]) adds:

   "When we play outside, we usually use an orange Mylec, but it bounces
   too much for inside play so there we use a Viceroy, which also weighs
   about twice as much. They are made in Canada, and I don't know where
   you might get them other than a good well stocked hockey shop. We all
   tend to use the Viceroy in tournaments."

   From: David Aronson (pak!LARGO![e-mail])

   Pucks: In the roller hockey league that I am in. We use a plastic
   Cosmo puck that is filled with a substance that is similar to little
   while beads with a kind of thick petroleum jelly. They work great
   indoors and outside. I have used them on wood, tennis courts, and
   somewhat smooth blacktop with good results. The advantage is the
   weight of the puck keeps it from getting up on edge.

   From: Tony Chen ([e-mail])

   Our club uses the Jofa speed pucks exclusively. We play on an indoor
   roller- rink, so the surface is very smooth, and design of the Jofa
   pucks makes it a very nice puck. Stay AWAY from the pucks with plastic
   "bearings" inside them. They don't work outside, they don't work
   inside. The Jofa pucks are spoked with the weight on the edge and have
   7 or 8 screw-in pegs on each face which lets it glide fairly fast.

   From: [e-mail] (Jeremiah "Phlegm" Rickert) Message-Id:

   Pucks: For indoor play, by far the best puck is the Jofa puck made for
   Roller Hockey International. It has "bumps" that are screwed into the
   edge of the disc that can be changed depending what surface you are
   on. It flies like an Ice-hockey puck, it slides like an ice-hockey
   puck, if feels like an ice-hockey puck. It resembles a wheel, it has
   "Spokes" in the middle that are made of light aluminum, and the disk
   is made our of hard rubber that doesn't bounce. It is ideal for roller
   hockey. It costs about $12 but it is worth it in every way.

   Oh, and I forgot to mention, that the becuase the majority of the
   weight of the Jofa puck is on the edge, it rarely rolls ever...even on
   asphalt, if you insert the pegs for asphalt, it slides just fine.

   I am on a college roller-hockey team, I have played for about 5 years,
   so I speak from experience.

   Goalie Equipment: If you are using a puck, using baseball catchers
   mitts work well only if you remove some of the padding. If you are
   using a ball, you almost have to use a real hockey-catch glove, or a
   baseball fielder's glove, the ball pops out of the catcher's mitt
   because it doesn't have enough weight to carry it into the pocket.

   Along the lines of pads. I prefer ice hockey pads. I am a goalie, I
   have tried everything. Ice hockey pads, are ideal for using any kind
   of puck. They are all right for using a ball, but you can't feel the
   ball all of the time, so sometimes you don't know if you made the save
   or not. If you only use a ball, the mylec or the cooper streets pads
   are fine, they are plastic and make a huge hollow thwuuuping sound
   when the ball hits them. Playing in skates is fine too. Leg Kicks are
   quicker, you can move from side to side quicker, you can move forwards
   and backwards, without taking a stride, it's then easier to cut down
   angles and move because you don't have to move your legs much.

PADDING

   Checking is a bit less frequent in the inline game, which is good,
   because the summer heat makes heavy padding out of the question.
   Hardshell knee pads are a necessity, because everyone occasionally
   collides with the boards or the ground. Elbow pads are also highly
   recommended.

   Those nifty wristguards are probably a good idea for skating and
   training, but for all practical purposes it is impossible to hold a
   hockey stick with them. This is OK, because you can use the stick to
   break your fall in many circumstances, and you can't build up huge
   speeds in a small rink anyway.

   Opinions vary on hand protection. Some players prefer ice hockey
   gloves. They provide superb protection against sticks, decent padding
   for when you get crunched, and enough finger coverage to make hand
   passes safe. On the other hand, they tend to be very hot. Many of us
   opt instead for weightlifting gloves, the fingerless mesh kind with
   leather palms. These allow your hands to stay cool, yet prevent the
   loss of skin when you're knocked sprawling. They allow good stick
   control. Just don't go grabbing the puck with 'em, lest your fingers
   be rolled over/chopped off.

   (Note: Weightlifting gloves are difficult to dramatically throw down.
   So if you get into a violent confrontation, you may incur a few
   bruises while trying frantically to peel them off. If you play this
   way, be careful.)

   Another option is to use a cheap pair of Nylon hockey gloves. They're
   still a bit warm, but considerably lighter than leather gloves and
   you're less apt to be concerned about beating them up.

   From: [e-mail] (Marc Foster)

   On a related note, I also got a chance that night to try out the new
   Mylec goalie leg pads. While they provide much better protection to
   the inside of your thigh (how many of you have donut-shapped bruises
   there???), I thought they were very bulky and hard to move around in.
   Dropping to your knees or lieing on your side - then getting back up,
   seemed very difficult. I think the reason may have to do with the hard
   corners of the pads, the protect, but prevent mobility.

   From: David Aronson Padding: I would highly suggest the following
   padding for any game, HELMET, cup, shin pads, gloves, and elbow pads.
   The most inportant is the helmet which should be a real hockey helmet.
   Make sure that the helmet has been approved for hockey,( some Jofa's
   have a sticker disclaiming them from any contact sport). I would
   suggest CCM or Cooper. Both are about $50 new, less used. A cup is
   very cheap, but very nice to have in games. A pair of shin pads will
   cost from $20 to $$$. Franklin makes a pair of pads that are a hard
   shell knee pad with a foam rubber shin extension for about $20(don't
   quote me on the price). Easton makes a pair of hard shells pads with
   seperate hard shells over foam on the knees and shins for about
   $35(The also have built-in straps). All over shin pads cost require
   seperate velcro straps securing them to your legs. If you are going to
   be skating outside make sure not to use leather pads. A pair of hockey
   gloves cost from $25 to $200. They protect your hands and wrists from
   sticks and the ground, I suggest a pair of cheap hockey gloves. As far
   as elbow pads any will do, I use a cheap pair of foam rubber pads.
   Wear a HELMET!!! You do not need to crack your head on the ground. For
   checking games you rry, we'll get to this section in the future)

GOALIE GEAR

   A good mask is essential, regardless of puck type. Either a cage-type
   ice hockey mask or an inexpensive Mylec mask will do. An ice hockey
   stick is highly recommended, since they tend to be larger than their
   street hockey counterparts. Any variety of blocker will suffice. If
   you're playing with a ball of some kind rather than a puck, we've
   found that using a baseball glove for a catcher will give good
   results.

   In regards to leg pads, the cheapest Mylec ones appear to work the
   best. Since they're made of hard plastic, a goalie can slide on his
   knees in them, which improves effectiveness.

   Marc ([e-mail]), a Texas hockey veteran,
   adds: "When I goalie I usually wear a cage helmet (since I wear
   glasses), elbow pads, a blocker on the right hand and a catcher's mitt
   in the left, a catcher's chest protector on my chest and belly (with
   my Dead Wings jersey over that), a cup and the Mylec leg pads, along
   with the skates. I usually wear a t-shirt under the chest pad, also.
   I've suited up like that twice a week all summer down here and have
   lost about 10 pounds. Most other goalies in the Metroplex use either a
   large softball mitt or a regular goalie's mitt, but I had the
   catcher's mitt to begin with and find that I am used to it and can't
   use a regular glove very well."

SKATES

  TYPE OF SKATE

   Which brand/model of skate largely depends on playing style and the
   ever- important ice-hockey familiarity factor. As an ice-hockey
   player, I use Bauer XS/5's with the brake removed. They're all laces,
   no buckles, and are nice and light. They've got good bearings (hence
   decent speed) and strong frames.

   The most popular skate among our skaters is the Rollerblade Zetra 303.
   It's a little heavy and clunky, but has an extremely durable boot,
   which is good if you like to plant yourself in front of the goalie and
   get your ankles whacked at a lot.

   I also might recommend the Gretzky Ultra Wings. They're all buckles
   and kind of heavy, but durable enough to stand up to hockey abuse.

   The bottom line, really, is that you can make do with what you've got.
   One of our best players uses el cheapo skates (Phantoms?), yet still
   manages to come up with the breakaways and finesse plays.

   From: Tony Chen ([e-mail])

   Speed and finesse seem quite removed from the quality of the skates.
   We have lots of okay players that have the nifty Bauer ZT skates, but
   our best player has on the old Lightning 608's, with wheels worn down
   to the hub.

   Essentially, if you do lots of other types of skating, you can always
   use them for hockey. I use my Aeroblades for hockey, and while they're
   not taking the pounding quite as well as other skates would, they're
   holding up okay (so far). Generally, I wouldn't recommend Aeros or any
   heavily vented skate for hockey. With the number of collisions and
   rammings and taking slap shots point-blank, you'd be better off with
   Lightning 608/TRSs or Bauer hockey skates.

  ROCKERING



    None of us rocker our frames. I know that every book in the world
   says that you should rocker them for hockey, but the difference in
   turning ability (especially at high speeds) is negligible. All that
   appeared to be seriously affected were speed, traction and stability,
   none for the better.

  WHEELS



   So far, we haven't experimented greatly with different wheels. I've
   used both hard and soft, and liked the hard ones better, since they
   last longer and feel better on grinding stops and turns. Rollerblade
   makes a "Hockey Wheel" with better perimeter width (to reflect the
   need for stopping/turning over straightaway speed), but since they're
   hubless and generally cheap-looking, nobody has picked any up yet. Any
   comments on these wheels would be welcome.

   We've heard that "Turbo Core" type wheels (with spokes instead of
   solid hubs) don't stand up to the stresses of hockey well. Those
   skaters I know who use such wheels have reported no problems, but the
   net.consensus on this is that "spoke" breakage does happen, so it
   bears repeating here.

   From: David Aronson (pak!LARGO![e-mail])

   Wheels:

   I use hyper super-lites which are 72.5mm and 78a, they are fast with
   good traction. I have used "Hockey-wheels" before and they seemed to
   slip out from under me, but I have friends who sware by them. Just
   make sure you have good bearing and axle-systems and the wheels won't
   make a huge difference. I use axle systems on my skates that are made
   from aircraft aluminum. You can't over-tighten the axles so all you do
   is crank them down and you're ready(purchased through in-line sports)
   $20.

   From: Tony Chen ([e-mail]) Opinion seem to vary a
   lot on which type of wheels to get. Some say the special hockey
   wheels, with wider cross-sections and lower profiles give lots of
   added stability. Most of rec.skaters say, heck with that, and use
   Superlites or Redlines for speed. In the end, you should choose
   something you're comfortable with. Don't go out and blow $50 on a set
   of wheels just for hockey, unless you really want to. Our best and
   fastest skaters use real crap wheels and only so-so skates. A whole
   lot of it is the technique, legs and feet, believe me 8-)

TECHNIQUES

  STICK TURNS/STOPS

   Many of us ice-hockey players are aggravated by the limited turning
   and stopping ability of inline skates. A typical drag stop (rear foot
   90 degrees against leading foot) works in most circumstances. But
   another good technique is the stick stop.

   In this stop, the skater begins a tight turn towards his stick side.
   For this example, we'll use a right-handed skater. Right foot forward,
   he makes a tight turn, putting his stick blade down (to the right) in
   the process. He leans against the stick, grinding his left foot
   outwards, until coming to a stop. With practice, one can even hang
   onto the puck while executing this stop.

   Sometimes, when going very fast, I find that I must crouch low to keep
   pressure on the outer foot -- often to such a degree that the boot,
   instead of the wheels, makes contact with the ground. This gets good
   results, but is not recommended for less durable boots.

   The same technique is used in the stick turn. The skater uses the same
   combination of tight turn and stick friction, but instead of using the
   stick as a mere brake, uses it as a pivot point to make a tighter turn
   and continue on in a new direction.

GOALIE TECHNIQUES

   The best bet for goalies, in many cases, is simply not to wear skates.
   A sneakered goalie has side-to-side mobility and backwards control
   that are difficult to match on skates of any kind. As long as the
   goalie doesn't leave the crease for extended periods (i.e. Ron Hextall
   lead-the-rush-up-ice maneuvres), this makes for fair and fun gameplay.
   As previously mentioned, hard plastic Mylec street hockey leg pads are
   recommended. A good goalie can fearlessly slide about in them, making
   for a more ice-like game.

SURFACES

   Generally speaking, you're stuck with whatever your area offers. For
   economical reasons, we've been playing on street-hockey decks, which
   have asphalt or cement surfaces and decent boards all around. One such
   surface is quite good; very smooth cement approaching tennis court
   quality. It's a decent drive for most of us, but worth it; we've
   played on a rougher surface and it's exhausting.

   There are also commercial venues available in our area. One huge
   indoor facility has a perfect surface, good nets, an electronic
   scoreboard, you name it. It's also $70/hour, but with enough people
   playing a real game, this can be cost-effective. I imagine similar
   facilities exist in most major metropolitan areas.

RULES

   Our goal is to be as ice hockey-like as possible. In the reduced size
   of most street-hockey decks, 4 skaters per side is probably the
   realistic maximum. And we'd like to someday have enough players for
   full 60-minute change-on-the-fly games, but for the time being it
   looks like three 10 minute periods with no line changes and frequent
   timeouts.

   When we can, we aspire to NHL rules. With 10-minute periods,
   half-length penalties are probably best (1 minute or 2.5 minutes).
   Enforcement of offsides and icing are a matter of taste; they make for
   less fluid gameplay and are a distraction for single refs without
   benefit of linesmen. I'd be interested in hearing how other players
   deal with this.

   Best of luck to anyone getting started in the game; may you find all
   the players you need and a prime surface. If you live in the
   Philadelphia/ South Jersey area, we invite you to join us! Interested
   parties can Email me directly, or reach me on the Cellar BBS (the
   number is in my .sig). We play Sundays, are still organizing for fall,
   and would welcome any new participants.

   From: Tony Chen ([e-mail]) We play in an indoor
   rink, so we have blue lines and the creases marked permanently, plus
   we have regulation goals and a good-sized rink (sorry, don't have
   exact measurements). We usually play 4-on-4, and go to 5-on-5 when
   there's a larger than normal group that shows up. We play with
   offsides, but no icing.

   We self-referee, with a little help from the benches 8-) We don't play
   with time limits, but we do line changes en masse (Usually we have at
   least 2-3 lines for offense, and 2-3 lines on defense) so everyone
   gets a fair shake.

PRACTICE TECHNIQUES

   Can't round up 8+ skaters and 2 goalies for a game? Here's a basic
   game you can play with as few as 4 people that's fun and great
   practice for basic hockey skills.

   "Hockeyball"


'  Gear: Inline skates, sticks, pads, ball, chalk.
'
'  Play Surface:  Ideally, you'll want an area with clearly-defined edges.
'  A low-traffic street, school driveway, or the like is ideal, since
'  passes can be bounced off the curbs.  With chalk, mark off end lines
'  150-200' apart (depending on skaters' respiratory health and number
'  of players), as well as a faceoff mark at centre ice:
'
'  curb -> ========================================================
'              |                                               |
'  end line -> |                       x                       |
'              |                                               |
'          ========================================================
'
'  The rules are simple.  To score a goal, a skater must cross his
'  opponent's goal line WHILE IN CONTROL OF THE PUCK/BALL.  If the
'  ball goes over a team's end line with no one in control, that team
'  takes the ball back into play from behind the line (the puck must
'  then precede them over the line coming back into play).
'
'  If the ball goes out of play, a faceoff will take place at the point
'  of exit.
'
'  After every score, begin again with a centre-ice faceoff.
'
'  Play to a predetermined point (first to 7, for instance).  No time
'  limits.

   Besides being a total blast (the Canadian equivalent of urban
   half-court pickup basketball), this game is good practice for a
   variety of skills including skating, passing, puck control, checking
   (the way we play it, anyway -- this is optional) and basic strategy
   (crossing over and the like).

   If you want a different challenge, or to handicap a side, try playing
   against a team with one or more players on sneakers instead of skates.
   You'll be able to outrun them in long hauls, but they can kill you
   with sudden stops/direction changes/accelleration/etc.

CREDITS

   Thanks for the following for their field testing and other assistance
   in the preparation of this file:

   Anton "Slapshot" Shepps (LW), Dan Reed (LW), Chris "Nate" Collins (G),
   Earl Scheib (D, no relation), Rachel MacGregor (D), Steve "Doc" Roth
   (D), Rob "Franchise" Tedesco (RW), N.Y. State Assemblyman Allan K.
   Race (C, Democrat), Heather "Hanover" Pfister (LW), Robert Jennings
   (G), and "Pittsburgh" Bob Safier (C).


     _________________________________________________________________



From: [e-mail] (Famous Jonathan)
Subject: Hockey equipment
Date: 14 Sep 93 13:04:40 GMT

  Gloves:
     I have small hands, so what I use are a pair of the
largest junior size Cooper ice-hockey gloves. The palms tend
to wear through really quickly, but hand protection is good
and they are easy to slide on.
     Other people I know have also worn lacrosse gloves to
play. They don't usually cost as much as ice hockey gloves, but
for street play they provide good protection farther up the wrist
and arm.

  Stick:
     Those plastic Mylec replacement blades are trash. Don't
bother. I liked the Mylec street hockey stick with the black blade -
the stick was cheap and it worked well. I liked the shorter stick
for maneuverability and ball control, but it was tough to get a
good shot from it.
     Someone had posted against a Koho Street Revolution, but I've
been using one for a while. The shaft does flex, but the blade wears
well on cement and lasts well.

  Puck:
     Mylec ball seems to be the best, as everyone else here seems
to agree. So why does the IRHL use one of those crappy rolling pucks
that never seem to work?
     Another puck we used was a roll of black tape with a small core.
After a good break-in period, it slides well and has the fell of a
regular puck. But it is heavy and probably requires real pads -
especially for the goalie.
     I saw in the stores a new puck that had 6 knobs protruding from
a disc to be used for roller-hockey. I forget who makes it or what
it was called, but if anyone has used one, what did you think?


From: [e-mail] (Marc Foster)
Subject: FAQ Update:  Goalie gear
Date: 3 Sep 1993 16:45:54 GMT


In article  [e-mail] (Tony Chen)
writes:

>REC.SKATE FAQ - PART 3:  (ROLLER)HOCKEY (draft)

>______________
>Goalie Gear //  A good mask is essential, regardless of puck type.  Either
>___________//  a cage-type ice hockey mask or an inexpensive Mylec mask
>will do.  An ice hockey stick is highly recommended, since they tend to be
>larger than their street hockey counterparts.  Any variety of blocker will
>suffice.  If you're playing with a ball of some kind rather than a puck,
>we've found that using a baseball glove for a catcher will give good
>results.
>
>In regards to leg pads, the cheapest Mylec ones appear to work the best.
>Since they're made of hard plastic, a goalie can slide on his knees in
>them, which improves effectiveness.
>
>Marc [[e-mail]], a Texas hockey veteran, adds:
>"When I goalie I usually wear a cage helmet (since I wear glasses), elbow
>pads, a blocker on the right hand and a catcher's mitt in the left, a
>catcher's chest protector on my chest and belly (with my Dead Wings jersey
>over that), a cup and the Mylec leg pads, along with the skates.  I
>usually wear a t-shirt under the chest pad, also.  I've suited up like
>that twice a week all summer down here and have lost about 10 pounds.
>Most other goalies in the Metroplex use either a large softball mitt or a
>regular goalie's mitt, but I had the catcher's mitt to begin with and
>find that I am used to it and can't use a regular glove very well."

I thought I'd update my equipment list, as what I said a year ago is really
out of date (at least for me).  I picked up a sponsorship down in the Metroplex
and was able to splurge on the good stuff:

The new Mylec catalog has a new blocker and goal glove in it.  The blocker
(#570) is larger than the older Mylec model and can be bent up high along
the arm like real ice hockey blockers.  The glove (#580) is built like an
ice-hockey glove and is much larger than the "shortstop mitt with a wrist
protector" glove they've sold in the past.  After getting the glove broken
in, it snags balls just as well as pucks.

I nearly lost my teeth this summer wearing the Mylec cage mask (got kicked),
so I got a Jofa Goalie Combo helmet.  Jofa takes their regular helmet, puts
a larger cage on it, and adds a throat protector.  After getting popped a lot
(usually in warm-ups, when my teammates unload really hard shots on me), my
throat apprecitates this aquisition.

As for leg protection, I have found that adding a quality pair of ice hockey
pants to the Mylec leg pads does wonders for the inside thigh area.  I have
a pair of Cooper pants, thought CCM and others are just as good.  I also
dropped a size on those mylec leg pads, since the pants cover the upper front
thigh area now.  Doing this increased my mobility a lot.  I do wear some
knee pads _under_ the leg pads.  The Mylec pads tend to leave the inside knee
area bare when you freeze the ball in a butterfly drop (watch Patrick Roy),
and if you play long enough, a permanent... and painfull bruise develops.

As for the chest and arms, I went with a Cooper BP9 chest protector and SA55
arm pads.  However, I only wear the armpads indoors, since it's usually just
too hot to wear both pads playing outside (lost a lot more weight this summer).
Since my league up here at school is indoors, I'm padded to the max.

My stick is a Christian "Curtis Curve" goal stick.  The stick handle is
S-curved at the grip for better balance.  I also added a ton of weight at the
end of the handle so the center of gravity is right on your stick hand.
Works wonders.

And please, boys and girls, don't forget your cup (well, maybe not girls, I
never did ask Machelle Harris if she wears one).

>____________________
>Goalie Techniques //  The best bet for goalies, in many cases, is simply
>_________________//  not to wear skates.  A sneakered goalie has
>side-to-side mobility and backwards control that are difficult to match on
>skates of any kind.  As long as the goalie doesn't leave the crease for
>extended periods (i.e. Ron Hextall lead-the-rush-up-ice maneuvres), this
>makes for fair and fun gameplay.

Well, I have to wear skates, but I still come out of the crease a lot.  I
have found that most novice to intermediate ability players can't deke very
well, hang onto the ball, and make a quality shot.  So when I have a 1-on-1
or a shootout situation, I CHARGE the forward. It cuts down the shot angle,
and also intimidates the hell out of lesser players not usel, this ended up bei
ng a lot longer post than I anticipated.  The bottom
line is... if yer gonna be a goalie, ya gotta get the pads.  I saw a lot of
folks this summer playing more or less naked in the crease, and it just doesn't
work.  85 MPH+ slapshots aren't intimidating when you're fully loaded, and
all that gear really doesn't slow you down like you'd think.




     _________________________________________________________________

Choosing a Stick

   From: [e-mail] (Nancy Piltch)
   Subject: Selection of hockey sticks
   Date: 3 Dec 91 21:46:00 GMT
   Sometime in the past Phil asked if anyone could write a guide to
   selecting hockey sticks, which has apparently been met with resounding
   silence. I think I can help, at least for those just entering the
   sport. Bear in mind, though, that while I've played a good deal of
   intramural and pick-up hockey, I've never had any formal coaching, so
   I'm sure there are others more knowledgeable. This will be especially
   true of the subtle differences among sticks that will matter to expert
   players.

   Please feel free to correct my misstatements, clarify what is unclear,
   and add what I've left out.

   The main criteria in selection of hockey sticks are "handedness", lie,
   length, and curvature. All of these are largely a matter of personal
   preference.

   1. "Handedness": A hockey player will decide whether s/he prefers
   holding the stick to the left side or the right. There appears to be
   no strong correlation to the person's handedness. A new player should
   try it both ways, and find the one that feels most natural. Sticks are
   labeled either L or R, but since French-speaking Canada generates
   large numbers of hockey players, the stick may be labeled G (gauche)
   or D (droit). Some sticks carry both letters, i.e. L/G. A few sticks
   are neutral and can be used either way.

   2. Lie: This refers to the angle the stick makes with the blade. A
   higher lie is closer to upright than a lower lie. While there are lots
   of exceptions, a player who prefers to skate more upright will prefer
   a higher lie, and a player who prefers to skate more bent over will
   take a lower lie. Taller players also generally use higher lies.
   Again, a new player should test several different lies to see what
   feels comfortable. The most common lies are 5, 6, and 7. This is the
   rest of the labeling on a hockey stick: a 6R means a lie of 6 in a
   right handed stick. Exaggerating the drawings:


         .                 .
       .                  .
     .                   .
____                ____

 5                    7

   3. Length: I've been told that a stick should come up to about the
   player's chin while wearing skates, but I find this uncomfortable. I
   think it's more realistic to have it come to about the armpit or a
   little below; again, this is preference.

   4. Curvature: A more curved blade allows the puck to be flipped more
   effectively for better shooting, but at the price of poorer passing
   and receiving. A beginner should start with a gently curved stick. A
   neutral stick, which I referred to above in the section on handedness,
   has no curvature.

   The blade of a stick should be taped. This helps prolong the life of
   the blade and improves puck-handling capability. It's always black
   tape, never white. The conventional wisdom is that a goalie can't see
   the puck as well against a black blade, but my feeling is that a good
   goalie will see the puck. My personal opinion is that it is black
   because of tradition.

   The wear pattern on the tape can show whether a skater has selected
   the proper lie. If the wear is toward the heel/toe of the blade the
   skater should try a lower/higher lie.

   A lot of players also tape the top of the blade for better grip.

   Sticks also differ in weight; again this is personal preference.

   From: [e-mail]
   Subject: Sticks and Pucks (was Re: Selection of hockey sticks)
   Date: 4 Dec 91 18:17:48 GMT
   Some other stuff to augment the stick info:

   I often tape my sticks with white tape! I think the tape matter is
   more whether you use the friction tape (normally black) or the general
   cloth tape used for taping around socks, skate tops, and equipment,
   which is usually white, but comes in all colors. I prefer the smoother
   white tape to the friction tape on my blade. There are a fair amount
   of players on our team that like this too. It is really a matter of
   preference.

   I had never heard that the black tape makes it hard for the goalie to
   see the puck coming off of your stick, but this makes a lot of sense!
   I should start buying the cloth tape in black just for my stick
   blades!

   I use black friction tape to tape the top end of my stick, for a good
   grip. This deposits black gunk on your gloves, but the grip is good.
   Players will often wrap a ball of tape called a "butt-end" to the very
   top of the stick to stop it from slipping out of your hands. Another
   trick is to roll up a long piece of tape lengthwise into a long
   string, and wrap it around the top handle of the stick (kind of like a
   barber shop pole) prior to taping up the stick top. This gives you a
   spiral stripe grip underneith the flat tape, that also helps you hold
   onto your stick better.

   For roller hockey, I use the plastic Mylec blades (cost about $2.50)
   attached to shaft from an ice hockey stick that had a broken blade. I
   just saw off the broken wooden blade, and attach the plastic
   replacement. Mylec (and others) sell plastic bladed sticks with wooden
   shafts.

   The stick manufacturer "Montreal" makes a stick that is supposedly for
   street and ice hockey. It is basically has a hard graphite housing
   around the whole blade and lower part of the shaft of the stick. These
   are expensive, and I've never seen anyone use one for ice hockey, but
   a lot of the street hockey players like them because they stay stiff
   like wooden blades, not flex a lot like the plastic ones.

   Some other sticks that are availble for ice and street hockey are
   aluminum shafts. I use an aluminum stick shaft for ice hockey now. The
   blades are wooden with a glue on the top end. One heats the end of the
   metal shaft and the glue end of the blade with a powerful hair dryer
   and then you slide the glued end into the shaft. When it cools, the
   metal contracts and the combination of this with the glue holds the
   blade in place. When the blade breaks, you heat it up again to remove
   it, and put on a new one. The blades themselves cost a little less
   than a whole new stick, and the shaft is a one time charge. They have
   also come out with these for street hockey, using blades similar to
   the Montreal sticks described above.

   Some players like the aluminum shafts because they are light, and can
   come in more flexible or more stiff grades. This allows a player to
   have a stick with the feel s/he likes and also have at least the shaft
   portion of the stick be consistent, since only the blade is replaced.
   Even two of the same brand and model stick can be different in weight
   and flex, since the wood may be from 2 different trees, etc.

   Whew, my original intention was not for this to be so long winded,
   Nancy covered most of the stick stuff (very well too!) in her post,
   but since I'm on a roll..........

   Pucks and Balls:

   In ice hockey, one uses a hard black rubber puck, 3" in diameter, and
   (I think) 3/4" in thickness. The puck is usually frozen before a game
   so it's temperature matches that of the ice, and it can slide better.

   1) very hard plastic pucks -- These can be use for street or floor
   hockey, but usually aren't as they are really hard and hurt a lot if
   you get hit with one and have little protection (usually the case with
   street hockey). This is all we had when I was little, and looking
   back, I can't believe we used to use these things all the time! On
   hard surfaces, these skip up etc. when new, but as soon as the edges
   get chewed up a bit and round out, they slide pretty well, even on
   asphalt.

   2) soft hollow plastic pucks -- These are only good for really smooth
   surfaces.. We use these on gym floors. They don't even work very well
   on tennis courts, which is where we usually play roller hockey. They
   are great for floor hockey in a gym though.

   3) softer plastic pucks with rollers -- These were an attempt to make
   a lighter puck that would slide better on rougher outdoor surfaces.
   They aren't great, but are better than (2) above outdoors. They often
   end up rolling on their edges, or coming apart at the seams if someone
   takes a hard shot! All in all, not great.

   Hockey balls:

   Hockey balls are usually used for street hockey and DEK hockey (a game
   played in rinks built with a special plastic surface by Mylec). The
   balls are hollow flexible plastic, and work well on all types of
   surfaces. They come in different hardnesses for different weather
   conditions, surfaces etc. (softer for winter and less abrasive
   surfaces, harder for summer and more abrasive surfaces). They require
   slightly different skills than using a puck though.


     _________________________________________________________________



   -Tony Chen ([e-mail])

   *This image is Copyrighted - 1994 by Anthony D. Chen. Permission is
   granted to use this logo in World Wide Web HTML files so long as this
   copyright notice is included as either an HTML comment alongside the
   invokation (IMG SRC or HREF or otherwise) of the logo, or in the
   visible text.

   The image may not be sold for profit, nor incorporated in commercial
   documents or merchandise without prior written permission of the
   copyright holder.


     _________________________________________________________________

   TOC #1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #6 #7 #8 #9 #10 #11 PICS
Posted-By: auto-faq 3.1.1.2
Archive-name: rec-skate-faq/part4


   Rec.skate Frequently Asked Questions: Part 4
     _________________________________________________________________

   What and Where to Buy *

                 REC.SKATE FAQ - PART 4: WHAT AND WHERE TO BUY

Table of Contents

     * List of skate-related manufacturers
     * list of in-line mail-order places
     * Guide to Buying Inline Skates
     * After-market Add-ons
     * poles
     * ski buckle modification


     _________________________________________________________________

LIST OF IN-LINE MAIL-ORDER PLACES

   (plus some regular shops)

   (last changed Mar 1, 1995)

   The following list is here thanks to Joe Clark ([e-mail]).
   Most of the manufacturers do not sell skates direct over the phone.
   They will most likely point you to a sales rep to talk to in your
   area.

   Manufacturers:

   BAUER

    Canstar Sports USA Inc.
    50 Jonergin Drive
    Swanton, VT 05488
    800 750 1713 in VT
    800 362 3146
    800 451 5120
    802 868 2711
    802 868 4713 fax



   Canstar Sports Group, Inc.
    6500 Millcreek Drive
    Mississauga, ON L5N 2W6
    905 821 4600
    905 821 1860 fax



   Canstar Sports AG
    Talgut-Zentrum 19
    CH-3060 Ittigen
    Switzerland/Suisse/Schweiz
    [phone]/585887
    [phone] fax (this number is suspicious, but I'm reporting it
    verbatim)



   ROCES

   Exel Marketing, Inc.
    1 Second Street
    Peabody, MA 01960
    800 343 5200
    508 532 2226
    508 532 3728 fax



   Exel Marketing, Ltd.
    56 Churchill Drive
    Barrie, ON L4M 6E7
    705 739 7690
    705 739 7684 fax



   [also the following]
   9 rue Plateau
   Pointe Claire, QC H9R 5W1
   514 694 1077
   514 694 3284 fax


   Roces srl
   Via G. Ferraris 36
   31044 Montebelluna
   Italia
   [phone] r.a. (r.a. means automatic searching of a free line
   (when there are multiple lines with the same number)
   [phone] fax


   ROLLERBLADE

   Rollerblade, Inc.
    5101 Shady Oak Road
    Minnetonka, MN 55343
    800 232 ROLL
    800 68 BLADE (?)
    612 930 7000
    612 930 7030 fax



   Benetton Sportsystem Inc.

    3520 Alphonse-Gariepy
    Lachine, QC H8T 3M2
    800 661 ROLL
    514 631 6331
    514 631 1005



   ULTRA-WHEELS

    First Team Sports, Inc.
    2274 Woodale Drive
    Mounds View, MN 55112-4900
    800 458 2250
    612 780 4454
    612 780 8908 fax



   OXYGEN

   Atomic for Sport (Atomic Ski USA)
   9 Columbia Drive
   Amherst, NH 03031
   800 258 5020
   603 880 6143
   603 880 6099 fax


   Atomic Ski Canada
   Somewhere in Mississauga, ON
   905 569 2300
   (U.S. 800 number works in Canada)


   CCM

    Maska U.S. Inc.
    Box 381
    Pierson Industrial Park
    Bradford, VT 05033
    phone numbers unknown


    Sport Maska Inc.
    7405 Trans-Canada Highway, Suite 300
    St.-Laurent, QC H4T 1Z2
    514 331 5150
    514 331 7061



   K2
    K2 Corp. - [phone]



   ROLLER HOCKEY INTERNATIONAL

   [Day-to-day office]
   5182 Katella Ave., Suite 106
   Los Alamitos, CA 90720
   310 430 2423
   310 431 2928 fax


   [Executive office]
   13070 Fawn Hill Drive
   Grass Valley, CA 95945
   916 274 0923
   916 274 1115 fax


   NATIONAL INLINE HOCKEY ASSOCIATION (an amateur governing and
   organizing body)
   800 358 NIHA
   305 358 8988
   305 358 0046 fax


   WORLD ROLLER HOCKEY LEAGUE

    6358 N. College Avenue
    Indianapolis, IN 46220
    317 283 2900



   INTERNATIONAL IN-LINE SKATING ASSOCIATION

    (this could be an incorrect address-- as of January 1994, I had heard
    they were moving to Atlanta)
    5101 Shady Oak Road
    Minnetonka, MN 55343
    800 for iisa



   KRYPTONICS

    Kryptonics, Inc.
    5660 Central Avenue
    Boulder, CO 80301
    800 766 9146, orders only
    303 665 5353
    303 665 1318 fax



   HYPER WHEELS

    15241 Transistor Lane
    Huntington Beach, CA 92649
    714 373 3300
    713 373 2525 fax



   N&Co. (Benetton Sportsystem/Rollerblade apparel organ)

    Princeton Pike Corporate Centre, Building 3
    997 Lennox Drive
    Lawrenceville, NH 08648
    800 688 2288
    609 896 3800
    609 896 3244 fax



   KARHU

    Karhu Canada Inc
    1200 55th Avenue
    Lachine, QC H8T 3J8
    514 636 5858
    514 636 5751 fax


    Karhu USA Inc.
    Box 4249
    55 Green Mountain Drive
    South Burlington, VT 05406
    802 864 4519
    802 864 6774 fax



   STREET LINE (accessories)

    Charlie Parcells
    313 331 7371
    [e-mail]



   BORDER PATROL (portable rollerhockey rink perimeter)

    In-Line Sport Systems, Inc.
    821 Marquette Ave., Suite 2300
    Minneapolis, MN 55402
    800 809 RINK
    612 342 2337
    612 338 2302 fax

   A VERY GOOD HOCKEY-GEAR STORE

    Just Hockey Pro Shops
    900 Don Mills Road
    Don Mills, ON M3C 1V6
    416 445 3300
    416 445 3500 team sales
    416 445 4564 fax




     _________________________________________________________________

GENERAL MAIL ORDER SHOPS

     * D-WING: 1-800-44D-WING
     * Great Skate Hockey Supply: 1-800-828-7496
     * Grind Zone Skates: 1-800-322-3851, P.O. Box 524, Albertville, AL
       35950
     * Hard-line: 1-310-306-5376
     * Inline USA: 1-800-685-6806,
       http://www.terminus.com/inline/skate.htm
     * In-line Skate Accessories (ISA): 1-800-766-5851, 1800 Commerce
       St., Boulder, CO 80301
     * Inline Sports: [phone], 19998 Homestead Rd., Cupertino, CA
       95014
     * Millenium: 1-800-M-INLINE
     * Ocean Hockey Supply: 1-800-631-2159
     * Performance Bicycle: 1-800-727-2433
     * Riedell: 612-388-8616
     * Rainbow Sport Shop: 1-312-275-5500, 4836 N. Clark St., Chicago, IL
       60640
     * Roll With It: 310-434-0063 (out of date?), 920 Manhattan Ave,
       Manhattan Beach, CA 90266
     * Skate City Supply Inc.: 505-294-6699, PO Box 379, Ceder Crest NM
       87008
     * Skates on Haight [phone] / Skates Off Haight (415)
       244-9800, P.O. Box 170010, San Francisco, CA 94117-0010
     * South Windsor Arena: 1-800-hockey1, 585 John Fitch Blvd., South
       Windsor, CT 06074
     * Superior Inline: [phone], 10510 France Ave. So. #203,
       Bloomington, Mn. 55431
     * Team Paradise : 1-714-969-3427, [e-mail]

Grind plates:

   CDS Detroit - 1-313-331-7371

Bearings manufacturers:

     * Blackhole - 1-800-327-9393
     * Powell Swiss "Bones" - 1-805-964-1330
     * Boss - 1-714-890-7236
     * Grizzly Gear - 1-612-535-2035

Wheels:

   FR Progressors - 1-212-691-1237 (grinding wheels)

Pads:

Rector: 800 248 5633
Boneless: 801 627 3292
Pro Designed: 713 957 0341

Videos:
Anywhere Sports - 1-310-825-5464 (NISS '94 video)
Videogroove - 1-800-960-8486




Ramp plans:
Ramptech Design and Construction
7015 Westmoreland Road
Falls Church, VA 22042
703-573-RAMP
703-560-VERT fax





Professional skaters:
Team Adventures - 1-408-646-5378 (inline stunt team and can be hired)


     _________________________________________________________________

   Boston area: From [e-mail] Mon Jan 10 17:38:29 1994

   Eric Flame's Motion Sports, located on Newbury Street across from
   Tower Records, specializes in in-line skates.

   From: [e-mail] (Michael Dickens)

   City Sports (many locations): Carries the whole line of RollerBlade,
   nothing else. You can buy a 10% discount for $10 (ask them), which can
   save you $20 or $30 (depending on what you REALLY want to buy).

   Zwicker's: Somewhere North of Boston, near route 3 and 128. Best
   prices but not easy to get to. Carries RollerBlade and others; but is
   being limited by RollerBlade's new policy (requiring dealers to limit
   themselves to ONLY RollerBlade products or not sell the whole line).

   Bob Smith's: Near Downtown Crossing, Boston. Average prices, but the
   staff Skates & is reasonably knowledgeable.

   Lechmere: CambridgeSide Galleria, Cambridge. Carries the bottom line
   models; average prices; staff is unhelpful and unknowledgeable.

   NOTE: For what you buy, you will get NO warranty (except the usual
   Manufacturer's warranty). Mail order is probably going to be as cheap
   if not cheaper than the best price you can find around town, and with
   the same warranty. IMHO a good way to buy skates is to go to City
   Sports and try on all the models you might want to try; possibly rent
   (for $10 or $15) the skates to make sure the model and size are
   correct.

   Then call around to the In-Line 800-number Mail Order places (see FAQ
   4) to get the best price (including shipping & time), and compare this
   with the price and delay you'd pay in you local area. Go with the one
   that suits you better.

   Murray Sandler's on Concord Ave in Belmont 484-5100 has inlines,
   quads, and ice Ice House in Wellesley 237-6707 has quads and ice as
   fas as I know. Beacon Hill skates, 482-7400 has inlines quads and ice.
   Ask for Chris.

   California: Hudson Bay Inline [phone] 5405 College Avenue
   Oakland, CA 94618 Courtesy Sports 4856 El Camino Real, Los Altos, CA
   94022 415-968-7970 Orders 1-800-729-1771 FAX [phone] Ohio:
   Northland Ice Center in Cincinnati Ohio (513) 563 - 0008. --- More
   speed-skating oriented:

   Skate Pro in S.F. [phone]
   Built for Speed [phone]
   SMR Sports [phone]

   Competition Skates [phone]
   c/o John Skelton
   501 Springville Cr.
   Birmingham AL 35215

   Trailways Skate Rental [phone]
   c/o Tom Sehlhorst
   611 Palm Bluff
   Clearwater FL 33515

   Montrose Skate [phone]
   c/o John McKay
   1406 Stanford
   Houston TX 77019

   Shop Skate Escape [phone]
   c/o Janice Phillips
   1086 Piedmont Ave
   Atlanta GA 30309


     _________________________________________________________________

   Guide to Buying In-line Skates *

   (last changed Feb. 10, 1995)

What This Guide Is



   This guide to buying in-line skates is to provide an organized method
   for skate shopping. It is intended for those readers with little or no
   knowledge of in-line skates. This guide is not review-oriented and any
   specific skate manufacturers and models shown or mentioned is only for
   use in examples. (See part 5 of the FAQ for skate reviews.)

   As with all things bought and sold, read the fine print before buying.
   Make sure you can return the merchandise if it is found to be broken
   or otherwise defective after you purchase it.

   Warning: this guide may be offensive to salespeople who pretend they
   know what's going on when they sell skates in stores. Tough noogies.

   If you really want to thank me for writing this article, do me a favor
   and wear your helmet. Wear your helmet, your knee pads, and skate
   under control. Learn to brake. Be courteous to pedestrians, bikers and
   other skaters. If you've already done all that, then send me your old
   worn out wheels. I use 'em to prop up my desktop 8-)

   -Tony Chen
   [e-mail]
   700 N. Woodward Ave., Apt C7-3, Tallahassee, FL 32304
   [phone]

   [ This document is Copyright 1994 by Anthony D. Chen. It may be freely
   redistributed in its entirety provided that this copyright notice is
   not removed.

   License is hereby granted to republish on electronic or other media
   for which no fees are charged (except for the media used), so long as
   the text of this copyright notice and license are attached intact to
   any and all republished portion or portions.

   It may not be sold for profit or incorporated in commercial documents
   without the written permission of the copyright holder.

   Permission is expressly granted for this document to be made
   available for file transfer from installations offering unrestricted
   anonymous file transfer on the Internet.

   This file is provided as is without any express or implied warranty.
   Nothing in this file represents the views of Florida State
   University.]

   *This image is Copyrighted 1994 (c) by Anthony D. Chen. Permission is
   granted to use this logo in World Wide Web HTML files so long as this
   copyright notice is included as either an HTML comment alongside the
   invokation (IMG SRC or HREF or otherwise) of the logo, or in the
   visible text.

   The image may not be sold for profit, nor incorporated in commercial
   documents or merchandise without prior written permission of the
   copyright holder.


     _________________________________________________________________

Table of Contents:

    1. Before you go to the store
          + Deciding on your skating needs
               o What type of skating will I want to do?
               o What's most important to me?
          + Deciding on your price range
               o The Crummy Skate Threshold
               o Remember you'll also need safety gear
               o Mail order versus local stores
               o Some mail-order shops
          + Learn the terminology
               o Wheel terms
                    # Diameter
                    # Maximum wheel size
                    # Durometer
                    # Rockering
               o Bearings and ABEC ratings
               o Braking systems
    2. At the store
          + Ignore the sales hype
          + Trying on skates
          + Things to look for
               o Liner fit
               o Closure systems
               o Shell design
               o Wheels and other stuff
    3. After you buy
          + Testing out your skates


     _________________________________________________________________

Before You Go To The Store

   Okay, so you've heard about "rollerblades", you've seen the ads,
   you've watched rollerhockey on TV, you see skaters on the streets and
   on the sidewalks, and now you want a piece of the action too. Where do
   I go? What kind of skate should I buy? How much will it cost me?
   What's the best skate out there?

   While this guide doesn't pretend to be the expert on all skating
   matters, hopefully it'll help shed some light on how to go about
   choosing a proper skate.

   Shopping for in-line skates is much like shopping for a car. Your best
   bet is to go armed with information and to know what each skate
   feature means for you and your skating. Don't listen to the hype. Use
   your brain. About 99.5% of the salespeople in stores I've come across
   know less than I do about the skates they're selling. Many times I've
   posed as an uninformed shopper and asked the standard questions. And
   almost always the answers are rehashed phrases from manufacturers'
   brochures. They throw out buzzwords like "durometer", "ABEC", and
   "ABT" to sound like they actually know something. Don't be thrown off.
   Just show them a printout of this guide, and tell them Tony said
   they're full of baloney. (Bologna, for you nitpickers).

  DECIDE ON YOUR NEEDS

   If you go into the store without a clear goal in mind, you could
   easily end up getting something you don't want. Salespeople love it
   when you do this. So before you put a single big toe inside the store
   door, answer these questions first:

    1. What type of skating will I want to do?

       You can do all sorts of things on skates...figure skating, hockey,
       ramps, stair riding, hills (both up and down), speed skating,
       commuting to work or classes, and on and on. The thing to decide
       here is mainly between three types of skates: multi-purpose,
       hockey, or speed.

       Multi-purpose skates

       Most of you will most likely be looking at multi-purpose skates.
       These are sometimes broken down into other categories like
       "cross-training/fitness" and "recreational". Translation: "costs
       more" and "costs less", respectively.

       Multi-purpose skates probably encompass about 90% of the general
       skate market (my guestimate, not a hard fact so don't quote me).
       These skates are usually made of plastic with a foam liner inside.
       Some have all laces, some all buckles, and some have combinations
       of both. A typical example is the Rollerblade Macroblades Equipes:


       [IMAGE]

       Hockey skates

       Skates made for hockey are made of stitched leather, like those
       you see ice hockey players wear. Most do not come with a foam
       liner. They'll be great on the rink, but won't stand up as well to
       abrasion on outdoor surfaces. Hockey skates always use laces, with
       some models having an additional velcro strap. For example, the
       Bauer H6-comps:

       [IMAGE]

       Speed skates and 5-wheelers

       Speed skates are also made of leather and come with a long
       wheelbase to accommodate 5 wheels. Usually speed skates won't be
       an option in most sports stores, unless it's a shop specializing
       in skates (in which case, ignore my previous remark about
       salespeople and baloney). Speed skates are cut low at the ankles,
       and all have laces, some with one buckle at the ankle. If you're
       looking at racing skates you'll either pick out your components
       separately like Viking Marathon Special boots and the Mogema
       frames: [IMAGE] [IMAGE] or buy the pre-assembled "hybrid" skates
       which are generally considered "recreational" speed/racing skates.
       These are 5-wheelers with plastic boots. Some are cut lower or
       higher depending on their intended usage. For example, the Roces
       Paris (CDG) skates:

       [IMAGE]

       Technically, it's not the extra wheel that makes these skates go
       faster, it's the extra length in the wheelbase. The longer
       wheelbase also makes the skates more stable at higher speeds. The
       trade-off (there's always a trade-off) is that they're much less
       maneuverable than 3 or 4 wheel skates.

    2. What's most important to me? (price, fit, speed, etc.)

       Okay, now that you've chosen the type of skate to buy, the next
       thing to do is to decide what's most important to you in a skate.
       Let me quote the all-purpose law of consumer goods:

       "Good, Fast, Cheap. Pick two."

       For skates, "good" means mostly "comfortable and durable".
       Basically you have to choose what's the LEAST important to you.
       For most people that I've counseled in skate shopping, the price
       usually turns out to be the least important ("What?? Is he crazy?
       I only have $X to spend!" you say? Read on.)

       In general, the more money you put up front, the less it'll cost
       you in the long run. But on ONE condition! This is assuming you
       will be using your skates, and continue to skate for years to
       come. If you're going to buy them and throw them in the closet,
       then go directly to Toys-R-Us or K-mart and buy the $35 skates
       with bright neon green and purple colors. Do not pass GO, and do
       not collect $200.

       Okay, since you're still reading this, you haven't gone off to
       Toys-R-Us, so I'll assume you're committed, or at least committed
       to being committed, to skating. So how does paying more up front
       save you more in the long run? If you buy cheapo skates, your
       skating experience will suck. Plain and simple. If you buy bad
       skates, then after a couple weeks of aches and pain, you'll say
       "See, Tony I told you so. Good thing I didn't spend more money."
       Wrong. Don't confuse cause and effect. Like most things in life,
       GIGO -- garbage in, garbage out. You get out of it, what you put
       into it.

       To put it another way, the better skate that you buy, the better
       it fits. The better they fit, the less pain you endure. The less
       pain you endure, the less blisters you'll get on your feet. The
       less blisters you have, the less blood that oozes from them. I
       said it'd cost you less, and it will...in terms of pain, sweat,
       tears, blood, time, and bandage money. On the other hand, if you
       enjoy the skating, you'll want to go out and skate even more. In
       turn, this means you'll get more for your money. Make sense?

  DECIDE YOUR PRICE RANGE
   The CST

       Now, in the previous section I made it seem like you should go out
       and spend your life savings on the best skate you can find. Only
       if you want to. As with most things, diminishing returns, takes
       effect. $150 skates are definitely 5 times better than $30 skates.
       But are $300 skates twice as good as $150 skates? Well, it
       depends. The bottom line is to stay above what I call the Crummy
       Skate Threshold, or CST for short (ABT, PBS, PCMCIA, PCI, CST,
       ATM, RISC...skate and computer acronym are one big happy family,
       eh?). In my experience, the CST is at around $100-120. Skates
       retailing under $100-120 usually aren't worth their money. You'd
       be a whole lot better off putting that money towards a good pair
       of $150-220 skates. You may find good skates on clearance sales
       and whatnot, but as a general rule, I stand by the CST.

       Safety Gear

       Make sure you factor in $40-$80 for protective gear, when trying
       to estimate your total cost. I would highly, highly, HIGHLY
       recommend (I'd make it mandatory if I had the power) wrist guards
       ($15-17) and knee pads ($17-20) for beginners. A helmet and elbow
       pads are also highly recommended. A bike helmet works just fine,
       if you already have one (if you have a really old helmet though,
       toss it and shell out $40 for a nice new one). Once you're
       bleeding at the hands and knees, it'll be too late to wish that
       you had spent that puny extra $40 up front. Sounds like the bloody
       blister scenario? That's right.

       Mail Order vs. Local Stores

       If all this sounds like you have to spend your life savings again,
       let me quote what Mr. Spock said to Scotty in the Galileo 7
       episode of the old Star Trek series, when their shuttle crashed on
       a planet and Scotty exclaims that all is lost because most of
       their fuel was lost in the landing:
                  "Mr. Scott, there are always alternatives."


       Turns out, through Star Trek magic, that Scotty could convert
       their phasers' energy to shuttle fuel. Amazing. Wish they would
       show us how to convert bullets to gasoline.

       In your case, the alternative is to go mail-order. Mail-order can
       save you a substantial amount of money without sacrificing
       quality. However, the trade-off is (there's that t-word again)
       that you can't try before you buy. You may have to ship the skates
       back once or more, if things aren't quite right or what you
       expected. And of course, you have to wait for UPS or snail-mail
       (USPS) or whoever, to ship it to your door.

       Having said that however, let me just say that my own experiences
       with ordering skates and other accessories through the mail have
       been very satisfactory. And on the plus side, almost all the
       salespeople at the mail-order shops know what they're talking
       about.

       For a list of mail-order shops, look at part 4 of the FAQ



  LEARN THE TERMINOLOGY



   All right, now we're on a roll, so to speak. You know what sort of
   skate you're looking for, you know your target price range, and you're
   ready to jump into that store and start trying on skates. Before you
   do though, go through the following terms and get an idea of what each
   means. Once you're beyond trying on skates for comfort and fit, you'll
   want to compare the other features to see what's best for you.

   Wheel terms:

   (For more in-depth wheel information, see part 2 of the FAQ.)

   Diameter:
       If you'll recall from grade school math, the diameter is the
       length across the widest part of a circle. Twice the length of the
       radius, if you prefer. For wheels, this is measured in millimeters
       (mm). Most wheels come in 72 and 76mm on production skates (other
       sizes are available through mail-order). The shorter the wheel,
       the more stable and maneuverable your skates will be. However,
       they'll also be slower. Taller wheels will let you go faster, but
       are less maneuverable.

   Maximum wheel size:
       Although maximum wheel size won't seem like a big deal when you're
       just beginning, it will be important once you become a proficient
       skater. Low-end skates generally come stocked with 72mm wheels,
       while the higher-end skates come with 76mm wheels. This is no
       accident. Most skaters want speed, and taller wheels are faster,
       all other things being equal.

       Not all skates can take larger wheels though. Most every 76mm
       skate will take up to 80 or 82mm (plenty large for most people).
       72mm skates are another story. Depending on the runner and chassis
       design, some can take only up to 72.5mm wheels, while others can
       squeeze on 76mm ones. Some people actually shave or grind down
       parts of their skates so that they can fit larger wheels. In any
       case, if you can afford it, I'd suggest going with skates that can
       take at least 76mm wheels. You can always switch to smaller wheels
       if you want.

   Durometer:
       Durometer has to do with the DURAbility of wheels. In real terms,
       it means how hard the wheel material is. The industry (plastic
       industry I guess) "A" scale is used, with 0 being softest, and 100
       being hardest. (It's rumored that Rush Limbaugh's skull is rated
       above 500A, but like I said, it's just a rumor.) Most wheels are
       78A or 82A. 78A is considered on the soft side. They don't last
       quite as long as 82A's, but since they're softer, they absorb
       bumps better giving a smoother ride. That's the primary trade-off
       when you go about selecting wheel hardness. For most stock skates,
       you won't have a choice, since they almost all come in 78A. If you
       want or need harder wheels, buy a harder set when your original
       wheels wear out.

   Rockering:
       Rockering sounds like something grandma does while knitting
       sweaters, doesn't it? Well, for skates, it means that you can
       adjust the heights of the axles (and therefore the wheels also),
       to approximate an ice-skate blade, which are usually curved
       upwards at the front and back (hockey skates anyway). The
       curvature allows for more maneuverability, but at the cost of
       stability at higher speeds. Trade-off once again? You bet.

   [IMAGE]



   Bearings and ABEC ratings:
   The two bearings inside each wheel are where the turning action takes
   place. Bearings come in various ratings, based on the ABEC scale. This
   acronym is pronounced "ay-beck". ABEC stands for the Annular Bearing
   Engineering Council (don't ask me what that means). Basically, the
   higher the ABEC number the more precise the bearing has been made. The
   ratings you'll come across are ABEC-1, ABEC-3, and ABEC-5. Generally,
   the more precise the bearings, the faster they'll spin, given the same
   conditions.

   (For more in-depth bearing information, see part 2 of the FAQ.)

   Braking systems:
   Before 1994 the only thing you had to worry about with brakes was
   learning to use them. Now, you have to decipher the SSHA, or Silly
   Sales Hype Acronyms. Rollerblade has the ABT and Oxygen skates has the
   PBS (isn't that a TV station?). Hopefully no other manufacturer will
   jump on the braking system bandwagon without considering what it'll do
   to the market. What we really need is an industry-standard for brakes.
   Right now, every single manufacturer has their own brake design. None
   are compatible (without modifications) with any other manufacturer's
   skates. Even Rollerblades ABT and non-ABT brakes are incompatible.

   In any case, Rollerblade's ABT is essentially a brake on a long screw,
   running up the back of your skates. You can adjust the height of your
   brake by turning the screw. It also means the brake can be activated
   if you tilt your toe up. An example is the Rollerblade Bravoblade GL
   ABT skate:

   [IMAGE]



   The PBS doesn't allow you to adjust the brake height, but instead it
   works like most conventional brakes, with the added effect of pressing
   the brake pad against the rear wheel when you brake.

   The bottom line though, is that these system are neither bad nor good.
   On the plus side, they help beginners brake easier and allows a good
   degree of adujstments (on the ABT anyway). On the down side, ABT
   brakes have been very hard to find, last I heard. Don't even want to
   think about Oxygen brakes. Also, for real power-braking, these systems
   are superfluous (SAT's anyone?). (See part 1 of the FAQ for braking
   techniques.) Learning to brake effectively under various conditions
   still takes practice, not three-letter acronyms.

   One last thing to mention. Not all brakes are equal. Bauer and Roces
   brakes are notorious for poor durability. Rollerblade brakes last very
   well. Anecdote time: back in 1991 or 1992, my buddy Dave got some
   Bauer skates from the rest of us for his birthday. Boy, was he happy.
   That is, until he found out that Bauer brakes last about as long as a
   snowflake in the Sahara Desert (during the daytime anyway). He went
   through one brake in about 2 hours. Good thing for him, the rest of us
   were about ready to order some wheels and he went along for 5 brakes.
   So we get our stuff in a few days and it turns out the catalog meant 5
   SETS of brakes, meaning 10 brakes in all. Good thing too. He needed
   every one of them!


     _________________________________________________________________

  AT THE STORE



   Ignore the hype

   All righty. Now you know what you're looking for, you know all the
   nifty jargon that go along with skates, and you're ready to head to
   the stores and see what they have. Before you go though, bring two
   things (well, three if you want to be picky): athletic socks and a
   ruler with cm/mm markings (a ruler? you'll understand why later on.)

   Wear the socks that you'll be wearing to skate, when you try on
   skates. Double-layered anti-blister socks are always good. Make sure
   they're not too short. You want the socks to cover at least 4-5 inches
   or more above your ankle bone. (Some people do actually skate
   barefooted, but I won't judge anyone on this point. Seems to cause
   more chaffing though, without socks. Personally, I think my skates
   smell enough with me wearing socks, but hey make your own call on this
   one.)

   Okay, now you're in the store. Remember our strategy? That's right,
   "Ignore the sales hype." If you've prepared ahead of time as I've told
   you to, that should be a piece of cake. Ice cream cake. Chocolate-mint
   ice cream cake even (I've always been partial to chocolate-mint).

   Trying on skates

   Okay, here's one part that the salesdroids are good for and good at.
   Pick out a skate that is exactly at your target price (there might be
   several models) and ask to try one on (or all of them if you want to
   be really thorough; or heck, if you just want to make the salesdroids
   work for their money). You might find that your skate size will not be
   exactly your shoe size. Usually skates run a tad large (meaning you'll
   have a smaller skate size than shoe size), and besides, you want a
   snug fit -- as snug as possible without hurting.

   Try on skates a half-size larger and a half-size smaller than your
   normal shoe size to see the difference. Some manufacturers are better
   than other at providing skates for different shaped and sized feet.
   Rollerblade skates, for example, aren't really built that well for
   wide feet. Bauer and Roces tend to be better in this regard.

   After you've got the skates on, wiggle your toes. You'll want to kind
   of press your ankles back against the heel of the skate, while you
   wiggle. If your toes are crammed against the front of the skates,
   they're too tight. If you're foot can jiggle around inside the skates
   while you hold your foot up (like a clapper in a bell), then they're
   too large.

   Okay, the skates are on and snug, so now stand up (slowly!) and put
   your weight on each foot and see how it feels. Wiggle your toes some
   more if you want. Remember that most people have asymmetrical feet. If
   one foot feels less comfortable than the other, you might ask to try
   on a skate of a different size for that foot. Most stores probably
   won't let you buy skates sized different for both feet, but you can at
   least try to minimize the discomfort for both feet combined.

   Walk around in the store for a couple minutes (hopefully it's
   carpeted) and let the liners conform to your feet a little bit.
   Re-tighten the skates and make sure they're still snug.

   Now, the comparisons. Ask to try on two other skates, one in the price
   bracket below your target skate and one above. This is so you'll see
   exactly how different quality liners and boots feel.

   For those of you buying for kids (or if you ARE a kid, physically, not
   mentally), you'll know that kids' feet grow faster than the U.S.
   government's budget deficit. In this case, you might want to look for
   skates that will take multiple liner sizes, so that you can just buy
   larger liners instead of having to buy an entirely new skate each
   time. I haven't personally investigated this but if you interrogate
   the salesfolks, maybe they can offer some help on this.

  THINGS TO LOOK FOR

   The liners are most important!

   Your first criteria should be the liner quality and fit. If your
   skates aren't comfy, the rest of the gadgets won't mean diddly. You
   get better liners in more expensive skates, naturally.

   Closure systems

   Now once you've found good fitting skates, decide on whether you want
   laces, buckles, or both. If you want convenience, an all-buckle setup
   is for you. Buckles are nice in that you can adjust them while you're
   skating, and they're very fast to put on and to take off. Buckles also
   don't break nearly as much as laces do. The one trade-off is that
   buckles don't quite as good an all-around tightness as laces do. For
   most people, that trade-off is a very worthwhile one, but everyone has
   their own preferences.

   Beware of bad buckle design, however. Even the K-mart skates have 3
   buckles. Part of the buckle quality will be in the quality of the
   shell (the plastic boot). If the shell is flimsy or poorly made, your
   buckles won't align very well. There are also various types of
   buckles. Some will feel more solid than others. Try on different types
   and see the difference.

   Many skates compromise and have both laces and an ankle buckle for
   added support. These types of skates usually work pretty well.

   Shell design

   You'll find many types of shell types these days. The most notable
   difference will be vents. Some have them, some don't. The Rollerblade
   Aeroblade was the first to sport such features, and they work quite
   well in cooling your feet and also make the skate lighter What's the
   trade-off, you ask? (I've taught you well, haven't I?) You trade
   cooling and weight-reduction for strength and durability of the shell.


   Normally, this isn't an issue. But for you thrasher types, who like to
   pound on your skates, vents make the skates a little less sturdy than
   their non-vented brethren. The classic Rollerblade Lightnings are
   about the most indestructible skates around. They're non-vented. This
   isn't to say vented skates aren't sturdy, but it's that they're LESS
   sturdy, relative to non-vented skates.

   Wheels and other stuff

   Having compared liners, buckles/laces, and shells, now you can start
   paying attention to the more subtle features, like rockering ability,
   replacement parts availability, and maximum wheel size that the
   runners can fit. Rockering is nice if you skate in a wide variety of
   situations. For hockey or slaloming through cones, many people like to
   rocker their skates for that added maneuverability. Then when they
   switch to hills or long-distance skating, they can put the wheels flat
   again.

   Although this is another one of those plan-ahead type things (like max
   wheel size), it can turn out to be a big one. Finding replacements,
   namely for brakes and sometimes axles or spacers, is not always
   trivial. Rollerblade, being in the market first, has it's distribution
   set up fairly widely so you can pretty much find RB brakes at any
   store that also sells RB skates. With other brands, you won't
   generally be so lucky. In fact, the only other brakes that I've ever
   even seen sold in stores is Bauer's. Even with Rollerblade, there are
   sometimes brake shortages. I now keep a stockpile of half a dozen
   brakes (Rollerblade's old pre-ABT Aeroblades, if you must know) so I
   don't have to worry about it and I can carry a spare brake in my fanny
   pack.

   So I should only buy a Rollerblade or Bauer skate then, you say? Nah.
   Mail-order to the rescue again. You can pretty much find any brand
   brake through catalogs. However, note that brakes tend to be around
   the same price, if not more, through some catalogs, and once you
   factor in shipping and handling, you'll most likely want to order
   brakes along with other equipment to defray the extra cost, as well as
   order more brakes at a time (4 or more should be plenty). And remember
   what I said about brakes and braking systems previously.

   Brakes are a good thing by the way. They only cost $4 or so, while
   wheels will cost you anywhere from $3 to $7 PER WHEEL. Sure, you got
   fancy-pants skaters out there doing their macho T-stops and
   power-slides, but at 8 times $3-$7 dollars...that's anywhere from $24
   to $56 folks! Okay, so you only do T-stops with one skate, that's
   still $12 to $28, and you want to save your wheels for rolling on
   anyway, right?. Economics alone should convince you to at least learn
   to use the brake properly. All those other stops are good to know, but
   build your skills foundation from the bottom up. Learn to brake.

   Maximum wheel size, as I said before, will be important as you get
   better at skating. For the most part, unless you're stuck with really
   small skates (i.e., your feet are really small), then try and get a
   skate that will take at least up to 76mm wheels. Don't trust the spec
   sheets though. The officially stated max wheel sizes are sometimes
   just the "recommended" size, when in fact, if you actually tried
   larger wheels they'd fit.

   Easy way to tell the max wheel size: bring along a tape measure or
   ruler (one with centimeter and millimeter markings, unless you're a
   total whiz at converting English units to cgs in your head). If you
   want to see if a skate will take 76mm wheels, jam your ruler in there,
   with the 38mm mark at the axle center. If the 0mm mark doesn't rub
   against the frame, you're halfway there.

   You also want to measure the distance between axles. Can't have the
   wheels rubbing against each other, can we? Make sure the distance is
   76mm plus a couple mm (so approximately 78mm or more). If that holds,
   then you know the skates should take 76mm wheels.

   The wheels and bearings, you can leave as the last detail to consider,
   since they'll wear out and you can pick your ideal wheels and bearings
   after that. Of course, if in your mind two skates are pretty much
   equal in all other aspects, go for the one with better wheels and
   bearings.

   Bearings usually last longer than wheels, especially with proper care,
   so consider the bearings above the wheel quality. ABEC-1's are
   standard on all skates (except maybe kid's skates), and ABEC-3's are
   very common amongst the high-end skates. Some even sport ABEC-5's, so
   check up on it.

  AFTER YOU BUY

   Okay, so you finally did it. You tried on all sorts of skates, you saw
   how the various models differed, you chose your skate, picked a nice
   color-scheme, pulled out your plastic and made the salespeople happy.
   Time to go out and skate down Mt. Everest, right? Time to hit the road
   and skate the Athens-to-Atlanta race, right? Not so fast.

   Testing out your skates

   Before you go out and go skate-crazy, unpack all the stuff that you
   bought in a nice orderly fashion. Put everything on slowly and snugly,
   and walk around your house in it. On carpet preferably. Make sure
   everything fits like it's supposed to and feels comfortable. Now take
   your gear off and visually inspect your skates. Make sure there's
   nothing loose that isn't supposed to be. Make sure everything moves
   that's supposed to. If not, you can go right back to your store and
   exchange them.

   Let's say everything looks good so far, and you finally go outside to
   try them out. Since you're a beginner, I'd highly recommend that you
   go with an advanced skater (or at least someone who has skated more
   than you have). The ideal place is a flat, empty parking lot with no
   through-traffic, smooth pavement, and grass surrounding the edges.

   Okay, now you're ready to join the millions of the other people who
   have learned to enjoy skating! For more information on technique,
   check part 1 of the FAQ.
     _________________________________________________________________

   [ This file is Copyright 1994 by Anthony D. Chen. It may be freely
   redistributed in its entirety provided that this copyright notice is
   not removed.

   License is hereby granted to republish on electronic or other media
   for which no fees are charged (except for the media used), so long as
   the text of this copyright notice and license are attached intact to
   any and all republished portion or portions.

   It may not be sold for profit or incorporated in commercial documents
   without the written permission of the copyright holder.

   Permission is expressly granted for this document to be made available
   for file transfer from installations offering unrestricted anonymous
   file transfer on the Internet.

   This file is provided as is without any express or implied warranty.
   Nothing in this file represents the views of Florida State
   University.]


     _________________________________________________________________

   *This image is Copyrighted 1994 (c) by Anthony D. Chen. Permission is
   granted to use this logo in World Wide Web HTML files so long as this
   copyright notice is included as either an HTML comment alongside the
   invokation (IMG SRC or HREF or otherwise) of the logo, or in the
   visible text.

   The image may not be sold for profit, nor incorporated in commercial
   documents or merchandise without prior written permission of the
   copyright holder.


     _________________________________________________________________

   After-market Products for In-Line Skates Copyright (C) 1991 Philip A.
   Earnhardt

   Permission is granted to copy and distribute verbatim copies this
   document, provided that copies are distributed freely or with a
   nominal charge for the copying medium. This copyright notice must
   remain attached to the document.

   This document will be updated in the future; comments are welcome.
   Please send comments to: Phil Earnhardt, PO Box 7174, Boulder, CO
   80306-7174. Electronic mail can be sent to [e-mail]


OUTLINE

Introduction -- why to buy
   Safety
   Parts wear out
   Retrofit indoor compatibility
   Better performance -- NOT necessarily faster

Drive Train
   Bearings
   Wheels
   Spacers
   Brake Kits
   Brake Pads

Support
   Orthotics
   Removable/Permanent Ankle Support
   Laces and Boot Liners

Non-skate Products
   Protection
   Hockey Sticks
   Poles
   Packs and Water Bottle Carriers
   Night Lighting
   Tools for Maintenance


Introduction -- why to buy
   Safety

Many of the in-line After-market products will increase your safety.  There's
the traditional protection: helmets, knee pads, wrist guards, elbow pads.
Adding a second brake to your other skate may help improve your safety -- it
may be dangerous to wear out your only brake completely at certain points.
Getting reflectors and night lights can make dawn/dusk/night riding safer.
Carrying spare parts, tools, and other supplies with you in a pack adds a
safety margin to those long-distance trips.

   Parts wear out

If you keep using your in-lines, parts will start wearing out.  Depending on
use, brakes can wear out rapidly. Wheels and bearings will start showing signs
of wear and tear. Eventually, laces and boot liners may need replacing.

   Retrofit indoor compatibility

The newest in-line skates are "indoor compatible" -- they should cause no
damage to the floors of Skating Rinks. Kits are available to make some
existing skates rink-ready. Non-marking brakes are also becoming available.

   Better performance -- NOT necessarily faster

New wheels can give you better cornering, shock absorption, and more speed.
New bearings can make your skates faster, too. On the other hand, some new
bearings will be slower, but they will work maintenance-free for a long time.
Retrofitting old skates with ankle support may make them more comfortable for
long distances.

Drive Train
   Bearings

There is one size of bearing that's used in all in-lines: the 608 bearing.
This same bearing is used by skateboarders and in many industrial
applications; they should not be difficult to find. Traditional
in-line/skateboard bearings lines are GMN, NMB, Peer, Powell "Bones". These
are all shielded bearings -- they resist contamination, but are not sealed
against it. All of these bearings are around an "A" grade bearing -- good
speed. Of the bunch, the Powells are the most precise, they may deserve an
"AA" grade. The Powells are the easiest to maintain, since they are shielded
on only one side. They are also more expensive.

Powell manufacturers a bearing lubricant, Speed Cream. It's an emulsion with
an oil component and a grease-like component. Speed Cream gives good speed and
lasts for a long time; one small bottle will easily last for a season.
[Comments? Any oil-only recommendations? Any other grease recommendations?]

[Does someone have the information about the industrial bearing grades?]

Industrial bearings are generally more precise than the stuff used on skates.
They are also much more expensive and may not be suited for an outdoor
environment. Completely unshielded bearings are also available; they should
only be used in very clean environments.

There are also sealed bearings available: GMN, NMB and other bearings with
seals and a fairly heavy grease. These are slow bearings -- wheels will not
spin a complete revolution with sealed bearings in place. On the other hand,
they appear to be waterproof and dirt-proof. Rollerblade sells sealed bearings
under the Max Trainer name [who is Max?]. They are more expensive in the
Powell bearings, but should enjoy a long, maintenance-free life.

   Wheels

As near as I can determine, there are 2 mainline manufacturers of wheels:
Hyper and Kryptonics. These manufacturers will create custom runs of wheels
for in-line manufacturers, but they're still made by one of these guys. Jenex,
a company making roller ski products, makes a specialty wheel; see the bottom
of this section for details.

Many of the original equipment in-line wheels are inferior: they use
lower-grade wheel material and/or inferior hub design. Specifically, I don't
like the Rollerblade 608 wheels, which are also distributed as an after-market
wheel. Since these wheels are often more expensive than other recreational
replacement wheels, they should be easy to avoid.

Generally, skate runners have enough clearance for a certain maximum diameter
of wheel. Some racing skates (e.g., Zandstra Skeelers) will take wheels up to
80mm. Rollerblade's Racerblade and Aeroblade will take wheels up to 77mm --
it's expected that non-Rollerblade models will soon appear in this size. Most
everything else will take wheels up to a 72.5mm diameter.

Wheels are available in a variety of hardnesses; these are described by a
100-point "A" scale where 100 is the hardest wheel. In general, the fastest
speeds will be attained on a smooth track with the hardest wheels.
Unfortunately, most surfaces are not smooth enough for hard wheels; the softer
wheels will give a much smoother ride on rougher surfaces. A reasonable
hardness tradeoff is around a 78A wheel; some may prefer an 82A wheel. Some
skaters will use slightly harder wheels on the front and back of the skate
with softer wheels in the middle.

Currently, Kryptonics markets 3 lines of wheels: recreational, hockey, and
racing. The recreational wheels are 70mm in diameter; 78A, 82A, and 85A
hardness are available. These are good all-around recreational wheels; they
are also the cheapest in the Kryptonics line.

The hockey wheels are available only in 70mm 82A. Besides being good hockey
wheels, they have good cornering because there's a large surface in contact
with the surface. These are the widest wheels that are available for in-lines.

The racing, or Turbo Core, wheels are available in 3 sizes: 72.5mm, 77mm, and
80mm. They're available in 3 hardnesses 74A, 78A, and 82A. (Note: availability
of the 72.5mm wheels is currently very limited; the first runs were only
distributed in an 78A hardness). These are great wheels for most anything --
the hub design minimizes mass, but gives a good connection between the outer
wheel and the bearing. These are the wheels that most racers used in 1991.
They are a bit more expensive.

Hyper makes "normal" and "ultralight" wheels. As near as I can tell, there's
never a reason to go with the "normal" wheels; the "ultralight" guys are
plenty strong. Hyper wheels are available in 72mm, 76mm, and 80mm. The 80mm
wheels are available in 75A, 78A, and 82A. The 72mm and 76mm wheels are
available in 78A, 82A, 85A, and 93A. Unless under another label (e.g., Bauer
wheels are made by Hyper), these wheels are fairly difficult to find; some
mail-order shops carry them. The one obvious advantage over the Krypto skates
would be to use the hard 93A wheels on banked speed-skating tracks (of which
there are 2 in the whole USA! Sigh.).

Jenex, Inc., a company that makes roller ski products, is selling in-line
wheels intended for cross-country ski training. The wheels are 70mm 82A nylon
reinforced with glass fibers. The company has been successful with this wheel
chemistry on roller skis; it should work well for in-lines.

Included with each wheel is a pair of "dual contact type" seals "the most
effective seals available" (from their glossy). These sound like the Max
Trainer bearings available from Rollerblade. A pair of 2 wheels with bearings
has a MSRP of $28.95. This is a bit steep, but not completely outrageous if
they significantly outlast normal wheels and bearings.

Jenex recommends using only 2 of these wheels on each skate, leaving normal
wheels in the inner positions. For folks who like to maximize their workout
(i.e. outrageously slow skates), put a set of 4 on each skate.

The number for Jenex is [phone]. (Amherst, NH, USA).

   Spacers

Most skates have a solid axle -- typically, a bolt -- running through the
center of the wheel. The axle should have a tight fit with the wheel's spacer
-- the small plastic tube that's sandwiched between the two bearings.

Several companies are manufacturing integrated axle/spacer systems.  The
spacers are machined aluminum shaped like a plastic spacer on the outside.
Inside, they are threaded; the kits include pairs of bolts that screw into
each side of the kits. Some of the kits include replacement parts to the
Rollerblade oval spacers.

The spacer kits appear to make wheels spin a bit better; this may be because
the metal spacer cannot be compressed, eliminating a pre-load on the bearings.
[Alternate theories are welcomed.]  The kits generally have much smaller bolt
heads; such heads should make the skates much more acceptable to indoor rink
operators. [Question: are bolts on the Blading Edge kit somehow mounted flush
to the runners?  (i.e. no possibility of the bolt heads damaging rink
surfaces).]

Spacer kits are available from some mail-order shops and some skating
retailers. These kits cost anywhere from $20 to $40.

   Brake Kits

Virtually all in-line skates come with at least one brake. Some come with two.
All Rollerblade skates and some other brands sell a brake kit. These allow you
to mount a brake on the other skate.

A second brake gives an added margin of safety -- if the first brake fails
(e.g., wears out, etc.), the second is available. Aesthetically, a second
brake makes braking a symmetrical activity. If you're adept at using a single
brake, you will have an interesting experience teaching yourself how to
effectively use the "other" brake.

   Brake Pads

For Rollerblade skates, there are 3 types of brake pads available: standard,
TRS, and polyurethane. Standard brakes tend to be fairly screechy and wear out
the fastest. TRS brakes, which come in gray, last much longer and don't
screech as much. They're more expensive than standard brakes. Polyurethane
brakes, which come in bright blue and pink, last about as long as TRS brakes.
They don't screech at all.  They're also non-marking. This may be a feature if
you use your skates at rinks; it may be a non-feature if you're into macho
brake marks.  Poly brakes are about the same price as TRS brakes.

Rollerblade brakes sell anywhere from $3-$5 each.

[I don't know anything about non-rollerblade brake pads.]


Support
   Orthotics

Generally, orthotics are used to neutralize any sideways lean in your feet.
When in a neutral stance, boots should be nvertical. For most people their
feet are slightly angled inwards or outwards.

For edging sports like skiing, it's vital that a neutral position yields a
flat ski; a proper orthotic can make a huge difference. Since in-lines lack
distinct edges, their value is a bit less on skates. On the other hand, a
ski-boot orthotic may well serve double-duty in your in-line skates.

Ski shops and some footwear shops sell orthotics; good ones will cost anywhere
from $50 - $150. These are a serious investment, but the payback for better
improvement may be large.

   Removable/Permanent Ankle Support

Newer in-line skates (e.g. Rollerblade TRS Lightning, Bauer XT-7, etc.) have a
ski-like buckle at the ankle. Such support usually gives recreational skaters
added support and control.

Rollerblade markets a pair of nylon straps with velcro connectors; give good
support, but they are a bit expensive. Equally effective are nylon straps with
holes and a simple buckle design. If you really want buckles, there's a brand
of ratcheting toe straps available from Performance bike. Other types of
bicycle toe straps may work too, provided they're long enough.

Many of these straps will fit in-between the two lace guides on the top of the
boot. Remember to put the fastening device for the strap on the outside of the
boot. This will minimize the possibility of hitting the other boot.

Some companies are selling After-market ratchet kits for lace-only skates. The
advantage over the removable straps is that they won't be lost. Unfortunately,
these work poorly. First, the pawl must be put on the inside of the boot --
there's no boot shell in front. This increases the chance of hitting the other
boot while skating. The ratchet lever must also be farther forward, increasing
the chance that it will spontaneously open while skating. Without radical boot
surgery, an add-on ratchet kit will perform poorly.

   Laces and Boot Liners

I've had good experience with thicker laces -- they allow you to crank tighter
and seem to more resistant to failure. The Crazy Legs brand works very well
and is available in a variety of bright colors.

Eventually, the springy material in boot liners will become permanently
compressed. Rollerblade sells boot liners for their skates; other
manufacturers probably do, too. [Any info??]

Non-skate Products
   Protection

There are three pieces of "primary" protection: helmets, wrist guards, and
knee pads. Head injuries are relatively rare, but their consequences are often
extreme. An ANSI- or snell-approved bike helmet will give proper projection.
Make sure to have the straps properly adjusted and have the helmet "flat" on
the head -- most of your forehead should be covered by the helmet.

Wrist guards will keep the wrist from bending too far backwards during a fall.
The Rollerblade TRS guards are excellent wrist guards. There are many other
brands of wrist guards available from the Skateboard manufacturers -- Dr. Bone
Savers (or DBS), Rector, etc.

Knee pads will allow your knee to slide if it hits the ground during a fall;
they can also distribute the force of impact somewhat. Again, the Rollerblade
TRS and DBS knee pads are very good -- they have a large, smooth, riveted
surface. Avoid the waffle-shaped Rollerblade Bladerunner knee pads -- they
will fail after a few dozen falls.

There are several types of "secondary" protection: elbow pads, gloves, a thick
pair of pants, a rear-view mirror.

   Hockey Sticks

(see the Hockey FAQ)

   Poles

Using skating skiing poles can add an upper-body workout to your skate
sessions. Double-poling without skating can make your profile quite narrow, a
possible safety enhancement on narrow sections of road. On the other hand,
poles only work well on asphalt surfaces -- the tips will skid on concrete
trails. Also, poles greatly increase your length and are poorly-understood by
other path users. I recommend their usage only on low-volume paved
trails/roads.

Since in-line skates increase your height more than x-c skis, a slightly
longer pole may be needed. Also, remove the pole's basket and replace it with
a ferrule specially made for road use -- both Swix and Excel make these for
their poles.

Sharp tips and good form are crucial. If the wrist is bent backwards on each
stroke, it's possible to aggravate the hand ligaments running through the
Carpal Tunnel. Some of the new ski pole handles -- particularly the Swix "T"
handle -- can help minimize this danger.

   Packs and Water Bottle Carriers

Around 1985, Ultimate Direction began marketing the first waist belt water
bottle carriers. These are available in a variety of sizes -- from a tiny
8-ounce bottle carrier to a 2500 cubic inch backpack.  Several of the packs'
bottle carriers can be zipped completely shut, which helps to keep fluids hot
or cold longer. UD's water bottles are waterproof when closed.

At 1500 cubic inches, UD's Voyager pack is an excellent pack for the
commuting/long-distance skater. The suspension of the pack keeps the load low
and minimizes interferance with the skating stroke. A clever layout of the
shoulder straps prevents chafing under the arms when using poles. Skates can
be lashed to the bottom of the pack when you get where you're going.  Finally,
this pack is useful for all types of other activities -- day hikes, downhill
skiing, x-c skiing, biking, etc.

There are many other brands of fanny packs with water bottle carriers.  Many
of these brands have reasonable quality; almost all cost less than the UD
fanny packs. For a fanny pack, the Mountainsmith day packs have a large
capacity, but they lack a water bottle holster.

   Night Lighting

Two companies make first-class helmet headlights for night skating: Night Sun
and Night Rider. These two-bulb systems both have halogen lights with a
variety of wattages (5-30) available. They qualify as "see lights" -- they
output enough light to allow you to see with no other lighting source.
Typical bulb selection is for a high and low beam.

The Night Sun system uses a custom battery that's manufactured in a standard
bicycle watter bottle case; this works well with the water bottle carriers
described above. The Night Rider system's battery has a molded shell that fits
against the back. It comes with a custom fanny pack that holds the battery.
Both systems are around $200.

A much lower-cost option is the Underwater Kinetics mini-Q40 flashlight.  This
light uses 4 AA batteries in a 2x2 configuration and a very efficient xenon
bulb; it almost qualifies as a "see" light. It fits comfortably in the hand or
can be mounted on a wrist with a nylon strap. This light sells for about $20
at SCUBA shops. Consider carrying a backup set of batteries with you.

For tail lights, the clip-on version of the Vistalight works fairly well. It
has 4 LEDs that flash several times a second; the light will work for several
hundred hours (!) on a pair of AA batteries. There's also a Sanyo leg-strap
light with a low-efficiency incandescent bulb and a single non-flashing LED to
the rear. This light can be turned into a high-efficiency tail light by
removing (or just unscrewing) the bulb.  A solid LED strapped to a leg
probably gives a better sense of distance than flashing LEDs clipped to the
waist.  Both the Vistalight and the Sanyo light are available from Performance
Bike Shops.

Bike stores sell a variety of reflective vests, triangles, and self-adhesive
reflector kits. Reflective patches can be added to helmets, and skates, and
poles.

   Tools for Maintenance

For skates with one or two hex bolts per axle, a socket wrench can make wheel
maintenance easier; shops generally use battery-powered tools for speed.

Running a vacuum cleaner around the wheels after each use can remove dirt
before it gets into the bearings.

For skating poles, a DMT diamond whetstone will keep the ferrules nice and
sharp.

----------------------------------------------------------------

Phil Earnhardt          [e-mail]
Netwise, Inc.           Boulder, CO  [phone]


     _________________________________________________________________

POLES

   From: [e-mail] (Phil Earnhardt)
   Date: 6 Feb 92 21:14:02 GMT

   There are two main issues with using poles. First, if you're using
   poles on "bike trails," I recommend against their use if there is any
   appreciable amount of other traffic. Pedestrians, cyclists, and other
   skaters don't understand the motion of poles and won't know how to
   safely interact with you. High traffic also limits a
   full-commit-asymmetrical-pole-plant style -- the *real* fun stuff to
   be doing with poles.

   If you're on a "bike lane" or are mixing it up with regular automobile
   traffic, I had no problem with the use of poles.

   The second issue is a technical one -- you can't effectively use ski
   pole tips on concrete surfaces. They work great on asphalt, but poorly
   on harder stuff. They skid off the surface unless you're using an
   unnatural amount of force on the tips. This excessive force is poor
   technique and can lead to injury. From someone who skated real close
   to having CTS, I recommend avoiding hard surfaces.

   I used poles for years in Boston. After I moved to Boulder, I use them
   rarely. In Boulder, the major trails are all concrete. Also, the human
   density on those trails is prohibitively high. I use my poles when I'm
   not skating locally.

   Poles are fairly durable. The only time I lost one was when I did a
   pole plant into a storm drain. Aluminum ones are OK; composite poles
   will transmit a bit less of the road vibration back to you. I really
   like the Swix "T" handles -- I have a pair of the Swix Skatelite
   Aluminum poles for on-snow (and occasional in-line) skating.

   Never ever attempt to use the poles for slowing down -- either you
   will fail, or bad things will happen when you succeed.

   If you need some instruction on pole technique, pick up Lee Borowsky's
   booklet _The Simple Secrets of Skating_. 'Tis an excellent book on x-c
   skate skiing.

   Benefits? Besides the obvious upper-body conditioning stuff, you also
   get much more variety in your skating. You can mix up all sorts of
   poling patterns with your normal skate strokes. If you want to go into
   gorilla mode, you can glide with your skates, pushing yourself solely
   with your poles. This is a good technique if you encounter some
   terrain that requires you to have a narrow profile. As noted earlier,
   going full-out with asymmetrical pole plants is a sport unto itself.

   From: [e-mail] (Michael Babineau)
   Date: 25 Apr 92 02:48:11 GMT

   In article , [e-mail] (DAve.) writes: |> Does anyone
   who uses the Rollerblade Ski Pole like things have any comments |> to
   make regarding:

   1) I assume that you are referring to XC Ski Skating practice.
   Rollerblades provide a good simulation of XC Ski Skating however
   you'll find that you go somewhat faster with less effort than you will
   on snow. To ensure you get a good workout, find someplace with lots of
   nice paved hills.

   2) When skating with poles on the local recreation paths I normally
   don't pole when overtaking or meeting pedestrians or cyclists, the
   sight of poles going up and down seems to strike fear in the hearts of
   many.

   3) Like XC-ski skating you shouldn't find that your arms are sore at
   the end of the day. If they are you are relying on your poles too much
   ... remember that all the power is in your legs. Also be carefull of
   how hard you pole, otherwise you'll find that your elbows get sore,
   you don't get the same sort of cushoning effect that you do on snow.

   You will find that you do get a better workout with poles because of
   the arm action.

   4) Personally, I don't use the Rollerblade poles. I just take the tips
   off of my regular Skating poles by softening up the glue under hot
   running water, then I glue on carbide tips (should be available in
   your local XC-Ski shop) using a glue gun. The carbide tips give a good
   grip on pavement and won't get dull like normal steel tips. Polling
   can be tricky on concrete.


     _________________________________________________________________

BUCKLES

   From: [e-mail] (Daniel Fay)
   Subject: Buckles for MacroBlades...finally
   Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 14:11:27 GMT

   I have been finally able to find buckles to replace my velcro
   straps.... they are the same as the ones on the TRS. They are
   available from Skate City Supply Inc., PO Box 379, Ceder Crest NM
   87008...505-294-6699 No catalog...but they seem to carry everything
   and anything.

   It is about $19 for a pair...and they even send all the rivets and
   washers. The guy on the phone said they import the buckles into the
   country, and most everone else gets the buckles from them. For the
   MacroBlades all you have to do is pop the rivets out on the current
   buckles and use the same holes for the new buckles and rivets. On the
   other side you have to drill a hole in the plastic for the other
   rivet. Pretty simple...as long as you have a rivet gun.

   Also, Skate City said they were going to be moving away from carrying
   Rollerblades and move to Roces (the company that manufactures RB's
   stuff). One of the main reasons was that they are cheaper and come
   with Hyper wheels instead of the 608's.


     _________________________________________________________________



   -Tony Chen ([e-mail])

   *This image is Copyrighted 1994 (c) by Anthony D. Chen. Permission is
   granted to use this logo in World Wide Web HTML files so long as this
   copyright notice is included as either an HTML comment alongside the
   invokation (IMG SRC or HREF or otherwise) of the logo, or in the
   visible text.

   The image may not be sold for profit, nor incorporated in commercial
   documents or merchandise without prior written permission of the
   copyright holder.


     _________________________________________________________________

   TOC #1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #6 #7 #8 #9 #10 #11 PICS
Posted-By: auto-faq 3.1.1.2
Archive-name: rec-skate-faq/part5


   Rec.skate Frequently Asked Questions File: Part 5
     _________________________________________________________________

   Skate and Product Reviews *

   (last changed Feb 1, 1995)

    NOTE: Some of these "reviews" are simply articles pulled from alt.skate
    (now defunct) and rec.skate, some even dating from May 1991. While these
    articles include many facts and first-hand experience, much of the text
    here is necessarily opinion. Also realize that the in-line market is
    changing rapidly, so prices and specifications are likely to be out of
    date.



   The newer standardized review format (a copy is attached at the end of
   this file) will be used for most of the new reviews from now on.

   -Tony Chen ([e-mail])
     _________________________________________________________________

Table of contents

     * Hop Up kits
          + Hyper Hop-up kit (1)
          + Hyper Hop-up kit (2)
          + Lazzy Legs X-treme Pro Hop-up kit
          + Lazzy Legs Speed Demons Hop-up kit
          + Cyko HurricanZ hop-up kit
          + J&J Titan aluminium rocker inserts
     * Bearings
          + GMN ABEC-3 bearings
          + YAK ABEC-3 bearings
          + Black Hole Rocks bearings
          + Powell Swiss "Bones" ABEC-1 bearings
     * Wheels
          + Cyko HurricanZ 72mm 82Awheels
          + Kryptonics VR series wheel
          + Kryptonics PowerPlay hockey wheel
          + Kryptonics Rampage wheel
          + FR Progressors
     * Miscellaneous products
          + CDS boot grind plates (2 reviews)
          + Lazzy Legs grind plate
          + Lazzy Legs heel straps (2 reviews)
          + Rollerblade Powerstrap
          + Jofa Speed Puck
          + Paragon Bearing Guards
          + The Grip cable braking system
     * Protective gear
          + Bell Image helmet
          + Rollerblade protective pads (knee, elbow, wrist)
          + Rector Fat Boys kneepads
          + Bones Bone Guardz (wrist guards)
     * Skates
          + Rollerblade Lightning TRS
          + Roller Derby BX-5000
          + Bauer XS-5's
          + Bauer H3's
          + CCM RH555 Tacks
          + Rollerblade Racerblades
          + Rollerblade Coolblades
          + Rollerblade Macroblade EQs
          + Rollerblade Aeroblade ABT
          + UltrawWheels Zephyr/Neon
          + K2 Extreme Workout skates
     * Shops
          + Don Thomas Sporthaus (Detroit, MI)
          + The Skate Shop: (Youngstown, OH)
          + Millennium In-Line (mail-order)
          + Team Paradise (mail-order)
          + Hudson Bay Inline (mail-order)
          + Inline USA (mail-order)
     * Older reviews
          + K2 skate(s)
        Performance skates
        Ultra Wheels
        Metroblades
        Rollerblade Aeroblade (pre ABT model)
        Racing skates
        Bauer Xr10's


     _________________________________________________________________

  HOP UP KITS

From: William Bradley ([e-mail])
Date: Tue, 3 May 1994 13:23:53 -0400

NOTE: you'll need to calculate the purchase date from the mail date (May 3)

1)   Review by: William Bradley ([e-mail])
2)   Product type:  Accessory (hop-up kit)
3)   Brandname:  Hyper
4)   Model name/number:  "Hyper Hop-Up Kit"
5)   Purchase price:  $20
6)   From local store or mail order:  Local sports chain
7)   Purchase date:
8)   How long have you used it:  1 year +
9)   Pros:    o Aluminum spacers *do* have internal hex hole for axle removal
              o Includes two slightly longer axles to account for
                brake mounting (Rollerblade, for example)
              o Each axle has a loctite patch for safety
              o Kit also includes washers, if you need them
10)   Cons:    o Aluminum spacers...supposedly these deform easier
                during extreme skating (I wouldn't know)
              o Loctite...no star washers, if that's your bag...
11)   Additional comments:  I've had no problems with these
12)  My personal rating:  9


 1. Review by: Jim Kiraly ([e-mail])
 2. Product type: Axle Kit
 3. Brandname: Hyper
 4. Model name/number: Hyper Hop up kit.
 5. Purchase price: $25
 6. From local store or mail order: ISA (Mail order)
 7. Date purchased: June 13, 1994
 8. How long have you used it: Since June 13, 1994
 9. Pros:
   - Comes with:
       8  Red aluminun threaded spacers w/ hex lock.
       16 Regular length, small headed axel bolts.
       16 Washers
       2  Brake wheel length small headed axel bolts.
       2  Hex tools.
 10. Cons: None to report.
 11. Additional comments:  I would recommend these over the Lazzy
     Legs Speed Demons.
 12. My personal rating: 9


 1. Review by: Scott Weintraub ([e-mail])
 2. Product type: hop-up kit (accessory)
 3. Brandname: Lazzy Legs
 4. Model name/number: X-treme Pro
 5. Purchase price: $25.90 for 8 wheels.
 6. From local store or mail order: mail-order, don't recall where though.
 7. Date purchased: 3/94
 8. How long have you used it: 5 months.
 9. Pros: Made of steel.  Most hop-up kits are made of aluminum.  Steel
                is a lot more durable.
 10. Cons: Steel is a little heavier than aluminum but the weight
                difference isn't even noticable so I wouldn't worry about it.
 11. Additional comments: If you're looking to upgrade your skates, a
        hop-up kit is probably the best place to start.  You will certainly
        see a speed increase, it will cost you a little over twenty bucks,
        and it's a one-time cost.  Once you install it, you won't have to
        worry about it again.  The Lazzy Legs X-treme Pro is the Cadillac of
        hop-up kits.
 12. My personal rating: 10


 1. Review by:  Jim Kiraly ([e-mail])
 2. Product type: Axle Kit
 3. Brandname: Lazzy Legs
 4. Model name/number: Speed Demons
 5. Purchase price: $21
 6. From local store or mail order:  Play it again sports. (Local store)
 7. Date purchased: May 24, 1994
 8. How long have you used it: 1-1/2 Months
 9. Pros: Comes with:
       8  Aluminum threaded bearing spaces with hex locks.
       16 Normal length small headed axel bolts
       2  Brake wheel lenght small headed axel bolts.
       1  Hex tool
 10. Cons: Easy to strip the threaded spacers.  The axel bolts would actually
     loosen up and fall out during normal skating sessions.
 11. Additional comments: I was not impressed with these.  All three sets that
myself and friends
     have owned have had the bolt loosening problem.
 12. My personal rating: 3

----------

1)   Review by: [e-mail] (Martin Sripan)
2)   Product type: Accessory-Axle Hop Up Kit
3)   Company: Cyko
4)   Model name/number: HurricanZ
5)   Purchase price: $20.00
6)   From: Millennium In-line
7)   Length of use: 4 months; 1993, Discontinued
8)   Size: 8 Wheel set
9)   Pros:*Aluminum-speedy
          *Threaded
          *Hex lock
          *Comes with instructions-really no need
10)   Cons:*No frame spacers
          *Aluminum-bad for extreme
          *Threads are lost after time
          *Bolts too big-huge profile
          *Bolts slide like CDS Detroit Grind Plates, but in this case, it is
           a disadvantage-gives new meaning to power slide
          *Bolts get scuffed and flattened easily
          *No tools provided, though a Torx T25 helps, as I prefer handled hex
           wrenches over hex keys
          *Brake bolts aren't big enough for my brake
11)  Additional comments: The guy who sold me these practically forced me into
     these over the Blading Edge-should've bought the Hyper, it sounds/looks
     good
12)  My personal rating: 3-better than plastic, seems like any other, but
     Roces, Hyper, Mogema, Sure Grip, and other race frames are better

-----

 1. Review by: Scott Weintraub ([e-mail])
 2. Product type: aluminum rockers (accessory)
 3. Brandname: J&J Titan
 4. Model name/number: Aluminum Rockers
 5. Purchase price: $20 for all 8 wheels (16 rockers)
 6. From local store or mail order: some mail-order house.
 7. Date purchased: 6/94
 8. How long have you used it: 2 months.
 9. Pros: Aluminum rockers won't crack or warp like plastic ones will.
          They may increase your speed a little, especially if you
                have plastic ones that are already broken or warped because
                they touch the bearing more preciley and won't rub up against
                it.
 10. Cons: $20 is a little expensive for 16 little pieces of aluminum but
                they're pretty much the only place that I could find that
                makes these things.
 11. Additional comments: I'm not sure what skates these things fit.  I'm
        pretty sure they're made for the Rollerblade line.  I know Roces makes
        their own aluminum rockers, specifically for their skates.  I would
        recommend consulting your dealer to make sure that they'll fit on your
        skates.
 12. My personal rating: 9


     _________________________________________________________________

  BEARINGS

 1. Review by: Scott Weintraub ([e-mail])
 2. Product type: bearing
 3. Brandname: GMN
 4. Model name/number: ABEC-3, greased, tin-shielded
 5. Purchase price: $1.25/bearing
 6. From local store or mail order: Some mail-order place.
 7. Date purchased: 6/94
 8. How long have you used it: 2 months
 9. Pros: Very inexpensive.
 10. Cons: Shields aren't removable so you have to pry them open to clean
           them.
           They pretty much felt like my old ABEC-1s to me.
 11. Additional comments: I bought these because they were inexpensive
        but I'm sorry I did.  They didn't do much for me.  If I could go
        back, I would have probably spent a little extra money on a better
        set of bearings.  If you're looking for a cheap set of bearings
        to replace a set of ABEC-1s and aren't really looking for a speed
        improvement then these will suit you fine.
 12. My personal rating: 4

---------

1)   Review by: William Bradley ([e-mail])
2)   Product type:  Bearing
3)   Brandname:  YAK
4)   Model name/number:  YAK ABEC-3
5)   Purchase price:  $2 per (normally)  $1 per (on sale)
6)   From local store or mail order:  Inline USA
7)   Purchase date:
8)   How long have you used it:  3 months

9)   Pros:    o Removable Shields
              o Very nice bearing, no wobble, blah blah blah
10)   Cons:    o Greased (you might be able to order oiled sets)
              o Having to listen to "DA YAKMAN" rant about them  :-)
11)   Additional comments:
        Some people gripe that these aren't much better than ABEC-1s.
        I noticed a marked difference, though.
12)  My personal rating:  7

----------

1. Review by: Rob Remus ([e-mail])
2. Product type: Bearings
3. Brandname: Black Hole
4. Model name/number: Rocks
5. Purchase price: $21.95 for 16
6. From local store or mail order: Wildcountry in Normal, IL.  (No joke, the
      name of the town is Normal.)
7. Date purchased: Sometime in April '94
8. How long have you used it: About 3 months
9. Pros: (list good features) The bearings are faster (better) than the ones
      that came in my Macro EQ's.  That however is the only thing about them
      that is better.
10. Cons: The bearings get dirty VERY quickly.  The bearings came lubed with
       grease and within one day of skating they were dirty enough to start
       making noise.  I then replaced the grease with oil, which made them even
       worse.
11. Additional comments: Spend a little more money and get some good
       bearings.
12. My personal rating: 5

----------

 1. Review by: Tony Chen ([e-mail])
 2. Product type:  bearings
 3. Brandname: Powell Swiss "Bones" bearings
 4. Model name/number: ABEC-1's
 5. Purchase price: $2/bearing
 6. From local store or mail order: Skates Off Haight (mail-order)
 7. Date purchased:  Fall 1991
 8. How long have you used it:  3 years (review dated: Nov 12, 1994)
 9. Pros: For a long time the Bones bearings were rumored to be ABEC-5
          quality, but in the end the company said they were only
          ABEC-1's. Doesn't matter. These bearings spin like crazy. They
          are one-sided bearings, with only a plastic snap-cage to
          secure the ball bearings.  The ones I ordered were in sets of
          8 and came with a small plastic pouch of Bones speed cream.

          In an extreme case of laziness and negligence, up until
          last week I had only relubed 2 out of the 16 since I first
          bought them 3 years ago.  My main laziness stemmed from the
          fact that they still spun like crazy, and still sounded clean.
          I have since cleaned and relubed all of them, out of guilt 8-)
          but they're all in amazing shape still.

          I even had 2 of them sitting around for a long time (about 1
          year) because I've been trying out other bearings.  These
          bearings got pretty crusty, either with a tad bit of rust,
          or really gunked up residue from lubes and dirt, or combo of
          all of the above.  Anyway, as a lark, I tossed 'em to be
          cleaned with the other bearings (Bones and others) that I was
          relubing.  Lo and behold.  Sparkling clean, super-spinning
          bearings again.  They spin better than my Yak ABEC-3's which
          are fairly new, lemme tell you.

          I bought the Yaks for my Bont racing setup, but now I think
          I'm switching to all Bones (plus 4 Yaks, since I only have 16
          Bones at the moment.).

          In terms of maintanence, the Bones are very easy to clean and
          handle because they have only two parts:  the bearing and the
          snap-cage.  With most of the two-sided bearings (like Yaks,
          TwinCams, etc.) you have to pry off the C-ring on each side
          and you end up with 2 rings, 2 shields, and the bearing.

          Also, when you take the snap-ring off, the balls inside aren't
          constrained by a brace of any kind, so you can really clean
          out the whole inside pretty well.  This also means you can
          apply your lube easily as well, since the balls are in full
          view.

          Putting the snap-cage usually takes longer than putting a
          C-ring and shield back on (on the other bearings), but it's
          still pretty simple for the most part.

          In any case, I have noticed ABEC-5 rated Bones for sale in
          some mail-order places now.  1 or 5, I don't think you can
          go wrong with Bones bearings.

 10. Cons: Nada.  They're more expensive than most bearings, but you
           definitely get more than what you pay for.
 11. Additional comments:  (See Pros section)
 12. My personal rating: 10 (compared to NMBs, Yak/TwinCam ABEC-3s)



     _________________________________________________________________

  WHEELS

1)   Review by: [e-mail] (Martin Sripan)
2)   Product type: Accessory-Wheels
3)   Company: Cyko
4)   Model name: HurricanZ
     Model year: 1993; Discontinued
5)   Purchase price: $20. for 8-$2.5 each (on MI-L sale), usually $40. for 8
6)   From: Millennium In-Line
7)   Length of use: 2 days-sold them-not hard to review them though.
8)   Size, Hardness, Radius: 72mm, 82A-Flat 22
9)   Pros:*Reinforced fan-blade core makes it fast and light-hard wheel-
           nice wear, nice cooling
          *Black color is nice, no prints or other obstructive stuff
10)   Cons:*Real bad on hard surfaces and on any extreme skates
           *Dull wheel-no laminated gloss surface (tread, sidewall)
11)  Additional comments: In my opinion, it's just like any other wheel
                          but it's fast and cool.
12)  My personal rating: 5-Not good, not bad

-------

 1. Review by: Jim Kiraly ([e-mail])
 2. Product type: Wheels
 3. Brandname: Kryptonics
 4. Model name/number: VR Series 72mm/78A Narrow radius, tri spoke core.
 5. Purchase price: ~$40
 6. From local store or mail order: Play it Again Sports (Local store)
 7. Date purchased: June 28, 1994
 8. How long have you used it: Since June 28, 1994
 9. Pros: Nice wheel, with decent wear.  Hub fits the bearings tightly.
 10. Cons: Not made for quick turns.
 11. Additional comments: I don't have a lot to say about these wheels,
     because the narrow radius isn't very useful for the kind of skating I do.
 12. My personal rating:  8

-----

 1. Review by: Jim Kiraly ([e-mail])
 2. Product type: Wheel
 3. Brandname: Kryptonics
 4. Model name/number: PowerPlay 72mm/82A w/ Krypto hockey radius, tri spoke co
re.
 5. Purchase price: Came stock with skates (CCM RH555 Tacks).
 6. From local store or mail order: Tam-O-Shanter, Sylvania Ohio (Local Store)
 7. Date purchased: July 31, 1994
 8. How long have you used it: Since July 31, 1994
 9. Pros: Nice even wear, even with heavy usage.  Great stability at high speed
s.
     Can really hold tight turns, I have yet to have them slip out on me
     while turning.
 10. Cons: None to report
 11. Additional comments: My favorite wheel by far.
 12. My personal rating:  9-1/2

 1. Review by:  Jim Kiraly ([e-mail])
 2. Product type:  Wheels
 3. Brandname: Kryptonics
 4. Model name/number: 72mm/82A Rampage Full Radius, tri spoke core.
 5. Purchase price: $32 for 8
 6. From local store or mail order: ISA (Mail order)
 7. Date purchased: June 13, 1994
 8. How long have you used it: Since June 13, 1994
 9. Pros: Nice wide radius, nice for turning and such.  Good even wear (with
     proper rotation).
 10. Cons: Hubs do not have a nice tight fit around the bearings, which causes
     the wheels to wobble from time to time.
 11. Additional comments: These are good wheels, I am not sure if the bearing
     problem above is a problem with just my set or found with all Rampages.
 12. My personal rating: 8.5

-----

 1. Review by: Scott Weintraub ([e-mail])
 2. Product type: wheel
 3. Brandname: FR Progressors
 4. Model name/number: 60mm/88A
 5. Purchase price: $7/wheel
 6. From local store or mail order: mail-order (don't recall where)
 7. Date purchased: 7/94
 8. How long have you used it: one month.
 9. Pros: Nice size/hardness for street skating.
          Solid core.
 10. Cons: Difficult to find.
           I expected them to be a little flatter on the bottom (a la
                Hyper Midgets) but they were shaped a lot like your generic
                wheel, only smaller.
 11. Additional comments: For 88A, they seem to be a little soft.  It
        seems that Hyper's version of an 88A wheel is harder.  And for a
        little tidbit:  I've heard that FR stands for "Fuck Rollerblade".
 12. My personal rating: 8



     _________________________________________________________________

  MISCELLANEOUS

1)   Review by: [e-mail] (Martin Sripan)
2)   Product type: Accessory-Boot grind plates
3)   Company: CDS Detroit
4)   Model name/number: Boot grind plates,  Size: 4 plates, 1x3 inches
5)   Purchase price: $9.99 or so for a set of 4, bought 1 set
6)   From: Millennium In-Line, sold many places
7)   Purchase date:
8)   Length of use: 2 weeks, then got kinda sick of it, and one plate fell off
                    -just starting to use them the right way now
9)   Pros:*Great if you can get it to work-helps with power stops, other boot
           grinding maneuvers
          *Very versatile-use for other stuff
10)   Cons:*Hard to attach velcro lanyards, for me at least
11)  Additional comments: Works better on CLEAN surfaces; unscathed ones
     recommended. All CDS products are probably good when used correctly,
     but I didn't really need the boot plates-my boot was screwed from the
     start. It works best on boots of the leather type probably.
12)  My personal rating: 3 if you don't apply correctly, 10 if you do


 1. Review by: Scott Weintraub ([e-mail])
 2. Product type: Grind plate (accessory)
 3. Brandname: CDS Detroit
 4. Model name/number: Street Line Frame Grind Plates
 5. Purchase price: $5.99 for two.
 6. From local store or mail order: some mail-order house.
 7. Date purchased: 6/94
 8. How long have you used it: 10 minutes.
 9. Pros: They're made of plastic and plastic slides a lot better than
                steel does because there's a lot less friction.
          Inexpensive.
 10. Cons: When I power-slide, I slide on the grind plate because it
                sticks out so much and since it's so smooth, I keep on
                sliding.  Sometimes, I'll even do a split.
           When I cut sharp turns, I will sometimes hit the grind plate
                on the ground and since it's so smooth, my legs just slip out.
 11. Additional comments: They are a good idea.  They'll protect your
        frame and they'll slide better than any metal grind plate could ever
        dream.  But I just couldn't sacrifice maneuverability and power-slides
        for it.
 12. My personal rating: 5

-----

 1. Review by: Scott Weintraub ([e-mail])
 2. Product type: Grind plate (accessory)
 3. Brandname: Lazzy Legs
 4. Model name/number: Steel Bridge Grind Plate
 5. Purchase price: about $20
 6. From local store or mail order: random mail-order house.
 7. Date purchased: 6/94
 8. How long have you used it: 2 months.
 9. Pros: It's made of steel so it's strong.
          It's thick so it will last a while.
 10. Cons: The largest wheel size you will be able to fit on a skate with
        a bridge grind plate is around 65mm.
 11. Additional comments: If you put a steel grind plate on your skate,
        it will slide nicely on metal but grinding a curb is a little more
        difficult because there's a lot of friction.  There are many different
        ways you can outfit your skate for grinding.  With this plate, you can
        skate with all small wheels or you can skate anti-rocker.  I still
        haven't discovered the perfect grinding combo.
 12. My personal rating: 8

-----

1)   Review by: [e-mail] (Martin Sripan)
2)   Product type: Accessory-Heel tighteners
3)   Company: Lazzy Legs
4)   Model name/number: Heel tighteners
5)   Purchase price: 12.99
6)   From: Performance Bicycle-they don't sell it anymore, but many MO shops
          have them
7)   Length of use: a month, until I came to my senses and thought "Why did
                    I buy this?" Started using it again.
8)   Size: standard, 2 to a set
9)   Pros:*Great for: reducing road vibration at high speeds
          *Reducing heel lift due to weak instep area
          *Tightening boot fit
          *Protecting side of boot from crash-not intended use though
10)   Cons:*Mainly useless on unflexible boots such as plastics
11)  Additional comments: It seems to be more intended for racing, to prevent
                          heel lift, but for some reason I look in Inline
                          magazine issues, and many extreme skaters are wearing
                          it.
12)  My personal rating:8-nothing else to compare to.

 1. Review by: Scott Weintraub ([e-mail])
 2. Product type: arch and ankle tighteners (accessory)
 3. Brandname: Lazzy Legs
 4. Model name/number: Arch and Ankle Tighteners
 5. Purchase price: $20 (can be had for less)
 6. From local store or mail order: Blades in Manhattan.
 7. Date purchased: 6/94
 8. How long have you used it: 2 months.
 9. Pros: They really give you a lot more support.
          Nice price.
          Durable.
 10. Cons: None.
 11. Additional comments: These aren't really meant to tighten your boot
        more around your foot.  They're meant to hold your foot in place.
        The arch tighteners can be used as a replacement for laces but I
        would recommend leaving your laces on.
 12. My personal rating: 10

-----

 1. Review by: Scott Weintraub ([e-mail])
 2. Product type: Heel tightener (accessory)
 3. Brandname: Rollerblade, Inc.
 4. Model name/number: Power-strap
 5. Purchase price: $8
 6. From local store or mail order: Herman's Sporting Goods
 7. Date purchased: 12/93
 8. How long have you used it: 8 months.
 9. Pros: Give you a lot of support.
          Inexpensive.
          Very durable.
 10. Cons: None.
 11. Additional comments: They come with a little patch of velcro that
        you are supposed to attach to the heel of your skate.  When you put
        them on, a piece of velcro on the heel strap sticks to that to help
        it stay secure, under your heel.  I just thought that was a nifty
        idea so I mentioned it.  I used a hot glue gun to keep that little
        patch on.  The Lazzy Legs heel straps look a little thicker and they
        look like they might be a little more secure so you might want to
        check those out before purchasing these.  But, on the other hand,
        for $8, you can't really go wrong.
 12. My personal rating: 8

-----
 1. Review by:  Jim Kiraly ([e-mail])
 2. Product type: Hockey Puck
 3. Brandname: Jofa
 4. Model name/number: Jofa ISD Speed Puck
 5. Purchase price: $10.95
 6. From local store or mail order: Tam-O-Shanter, Sylvania Ohio (Local Store)
 7. Date purchased: August 7, 1994
 8. How long have you used it: Since August 7, 1994
 9. Pros: Puck comes installed with 12 (6 per side) nylon runners for textured
     surfaces.  Also includes 12 runners for smooth surfaces.  I have only
     tried the puck on parking lot type surfaces, were it works really
     well.  Feels like puck, handles like a puck, etc...
 10. Cons: It doesn't get on the edge too often, but when it does, it doesn't
     like to lay back down.  The runners are not easy to remove.
 11. Additional comments: The puck is wieghted around the edges and is spoked
     in the center, it is completely made of rubber with the exception of the
     runners.  This is the puck used by the RHI.
 12. My personal rating:  9

-----

 1. Review by:  ([e-mail])
 2. Product type: wheel/bearing accessory (bearing guards)
 3. Brandname: Paragon
 4. Model name/number: bearing guards
 5. Purchase price:  $4.99 for 20 guards
 6. From local store or mail order: Paragon Products, Inc.
    690 Industrial Circle S., Shakopee, MN 55379 [phone]
 7. Date purchased:  March 25, 1994
 8. How long have you used it:  (used it only for one month)
 9. Pros: They DO keep the grit out and off of your bearings, and
          they're plenty cheap.
 10. Cons: The price for keeping the grit out is that you increase
           rolling resistance by a very substantial factor.
 11. Additional comments: The guards do their job well, but the way the
                          work requires that they rub slightly against
                          the wheel hub.  This makes for very, very
                          slow skating, compared to w/out them.
 12. My personal rating: 8, if you don't mind the large rolling friction
                         caused.  A rating of 1 if you do! 8-)

-----
From: [e-mail] (Matt Hicks)
Date: 12 May 94 16:20:40 GMT

Thomas A. Creedon  writes:
>Does any inline skater out there have any experience with or information
>about a hand held hydrolic braking device for inline skates?  I beleive
>the device is called The Grip.  I saw it demonstrated on that "Why
>Didn't I Think Of That" invention TV show with Wil Shriner as the host.
>It was my understanding that it was just about ready to go to market.
>I'd be interested in the price, purchase source and any other
>information you may have.

I meant to post this a long time ago.  The Grip has been around for about a
year. It was invented (and I believe it is manufactured) by a company here
in Boulder. My opinion: Don't bother. I tried these things out at a demo
last year. Yes, they do stop you. Are they quicker than heal brakes? Maybe,
slightly. Are they clunky, annoying, cumbersome, and generally inconvenient?
You betcha.

The brake works like this: You have a handle in each hand (kind of like
those Dymo label makers that use the adhesive tape). Each handle has a cable
running down the back of your leg, secured about half way down by a velcro
strap. The cable runs through a couple of guides mounted on your skate's
frame and running almost it's entire length (on the outside of your skate).
When you squeeze the handles (you pretty much have to use them both at the
same time) a couple of pieces of "automobile brake material" are pressed
into the inside of the hubs of their specially produced wheels. (Are you
starting to see how this setup could be a pain in the ass yet?)

The problems with this setup:

1. Your arms and legs move away from each other on each side. Having your
   hand and foot connected by a cable sort of limits your stride length/arm
   swing, unless...

2. You've got a lot of cable. Well you don't really (see problem 1) but it's
   enough to be a hassle.

3. The hardware runs along the bottom of the frame. I pointed out to the guy
   who was demoing (one of the company partners) that I kept scraping the
   hardware against the ground when I tried to do crossovers. "Oh, that's
   okay," he said, "That's why we made it out of metal, so it would stand up
   to that." "But, you don't seem to understand," I replied, "when I'm
   leaned over into a turn with my legs crossed, I want nice grippy polyure-
   thane in contact with the ground, not hard, slippery metal." "Whatever,"
   he said.

4. You still have to adopt the one-foot-forward braking position or you'll
   get dumped on your head. Having the braking force originate at your
   wheels leaves your feet stopped and the much greater mass of your body
   still in motion.

5. You _have_ to use their wheels and those wheels have to go in the two
   middle slots, so your rotation pattern is completely screwed.

6. ~$80; more in some outlets. And replacing 4 wheels is definitely going to
   cost more than replacing one brake pad.

7-10. I'm sure someone can think of drawbacks to fill these slots; I
   probably could if I spent a few more minutes.

Good points?

1. Keeps all your wheels on the ground.

2. Probably lasts longer than a brake pad.

3. Technoweenie bonus points.

This product was much hyped locally. I thought it had dubious merits before
I tried it, and found much more to dislike after trying it. My advice is to
stay away.




     _________________________________________________________________

Protective Gear Reviews


1)   Review by: William Bradley ([e-mail])
2)   Product type:  Safety gear (helmet)
3)   Brandname:  Bell
4)   Model name/number:  Image
5)   Purchase price:  $80 (normally)  $40 (on sale)
6)   From local store or mail order:  Bike Nashbar
7)   Purchase date:
8)   How long have you used it:  2 months
7)   Pros:    o Well-vented
              o Light (sub-8 oz.)
              o Easy to fit (adjustable pads/straps)
              o Microshell (compromise between hardshell and foam)
8)   Cons:      (none, really)
9)   Additional comments:  **insert typical helmet rant here**  :-)
10)  My personal rating:  8

----------

1)   Review by: William Bradley ([e-mail])
2)   Product type:  Safety gear
3)   Brandname:  Rollerblade
4)   Model name/number:  Standard Pads (knee/elbow/wrist)
5)   Purchase price:  $15-$25 per set
6)   From local store or mail order:  Local sports store
7)   Purchase date:
8)   How long have you used it:  1 year +
9)   Pros:    o They work very well
              o Wrist guards have velcro pocket near right thumb
10)   Cons:    o They're somewhat bulky, sometimes get in the way
              o Velcro pocket won't hold car key
11)   Additional comments:  **insert typical pad rant here**  :-)
12)  My personal rating:  6

----------

 1. Review by: Scott Weintraub ([e-mail])
 2. Product type: knee pads (safety gear)
 3. Brandname: Rector
 4. Model name/number: Fat Boys
 5. Purchase price: about $50
 6. From local store or mail order: Skates Off Haight (I think)
 7. Date purchased: 4/94
 8. How long have you used it: 4 months
 9. Pros: Nice and big with about an inch of padding between the plate
                and your knee.  Your knees will survive any fall.
          Instead of a tube, it has four thick straps.  These straps work
                as well (perhaps better) than any tube and you don't have to
                take off your sneakers or skates to get them off.
          Cheaper than Boneless Knee Pads.
          When you fall, the plates are made to slide across the ground
                instead of sticking.  I found that some pads like the
                standard ones that Rollerblade, Inc. makes stick to the
                ground when you fall so all that momentum you have forces
                you to roll on the ground.  With these pads, when you hit
                the ground, you just slide on your knees for a few feet
                instead of rolling.  Does that make sense?
          Goes well with any wardrobe.
 10. Cons: You may find that your knees don't bend as well as they might
           with a smaller knee pad but as far as "extreme" pads go, these
           are the least cumbersome.  You'll get used to them very quickly.
 11. Additional comments: None.
 12. My personal rating: 10

--------

1)   Review by: William Bradley ([e-mail])
2)   Product type:  Safety gear (wrist guards)
3)   Brandname:  Bones (???)
4)   Model name/number:  Bone Guardz
5)   Purchase price:  $12
6)   From local store or mail order:  Local bike shop
7)   Purchase date:
8)   How long have you used it:  1 month +

9)   Pros:    o Comparable to most every wrist guard in existence
10)   Cons:    o Somewhat smaller than the rest, though
              o No velcro pocket to not hold your car key  :-)
11)   Additional comments:  Well, my wife likes them
12)  My personal rating:  6



     _________________________________________________________________

New skate reviews



 1. Review by: Scott Weintraub ([e-mail])
 2. Product type: skate
 3. Brandname: Rollerblade, Inc.
 4. Model name/number: Lightning TRS
 5. Purchase price: $180 (can be found for less: $150-$170)
 6. From local store or mail order: Herman's Sporting Goods.  They agreed
        to match the price of any local skate shop.  I don't believe they carry
        this skate anymore though.
 7. Date purchased: 11/93
 8. How long have you used it: 9 months
 9. Pros: Incredibly durable.
          Most accesseries are made to fit it.
          Priced nicely.
          Great for almost any kind of skating:  street, vert, hockey,
                recreation/fitness, transportation, etc.
 10. Cons: A little heavy, but not too heavy.
           Fits well, but not as well as some of the other skates on the
                market.
           Kinda ugly.
           A friend of mine owns a pair of '94s and I noticed that the
                plastic between the wheels is a little thinner.  Looks like
                Rollerblade, Inc. cut back a little bit.
 11. Additional comments: The Lightning TRS comes with rather low-grade
        components (ABEC-1 bearings, plastic rockers, no hop-up kit) but
        you're really paying for the durable boot and frame.  The bearings,
        axels, and rockers can all be easily upgraded.  So, if you put a
        little more money into them, they can potentially be one of the best
        skates out there.  If you want to get into street or vert skating,
        this skate has pretty much become the industry standard (Although
        two new skates, the Tarmac CE from Rollerblade and the Moscow Ramp
        from Roces, might change that).  If you want to get into hockey, this
        is a fantastic, low-budget skate to look into.  It sure can take a
        beating.
 12. My personal rating: For street/vert: 9
                         For hockey: 8
                         For recreation/fitness/transportation: 7


1)  Review by: Ana & Rick Langlois  [ [e-mail] ]
2)  Product type:        In-line Skates
3)  Brandname:           Roller Derby
4)  Model name/number:   BX 5000
5)  Purchase price:      $149.00 + tax, (U.S.)
6)  From local store:    MC Mages Sporting goods store.
                                 (13 Chicago area locations).
7)  Date purchased:      March, 1994

8)  How long have
    you used them:       12 weeks.

9)  Pros:                Comfortable fit, quality construction and components.
                         Large brake, good styling, fast, GREAT price.

10)  Cons:              Boot shell not hinged.  Some may not like the black
                        w/pink color scheme.

11) Additional comments: Very, very good skate for the price.

12) My personal rating
    1 to 10 (10 = best): * 9 *

Product Description:
          Shell: One piece, ventilated, 'BASF Elastollan' polyurethane.
                   Front entry, 3 buckles (screwed on; not riveted).
                   High gloss black finish w/flat black "scuff areas".
                   Removeable insole.

          Liner: Foam interior (single or dual density?) w/ removable
                 insole.  Ballistic nylon lower, vinyl cuff and bottom.

          Frame: Bolt-on (2 bolts; 1 heel, 1 toe) 'DuPont Zytel' nylon resin
                 in two halves.

         Wheels: 80mm 78a Team Labeda MDI Race Series.

       Bearings: SKF brand, ABEC-3 (made in ITALY).

  Axles/Spacers: 2 piece, steel axles (bolts) w/Allen heads on both ends.
                 Can not be over tightened.  Steel spacer between bearings,
                 plastic bushings on the outside and through the bearings.
                 Wheel 2 & 3 rockerable via replaceable spacers (supplied).

                   (see diagram)



                                                        *BOOT*
       \           ______                                              /
        \          \____/  <  Screw                                   /
         \        \_|__|_/ < "Washer"                                /
          \_________|__|____________________________________________/

                {   |__|   }
                 {        }                          (other frame-)
                  {frame }                            rail & rockering
                   {    }                             spacer omitted)
 __                {    }                                           __
|  |               {    }[] ______                     ______ []   |  |
|  |               {    }[]|      |    ___________    |      |[]   |  |
|  |___          []{----}[]-------|_ _|__ _ _ _ __|_ _|------|[]_ _|  |
|      ///////// []{    }[]|      |   |           |   |      |[]      |
|   ___///////// []{    }[]|      |_ _|__ _ _ _ __|_ _|      |[]_ _   |
|  |             []{----}[]-------|   |___________|   |------|[]   |  |
|  |             []{    }[]|______|                 ^ |______|[]   |  |
|__|               {    }[]                ^        ^         []   |__|
     ^             {____}      ^           ^        ^    ^
 Allen head      ^        ^  Bearing    Steel       ^ Bearing ^      ^
 Bolt            ^   ^    ^             Spacer   Through      ^  Through
                 ^ Frame  ^                       Bolt        ^   Bolt
                 ^       Plastic                            Plastic
             Plastic     Bushing                            Bushing
             Rockering
                 Spacer


1)   Review by: amy ([e-mail])
2)   Product type:    Skates
3)   Brandname:       Bauer
4)   Model name/number:   XS5's.  (street skates)
5)   Purchase price:      $129.99 first new pair
                          $ 30.00 second used pair
                                  (before getting your hopes up.. everything
                                  on these skates were shot except the boots
                                  and laces)
6)   From local store or mail order:    Johnston's Sporting Goods
                                        University Ave
                                        downtown Champaign IL

                                        Pelican Ski and Pool Shop
                                        Route 22
                                        East Brunswick NJ
7)   Date purchased:     July 1993, July 1994
8)   How long have you used it:   Just over a year (except snow)
9)   Pros:  made in small sizes** in the 1993 line
            decent wheels (hypers 72mm 78A dur.)
            rockerability (3 wheel model.. front and back move
                horizontally, middle goes up and down)
            brake foot is swappable for lefties and righties
            comes with 72 mm wheel, can hold upto 76 mm
                with the rockers adjusted
10)   Cons:  1994 line doesn't come in very small sizes
            NMB bearings.. not exactly quick
            slow skates.
            all laces
            new bauer brakes wear out easily

11)  Additional comments:  I added a top buckle for ~$25 dollars.
                           this was a tremendous improvement on the skate.
                           I also added a hopup kit, speed increase was
                           incredible
                           the smaller sizes (atleast < 4) have 3 wheels

*** I purchased a second pair of these skates because the chassis
of the first pair cracked by the front wheel.  Although, the first skates
broke, I still feel confident in Bauer and bought an identical pair.
I am sending the first pair in to be looked at by Bauer.  They said
they may be able to replace the broken chassis.  If you are buying ANY
skates, please look carefully at the chassis before purchasing it.
Remember you need a stronger chassis for grinds, slides and jumps
than you do for casual skating. My rating for these skates hasn't changed
because of this problem.

12)  My personal rating:  1 to 10        8 for regular skates
                                         9 for small feeted persons

 1. Review by: Jim Kiraly ([e-mail])
 2. Product type: Skate
 3. Brandname: Bauer
 4. Model name/number: H3 (Hockey 3)
 5. Purchase price: $149.99
 6. From local store or mail order: Play it Again Sports,
 7. Date purchased: April 29, 1994
 8. How long have you used it:  3-4 months
 9. Pros:
    - All laces, nice fitting boot, includes toe guards, rockerable chasis,
      solid feeling while skating, nice beginner skates (was for me anyhow).
      Stock equipment:
          Narrow radius, vented core, 72mm/78A wheels.
          ABEC-1 Bearings (China)
          Aluminum Threaded Spaces
          Big headed axel bolts.
          Bauer Super-Light Chasis
 10. Cons:
    - The stock wheels are narrow radius, and cheap.  The wheels started
      to seperate from the hubs after 2 months of everyday usage.  The
      wear on the wheels was ok.  The chasis is easily deformed by over
      tightening of the axels, and the bearing spacers fit too tightly
      into the bearings, to the point that they are hard (or in two cases
      impossible) to seperate.  The chasis only accepts 72mm wheels.

 11. Additional comments:
    - Other than the problems with the frame and the stock equipment I
      really like this skate.  I used these to learn how to skate in,
      so thy have taken quite a bit of punishment from falling and such,
      but have held up well.  I would recommend these to someone looking
      for an all-purpose mid-range skate.  Look to upgrade the wheels
      and axels sooner than later.

 12. My personal rating: 7


 1. Review by: Jim Kiraly ([e-mail])
 2. Product type: Skate
 3. Brandname:CCM
 4. Model name/number: RH555 Tacks
 5. Purchase price: $260
 6. From local store or mail order: Tam-O-Shanter, Sylvania Ohio (Local Store)
 7. Date purchased: July 31, 1994
 8. How long have you used it: Since July 31, 1994
 9. Pros:  Reebok Insta-Pump, provides a nice firm fit around the ankle.
    All lace.
     Stock Equipment:
         Kryptonics Tri-Spoked core, 72mm/82A Powerplay Wheels
         German GMN ABEC-3 bearings
         Non-threaded aluminum spacers.
         Small headed axel bolts.
         Aluminum frame spacers.
         Slightly rockered frame nylon/glass-reinforced frame.
     The frame is easily removable for easy maintanence.
     Frames will take 82mm wheels.

 10. Cons: Axle holes in the frame will not allow for axel kits such as the
     Hyper Hop Up Kit to be used.  The frame is non-adjustable
     (rockered/unrockered).

 11. Additional comments:  I like these a lot.  I would recommend these skates
     for anyone looking into rec/hockey skates.

 12. My personal rating: 9.5


1) Review by: [e-mail] (William W. Thigpen - RC)
2)   Product type:  skate
3)   Brandname:  Rollerblade
4)   Model name/number:  Racerblade
5)   Purchase price:  Free
6)   From local store or mail order:  Rollerblade (Blade for Breath award)
7)   Date purchased:  Sometime around March of '93
8)   How long have you used it:  I skate between 50 and 200 miles/week year
     round

9)   Pros:  There are a number of things I like about this skate, however,
I've only had the TRS's to compare them against.  I like to commute on skates
(12.5 miles each way), so I need a skate that is comfortable and has good
speed to it.  From the first time I put on the Racerblades, I was able to go
several hours in them.  I upgraded the bearings to bones and upgraded the axle
system... before I used them the first time, so I can't speak to the off the
shelf quality of the running gear.  For me, the brake is an important feature
and it seems like most five wheel skates don't have that as an option.  I'm
still working on my form, so I'm not very competitive in races yet, however,
I did notice a significant differance on who I could keep up with on these
skates.  They hold a good line on downhill portions with no wobble. Overall, I
like these skates and would recommend them.

10)   Cons:  They are a little heavy, you can't change the position of the
frame, and they are a little high on the ankle

11)  Additional comments:  I think that this is a good entry level race skate,
however, I am already ancy  to upgrade to a different skate...I guess you
could say that 5000 miles is enough for any skate, however, my wife thinks
under two years is not long enough.

12)  My personal rating:  9.5

-----------------

1.  Review by:  Marianne Sedacki ([e-mail])
2.  Product type:  Skate
3.  Brandname:  Rollerblade
4.  Model name:  CoolBlade
5.  Purchase price:  $249 + tax
6.  Purchased from Sportmart in Orland Park, IL  Rte 45 (LaGrange Rd)
7.  Date purchased:  6-9-94
8.  How long have I used it?  Since June 9, 1994
9.  Pros:  3 buckles--good fit.  Vented boot--niice.  80A hardness on
    the wheels that came with--perfect hardness for me.  ABT brake easy
    for beginners, didn't feel like I was going to fall down when
    braking.  I like the fit...after I broke them in, that is.  The ABT
    brake is good for beginner's, altho many fellow skaters complain
    that the ABT is a money making gimmick--I've tried the regular brake
    and I prefer the ABT.  The vented boot is nice for those very warm
    days, altho it isn't as wonderful as walking in sandals!  :)
10. Cons:  The ABT brake sometimes gets in the way doing backwards
    cross-overs with the braking boot.  The ABT brake can be cumbersome
    when doing any maintenance on the wheels.
11. Additional comments:  Overall I'm quite happy with my investment.
12. Personal rating:  8.5

--------------

1)   Review by: [e-mail] (Timothy Chen)
2)   Product type: InLine Skate
3)   Brandname: RollerBlade
4)   Model name/number: Macroblade Equipes
5)   Purchase price: Something ridiculous like 220$ or something with
     a lifetime warranty on everything above the wheels (basically if
     straps/buckles break)

6)   From local store or mail order:    Nuvo Colors, San Mateo, CA

7)   Date purchased: June 19th, 1994
8)   How long have you used it: 'bout a year
9)   Pros:  Easy in, convenient carrying straps, easy out, high
     ankle support

10)   Cons:  High ankle support prevents you from doing high jumps...
     at least for me.  There are also kind of heavy, and cannot
     accelerate as quickly as other blades I've noticed.

11)  Additional comments:  Great Blades, love 'em.
12)  My personal rating:  1 to 10      -> 9.

--------

1) Review by: Robert Schmunk ([e-mail])
2) Product type: Skate
3) Brandname: Rollerblade
4) Model name/number: 1994 Aeroblade w/ABT
5) Purchase price: $299 - 10% NYRSA discount + 8.25% NYC sales tax
6) From local store or mail order: Local, Blades Second Ave., New York, NY.
7) Date purchased: Dec 29, 1994
8) How long have you used it: 1 month, avg 3 times per week
9) Pros:
  Compared to my 1993 Lightning TRSes, lighter in weight, vented,
  and holds larger wheels. All of this means that the Aeros are a
  *lot* faster, and even when I'm standing still, I almost feel
  like dancing around.
  The three-buckle system allows quicker entry and exit, handy
  during shopping or other intermittent non-skate activity. I now
  consider myself an advocate of buckles in the buckles-vs-laces
  argument, provided one is not engaged in radical skating activity
  which might destroy the buckles.
  The pump used to inflate the liner for a snugger fit around the
  heel seems fairly useful, although once I'm out on the road, I
  don't particularly notice whether I "pumped up" or not.
Cons:
  I removed the ABT brake before I took the skates out for the first
  time, so I can't comment on how (non)useful it might be. However, just
  trying the skates out in the store, the ABT mounting got in the way
  when I tried some forward/sideways/backwards transitions. I skate
  brakeless, but two friends of mine who also got Aeros in the past
  month, have replaced the ABTs with the brakes from their older
  Rollerblades. (Give Rollerblade credit for not re-designing this
  capability out of the skate.) New skaters probably won't even
  realize that there's a "problem".
  The frames aren't as rigid as on my TRSes and seem to be putting a
  little sideways pressure on the axle of the second wheel (from the
  front) so that those the axles put up a small fight when you're
  trying to remove them for wheel rotation.
  After the second day of skating on the new skates, I had one bearing
  start to lock up on me. I had skated for about five blocks on a
  slightly moist street on that second day, but all the other bearings
  were okay, so I can't quite decide if it was a bad bearing from the
  get-go or just bad luck.
  The Aeros are definitely narrower than my old TRSes, so that people
  with wide feet may find them unwearable. (Macroblades seem to be
  even narrower, but I understand that Bravoblades are a bit wider.)
  I've had a little trouble around the bottom of the rear half of my
  feet, but this seems to come and go depending on if I've been dinking
  around with the liner.
  After one month of mixed slalom and street skating (no stair bashing
  or curb grinding), one of the stock (77mm/78A) wheels is showing
  signs it will come apart *very* soon and I have ordered my first of
  replacement wheels (80mm/82A).
Additional comments:
  An excellent skate for slalom skating and for tooling about town,
  especially group skate activities, in which I found they make a
  noticeable difference in whether you're at the front or back of
  the pack. Also a good exercise skate for those who have not moved
  up to 5-wheel or long-frame 4-wheel skates.
  There are a few features which suggest that they could not handle
  serious abuse (note my comment above about the non-rigid frame),
  but they can apparently sustain quite a bit, as I have one friend
  who does occasional stair bashing and curb grinding in his 1992
  or 1993 version of this model.
  Be sure to test out the pump system thorughly when purchasing a
  pair, as one friend who purchased a pair found that one local
  store had several pairs with one or both pumps somehow screwed up.
  My rating below would be a 9/10 if I hadn't had to replace a
  bearing and my wheels so soon.

My personal rating:  8 / 10


--------

1)   Review by: [e-mail] (Martin Sripan)
2)   Product type: Skate
3)   Company: UltraWheels (this specific model made by Atomic)
4)   Model name: Zephyr/Neon, Size: 11-allows for at supposed most size 76mm wh
eels
5)   Model year: 1993; Discontinued on UltraWheels' Line
6)   Price: sale for $139.00-usually $189.00-now $139.00
7)   Purchase date: July 1993
8)   From: Herman's-out of business-Grind Zone has it 139
9)   Approximate length of use: 1 year
10)   Pros:*Wheels are okay for extreme, bearings were mixed-Rocks, GMN, etc.
           good though.
          *Frame inside like TRS I think-never saw TRS-but it has walls
           seperating the wheels-better frame stability
          *Monocoque boot and frame construction supposedly for better stabilit
y
          *Liner is no big deal-like a shoe interior with no footbed
          *Rear entry is nice & easy, but not special
10)  Cons:*Hot rod style axles bent-needed a wrench and two hours to take out
          *Plastic frame & bearing spacers sucked
          *Frame is okay, but bends easy
          *Probably a result of hard wheels-but much vibration
          *Hard to get good fit-no instep strap or buckle, and...
          *No way to tighten fit from top buckle down-only one buckle
          *Brake sux, as do all other standard brakes
          *Only way to rocker is to wear down front and back wheels :)
          *Sometimes even if I didn't put the buckle on tight, I got blisters
           and the tongue, not movable, put a dent in my skin and caused odd
           bone growth in that area
          *Forward flex is the only thing available, rest of boot is steel rigi
d
          *Regardless, the boot scraps up real easy-probably PE or PU-
           it's softer than my grind plates!
11)   Additional comments: Buy the Lightning TRS instead-more likely than not,
          it's better.
12)  Personal rating: against other companies-1, for advanced-1, intermediate-
           4, beginners/lazy careless people-10-(not to imply they're the same)

-----

1) Review By: Marty Gold ([e-mail])
2) Product Type: Skate
3) Brandname: K2
4) Model Name: Extreme Workout
5) Purchase Price: Approx. $300

6) Purchased From:
     Emilio's Ski Shops
     112-32 Queens Blvd.
     Flushing, NY
     [phone]

7) Date Purchased: June 1994
8) Have used skate approx. 6 weeks/200+ miles

9) Description: mid-cuff 4 wheel skate convertible to 5 wheels with the
     purchase of additional axle and wheel assembly.

     Wheels: Hyper Wheels: Cross-Trainers X-360 [77.5MM],
     Durometer 78-A
     Bearings: Twincam ABEC-1, Serviceable Spacers: Aluminum
     Frame: Glass composite


10) Pros:
1 - A reasonably priced entry-level racing skate with the addition of
     the 5th wheel.
2 - Can be used with only 4 wheels which is helpful when getting used
     to the longer frame (5th wheel can be added later).
3 - The sneaker-like construction (no liner, padding and boot are one
     piece) provides added comfort especially when utilized as a
     cross-training skate. Yet solid construction provides greater ankle
     support than other racing skates.
4 - Combined laces and upper buckle closure allows greater adjustability.
5 - Heel brake can be worn on either left or right skate by moving bracket.
6 - Axle is the screw type which prevents over-tightening.

11) Cons:
1 - Skate is on the heavy side, especially with the addition of the
     fifth wheel (wheel, axle, spacers and bearings.
2 - The heel brake and bracket are long and can be clumsy when
     attempting cross-overs.
3 - The brake is extremely soft and requires frequent replacement. My
     first replacement was necessary after approx. 5 weeks. When speaking
     with K2 they informed me that the break was designed soft to provide
     extra stopping power.
4 - The bearings were ABEC-1, for the price one would expect 3's
5 - The buckles/laces have a tendency to loosen up once in a while.
     skating. (Laces are unwaxed-nylon and can be replaced with waxed to
     hold better)
6 - The axles are removed via an allen/hex key (provided) but while
     attempting to reposition the wheels to accommodate the fifth wheel the
     key caused the screw-head to round out requiring a new axle.

12) Additional Comments: At the time of this writing, replacement parts
     had not yet been shipped to local dealers due to backlog, but K2 was
     very accommodating about mailing the replacement parts directly to me.

     I would like to stress the comfort aspect of this skate. I have been
     preparing for a long-distance marathon, skating on average of 20 miles
     a day/6 days a week and have found the skates to be extremely
     comfortable and provide strong ankle support. Although, I have been
     considering the addition of ankle straps since road workouts are
     stressful on the ankles (potholes, traffic, etc.).

13)  My Personal Rating: 8



     _________________________________________________________________

Inline shop reviews


From: [e-mail] (Martin Sripan)

Don Thomas Sporthaus: Detroit
  * "Whatever makes you happy, we'll do". I'll go with that!
  * Sell classy women's clothes and ski stuff.
  * Carry many skates from Atomic, Roces & Rollerblade.
  * Have a whole ton of models from last year at like 30% off.
  * Help you a LOT-especially Tom Adams (I think that's his name)
  * Real skaters too, most knowledgable.
  * They sell many wheels, accessories, CDS, protective gear.
  * Roces ATL CDG MOW R, Rollerblade Pro Bravo Cool and others.

The Skate Shop: Youngstown, OH
  * Owned by a lady who has a son who skates (quad, inline, board).
  * Sell little stuff
  * The only in town
  * They sell only UltraWheels, Cyko, Flyaway and other boarding stuff.

Millennium In-Line
  * Has a *great* selection
  * OK service-I call the guy practically every day, so he hates me.
  * Messed up my shipping twice! (probably because I changed it
                                  both times)
  * Everytime I order (if they don't have something I'm looking for)
    They're VERY quick to point me to a replacement-a product I know
    nothing about-but obviously he knows what he's doing because
    it always ends up I get a better product.
    When I just ordered my stuff from them, I said:
    "...I would like to have the CDS Detroit 57mm Grind Stones..."
    and the guy said something like:
    "I don't have those because they sell slow.
     So that would be the 52mm you're getting" Of course, lucky me,
    I didn't need to use the 57mm anyway.
  * Have a long-distance tech support line-they should have a
    secret exception for kids whose parents would get totally
    phissed if they called long distance (me). Or they could get
    on the Internet-seems everyone's doing it.
  * They're usually missing something I want (could be coincidence)
  * I saw ABEC-3 Bearings for 17.60 for 16-you saw me type this in,
    with a warning that it could be a typo-turns out it was-they're 1.
  * This was only in my experiences, YSituationMV greatly cause the
    guy knows and doesn't really like me.
  * One time I asked to speak to the owner, and since I had called
    many times earlier, I knew his voice. Turns out I had been talking
    to the same person every time. But, today I called twice (at least)
    and it turns out that there are more people there that sound just
    like him. Odd ain't it?

Team Paradise
  * GREAT!!! No I wasn't paid to say this, I'm serious.
  * 20.00 minimum-perfect excuse for buying something totally
    senseless for my application.
  * Changed my order several times, and...
  * Called them many times, and...
  * Verified my order twice, and...
  * Added stuff to my order-they didn't get mad
  * No crap
  * No pushing
  * Not too many missing products and typos
  * Knowledgable
  * Internet Connections (Great, so we can get good advice)

Hudson Bay Inline
  * I'm pretty sure that they run on a "what's good" basis
   :) I asked to buy Mearthane RollerEdge Starlight 77mm/84A wheels
      but he said he wanted to hear if it was good first. Then he says:
      "What did you hear?" So I told him something like:
      "I just want to buy them, I'll tell you if they're good."
   :) So...You should probably tell them whether or not certain
      wheels are good so he can bulk order blems and you can order
      them. Especially good when you want a wheel no one sells, like
      DA Bump. He had 4 left, which I bought. Dang cheap too.
   * Good service, I called them many times without them getting
     mad and I even reserved my wheels for a day (turned out to
     be useless, I ordered my wheels the same day).
   * Great selection

Inline USA
   * Internet Connections (Great, so we can get good advice)
   * Great even though I haven't ordered from them yet.
   * 1-800 tech support
   * Carpet testing
   * Skate assembly with free stuff
   * Price beating
   * Nice support and people will go out of their way to help you.
   * Great selection of skates but not enough products (I think)
     or not as many as MI-L, but that's ok.
   * They seem to have gone to more race than extreme skating
   * I called them 5 times and asked for a catalog/catalist-
     I only recieved their 93 catalog, and for months it hasn't
     come out. Please contact me if you're reading this Jack. :)

I think it's nice that Inline USA cut the crap out of their
catalogs, but I also miss it because I like to see what certain
products look like before I buy them-how are we supposed to
know if we like a product if we've NEVER SEEN IT? Someone or some
company should make a color catalog of products for inline skates-
or how about another FAQ section?-:)

Need non-mail-order addresses or phone #'s, e-mail me.
More to come as I order more and more (if I do).

--------
K2 skates
---------
From: [e-mail] (Patrick Lee)
Subject: REVIEW- K2 Power Extremes
Date: 12 May 94 13:00:46 GMT


        Seeing as nobody has posted a review of the new K2-Exotech skates
yet, I guess I will.

        I just bought a pair of K2 Power Extremes, and they're pretty
good skates.  For those of you who aren't familiar with them, they're the
new skates that use a sneaker-like boot with an external hinged cuff for
ankle support.  As such, they're pretty comfortable and really breathable.

        Anyway, some points that you wouldn't be able to tell from the
Inline buyer's guide issue...

        The bearing spacers in the Power Extreme (and presumably the
Extreme Flight and the Extreme Z) are nylon, not steel as stated in the
buyer's guide.  The Skate uses an axle system similar to the Roces type
in which the axle is threaded on the inside of one side and the bolt
screws into that, preventing over-tightening.

        The rockering spacers are really neat, but have some potential
problems.  They're hexagonal, giving one six positions for each wheel.
(much more flexible than the RB system).  Now for the tricky part.  On
one side, the spacer has a hexagonal hole, on the other side, a hold
slightly smaller than the axle.  The axle itself has a hexagonal bit next
to the head that fits into the spacer and a slightly thinner bit a the
end, which fits into the other spacer.  The net effect is that one only
needs one wrench to remove the wheels (kind of like the wave, but
without the annoying wavy bits).  Unfortunately, I have no idea how you
could put a hop up kit on these skates.  They don't seem like they'd need
it (except for aluminum spacers, which I installed) but doing so would
require getting another set of rockering spacers (in order to get a
complete set of either hex or circular holed spacers).  In addition to
this, the spacers are pretty easy to mix up.  One can substitute a hex
spacer for a circular one (but not vice-versa) if one doesn't look too
hard, in fact, this was the case on my skates out of the box, so I'd
advise that anyone buying a pair of these skates check the spacers to
make sure that they're correct.

        On a better note, the skates come with servicable Twincam
Abec-3's, pretty decent hyper wheels, and possibly the nicest
wrench/bearing pusher I've ever seen come standard with a skate.  The
brake pad is plenty big/effective, and uses the same size hex bolt (so
you only need to carry one tool).  The skates will take up to 82 mm
wheels with no modifications (in size 9), rather surprising for skates
with RB Lightning style crossbars between the wheelwells on the frame.

        As someone mentioned before, the skates are a bit tight in the
ankle for some people.  In my case, I had to have the store expand the
ankle using a heat gun before they were comfortable.  The combination of
laces (covered by a flap) and buckle/straps is very supportive, with much
much more fore/aft flex than any other skates I've owned.

        Anyway, in general, a really nice pair of skates, though I
wouldn't really reccommend it for someone who's not comfortable with the
front/back flexibility.  Otherwise, very comfortable/breathable, nice
standard bearings, flexible wheel options, and an interesting but
potentially annoying spacer system.

-Pat


From: [e-mail] (T Robert)
Date: 21 May 1994 15:07:04 -0400

In article ([e-mail]), [e-mail] (Thomas
Darling) writes:

Tom,  I bought a pair of K2 Extreme Power skates several weeks ago
and I am very happy with them.  I'm new to inline skating but I
didn't want an entry level skate that I would have to upgrade to
enjoy.  Theses skates are much more comfortable than ANY of th hard
shell skates I tried on and I shopped at 8 or 10 different stores and
tried on maybe twenty different pairs of good skates.  The Power
Extreme is pretty high tech.  The closure system combines laces over
the lower part of your foot ( not very quick but an excellent way to
"wrap" the soft lower boot around your foot to achieve a good fit)
with a velcro instep strap that covers this laced portion.  Higher
up, where the boot becomes a hard plastic piece again there is a
ski-boot style buckle and another velcro strap above that at the
cuff.  These skates take me a few minutes to put on but I have no
chafing, movement or DISCOMFORT.  They come standard with ABEC3
bearings, an excellent rockering capability built in, Hyperwheel 78A
wheels in 76mm and a very convenient mounting/ dismounting tool.  I
paid $239 plus tax here in Massachussetts and I think they're worth
it.  I don't play hockey, I skate recreationally and for fitness.
People seem to be concerned about the soft portion of the boot but I
haven't had any incidence of scuffing or tearing yet...I haven't
fallen very much either.  The toe end IS hard plastic and the brake
seems to be fine, it is big and easily replaced using the same tool
that mounts the wheels.  The 78A wheels seem a little soft however, I
weigh 183 lbs and have been practicing T-stops so that may explain
the seemingly quick wear.  I'm going to try switching to 80mm 80A or
82A wheels when I need to replace them.  Just this afternoon I
started disassembling the wheels and bearings, cleaning the bearings
in acetone and relubing them with a fine grade machine oil.  It's
time consuming!  Anyway..if you can try on a pair of K2's I think
you'll end up buying them.    Good luck,   Tim


From: [e-mail] (Patrick Lee)
Date: 21 May 94 22:00:22 GMT

[e-mail] (Thomas Darling) writes:

>I'd avoid them.  I tried out K2's "Rock Ice" model at a local ski shop.  On
>the plus side, they were pretty comfortable.  Unfortunately, they had little
>else going for them.  They have a "gimmicky" upper with velcro and such that
>does not look like it could possibly stand up to the kind of abuse
>associated with outdoor skating.  The frames are big, cheap-looking plastic
>affairs.  The boot is thin and would probably shred pretty quickly.

        Well, I've been skating for about 5 years now, and the K2 Power
Extremes are pretty much the best recreational skates I've had. (Before
that I had a pair of Macros, and then a some Aeros).  The upper actually
isn't all that gimmicky.  That big velcro-flap is there to keep the laces
from coming untied and getting jammed in your skates.  The integral Power
strap helps keep your ankle anchored.  As for the boot, it's well
protected in the places where it needs to be (the toe, the sides of the
toe, and the heel) where shredding tends to take place.  The frames are
big, yes, but they're also one of the few recreational skates I've seen
that will take 82mm wheels with space to spare, in most sizes (80's were
pushing it on the Aeros, had to scrape some brake off before they'd
fit).  As for the cheapness, it's probably just the textured plastic
that's throwing you off, they're the same material that most high end
rec. skates use for frames, glass/carbon reinforced nylon. Just because
they bothered to put some texture on it doesn't mean it's vinyl.

  One final thing.  As a skater, one of the _primary_ things I look for
in a skate is comfort.  If it's a great technical skate, but it kills
your feet, forget it, it's not worth the pain.  These skates are comfy
and probably the best ventillated I've seen.

-Pat



From: [e-mail] (Stephen J. Okay)
Date: 23 May 1994 01:13:38 GMT

In article ([e-mail]) [e-mail] (Thomas Darling) writes
:
>[e-mail] (Michael Koop) writes:
>
>> Does anyone out there know anything about the range of K2 range of
>> in- line skates?   They are about to be released here in Australia and
>> information about how good/bad they are is scarce.  I have seen a couple of
>> pairs and they look  pretty soft and comfy but how do they skate?
>
>I'd avoid them.  I tried out K2's "Rock Ice" model at a local ski shop.  On
>the plus side, they were pretty comfortable.  Unfortunately, they had little
>else going for them.  They have a "gimmicky" upper with velcro and such that
>does not look like it could possibly stand up to the kind of abuse
>associated with outdoor skating.  The frames are big, cheap-looking plastic
>affairs.  The boot is thin and would probably shred pretty quickly.

I tried on a pair about a month or so ago and found them to be pretty much
the opposite. For starters, they were the most comfortable skate I'd ever
tried on. They fit quite well around my foot and there were no gaps or
spaces I could feel in the fit.

As for the frame, I don't think they're all plastic. I believe they're
a carbon composite reinforced plastic frame. I just can't see K2 putting
out an all-plastic skate. Even RB uses fiberglass reinforcement on their
low end models. I could be wrong and you're entirely free to correct
me, but I don't think I am.

Despite this, I would have to agree with Tom on the durability issue.
These are a line of racing or cruising/distance skates.
These are *NOT* street/thrash skates.  I would be more than a little
hesistant to take a pair of these out on my usual rounds, esp. given the
boot on them and that they are more than a little pricey($200 seems to be
the floor for a decent model).
If you are looking for a good race skate or cruising/path skate, these
are great!. I almost bought a pair but couldn't promise myself I'd stay
off stairs and walls and stuff.


From: [e-mail] (Joshua James Roman)
Date: Sat, 21 May 1994 16:52:05 GMT

I, too, tried out the K2 skates at a local ski shop and talked to
the rep for a while.  My observations...
1.  The Power Extremes are comfortable, with plenty of forward lean-
        too much if you are used to TRS type boots.
2.  The Rock Ice is a solid boot, and very comfortable, but I wouldn't
        trade my RB's for them.
3.  The only solid paaart on the front/sides of the skate is the plastic
        toe cup, which the rep swore was the same thickness as TRS.
        Looking at the many srapes and scratches on my skates
        made me realize that the K2's toe cup was woefully inadequate
        to protect the soft 'exotech' shell from most toe drags or
        slideouts.  The stuff may be touch, but 'gorilla mesh' isn't
        plastic!
4.  K2 is having problems with some of their higher-end racing skates,
        They are having problems with the factory in Taiwan.

5.  Their convertible 4-5 wheel skate (cool concept!), was, in the rep's
        words, 'An inexpensive introductory racing/workout skate'.
        As it is a well put together and good looking skate, I expectantly
        asked the price-- $329.99!!!!!!!!!!    I almost choked!

From: [e-mail] (George Robbins)
Date: 23 May 94 17:34:13 GMT

In article ([e-mail]) [e-mail] (Thomas Darling) writes
:
> [e-mail] (Michael Koop) writes:
> associated with outdoor skating.  The frames are big, cheap-looking plastic
> affairs.  The boot is thin and would probably shred pretty quickly.
>
> I'd heard about the new K2 skates for a long time, and was really looking
> forward to them, but I found them highly disappointing.

I think you may be jumping to an overly broad conclusion.  While the boot
design might not be well suited to the abuse of hockey or street tricks,
it might be quite adequate for more ordinary skating.  You don't need any
more plastic than required to provide the needed footbed and ankle support
and don't want anymore weight tied to your foot than neccessary.  If these
boots perform well and are as cool as the "ventilation" suggests they might
be a real improvement over the RB style klunkers.

I had some reservations about the rails too - they're just parallel slabs
of 1/4" thick fiber-glass reinforced plastic.  While they're probably pretty
strong, the attachment to the boot looked pretty wimpy and they just screamed
for some kind of cross-bracing.  One intersting feature was that the 5-wheel
frames were also drilled for an alternate wide-space 4-wheel arrangement if
you preferred that.  I guess you could also get creative with super-rocker
or other odd wheel setups if you had a drill-press to insure that your
holes were square though all the rails.

I don't know if I would buy these, but I wouldn't rule them out.  The local
ski shop had 3-different models of the ~12 shown in the brochure,  but not
the high-end ones.



Performance
-----------
From: [e-mail] (Jerrold Comm/GI)
Subject: Re: deciding between Performance brand in-lines

Douglas V Roberts (Doug) ([e-mail]) wrote:
: Howdy All,

: I've decided to decide between the Performance brand of in-lines for my
: first pair of skates.  They offer the Attack and the Vector-II models.
: I intend to use them primarily for recreation and exercise and have
: no particular desire to learn stair-bashing or other "fancy" stuff.  The
: difference between the two boots appears to be that the Attacks have
: ABEC-3 bearing, a slightly higher boot, and 3 buckles.  The Vector-II's
: have ABEC-1 bearings and one buckle + laces.  Both boots appear to be
: well-ventilated.  My question is: for my intended use, and being a first-
: time in-line skater, should I shell out the additional $30 for the Attack
: model??  Any and all opinions welcome (as long as they're constructive!!).

: Thanks!
: Doug

--
I chose Vector-II's because the lower buckles on the Attacks were
uncomfortable and the Attack boots were too high for my ice hockey-
accustomed calves. I am only one week into this sport, but offer these
comments:

1) Changing wheels is difficult.  Instead of a through bolt with nut,
there is a threaded insert inside the bearing.  Wheel bolts are inserted
from each side of the frame.  When I tried to remove the bolts to
rock the wheels (like my ice hockey skates), the first bolt came out
easily, but the one on the other side just spun.  I had to tighten
the one I just removed enough to allow the stuck one to come off, then
hope the original one would come out.  ugh! I called the store (retail)
and they said "We never have that problem!"  Anyone else?

2) The buckles seem a bit flimsy, but are attached with screws for
easy replacement.

3) I have nothing else to compare them to, but in the 3 hours I have
spent on them here in Phoenix where I am traveling, they  have been
quite comfortable.  I managed to learn how to use the brake, and they
seem to stop adequately even on some pretty steep roads here at
South Mountain.

4) I got some wobble on high speed descents.  Could this be a
consequence of rockering them?

5) For $110, they seem like a pretty good way to get introduced to
this sport.


ULTRA-WHEELS
------------
From: [e-mail] (Kevin C. Brown)
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1993 23:37:38 GMT
Subject: Re: One-buckle UltraWheel skates -- Impressions ?

In article ([e-mail]), Benjamin Werner (werner@cs.c
ornell.edu) writes:
>Has anybody tried out the UltraWheel skates with only one buckle and
>rear-entry ?  What are you're impressions ? There is at least one model
>("Zephyr" I think) and the boot seems to be made in Austria.

I have the Zephyr's, I got them from Damark ( a mail order
catalog) for about $90.00. They are really cool looking.
When I skate by everyone looks down at my skates because
they are so different looking. They pretty comfortable but
you should try them on first if you can. They tend to be
slightly narrow in my opinion but I bought them a half
size larger than my shoe size 9.5. (they don't come in half
sizes. The chart on the box says that men should pick
their shoe size. If you are a 9.5 like me than you go to
the next full size. When I wore the skates for the first
time I wore socks that were too thick and I tightened the
buckle to tight and lost some skin on my lower shin just
an inch above were the foot starts. There is also a rivet
on the inside of the shell that can give you a nasty blister
if your inside ankle rubs on it. But otherwise they are OK
skates for the price I paid. I think they retail for about
189.00. My two buddies who also have this skate have no
problem whatsoever.

-----

From: [e-mail]  COMPUTER BLUE
Subject: Re: One-buckle UltraWheel skates -- Impressions ?

In article ([e-mail]), [e-mail] (Kevin C. Brown) wri
tes...
>>Has anybody tried out the UltraWheel skates with only one buckle and
>>rear-entry ?  What are you're impressions ? There is at least one model
>>("Zephyr" I think) and the boot seems to be made in Austria.

I have serious reservations about rear-entry, one buckle boots.
IMO, they will only give  good fit for a minority of people.
One buckle doesn't provide much adjustment (alone) and  what
about the rest of your foot?  Npt all people have the same width
or shape foot.  Although /I have never tried on a rear-entry
boot, I can make some comments on other  types.

All lace:  Good fit for many different feet.  Hard to compromise
between ankle tightness and lower boot tightness.  Tend to loosen
after extended skates, may tend to break laces often.

Lace & Buckle (on upper cuff):  My favortie type.  goo d comfort,
Fits a wide variety of feet, and provides independent adjustment
of ankle tightness and boot snugness.

3 Buckle:  No laces to break, fast on/off time.  Independent
adjustment of ankle and lower boot.  Downside:
uneven pressure due to only 2 buckles on lower boot.  Has a
"pinching" effect.

My advice: try on many different types of nboots to see what you
find most comfortable.  If you like the rear entry, then fine,
but just be sure to try out all your other options before
deciding.

-----

From: [e-mail]
Date: 25 Nov 91 13:09:38 GMT
Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

I test drove my new Gretzky Wings this past Saturday in a hockey game.
They roll very smoothly and the boot is quite comfortable.  The lower part
of the skate laces and the upper part has the ski boot style buckle. This
makes for a very snug ankle fit.   I would recommend these buckle styles
for any skaters that really like a snug fit.  One of the things I didn't
like about my last pair of skates was that it was hard to pull the laces
very tight with the plastic boots.  I like my hockey (ice) skates very
tight and snug (like they're a part of my feet), and the buckle really
allows for that feel on the inline.

Since I'm still pretty much a greenhorn at inline skating, I've got a few
things to learn about stopping in a hockey game!  Especially now with
skates with very fast bearings.  I love the fact that I can corner much
better with the Wings than my older skates, and the speed and
smoothness is much closer to ice now too, but ya just can't hockey stop
in an inline like you do on ice (and I keep forgetting that!).  Any other
inline hockey players have comments on stopping style?

I also removed the brake from my skate about midway through the game,
and it made turning around to skate backwards much easier.  I kept
catching the brake sometimes when I'd turn around.  I don't recommend
skating without a brake around town (hills and such) but on a flat surface
during a hockey game, not a bad idea.  I also found that I could turn more
easily by pivoting on the front wheels instead of the whole skate.  Might
be able to retain the brake if I perfect this technique more.

The liner in the Wings is also very comfortable.  Pretty thick foam so
even when the skate is tight, you don't feel like it is digging into your
foot.  I'm pretty happy with the skate so far.

Oh yeah, we were playing hockey on a tennis court.  Great surface, pretty
smooth (although ours here at Carnegie Mellon have some major cracks
in them) so you roll nicely, and don't shred yourself when you fall, but
rough enough that you can really hug the surface on turns.

--Tom

P.S.  The Wings are also on sale now at the Great Skate for $170.  This
       is a *GREAT* price.  I paid $183 at Sabreland for mine, which is
        the best "regular" price I found.  I didn't get my Great Skate
        sale catalog until a few days after I had already ordered them
        from Sabreland.  If anyone is interested in a fast, comfortable
        skate, I'd recommend looking into these.  Enjoy!

P.P.S.  They also give you this really cheezy video of them making an
        UltraWheels video with Gretzky.  A real selling point!  (HA)

-----

The Reviews section of the October issue of Outside has an excellent article
about in-lines. The writer reviews skates he likes from Ultra Wheels,
SwitcHit, Bauer, Riedell, and Rollerblade.

He also describes the nature of learning new things on skates: you often will
find that you learn new skills instantly -- or will find that you already know
how to do something, but won't discover it until The Moment of Trial. I won't
spoil the stories he tells, but I do think he embellished his Boulder Creek
Trail story a bit--I don't think I've ever hit 40MPH on the section of trail
mentioned on my Racers. Perhaps 30. That's fast enough. It is a fun little
section of trail, provided that few other users are around.

The writer strongly states that lateral support is mandatory. This is not
necessarily true. Good racers prefer to have their ankles free for more power
on the stroke. World-class skaters -- both quad and in-line -- will use
boots that are cut very low. However, substantial lateral support is very
useful for almost all non-racing types.

My other gripe, a small one, is that I view the RacerBlade as an excellent
commuting skate, not necessarily as only a beginner's racing skate. If you're
mainly interested in getting from Point A to B and already have some
experience, don't ignore the "Racer".

All in all, an excellent article. Some good ideas for folks who want to try
something other than Rollerblade skates. Check it out.

Phil Earnhardt          [e-mail]
Netwise, Inc.           Boulder, CO  [phone]



From: [e-mail] (Tim Rice)
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1992 15:15:42 GMT

I owned a pair of the Micron hockey skates back around '80.  I grew up on
Bauer skates (Black Panthers, 92's, etc.).  When I got into my 20's my feet
were too wide for Bauer's anymore (to much trouble with in-grown toenails).
The Microns are the urethane (plastic) boot with an ICM blade.  They were a
nice skate except that motion side to side was too restrictive.  The boot
didn't pivot enough in that direction so I would "often" lose an edge and
wind up on my butt.  This finally happened once during a game where I got
hurt, I went head first into the boards.  The skates were retired just after
that.

Other than that the boot was great.  It provided many advantages over a
leather boot.  One I didn't see you mention was that it distributes the
shock from a puck much better than leather.  Again this is speaking from
experience since I had some toes broken in this fashion.

After experimenting with different skates I'd buy leather because it is
still the best all around.  The only real disadvantages to leather are the
break in and down aspects.  They provide the most control.  The next problem
is in finding a leather skate.  I stay away from synthetics as much as
possible.  I prefer GRAF skates.  The break in period is very short.  The
break down period is also short (downside).  It is a very comfortable boot
and provides the most control I've found.  They are rather expensive 200+
for a hockey skate, considering they won't last 3 years.  An active high
school type player may only get one year out of them.  For someone my age
they're perfect, I get 3 years out of a pair.  It's about time for my third.


MACRO BLADES EQ/ES

From: [e-mail] (Gary W. Mahan)
Subject: MacroBlade Equipes Review

I recently bought a pair of Macroblade Equipes(the new model).  I thought I wou
ld give a little review on them as I have not seen any yet.

My main reason for buying the Equipe was shoe size.  I really wanted the AeroBl
ades (for weight savings) but the biggest size was a 12.5 and I have a size 13
foot.  Several people in this group recommended that I try the Aeros.  Well I d
id and they were way too narrow.  The Equipe boot will accomodate wider feet mu
ch better. I ended up getting the Equipe in a 30.5 (biggest size available).

I have seen several postings comparing Aeros to Equipes.  From what I have read
, most seem to think that Equipes are not rockerable like the Aeros.  Well the
Equipes I have seem to have the same rockering combinations as the Aeros. Also
the Equipes have ratcheting buckles like the Aeros.  The buckles on the Equipes
 seemed a little better.

The largest wheel that will fit is supposedly a 77 mm as opposed to 80 for the
Aeros(Supposedly). The skates were equipped with 76mm 76A hyper wheels (Small h
ub).  The bearings were ABEC1 made in singapore (same as on my lightning TRS's)
.

The Equipes have a cuff which allows some forward movement.  However it is not
hinged like a Aero.  This is still hard to get use to.  I almost fell backward
several times because of this (although this may have been for other reasons (w
heel positioning)).  I consider the ankle support to be excellent compared to m
y lightnings.

The Equipes also seem to have wheel positioning similar to the Aeros (i.e the f
ront whell is more forward).  The front axle is lined up with the front of the
boot.

The liners are very comfortable although memory foam is not used.  There are ho
les in the liners for ventilation but these do not extend all the way through t
he foam.

The skates are vented like Aero's although not as much.

The skates have tremendously increased my skating ability (as opposed to lightn
ing TRS's).  I seem to be able to go much faster now.  At high speeds I do not
seem to have the skates wobble as much (eventhough the wheelbase difference is
less than an inch).  My gliding ability (1 foot) has also increased dramaticall
y, allowing more efficient strokes.

The price on the Macroblades was $279 (Aeros were $289).

METROBLADES
-----------

From: [e-mail] (James Garvey)
Subject: Re: MetroBlades - review requested

In article ([e-mail])
[e-mail] (Jeffrey Ray Thieleke) writes:
>
>I'm looking for people's opinions on MetroBlades - good and bad.  Specifically
,
>I'm interested in performance and comfort.
>
I sent out a request for info on metroblades about 2 months ago and really
didn't get much of a response.  My friend is getting ready to buy a pair in
New York City and he told me that the big problem is support around the
ankles.  Rollerblade puts them in their "sport" category which is supposed to
be for "thrashing".  I'm not sure how much trashing you want to do in a boot
like the Metroblade.  Anyway, the general consensus was get a pair of sandals
or lightweight shoes and buy a pair of skates with buckles.  Then buy a
fanny pack or something like that to carry your shoes while you skate.  Get
yourself a ski boot strap (handle with a loop of nylon) and carry your skates
like ski boots.  Most sports stores will give you a ski boot handle for free.

Here's a few of the replies regarding the Metroblade.  (Tony, I'm not sure if
you'd want to include these or not, but here they are for your review).

(original post)
>I have a friend that is getting ready to buy a pair of inline skates and is
>considering buying Rollerblade Metroblades.  This is the skate that has a
>built in boot inside of it that lets you "walk" out of the skate.  He's
>not planning on doing a lot of heavy duty skating, just to and from work.
>I would say that stalling and rail sliding would definitely be out!
>
>His main concern is not having to carry around a pair of shoes when he
>skates.  Does anyone know anything about these skates?

I own a pair and am very happy with them, commuting to and from university
and generally around town.  _I_ might recommend them, but they're the only
skates I've used for extended amounts of time (i.e., non-rentals), so I
don't have much to compare them with.  I've heard other skaters (on this
board, in person, and in Inline magazine) complain that they're not really
up to snuff... that Rollerblade made too many performance degradations to
get the design to work.  The design _does_ work, though.  The shoes are
comfortable both inside the skates (though it hurts for a few days getting
used to how tight it needs to be to minimize wobble) and outside them (I've
hiked in the shoes.. no problem.  They look like they'll last quite a while
too).  Getting into and out of the skates is fast and easy.
        On the other hand, even folded up the skate shell is heavy and
unwieldy, perhaps not as much as whole blades, but they can't be stuffed in
a backpack unless the backpack's pretty empty (btw, Rollerblade is offering
a free backpack -- a $50 value! *snort* -- to purchasers of Metroblades.  I
haven't gotten mine yet, but I suppose the pack could be designed to carry
the blade shell easily).
        If your friend is planning to use the skates for organized
recreation (i.e.  hockey or half-pipes), or even for getting a bit radical
during the commute, probably a one-piece skate and a light pair of shoes
would be a better idea.  I'm happy with my pair, and wouldn't trade them in
for anything, but then I always wished I had a pair of key-roller-skates or
a fold-up-bike when I was younger.  I like to be portable.

-eh

------------------------------------------------------------------
erik hilsdale                                   [e-mail]



Word is that these are a clever idea, but the compromise is that you
may not get the best skate for the money you pay.  It they guys is fixed
on it it's probably survivable.  Is he an experienced skater, or just a
beginner trying to plan his fate?

The alternative would be a good 3-buckle skate that is very quick to
pop on/off and pair of really lightweight shoes he can carry in a fanny
pack or other tote.  There are some lightweight (soft sole) cycle shoes
and some that are even lighter for swimmers or something like that.

George Robbins - now working for,     work:   to be avoided at all costs...



>The alternative would be a good 3-buckle skate that is very quick to
>pop on/off and pair of really lightweight shoes he can carry in a fanny
>pack or other tote.  There are some lightweight (soft sole) cycle shoes
>and some that are even lighter for swimmers or something like that.

This has been my solution - I have a pair of Teva sandals that I wear
when I'm off the blades, and they work pretty well - I carry them
around in my fanny pack.   I also have a loop of nylon cord with a
handle on it for carrying the skates when I'm wearing the sandals.
There's also an over-the-shoulder carry strap that you can get for
rollerblades, but I haven't tried it, so I don't know how well it
works...

                               _MelloN_
--
[e-mail]                                          uunet!lupine!mellon
Member of the League for Programming Freedom.   To find out how software
patents may cost you your right to program, contact [e-mail]


From: [e-mail] (Erik Hilsdale)
Subject: Re: RB Metroblades:  good, bad, or ugly?

In article ([e-mail]) [e-mail] (James Andrew Garv
ey) writes:
>I have a friend that is getting ready to buy a pair of inline skates and is
>considering buying Rollerblade Metroblades.  This is the skate that has a
>built in boot inside of it that lets you "walk" out of the skate.  He's
>not planning on doing a lot of heavy duty skating, just to and from work.
>I would say that stalling and rail sliding would definitely be out!
>
>His main concern is not having to carry around a pair of shoes when he
>skates.  Does anyone know anything about these skates?

I own a pair and am very happy with them, commuting to and from university
and generally around town.  _I_ might recommend them, but they're the only
skates I've used for extended amounts of time (i.e., non-rentals), so I
don't have much to compare them with.  I've heard other skaters (on this
board, in person, and in Inline magazine) complain that they're not really
up to snuff... that Rollerblade made too many performance degradations to
get the design to work.  The design _does_ work, though.  The shoes are
comfortable both inside the skates (though it hurts for a few days getting
used to how tight it needs to be to minimize wobble) and outside them (I've
hiked in the shoes.. no problem.  They look like they'll last quite a while
too).  Getting into and out of the skates is fast and easy.
        On the other hand, even folded up the skate shell is heavy and
unwieldy, perhaps not as much as whole blades, but they can't be stuffed in
a backpack unless the backpack's pretty empty (btw, Rollerblade is offering
a free backpack -- a $50 value! *snort* -- to purchasers of Metroblades.  I
haven't gotten mine yet, but I suppose the pack could be designed to carry
the blade shell easily).
        If your friend is planning to use the skates for organized
recreation (i.e.  hockey or half-pipes), or even for getting a bit radical
during the commute, probably a one-piece skate and a light pair of shoes
would be a better idea.  I'm happy with my pair, and wouldn't trade them in
for anything, but then I always wished I had a pair of key-roller-skates or
a fold-up-bike when I was younger.  I like to be portable.


From: [e-mail] (Dailene Wilson)
Subject: lots of info

I have things to say to Matthew, Bill, Stephen, Koop, and Chris...

Matthew: Yes the Roces have good standard features but their frames (the
part of the skate on which you should base your purchasing decisions) are
terrible. Their plastic frames leave much to desire compared with the
glass reinforced nylon frames the Rollerblade Lightnings (and up) give you.
I skated on the Paris skate and the steel (yes, steel) frame bent in at
a strong angle.I haven't seen any RollerBlade frames bend! They saw this
potential problem years ago when they redesigned the ZetraBlades! I would
rather feel comfortable and safe with a strong frame than worry about
the color of the buckes/liner/boot. Also, the liner of the Paris was
awful. It moved around and was no where near as comfortable as the liners
in my TRS or RacerBlades. Some people say that not everything makes a
difference when buying skates. Not true. The frame should be a one-piece
frame (for stability and rigidity), not to mention the bearings, wheels,
liner, boot, wheel kits. About the only thing that does not make a
difference is the color. You can change that and be creative at the same
time. I don't trust the Roces frames, but the rest of the skate seems
pretty good, especially for the price. But what a price to pay for plastic
frames!

Bill: The MetroBlades are very sturdy considering the flex factor at the
ankle. Whoever said that the sole of the shoe would wear out is probably
right. If you did get these, I would walk on the shoe as little as possible.
Good comfy skate nevertheless.

Stephen: To get buckles on lace up skates, go to your local ski shop.
Any ski shop that does repairs in skis and boots should be able to rivot
some buckles onto your skates..

Koop: The IISA has worked with several cities to reverse the bans on
in-line skating and they should be able to help you out too. Call them
at 1-800-FOR-IISA. Good luck!

Chris: Right on with your comment on the best all around 4-wheel skate
on the market- the Lightning TRS! While you can make some modifications
on this skate, it still provides you with a very strong frame and the
durability to outlast even the craziest skater out there (that's what Chris
Edwards wears!). If you want some more ventilation, drill some holes in
the boot and go crazy! Avoid the seams though, just in case. You can
probably cut holes in the liner where you drilled the holes to give you
the "Aeroblade" effect.
I have tried the Rollerderby Shadow (my 1st pair, I know, really bad), the
MacroBlades, the TRS, the AeroBlades, the CoolBlades, the Macro ES and EQ,
the Racerblades (toughest 5-wheel on the market!), the Bauer XR10 (liner
wore out before anything else and cannot be replaced- bad move on Bauer's
part), Roces Paris (bad), Roces Atlanta (bad!), and the Problade. The
best ones in this group are the TRS, the RacerBlade, and the ProBlade
(leather). You have to not only consider ones options available on the
skates, but to remember that everyone has different feet and one skate
that fits terribly for one person may be the answer to another person.
My main point is look at the hardware after you found a skate that fits
your foot well. If the hardware is poor, go to another skate or you'll
be sorry later.

--Dailene Wilson  [e-mail]       RollerBlade!!
--UNCCharlotte                            Skate Safe, Skate Smart


AEROBLADE REVIEWS
-----------------

From: [e-mail] (Todd Biske)
Subject: Re: AeroBlades vs. Roces Barcelona model

[e-mail] (Simon Handley) writes:

>Does anyone know what the difference is between Aeroblades and the
>Roces "Barcelona" model?

The Barcelona and the Aeros are actually quite a bit different.  Roces used
to manufacture all RollerBlade boots, but this is no longer the case.
RollerBlade boots are now made my Nordica.  Anyways, here goes:

Similarities:
        Both boots are vented
        Both have Memory Foam liners
        Both use a three buckle system on the boots
        Both come with 76mm 78A wheels

Differences:
        Aeroblade boot is vented much better.  The vents are larger and more
          numerous.
        The Aeroblade boot is made from BladeLite (tm) while the Barcelona
          uses the same material as the CoolBlade (polyurethane?) which
          results in a 15% heavier boot.
        Aeros have a graduated brake, can also accept older style RollerBlade
          brakes.
        Barcelona uses a custom Roces brake, not commonly available for people
          in the cornfields of the midwest like myself.
        Barcelona tends to run $30-$40 cheaper than the Aeros.

I just purchased a pair of Aeros from Courtesy Sports in Los Altos (before I
drove back to Illinois for school) and did a lot of research on the Roces vs.
RollerBlade debate, and I think I bought the better skate.  That's an
opinion however.  My final decision was made when I tried on BOTH skates at
Courtesy.  Then my mind was made up.

-----

By the way, I love my new Aeros.  Much better glide than the Lightnings I had
been using (rental loaners).

Something I thought was extra neat, although I haven't taken advantage of it
yet, is that the rockering SLOTS are offset.  This allows a flat blade, a
shallow rocker, a deep rocker, and combinations.

What do I mean?  This is the flat blade setup.

   ---               ---
   | |   ---   ---   | |
   |x|   |x|   |x|   |x|
   ---   | |   | |   ---
         ---   ---

I don't know, maybe this is an old idea, and the Aeros aren't first, but I
*love* this kind of design detail!

-----

I have a pair of Aeroblades.  Here are my comments:

On the plus side:

* Boots very lightweight as mentioned.
* Ventilation good.
* Allows you to bend forward a lot.  (And not side to side, fortunately.)
* Boot positions shin tilted forward more than some other skates --
  encourages you to bend knees more -- a good position for skating
* Big wheels (76mm)
* ratchet buckles are pretty good
* lightweight but strong frames (runners)

End-on view of frames (very schematic):
 Aero     Other
_______  _______
\#   #/    | |
 \   /     | |
  | |      | |


Cons:

* The buckles don't "remember" your previous setting when you remove them
  like the Macroblade ones do.  But you can always mark it with a felt tip
  pen I suppose.

* The brake is like that on the lightnings and macroblade, but it is made
  of "a new composite material" that SQUEALS LIKE HELL WHEN YOU BRAKE.
  Scares the daylights out of unsuspecting pedestrians.  Rollerblade told me
  this would stop when the brake pad was broken in, but it hasn't.  I just
  bought a lightning replacement pad -- I hope this cures the problem.

* I've had some trouble with the fit to my feet.  These seem to be narrower
  than my old rollerblades.  They should really offer both D and E widths
  like Bauer does.  It may also be that three buckles and a very thin boot
  can't support the whole foot all that well.

* The place where the tongue overlaps with the rest of the liner digs two
  ridges into my foot.  Also the footbed (insole) they come with is fairly
  uncomfortable and non-anatomically-shaped.

* They seem to have missed some places that need ventilation. the areas under
  the tongue and and the front and back of my ankles still get quite sweaty.

* On some skates the two parts of some of the buckles do not line up quite
  parallel -- this could lead to premature wear or slipping.

* Some were shipped with wobbly wheels (non-true) -- but your Rollerblade
  dealer should replace them for you if you bring them back in.  Also
  the wheels are not centered with respect to the bearings, and they
  have a cheap-looking part on where I guess they were cut out of their
  mold during manufacturing.  Makes me want Hyper Wheels.

* Wheels aren't as light as the newer wheels from Hyper and Kryptonics.

* I've decided I like softer wheels, to handle those bumps more gracefully.
  Aeros are 78A so maybe my old Zetra 608s had 74A?  But I don't know of any
  inlines that come with softer than 78A nowadays.  Maybe I'll splurge on
  some new wheels.

* Front wheel is further forward than on other skates.  This is okay for
  the experienced skater but I don't recommend it for a beginner because
  this can make the skate unstable if you put your weight forward onto it.
  This may make the skate faster for racing, but it also makes more leverage
  that tends to lift your heel inside the boot, so proper fit becomes even
  more important.  I think they should have moved all four wheels back a
  little (maybe 1/4 inch), since having the back wheel back a little improves
  stability.

* I don't like the color options -- can't they offer something more low key so
  people outside of California aren't embarrassed to be seen in it? :-)

* NMB 608Z bearings (made in singapore).  I have heard that these are not as
  good as the GMN 608Z german bearings that at least used to come in the
  Lightnings.  Not that I've noticed any difference in performance myself.

* Back of the brake sticks out a little more than I think is necessary, which
  can get in the way of crossovers if you're not careful.

* The frame spacer / bearing spacer / axle system is poorly designed.  It does
  not hold the wheel quite straight, and it seems to bind the bearings a little
  when you tighten the bolts a lot, which you have to do to prevent the wheel
  from slipping up and down a little during skating.  Before tightening there
  is too much play and the frame spacer does not properly meet the bearing --
  one of them starts to slide off of the the other on one side.  I don't know
  why, but the one pair of Lightnings I looked at were better than the Aeros in

  this respect, even though they *appear* to have the same parts for this.
  Phil Earnhardt says Reidell has a superior spacer system.  I used to have the
  old metal-runner Zetra 608, which held the center of the bearing via metal
  washers and spacers, and worked much better in that way.  They should make
  the inner diameter of the frame and bearing spacers smaller to match the
  axle, and the frame spacers and the inner part of the bearing spacers (which
  holds the two bearings apart) should be made of aluminum instead of plastic.

I hope somebody at Rollerblade reads this.

David B Rosen, Cognitive & Neural Systems         Internet: [e-mail]

-----

David B. Rosen writes:
>I have a pair of Aeroblades.  Here are my comments:
>
>* The brake is like that on the lightnings and macroblade, but it is
>made of "a new composite material" that SQUEALS LIKE HELL WHEN YOU
>BRAKE.  Scares the daylights out of unsuspecting pedestrians.

It is pretty effective, though, at getting those dim-wits who don't
know what "on your left" means to move off the path... :-)

>* I've had some trouble with the fit to my feet.  These seem to be
>narrower than my old rollerblades.  They should really offer both D
>and E widths like Bauer does.  It may also be that three buckles and a
>very thin boot can't support the whole foot all that well.

Same here.  I've got relatively wide feet, and I'm just hoping that,
over time, my liners will compress a bit and my boots will stretch just
a bit to fit my feet better.

>* The place where the tongue overlaps with the rest of the liner digs
>two ridges into my foot.  Also the footbed (insole) they come with is
>fairly uncomfortable and non-anatomically-shaped.

Of all things, my heels are uncomfortable in my Aeroblades.  It feels
as though I'm putting far too much pressure on them.  Has anyone else
experienced this?

>* I don't like the color options -- can't they offer something more
>low key so people outside of California aren't embarrassed to be seen
>in it? :-)

Ditto!  I'm all for basic black...

-JC, [e-mail]

-----

The only suggestion I have is buy the best skates you can possibly
afford--and maybe even a pair that you can't REALLY afford, but by
scrimping somewhere else you can do it.  Or, alternatively, buy
a cheaper pair of skates but outfit them with high performance
wheels and A-grade bearings before you even hit the pavement (that
is probably the best solution, if you haven't got a lot of money).

I bought a pair of Rollerblade Zetra 303s in May on a whim.  They
cost $150, and I didn't want to "spend to much on something I might
not stick with."  Well, I didn't know it at the time but those skates
were inhibiting me, and within 20-30 miles the el-cheapo C-grade
bearings had melted down and left me with an inoperative pair of
blades.  Two months later I finally got around to calling the shop
where I got the skates to find out about getting them repaired under
warrantee.  They said it would take 8-10 weeks while they shipped
them to Minnesota, determined if it was really a warantee repair,
and then shipped them back--and there was no guarantee they wouldn't
charge me for the repair if they thought it was "my own fault."

Well, in 8-10 weeks there will be snow on the ground up here,
so I was a little upset.  I went out and bought a pair of AeroBlades
($300) in a fit of pique, and man I should have done that in the
first place!  All I can say is, for twice the money you get three
times the blade.  The fast wheels and bearings have a lot to do with
it, but the buckle (as opposed to lace) closure system is a dream.
A medium-priced alternative are the Lightnings, which have
buckle closures but not the fancy chassis.

I'll shut up and let someone who really knows what they're talking
about advise you, but I'll stick by the "best you can afford"
recommendation.

Andy, [e-mail]


END AEROBLADE REVIEWS

RACING SKATES


Bauer XR10's
------------

From: [e-mail] (JDGilardi)
Subject: Re: 5 wheel foot/skate break-in
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 1994 17:17:11 GMT

In article ([e-mail]), [e-mail]
(Mark Steph) wrote:

> I bought a pair of Bauer XR/10's a little over a month ago and
> have been in severe pain ever since.  I'm a (reasonably)
> experienced and (reasonably) fast skater on 4 wheels and was
> looking forward to an upgrade.  Now, even after several weeks of
> skating almost every day, I still am not nearly as fast on the
> Bauers as I was on my 4 wheels.
>
> I also have terrible blisters (and have to tape my feet up
> everytime I skate).  Skating on the Bauers is sort of a chore.
>
> At this point I'm trying to decide if:
> a) my feet still need a break-in to get used to the boot.
> b) the boot still needs a break-in.
> c) the size/style/whatever of the skate just doesn't fit
>    me and I should hang them up/try something else.
>
> Any clues?  Anyone want to make me an offer on slightly used
> XR/10's?

The unfortunate fact is that Bauer XR10's are about the most poorly
designed skate ever made, despite the flashy looks.  One thing you might do
is call Bauer on their 800# and give them a rash of shit, but I doubt
they'll do a thing - they really don't stand behind their products well at
all.  Basically, the boot offers no flexibility in the ankle, making it
impossible to lean forward or bend the knees.  If you want to skate in an
upright position, they might be OK, but this is a racing skate.  One thing
you might try is to not tie the laces through the top two eyelets.  This'll
give you some forward flexibility, but will cut back on your lateral
support as well.  You'll also have to work on voluntarily keeping your heel
down as the boot does a poor job of this as well.  The lacing thing is
definitely a temporary measure, and I would suggest that if you cant take
them back to who you bought them from, to just buy new boots.

Do not attempt to break in your feet, you can do permanent damege to them
and plastic boots do no break in themselves!  I managed to get out of the
XR-10 nightmare by getting lucky and having one break on me (heel bolt
pulled out).  I sent them back and Bauer replaced them with a new pair
which I traded in for a different skate.  The same thing could happen to
you.


From: [e-mail] (Kimon Papahadjopulos)
Subject: Re: Performance 5-wheelers

[e-mail] (Carl Castrogiovanni) writes:

>I'm considering Performance Bike Shop's 5 wheel high tops (alternative to
>Racerblades).  Anyone have experience with these (and can share opinions)?

I happened to be in a Performance Bike shop the other day, and I must say
I was not impressed by either their high end bikes, or their high end
skates.

The 5 wheelers were a high top plastic boot with an I-5 frame.
Ick.  I didn't check to the weight, but for that set up it had better
be pretty cheap.  Reasons?

1.  There is not much point in getting hightops with 5 wheels unless you have
some sort of ankle problem.  It's sort of like getting a racing road bike
with mountain bike tires.

2.  The I-V frame is a bargain basement frame (costs about $45 for the
frames alone, I think).  Superior Skate Co. has made improvements since I
had a pair, but when I used them they bent very easily and were a royal
pain when it came to switching wheels.

> Any other high top 5 wheelers out there besides these two brands?

Take a look at the Baur 5-wheeler.  It seems to be one of the better
cruiser skates.

Kimon

--

In article ([e-mail]) [e-mail] writes:
>Can anyone give me information on brands of 5-wheel skates, besides
>racerblades, that are available?  I'd very much appreciate any info at
>all.
>
>M. P. Bunds, U. C. Davis

The good news is that there are models from many different manufacturers.  I
have heard of models from Bauer, SwitcHit, Riedell, Rollerblade (Racerblade
plus the Pro Racer), Viking (A very good European ice speed-skating
manufacturer), Bont (Australian ice), etc.  There also is a movement for
manufacturers to sell racing boots with a pair of threaded bolts to attach
either blades or runners for wheels. Yeah! Standardization!

The bad news is that I've never seen anything other than the Racer in retail
markets.You're going to have to either travel to someone who sells the skates
or do it via mail-order. Marty Hill of Built for Speed sells stuff out of his
house in Syracuse, NY. Dave of SMR sports ([phone]) does the same out
of Riverside, IL. SoH ([phone]) was planning to sell the SwitcHit
5-wheeler when it became available.

If at all possible, I'd go in person to one of these stores and make sure you
find someone knowledgable about the long skates. You might be leary of SoH,
since they appear to have a pretty cozy arrangement with SwitcHit.

Have you tried the Racer? It's a bit on the heavy end for a 5-wheeler, but is
very robust and probably a good skate to start out on racing. (Heck, any of
the faster 4-wheelers are fine, too!) Some Rollerblade demo vans have the
Racer available; you can try a pair there. Some very good racers are winning
races on the Racerblade.

One other piece of good news: Rod Murillo, a member of Team Krypto, is now
reading alt.skate. Welcome! He's far more qualified to talk about racing
than I am; he might have some suggestions for you.

Phil Earnhardt          [e-mail]

-----

From: [e-mail]
Date: 13 Nov 91 23:06:25 GMT

I got some new racing skates about 2 months ago. I love them!!! I tryed
on Zanstras and Racerblades. Looked into Bauer and leather boots (from
Built for Speed). After all my looking...I bought Ultras from Sventech
in Seattle (sold by Ultra).

Here are thoughts that might help others who are looking at racing skates.

Zanstras

There are three problems with Zanstras, from my point of view. Firstly,
the bearings "seem" really cheap. They aren't as smooth as I would like
and they make too much noise. Secondly, the boot is really
uncomfortable. A number of racers have complained that they bind the top
of their feet too much. In fact, some people cut out the sizes of their
boots. I found this true when I tryed them on. Finally, my size (6-6
1/2) only comes with four wheels....great why buy racing skates. The
good thing about Zanstras is that they are pretty light.

Racerblades

The Racerblades are really comfortable! It's like riding in pillows.
However, it's also like using a limo in a road race. They felt too
big and heavy (though I don't really remember their weight). Once I felt
the weight, I knocked them off the list...so I can't comment on the
bearings or wheels.

Bauer

As with the Zanstras, the Bauers don't have 5 wheels in my size.
However, the boot looked really comfortable. I knocked them out as soon
as I heard about the wheel limit.

Leather Boots

Sorry...I may be into skating....but I would like to try and stay out of
the poor house. I was looking at spending $700 to $800 for leather
boots. Maybe if I ever get close to beating Karen Edwards or the other
top women skaters, I'll think about it...but I think that will take more
than just new skates.

Ultras

The Ultras have a titanium frame. The lengths come in 13, 14 and 15
inches. The boots are very comfortable (I can usually keep them on for
three hours before they bother me). The boot fit is like the Racerblades
with a buckle and wide fit, but the shell is very light. The boot can be
molded to your foot with a dryer or hot water. In a rough estimate,
with 5 wheels they are about the same weight as my 4 wheel
Rollerblade 608s.

I guess what finally made the sale..was Bancroft hill in Berkeley. I can
jam down Bancroft without any shaking. The ride is very smooth. The
bearings are smooth and fast. By the by...they come with Hyper Wheeles.

The only problem is...no brake. So, I may not need it for racing....but
I would like one for working out. Berkeley drivers don't know what to do
with a skater.

I guess my advise is...try on everything (in your price range). Some
people swear by skates I rejected. What everyone is looking for in a
skate is different. I wanted good low weight racing skates.

Still plowing down hills....

betsy

By-the-by, does anyone know of something to put on road rash (second
skin or the likes)?

-----

From: Donn Baumgartner, [e-mail]

I can recommend the Xandstra Skeelers, which are available locally from
Riedel, without hesitation.  I have used these skates on the OMRA circuit
for the last two years and am very pleased with them.

I have the Xandstra 6000 - but got it directly from Walter Xandstra a few
years ago when he came to the New York race.  I use the Hyper 80mm wheels...
and prefer the harder (82A) wheels, but many racers prefer the 78A's and
even the 75A's.  Personal preference... but the harder wheels hold up a
little longer.

There are many shops nationally that carry this (and many more) inline
skates... such as:

        Competition Skates                Trailways Skate Rental
        c/o John Skelton                  c/o Tom Sehlhorst
        501 Springville Cr.               611 Palm Bluff
        Birmingham AL 35215               Clearwater FL 33515
        [phone]                    [phone]

        Montrose Skate                    Shop Skate Escape
        c/o John McKay                    c/o Janice Phillips
        1406 Stanford                     1086 Piedmont Ave
        Houston TX 77019                  Atlanta GA 30309
        [phone]                    [phone]

I've done phone/mail/direct business with every one of these shops... they
are all reputable.  Competition Skates and Trailways Skate are both run by
active members of OMRA (Outdoor Marathon Rollerskating Association), and both
John and Tom are racing 'experts' (in some sense).

And a final comment... get a subscription to Speedskating Times... for $15/year
it's the best thing going.  Dave Cooper, Eddy Matzger, and Marty Hill regularly
write articles in it.

-----

From: [e-mail] (Michael Peters)
Message-ID: ([e-mail])
Date: 10 Mar 92 13:41:32 GMT

las writes:
>I'm planning to buy a pair of speed inline skates. Need advice as
>to which brand I should purchase. Would like a skate under $350.00.

For under $350.00, if it's a racing skate you want, I would check
out the Bont skate packages that Special Equipment C0. has to offer.
(Phone:[phone])  They have Bont Sharkie boots with Zandstra
frames, wheels and German bearings for $315.  These are leather
boots with fiberglass counters that you heat and mold to your foot.
This is a much hotter setup for speed than buying a citizen racing
skate, that has gobs of padding inside, i.e. Racerblade or Bauer
XR-10, besides they're cheaper too.  The last I heard the XR-10 may
go for $385 and the Rollerblade Pro-Blade $450.  The Rollerblade
Racerblade is in your range, but it's a bit heavy, though if you
don't skate that much, you may like the additional support that the
Racerblade gives.

[e-mail] ...!uunet!ncrcom!wtcp!mpeters



From: [e-mail]
Subject: re: Racing Boot/Frame questions
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1993 12:39:21 GMT


In article ([e-mail]) [e-mail] (Shawn Gramm
er) writes:
>I'm gonna get into racing and I have the following questions:
>
>1) What is the net opinion of the Bont Bluebottom/Powerline frame combination?
>2) What is a good price for each of these items?
>3) I was recently talking to a racer who had this combination, and she was
>showing me how her boot is angled slightly on the frame.  That is, if her left

>frame is pointing straight up, her boot is pointing slightly off center to the

>left (relative to the frame).  She said that it improved power.  To me it
>would seem to decrease the power.  What is the opinion of orienting the boot
>this way?


My son used the Bont Bluebottom for 1/2 a season of indoor racing, the boot
broke down before the end of the season.  He bought it used, which could be
the problem.  I've seen a lot of racers using the PowerLine and they like
it.  You may want to check into the new suregrip frames....

On the offset.... she is an indoor racer right????? they will offset that
for the power ... they get a better edge on the corners... both my
son's and the vast majority of our team do this.... They skate for
the Waterbury Skate Club in CT.



From: ([e-mail]) David Lowe
Subject: Re: Inlines:  Aspiring racer wants 5-wheeler info
Date: 17 Nov 1993 18:48:58 GMT

I find your questions much the same as some of mine but I can tell
you what I have found out and believe in.  First about the bearings issue.
I have found that a bearing contructed with a solid outer face as
hartfords tend to resist the buildup of dirt a dust much better than an
open face bearing like most fafners.  I beleive that bones make a fairly
well selled bearing which is considered one of the best for durability
in the speed skating community.  Hartfords are usually found in low end
or rentals and are durable but probably not a good competitive bearing.

For plates I have found that most skaters perfer the extend 5 wheel
plate which will accomodate wheels larger than  a 76mm.  Most people I
have talked with find little difference perforance wise between the
availible inline plates.

For boots I can only tell you what ive seen.  I personally have found that
about half of the top skaters I know of skate on bonts.  Most do not
get the blue bottom bonts because they seem more likely to crack
under pressure.  Most are skating on the yellow bottom huster boot by bonts

I have the yellow hustler bont boot, labeda extreme edge plate, bones
bearings and a soft hockey wheel for training purposes.  I have yet to
purchase wheels but am likely to get the green ones comprable to
cherry bombs.



From: [e-mail] (David Lowe)
Subject: Re: Racing Boot/Frame questions
Date: 17 Nov 1993 19:18:36 GMT

>From: [e-mail] (Shawn Grammer)
>Subject: Racing Boot/Frame questions
>Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1993 19:00:28 GMT

>I'm gonna get into racing and I have the following questions:
>1) What is the net opinion of the Bont Bluebottom/Powerline frame combination?

Bont Bluebottoms have been known to crack due to stress over a peroid of time.
The Bont Hustler boot (yellow bottoms) seem to be stronger and less likely
to crack.  They also usually cost less and come predrilled ( a big plus).


>2) What is a good price for each of these items?

Shop around you can usually get the best deal buy buy all your parts at once.
rember that if you purchase your skates non-local then don't expect your local
dealers to help you much if you have problems.  Your best bet is to find
the best price then ask your local dealers to match it if you can.


>3) I was recently talking to a racer who had this combination, and she was
>showing me how her boot is angled slightly on the frame.  That is, if her left
>frame is pointing straight up, her boot is pointing slightly off center to the
>left (relative to the frame).  She said that it improved power.  To me it
>would seem to decrease the power.  What is the opinion of orienting the boot
>this way?

I think she is right on the money.  By moving the right foot plate left of
center you but your center of gravity on the ball of the right. So when
you are stroking in a tight corner your can step easier and further with your
left foot before having to but it down.  With the right plate in the center it
seems that the right skate trys to get out from under you before you can
step out with you left foot.  Most everyone I skate with has their right plate
adjusted as your friend does  :-)

David Lowe [e-mail]



From: [e-mail] (Kimon Papahadjopulos)
Subject: Re: Racing Boot/Frame questions
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1993 03:59:39 GMT

[e-mail] (Shawn Grammer) writes:

>1) What is the net opinion of the Bont Bluebottom/Powerline frame combination?

Acceptible for competitive racing.

>2) What is a good price for each of these items?

Off the top of my head, $200-$250 for the frames, $300-$350 for the boots.

>3) I was recently talking to a racer who had this combination, and she was
>showing me how her boot is angled slightly on the frame.  That is, if her left

>frame is pointing straight up, her boot is pointing slightly off center to the

>left (relative to the frame).  She said that it improved power.  To me it
>would seem to decrease the power.  What is the opinion of orienting the boot
>this way?

Its personal preference.  Some people like their frames inset.  I personally
think inseting your frames unevenly is usually to compensate for bad form,
but there are some pretty good racers (Steve Carr for one) who do it.

Kimon


From: [e-mail] (Joseph P. Cernada)
Subject: Review: Performance Competition Skate


Well, I finally got tired of waiting for someone else to order these
skates so I figured I'd order them and see if they were worth keeping.

So, here's the long awaited review of the Performance Bicyling
5-wheel racing skate:

Low cut leather boot, glove leather in the ankle area, ankle stiffener, padded
tongue, laces.  Seems like a typical Performance brand item: well
made, attention to function, but not cosmetically pretty.

76mm, 78A wheels (look like Hypers).  Long wheelbase I-5 frame
(13.375" ?).

Too many parts to the Axles: bolt, nut, metal tube, small tubular
spacer, and two washers (go between the frame and the bearing).

GMN ABEC-3 bearings.  I think they're oiled (either that or they're
using real low temp grease, since it seems to be dribbling out of the
bearings :).

I also got the brake since I do a lot of hills and don't like trashing
my wheels to stop.  The brake frame seems fine, but the stopper itself
seems pretty lame.  Made out of very soft rubber and looks like it
belongs on the bottom of a piece of furniture.  Also, when taking long
strides/strokes, the side of the brake would scrape on the ground.

Weight: 2 7/8 lbs for a size 9.  For comparison, my Ultrawheels
Gretzky Wings weigh 3 3/16 lbs with the same type of wheels.  This is
for one skate, without the brake.

My Gretzkys are the only other skates I've ever used, so I don't have
a lot of reference points.

Took me a day to really get used to skating on these things.  The
weight positioning is very different.  I can put my weight much
further forward than with my 4-wheelers.  Great traction on the turns.
That brake sticks waaaay out; have to be careful on the cross-overs.
The low boot is taking some getting used to.  I have to consciously
think about keeping my ankles straight.

Turning is pretty slow.  I did some cone slaloming (one foot, two
foot, and spread-eagle; 6 foot cone spacings) and maneuverability was
way down.  Tried to do some short stairs, and mostly tripped my way
down.

--
--
Joseph P. Cernada       AIT, Inc.
914/347-6860            50 Executive Blvd.
[e-mail]         Elmsford, New York 10523


From: [e-mail] (Gary W. Mahan)
Subject: Perf. Comp Skate Review

I bought a pair of Performance Competition skates about three months ago
and would like to present a review of these:


I was in the market for a pair of speed skates.  Prices ranged consideribly
from ~300 on up.  As I was not completely sure if I would like speed
skates, I opted to target the lower price range.  I also required a brake.

Last but not least I needed a size 13 (this is always a problem!) and
I wanted to try them on before purchasing.


So I went out and purchased a set of Performance Competition skates:

Price $299 for the skate (Seen on sale for $249)
      $19 for the brake pad assembly

Wheels: Performance Brand (look EXACTLY like hyper 76mm 78A's to me).

Bearings: ABEC3 Nonservicable (unless you remove a shield).
          They really used a light grease or oil on these as
          they spun forever right out of the box.

Frame: I-5 (adjustable positioning) one of the lower priced frames
       but to be expected in this price range.

Axle: 2-piece Aluminium spacers/axle retainers with one long bolt going
      through the center.  This system is comparable to the
      axle kits/hopup kits available.  No reduction in bearing
      spin if the axles are too tight (I really tested this one!)

Boot: Leather, some ventilation, all laces, plastic inserts/liner in boot for
      ankle support and lower foot support.

Brake: Metal assembly which bolts to frame.  Repacement pads are
       ONLY available through mail order and are ~$5 a piece.
       Toe stops from Quad skates may also be used is one
       so chooses (they bolt right on).
       The original brake SEEMS to last forever.

Initial Problems: Wrench supplied was not correct size.
                  The bolt and nut supplied with the Brake assembly were
                  mismatched causing me to stip both.  I went down to
                  the local hardware store and bought replacements (Cost $1).


My initial skating sessions with these skates were very painful.  The boots
did not fit quite perfectly to my feet eventhough the seemed fine in the
store.  A hair dryer was used to soften the plastic liner in the appropriate
places.  This worked very well.

The lack of ankle support took a while to get used to (compared to my Macro
EQ's).  Once my ankles strenghtened, this was not a problem.  I initially
compensated for this ankle problem by adjusting the chassis to the outside
of the skate (so my skates would angle inward).  This provided some added
stability.  I have slowly moved the chassis inward as my ankles and
technique improved.  Ankle support straps (Lazy Legs) could be used to help
with the ankle support.

The brake for this skate works quite well once it is broken it.  It can be
really scary before it is broken it (as most brakes are).  The Pad seems
to last a VERY long time compared to my RB pad on my macros. I think I don't
brake quite as much as I used to so this might be the reason.  The overall
braking performance is not as good as my macros but still acceptable.
Because of the lack of ankle support and longer wheelbase, braking required
more ankle muscle than with my macros.

Overall, the transition to the skates was tough (for me) but well worth the
effort.  These type skates REALLY force you to use good technique which has
trickled down to skating on my macros.  The added flexibility at the ankle
is actually much more comfortable once you get used to it.

As a side note, the bearings never seem to get dirty on these skates.  I
guess this is because the open frame chassis allow lots of air circulation.
The washer used between the wheel and the frame might also limit dirt
accumulation around the bearing.


From: [e-mail] (Anthony Chen)
Subject: INLINE:  difference between frames? boots, wheels, etc.
Date: 18 Feb 1994 06:48:01 GMT

Okay, hope this post provides some break from the olympic traffic.
Should be enough questions here to generate a few in-line posts
hopefully 8-)

1) What's the main difference between all the tiered frames?  Is there
   any significant differences?  I'm just curious, from looking at the
   Raps Edgemaster, Mogemas, LaBeda Extreme Edge, and Powerline frames.
   I know some of these vary in material, Al vs. Ti vs. Mg or whatever.
   Is one preferrable to the others?  There are various grades of
   each material, I know that much.

I'm looking to get some low-end 5-wheelers, so probably I'll start
out with some cheapo I-5 frames, but eventually I may want to move
up to a better frame.  Is the drilling/mounting incompatible if I
want to switch from a flat frame to a tiered one?

I'm not intending on doing competitive races (not yet anyway), mainly
long distance trips.  In particular, I'd like to do the Athens-Atlanta
race/trip this upcoming October (anyone have a specific date?) so I
figure I better start getting ready right now 8-)  I don't figure to be
real fast.  I just wanna finish 8-)

2) Also, any opinions on the Airlite XL boots?  These are molded
   polyurethane boots, laces with a small cuff buckle.  Low cut.

   I was told the Riedell 201TS boot doesn't fit very well.  The
   401TS's fit very well apparently, but for much more money.  Can
   anyone confirm about the 201s?  This is from the guys over at Inline
   USA.

   I'd get some Bont Sharkies or Hustlers except I was told they're not
   as comfortable over fairly long distances?  (Bluebottoms have a rep
   for cracking under pressure, correct?)

3) One other thing, I notice Hyper Redlines come in large and small hub
   versions.  Is it a significant difference, the amount of cooling you
   get from a bigger hub?  I assume you get more wear out of the small
   hub wheels, of course.

4) Also, how much diff between ABEC-3 and ABEC-5?  I'm skating on ABEC-1
   Bones which already seem darn fast.  A good idea to jump to ABEC-5s
   for the 5-wheelers?  I do have some cushion money wise, so if I can gain
   some significant performance I'm willing to pay for it.

5) One last thing, how do the varying axle types vary?  I notice that
   Mogema style axles are apparently different enough to warrant Airlite
   frames to have a specific model for those type of axles.  The racing
   axles are similar to hop-up kits, no?


From: [e-mail] (Michael Peters)
Subject: Re: INLINE:  difference between frames? boots, wheels, etc.
Date: 21 Feb 94 17:49:32 GMT

In article (2k1ob1$[e-mail]) [e-mail] writes:
>   I was told the Riedell 201TS boot doesn't fit very well.  The
>   401TS's fit very well apparently, but for much more money.  Can
>   anyone confirm about the 201s?  This is from the guys over at Inline
>   USA.

An acquantance of mine said that her 201's were very uncomfortable.

>3) One other thing, I notice Hyper Redlines come in large and small hub
>   versions.  Is it a significant difference, the amount of cooling you
>   get from a bigger hub?  I assume you get more wear out of the small
>   hub wheels, of course.

Hyper's latest racing wheel is the 'Shock'.  The top three finishers at
Athens-Atlanta were on Shocks.  I just picked up some 80mm-81A Shocks
last Sunday, but I haven't had a chance to try them outside yet.


>4) Also, how much diff between ABEC-3 and ABEC-5?  I'm skating on ABEC-1
>   Bones which already seem darn fast.  A good idea to jump to ABEC-5s
>   for the 5-wheelers?  I do have some cushion money wise, so if I can gain
>   some significant performance I'm willing to pay for it.

Personally, I think ABEC 3's are the way to go.  The ABEC-5's are pretty
expensive and after a little wear and dirt, that fine precision is gone.
At the speed that our wheels are spinning, I had heard that the 3's are
all that we really need.
>
>5) One last thing, how do the varying axle types vary?  I notice that
>   Mogema style axles are apparently different enough to warrant Airlite
>   frames to have a specific model for those type of axles.  The racing
>   axles are similar to hop-up kits, no?

The Powerline axles are similar to the Mogema's (me thinks?).  They are
aluminum with a slotted end that locks into a counter sunk hole on the
outside of the frame.  An aluminum spacer slides over the axle between
the bearings.  The aluminum axle sinks into the inside of the opposite
frame wall.  They are held into place by a counter sunk allen head type
of screw.  The axles are solid, other than the drilled and tapped end.


From: [e-mail] (Plant a tree today! ---;*] )
Subject: Re: INLINE:  difference between frames? boots, wheels, etc.
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 1994 03:47:47 GMT

Anthony Chen ([e-mail]) wrote:
: I'm looking to get some low-end 5-wheelers, so probably I'll start
: out with some cheapo I-5 frames, but eventually I may want to move
: up to a better frame.  Is the drilling/mounting incompatible if I
: want to switch from a flat frame to a tiered one?

If their prices haven't gone up much, try the suregrip airlites.  When I
bought mine, they were only $30-40 more than the bendable I-5s.

:    I was told the Riedell 201TS boot doesn't fit very well.  The
:    401TS's fit very well apparently, but for much more money.  Can
:    anyone confirm about the 201s?  This is from the guys over at Inline
:    USA.
The fit depends on your foot type.  The 201s are more forgiving if you
have a medium to wide foot.  I have some good info for anyone trying to
break in a pair of 201s.  I'd post, but I don't want to was bandwidth if
nobody is interested.
:    I'd get some Bont Sharkies or Hustlers except I was told they're not
:    as comfortable over fairly long distances?  (Bluebottoms have a rep
:    for cracking under pressure, correct?)
Heard the same.
: 4) Also, how much diff between ABEC-3 and ABEC-5?  I'm skating on ABEC-1
:    Bones which already seem darn fast.  A good idea to jump to ABEC-5s
:    for the 5-wheelers?  I do have some cushion money wise, so if I can gain
:    some significant performance I'm willing to pay for it.
You will realize more difference by packing your bones with some fancy
oil (everyone has their opinion on what works best).  The difference
between ABEC-1s and ABEC-3 or 5s is measured in thousandths of an inch.
Unless you are planning do over 80 mph (has been done), you won't notice
the difference.



  __________________________________________________________________________


In-line Product Review Sheet

   Fill out each question as completely as possible. There's no rush to
   turn these things in, so if you have to wait a couple days, couple
   weeks, a month, whatever, then take your time. The goal here is to
   provide as much information and informed opinions as possible. Thanks.


   If you're reviewing a skate, please try and cover all features, like
   wheels, bearings, braking systems, wheel-rockering systems, liners,
   fasteners (laces, buckles, combo), chassis (the shell and runners),
   plus any other neat/adjustable features.

    1. Review by:
    2. Product type: (skate, safety gear, wheel, bearing, clothing*,
       accessory**)
    3. Brandname:
    4. Model name/number:
    5. Purchase price:
    6. From local store or mail order: (name the store too, with the
       address and phone number if it's a local store, otherwise just
       name the mail-order shop)
    7. Date purchased:
    8. How long have you used it:
    9. Pros: (list good features)
   10. Cons: (list not-so-good features and possible improvements it
       could use)
   11. Additional comments:
   12. My personal rating: 1 to 10 (10 being the best)



   *any sort of fanny/water packs go here; more luggage-sized stuff goes
   in accessories.
   **use accessories as the catch-all, when it's none of the previous
   types
     _________________________________________________________________



   -Tony Chen ([e-mail])

   *This image is Copyrighted - 1994 by Anthony D. Chen. Permission is
   granted to use this logo in World Wide Web HTML files so long as this
   copyright notice is included as either an HTML comment alongside the
   invokation (IMG SRC or HREF or otherwise) of the logo, or in the
   visible text.

   The image may not be sold for profit, nor incorporated in commercial
   documents or merchandise without prior written permission of the
   copyright holder.


     _________________________________________________________________

   TOC #1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #6 #7 #8 #9 #10 #11 PICS
Posted-By: auto-faq 3.1.1.2
Archive-name: rec-skate-faq/part6


   Rec.skate Frequently Asked Questions: Part 6
     _________________________________________________________________

   [IMAGE] *

               REC.SKATE FAQ - PART 6: WHERE TO SKATE (INDOORS)


(last changed: Jan 3, 1995)

This portion of the FAQ covers places to skate indoors, both rinks and
extreme skate parks.  This list was originally compiled by Albert Boulanger
and has since been sorted out and slightly revised by Amy Ryan.  If you have
any additions or corrections to this document, please [e-mail]

                               TABLE OF CONTENTS

Rinks:
     * West Coast and Hawaii
          + California
          + Oregon
     * Rocky Mountains
          + Colorado
     * Northeast
          + Deleware
          + Massachusetts
          + New Jersey
          + Pennsylvania
          + Virginia
          + Washington DC
     * Great Lakes
          + Illinois
          + Indiana
          + Michigan
     * South
          + Florida
          + Texas
Extreme Skate Parks:
     * Illinois
     * Canada


Rinks




  WEST COAST AND HAWAII



    California

From:  Randal L. Schwartz,
Someone asked about rinks... My fav was Aloha Skate Palace in South
San Jose (or something like that) on a Monday night.  Great songs,
good crowd.  Cal Skate in Milpitas was also good, and they had a wood
floor (not the silly blue stuff that is so prevalent now).
-----
From: [e-mail]      Mark L. Fussell

My favorite is Moonlight Rollerway in Glendale: it is close, has a large enough
rink, and has nice skaters/management.

Approximate hours (I am removing the half hours, so 8 may actually be 7:30):
   Wed,Fri: 3-5        --  This is a "kid" session, but is not at all crowded,
                           so ideal for "fancy skating".

   Sat,Sun: ?1-3,3-5   --  Crowded "kid" sessions

   Fri,Sat: 8-10,10-12 --  Crowded Adult/Teenage sessions, Modern music
   Thu:     8-10       --  ?? A less crowded Adult/Teenage session,
                           possibly more Adults

   Wed:     8-10       --  Dance session, Organ Music (open to everyone,
                           but has a lot of dance-pairs, and about
                           20 minutes of organised dances).

   Tue:     8-10       --  Never been: think it is adult with ?? jitterbug,
                           disco, modern music ??

   Sun:     8-10       --  Gay night, open to anyone (who doesn't mind the
couples, and a couple dances you might not want to join). I've never been, but
I know straight people who do go.

--
West Covina's hours should be similar to Glendale, although I know the rinks in
the area rotate some of the special adult sessions with each other. West Covina
has more people, and a big center area for spot Rexxing.
--
San Gabriel may also be similar to Glendale, but I wouldn't recommend it
because of the small floor, and no one that I have met ever suggested it.
--
I'll send you the exact addresses/phone numbers later.
Friends from skating have recommended North Hollywood, Reseda, and several othe
r
places, but I don't know anything beyond that. If you go to one of the adult
sessions at Glendale there will be several people to ask.

-----
Subject: Any good rink roller skaing in greater (Northern) LA?
Thanks for your input. Here is the info I had for LA (that is not on
your list -- spelling questionable):

Reseda: Sherman Square Roller Rink.
18430 Sherman Way. 818 345-6902
(Thursday 8:30-1:30)

Grand Terrace: Calif Skate
22080 Indust(?)  824-8114

San Bernadino: Stardust RR
2167 N Lugo      883-1103

Torrance: Shamrock
1851 Mullin Ave  328-7150

Riverside: Calif Skate
12710 Magnolia Ave   354-7060

Montclair: Holiday RR
9191 Central Ave     626-0501/982-9150

Saugus: Skate in Place
21616 Golden Triangle Rd  255-8453

Bakersfield:

  Rollerama
  1004 34th  [phone]

  Skateland
  415 Ming Av 831-5537

  Starlight
  30 Kentucky 322-5661

  Rollertown
  2200 Wibble Rd 833-2525

-----
From: "Rebecca Y. Shen"
Subject: Re: Any good rink roller skaing in greater (Northern) LA?

The following are the addresses:
   Glendale    -- Moonlight Rollerway, 5110 San Fernando Rd.
                  818.241-3630
   San Gabriel -- Fiesta Roller Rink, 136 S. San Gabriel Bl.

                  818.287-6669
   West Covina -- Skate Junction, 901 W. Service Ave.
                  818.960-4402

also names from the White Pages (so possibly not rinks):
   Cerritos    -- Skate Depot, 11113 E-183rd
                  310.924-0911
   Whittier    -- Skateland, 12520 E. Whittier Blvd.
                  310.693-9618


Also, I saw in an ad the Moonlight claims both Tuesday and
Wednesday are Organ Music, so I may have been wrong about Tuesday
nights, or the ad may be out of date.
-----
From: [e-mail] (george atkins)
Subject: Re: Any good rink roller skaing in greater (Northern) LA?

In the Bay Area (San Francisco, not Hudson) there are a handful of skating
rinks, though not as many as one would think, probably because the weather is
mild year-round.

The closest rink to San Fracisco is the Rolladium in San Mateo, about a twenty
minute drive south from the City.  Right off of Hwy 101 and real convenient to
the airport (in case you can't wait and want to skate right off the plane.)
It has a wood floor and a very nice sound system.  Friendly regulars, but not
very crowded for some reason.  They've played funky music the times I've been
there, but I've only been on Tuesday nights. [phone]

In Milpitas there is Cal Skate at I-680 and Hwy 237.  I've never been there but

I hear Wednesday and Sunday nights are wild.  I hear they play a lot of hip hop
,
have a polyurethane floor and a host of excellent skating regulars to pick
things up from (big dance scene in the middle.)  Milpitas is about 35 miles
south of  Oakland in the East Bay, but very convenient to San Jose. (510) 946-
1366

Next up there is Golden Skate in San Ramon.  I was there for adult night.  The
floor is nice and they played some nice music, but too much heavy metal for
my tastes (makes everybody skate real fast and fall down a lot.)  It's a good
45 minute drive from the City. Way out in the 'burbs.  [phone]

I've heard nice things about the Aloha Roller Palace in San Jose at 397 Blossom
Hill Rd. off of Hwy 101.  I've never been there but I've heard that it's a real
skate scene, especially on Friday nights.  The place is said to be large.  Not
sure what the floor is made of, but if you're going to San Jose give them a
call and you can tell me! [phone] (message line) or 226-1155

But the ultimate skating experience in the Bay Area in my opinion is Golden
Gate Park on Sundays.  the park is closed to traffic on that day (certain agent
s
are trying to close it on Saturdays, too.)  The weather is great (actually
better in the winter than the summer it seems)  And there are *tons* of skaters

cruising up and down the roads, in-line and quad, as well as skate boards,
bicycles, horses (well, okay, only the police.)  There's a wild dance scene at
6th Ave from noonish until dark. (Bay Area skaters - am I right?)  There are tw
o
places I know of that rent skates that are walking distance to the park; Skates

on Haight and Magic Skate at Fulton and 6th.  Be there or be square!



    Oregon

From: [e-mail] (Randal Schwartz)
Subject: Re: Hillsboro (Oregon) Roller Rink destroys music format

In article  [e-mail]
writMes:
|Since I haven't been into a rink for a few months, I can't comment on the
|music they might be playing... but our local rink has a sunday night adult
|skate and the stuff they were playing is pretty much 70s/80s stuff with a
|few oldies and current pop (top-40) thrown in.

that'd be cool, probably.  I keep thinking that "adult" music is stuff
from the 60's.  I forget I'm getting older. :-)

|Hmmm... I spend a week in Oregon a year or two ago when BiiN was trying to
|make a product offering and I tried one or two of the rinks there... and I
|forget, but I don't think I made it to the Hillsboro rink because they had
|a "soul" night the night I was ready to go... but, I thought I went down
|to the Oaks (in the Oaks Amusement Park) and they had this enormous pipe
|organ... I can't imagine them playing things you can't dance to... although
|maybe pipe organ music may be a bit much if that is ALL they play.  I don't
|remember, but it wasn't that crowded and I was able to practice my spins
|even though they didn't allow me to practice any jumps.
|
|Are they still open?  Is that a viable rink?  :-)

BiiN!  Hey, I was a contractor there during its entire existance (well,
at least until they killed all the contractors in one fell swoop).

Hillsboro still has a "soul" session on Wednesday nights.  I haven't
gone back to see if they've ruined that one too.

Oaks is still there.  It'd better be.  It's the oldest and largest rink
in the Pacific Northwest (since 1920-something, I think).  They still
play the old pipe organ (the pipes hang over the center of the rink) on
some sessions, but Friday and Saturday nights are top-40 from records
(and maybe CDs).  I attend a "private" session there on Sunday nights which
is mostly rap-ified soul (and some good stuff too :-).  It's run by a private
group (the "Rose City Rhythm Rollers") and it's for members only, so we
can pretty much play what we want (well, OK, what the DJ wants :-).

But one nearly-good session a week isn't enough to keep me tuned up or
in shape.  Sigh.  Down from 10 hours a week to 2.2 hours.  Not good.

-----


  ROCKY MOUNTAINS



    Colorado

From: [e-mail] (Albert Boulanger)
Subject: Re: Speed (Now Denver area rinks)
Date: 20 Apr 92 10:52:44

In article  [e-mail]
(Philip A. Earnhardt) writes:

   You should hook up with a speed program. There are speed roller skating
   programs at the rink in Longmont, CO, and a couple of rinks in Colorado
   Springs. I'd guess there's at least one in Denver; ask around.

Can you post the names of the rinks you know of in the area? (For
potential roller skating visitors to the front range?)
There is a rink off of Coal Mine Rd in South Denver that I have
visited. It is called Starport as I recall. Other names that I have
for the Denver area:

Skate City  -- Aurora    344-3321
               Arapahoe  770-2223
               Littleton 795-6109
               Meadowood 690-1444
Rollerama                288-0502
Starport       S Denver  972-4433
US on Wheels             ???
Roller City              ???


Travel, will skate,
Albert Boulanger
[e-mail]
From: Charlie Brett

There are 2 US on Wheels and Roller City rinks.
   US on Wheels      -- Denver      [phone]
   US on Wheels      -- Westminster [phone]

   Roller City North -- Thornton    [phone]
   Roller City West  -- Denver      [phone]

Also, in Northern Colorado there are:

   Roller Land       -- Ft. Collins [phone]
                        Particle Board with plastic floor.
                        Has 2 posts in the center of the floor.

   Skate Castle      -- Loveland    [phone]
                        Small asphalt with plastic floor.

   Warnoco West      -- Greeley     [phone]
                        Hardwood with clear plastic floor.
                        Large floor with mitered corners.
                        Adult night on Sunday (8-10:30)

   Warnoco North     -- Greeley     [phone]
                        One of (if not the) oldest rinks in Colorado.
                        Large hardwood floor with bent corners.
                        Clear plastic coating.
                        Only open Friday and Saturday evenings.

In Colorado Springs:

   Skate City        -- [phone]
                        Large asphalt with plastic floor.
                        Adult night Sundays (soul night)

   Skate City Austin Bluffs -- [phone]
   (used to be Torchlight)
                        Large particle board with plastic floor.

   Bosanova          -- [phone]
                        Older hardwood with clear plastic.
                        Mitered corners.

It's almost impossible to find an adult night in Colorado. The rinks
that do have them, all seem to have them on Sunday. Most rinks are only
skating 2 or 3 night a week now.

          Charlie Brett - Ft. Collins, CO




  NORTHEAST



    Deleware

Ok, since this seems to include all types of skating (at least with
wheels!) I will make myself know as a rollerskater. My regular indoor
rink is Christiana here in Newark Delaware. Several champion figure
skaters have come from here. I never really paid attention to that fact
until I was skating at a rink in Ohio. A woman asked me where I was
from. After I told here that I usually skate at a rink in Delaware, she
said, "Oh yeah. I have heard of Christiana. [name I don't remember] came
from there."

[e-mail] (George Robbins)

Newark/Christiana/Ogletown  DE

Christiana Skating Center (was Spinning Wheels)
South side Rt 273 just past I-95 intersection
366-0426

Tue    6:30 PM - 9:00 PM    Family Skate
Thu    9:00 PM - 11:00 PM    Adult-16 Skate
Fri    7:00 PM - 9:30 PM
    9:00 PM - 11:30 PM
Sat    8:00 PM - 11:30 PM
Sun    8:00 PM - 11:00 PM    Adult-16 Skate - Top 40 DJ

In-lines allowed, but speed skates are the most popular.
Hardwood - ? - Oval

This is a mid-size rink, in good condition, but with a carpeted
peripheral area.

The ~16 Age limit for the "Adult" skates makes for a largely teen-aged
crowd with an assortement older folk. Still, it is enough to make this
perhaps one of the better top-40/dance sessions in the area.

Skating is generally moderate, fast and faster, mixed with a enough
beginners to serve as sacrificial targets.  Rules relagate backwards
skating, spins and freestyle to the center of the rink, but enforcement
varies depending on the skate guard, whether the manager is watching an
whether it's a pet rink rat or whoever.

I go to the Sunday night session fairly often, it can be fun as long as
you're up for the pace, but many new skaters or drop-ins give up in
disgust before getting acclimated.

This is also on of the rinks where competitions are held, and has
yielded some winners, but apparently the club/lesson/competition
activity is quite separate from the public sesions.

====
Elsmere/Wilmington DE

Elsmere Skating Center
Rt. 2 Elsmere
Under the railroad overpass

Wed    8:00 PM - 10:30 PM    Organ Night
Fri    7:00 PM - 9:30 PM
    9:30 PM - 11:30 PM
Sat    8:00 PM - 12:00 PM    DJ G-Man
Sun    8:00 PM - 12:00 PM    Adult-18 Night - DJ G-Man

Hardwood - ? - Oval?

I've only stopped by here off hours, but this appears to be a nice full
size rink.  Has a bit of a reputation for being a "rough" place, but
this may be the suburban view of a rink serving both urban and
blue-collar neighborhoods.

====


    Massachusetts

From: "Robert E. Brown"
Subject: Re:  Roll-Land

I go to sessions that play "artistic" skating dance music.  In my neck of the
woods:

        Riverdale Rollerworld in Warwick, RI    401-821-2595
        Sunday and Tuesday, 7:30 to 10

        Silver City Skateland, Taunton, MA      508-824-4866
        Sunday 7:30 to 10

        Highland Heights Rink in Tauton, MA     508-824-9363
        Sunday 7:30 to 9:30, Thursday 7 to 9

The last of these is a small rink in a suburban neighborhood run by an elderly
couple who built the rink 40 years ago.  The floor is great and the rink is
almost always empty . . . because of . . .

Silver City, probably the best competitive rink near me.  I've not been to
their dance session.

Riverdale has a nice, but always dirty, floor -- the boards on the ends of
the rink are curved.  The rink has a small competitive club.  It has
popular rock and roll sessions, populated with local kids.  I practice here,
since it's closest.

One of the earliest rinks in the country is also in RI -- since the Newport
rich of old seemed to enjoy rolling around in their mansions after dinner.
I believe this rink is near the Providence airport, but haven't found it
yet.

   From: "Robert E. Brown"
   Subject: Re:  Roll-Land

 One of the earliest rinks in the country is also in RI -- since the Newport
 rich of old seemed to enjoy rolling around in their mansions after dinner.
 I believe this rink is near the Providence airport, but haven't found it
 yet.


We found this rink (Hillsboro Country Club) during a non-session period. They h
a
ve
sessions during the week starting at 7pm. It is located on US1 (2100
Post RD) in Warwick RI. Phone number is 401 737-9828
To: [e-mail]
Subject: skating indoors boston

   I noticed today you posted something in rec.skate about finding a good
   place to skate with good music.  Do you know of any places in the Bostong
   that have good music *and* would allow me to bring my in-lines?  I
   looked up Roller Skating in the Yellow Pages and found two places,
   but I don't know anything about either of them.  Might you?

Nothing compared to NYC. The best is probably the Sunday night session
at Roller Kindgdom in Tyngsboro MA (7:30-11). They allow in-lines that
don't tear up the rink floor as far as I know. Besides Sunday night,
there is a Wednesday night session at Roller Kindgdom in *Hudson* MA
from 7:30-11 and Monday night session at the rink in Beverly (I forget
its name). There are two Thursday night sessions: Tyngsboro MA
(7:30-11) {I go to this} and Roller World in Saugus from 8:30-11. Call
the rinks up.


Phone numbers:

 Tyngsboro 508 649-2440(rec)/649-3439
 Hudson    508 652-3440
 Saugus    617 231-1111
 Beverly   508 927-4242


There are rinks south of Boston (in Tauton for example) that I have
never been to although I have saved some email on them.


    New Jersey

[e-mail] (bill)
Subject: Roller skating rinks (was: Any good rink roller skaing in greater (Nor
t
hern) LA?)
Summary: what I like near south/central NJ

In article  [e-mail] writes:
: (Any good rinks in U.K. or Australia?) I have checked out rinks in
: Denver, Silicon Valley, San Diego, LA, Ft. Lauderdale area,

There are still good rinks in Ft. Lauderdale? That's my home turf
and the rink I started at, Gold Coast, has, I'm told, been
converted to a Salvation Army store or somesuch. Sad; it used to
be the oldest rink in the state. When I left about two years ago,
there wasn't much else in the area.

:  I will take the time out to compile a list if people
: supply me information.

I'm primarily a dance skater, so my evaluations are from that
standpoint. Here are the rinks I've visited since I moved up here.

In Burlington county, New Jersey, there is the Holiday Skating
rink in Delanco, just off 130. It has a very large floor, in
pretty good shape, though not as well maintained as it used to
be. They have a competent, if uninspired, live organist on
Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday evenings. Tuesday is a crowded
session; the other two are fairly peaceful. I hear the organist
also does a late night session Friday (Saturday?) of just R&Rish
music but I've never been to that session.

Down in Gloucester county, there are two rinks. Skater's Choice,
in Hurffville (I think), on 47 near 55, has a decent Wednesday
night organ session. Dave Paden (sp?) plays and he's good. The
rink floor is average size and fairly well maintained. The rink
has a reasonable crowd but one can skate through it.

Speaking of Dave Paden, he also plays at the Cornwells rink. This
is just a bit east of Philadelphia on 13. This is on Tuesdays and
Thursdays. These sessions are not awfully crowded and the folk
are a bit older than in the other sessions I've mentioned. The
floor is average size but not quite as good as the one at
Skater's Choice. (This info is about a year old.)

Back to Gloucester county is the rink I skate out of, the
Deptford rink, just off 47 near 295. Besides having some good
pros, its main claim to fame is NO SMOKING, none at all in the
building. Since most of the other rinks tend to be smokeholes and
I'm allergic to it, I really like that. Unfortunately, it has a
small floor that has definitely seen better days. And the one
organ session they have, on Thursdays, is tapes and very poorly
attended. The tapes aren't very good, either. Sigh. (This is
likely to change; the management is letting some of the club
skaters run the session. With any luck, they'll do better. But if
you are interested in this session, you really should call the
rink instead of just going.)
[e-mail] (George Robbins)
Delanco/Cinaminson/Trenton NJ

Holiday Skating Center
Rt 130 at Creek Rd
Near Holiday Lake/Ice Cream Stand

Tues    8:00 - 11:00        Adult-16/Organ Night
Wed 6:30 - 9:30     DJ (Family?)
Fri 7:30 - 11:00        DJ
Sat 7:30 - 11:00        DJ
    11:00 - 2:00 (AM)   Rock Organ (once/month - call!)
Sun 7:30 - 10:30        Organ Night

Inlines permitted/for rent, but none seen on adult night.
Hardwood - 200'x90' - Oval w/wood surround practice area

This is perhaps the largest rink in the Area.  It's a bit longer and
much wider than usual and still has a large skatable seating area at
one end and wide seating/practice lane down one side.

The Tuesday session features live organ music and is fairly well attended
by a mix of all ages.  There are mid-session and after session artistic
dance skates.



    Pennsylvania

[e-mail] (bill)
Finally, there is the Rollerama rink in Levittown, Pennsylvania,
on 413 between 95 and 1. This had, a year ago anyway, a Sunday
evening session. This rink is also fairly small and the floor
could be in better shape, though it is better than Deptford's.
That session is also just tapes.
-----
During the summer I perform outside at a park near the waterfront in
Philadelphia (Penn's Landing). There is a group that gets together from
around the Philly area to Jam on Sunday afternoons, and many of the
Holidays. If you are ever in Philly on a sunday come on down and see us.
The "stage" is between Society Hill towers and the waterfront. Next to
the Vietnam Memorial.
-----
[e-mail] (George Robbins)
Caln/Thorndale/Downingtown PA

Caln Roller Rink
~1 mile west of Downingtown on business Rt. 30
Behind "Carpet Warehouse" on north side of road.
215-269-6229

Mon    10:30 AM - 12:30 PM    Adult Escape - Lessons
Tues    7:15  PM - 8:00 PM    Adult Beginner/Dance Lessons
    8:00 PM - 11:00 PM    Adult-18 Skate (slower) - Live Organ Music
Wed    6:30 PM - 9:30 PM    Discount Nite
Thur    7:00 PM - 8:00 PM    Advanced Dance Lessons
    8:00 PM - 11:00 PM    Adult-18 Skate (faster) - Live Organ Music
Fri    7:30 PM - 11:00 PM    Open - Top 40 DJ Joe Lamont
Sat    7:30 PM - 11:00 PM    Open - Top 40 DJ Wobbly

Hardwood - 170'x72' Rectanglar
In-lines prohibited...

This is a full size wood rink, kept in good condition.  Peripheral
areas are wood 3/4's of the way around the rink, with a couple wide
areas suitable for practice when not crowded.

Adult skates have traditional skating music by live organist Nick
Viscuso, who is good, but the skate/music schedule seems rigid  with
only occasional seasonal variations.  Open skates are generally crowded
with school age kids, little adult presence.

I'm kind of predjudiced, since this is my home rink, but it seems to be
one of the better managed and has relatively extended hours.  The staff
is fairly strict, but tend to relax once they recognize you.  No firm
rules against backwards skating, but jumps are discouraged.

The biggest problem is the lack of any Adult session other than the
traditional organ music stuff...

====

Villanova/Bryn Mawr/Radnor PA

Villanova Skate Arena (was Radnor Rolls)
Rt. 30 and 320 just west of Villanova
Behind small shopping center northwest corner of 320 intersection
215-527-9293(tape)/527-9294(info)

Monday    9:30 AM - 12:00 N    Adult Artistic & Dance
Tues    7:00 PM - 7:30 PM    Adult Classes
Tues    7:00 PM - 10:00 PM    Adult-18 Skate  - Music Unknown
Fri    4:30 PM - 6:30 PM    After School Skate
    7:00 PM - 11:00 PM    Open - Top 40 DJ
Sat    7:00 PM - 11:00 PM    Open - Top 40 DJ

In-lines allowed and for rent, popular with the kids.
Hardwood - ? - rough surface

This is a mid-size rink, which suffers from a warped surface.  The
worst spots are inside of the normal traffic oval, but still make for
an interesting feel as you pass over the bumps and gullies.  The
peripheral area has a grungy carpet though there is a tiny, dirty
(20'x20'?) practice floor behind the DJ booth.

I've only been here during an open skates, so there were the usual
problems with erratic kids and beginners mixing with faster teens and
a few adults.  Enforcement seemed lax and there were some kids doing
flips and live body/barrel jumps.

Good points are that the staff is new and friendly, and there are
informal (all ages) roller hockey games after the Saturday session.

====

Warrington PA (between Doylestown & Horsham)

Warrington Roller Skating Rink
Rt. 611 at Warrington
East side of 611

Hardwood - ? - Rectangular

I stopped in here during off hours, seems to be a long, narrow rink,
quaint but in pretty nice condition.  Weekend hours only.

====

Lansdale/Hatfield PA

Spin-A-Round Skating Center
Rt 309 north of County Line Rd (Line Lexington)
on hillside overlooking east side Rt. 309

Wed    6:45 PM - 7:30 PM    Beginner Dance Lessons
    7:30 PM - 10:00 PM    Organ Music
Fri    7:30 PM - 10:00 PM    Top 40
Sat    7:30 PM - 10:00 PM    Top 40
    9:30 PM    - 12:00 PM    Top 40
Sun    6:00 PM - 8:30 PM    Family Night - Organ Music

In-line skates prohibited.
Hardwood - ? - Octagonal?

This is a full size rink, but was need of resurfacing.  A wood gangway
surounds the entire rink and snack bar, but isn't really wide enough
for practice.

I've only been here on an open Saturday night when it was snowing, so I
don't know much about the usual crowds.  There aren't any adult nights,
so there's generally a mix of all ages, though the Wednesday night
session feautures "organ music" and may be more elderly.  The Saturday
split session does result the the departure of many of the youngest
skaters at the end of the early session.

Apparently they have a rule limiting backwards skating "inside the red
line" or during backwards skates, but this wasn't being enforced when I
was there due to the small crowd.

====

Aston/Brookhaven PA

CN Skate Palace
Concord Rd. and Rt. 452
just south of the Concord Rd./Rt 452 5-points intersection
215-494-4442(tape)/494-4443

Wed    6:30 PM - 9:00 PM    Family Night
Fri    7:30 PM - 10:30 PM    Open Session
Sat    7:30 PM - 10:30 PM    Rock & Roll

In-line skates permitted.
Hardwood - 160'x60' rectangular

This is a fairly small/narrow rink in a converted suburban movie
theater.  Perhaps as compensation, the floor is in excellent condition
and they even have a wheel-cleaner widget to scrub off the usual
suburban wheel crud.

An intersting feature is that since the floor is built up over a
sloping theatre floor, it's fully suspended making for a nice feel.
Unfortunatly, this doesn't quite make up for the relatively narrow
~60 foot width and kid-goo too often covering the otherwise well
maintained surface.

I've skated here mostly during "family" sessions, which are the usual
zoo-like affairs.  There was a Tuesday night adult-rock session for a
while, but attendance wasn't consistant and it was canceled.

This rink is largely kid/family community oriented, but my skating
instructor calls it  home and they have an atistic/dance club with
exclusive use for some time on Sunday morning and Wednesday night.

====

Northeast Philadelphia PA

Palace Roller Skating Center
11750 Roosevelt Blvd.
East Side, near N. Phila Aiport
215-698-8000

(incomplete!)
Tue    10:00AM - 12:30    Adult-18 Morning Session
Wed    6:30 - 9:00    Family
    9:30 - 11:00    Adult-18
Thu    ? - ?
Friday    7:30 - 11:00    10 & up - Rock
Sat    7:30 - 11:00    10 & up - Rock
    11:30 - 1:30PM    Adult-18

In-line skates permitted.
Hardwood - ~180'x80' Oval

This is a borderline urban rink - not downtown, but in the Northeast
section of the city.  A fairly nice looking facility, but with more
security guards than skate guards.  Also a nice skate shop, but it
closed early and I didn't get a chance to look closely.

I visited on a Friday night and the crowd was almost exclusively
teenaged.  In addition to being fairly crowded and limited to forward
skating some shuffle/couples, some of the younger kids were doing
stupid things.  I got taken down from behind once and pushed several
times - I don't mind crowds, but I prefer rolling freely to dodging
and braking.

There are some late-evening Adult sessions that are supposed to
be pretty good, so I'll have to drop in and see how they compare.

====

Shillington/Reading PA

Skateaway?
Rt 222, South of Shillington

Sun    7:30 PM - 10:30 PM    Adult-Night (Live Organ)

Inlines permitted?
Hardwood - - Rectangular?

This is a medium sized rink near Reading.  I've only been up there once
during the Sunday night Adult session, which was OK, with a live
organist playing fairly up-beat stuff.

===

Harrisburg PA

Hagy's Fountainbleau

Sun    8:00 PM - 11:00 PM (?)    Adult-Night (Live Organ)

Hardwood - ? - Oval

This is another one I've only been to once, for their Annual "corn-roast",
since it's well over an hour from work, but I plan to get up there again
one of these days.

This is an older rink in a building that has a wonderful high ceiling.
In some ways it's kind of quaint, but it's full sized and the floor is
in good condition.  Another interesting feature is a "step-up" seating
area all along one side of the rink.

The owner is apparently one of the founders of the RSROA and there is an
interesting museum aisle with pictures of old rinks, skaters and old
skates, wooden wheels and other curios.

The Sunday night session features live organ music, with at least two
different organists on different weeks.

====


    Virginia


****************************************************************************
>From [e-mail] Fri Apr 23 08:37:14 1993
    These three rinks are in northern Virginia, all three within about a
half hour of Fairfax Virginia (which is about 10 minutes east of Dulles
Airport.)
******************************************************************************

Skate City -- Mathis Rd., Manassas Virginia.     703-361-0425

    From Fairfax, take 28 south to Manassas. Take a right on Liberia
then left at the next traffic light on Mathis. The rink is the third
building on the left, behind a car dealership, and across the street
from a cinema.

    The floor is wood, and in fair condition, and medium to small. Public
sessions are very crowded. Backwards skating was allowed during sessions.
Roller Blades are also allowed.

    There are public sessions most nites from 7 to 10 and there are
some day time sessions, such as an adult skate on Thursday from 10 to noon.
As always, it's best to call before you go to be sure.

****************************************************************************

Skate City USA -- Sudley Rd. Manassas Virginia.        703-361-7465

    This rink is probably managed by the same folks who own Skate City,
because their session schedule sounds very similar. I didn't actually get
to skate here, so I don't have explicit directions, or first hand information
about the rink. However, skaters are Skate City seemed to think the floor at
Skate City USA was bigger than Skate City.

    Again, call for information.

****************************************************************************

Fronconia Roller Rink -- Alexandria Virginia    703-971-3334

    Take exit 3 off 495 (Franconia/Van Dorn exit.) Bear right at the
the traffic light to about the third set of lights which should be
Franconia Rd. Take a left on Franconia, and go about a half to three quarters
of a mile. You will see a Crown Gas station on the left. The rink is behind
the gas station.

    Sessions are nightly 7 to 10 pm, except where there is a private
party. I went in the middle of the week and the session not well attended,
(which was great for practice.) I was told by skaters there, however, that
the weekend sessions are very popular. I don't recall if they allow roller
blades, but they do require toe stops or dance plugs, and will ask to see
your skates when you pay your admission (I wasn't hasseled about my figure
skates, though.)

    The floor is wood and is in pretty nice condition, medium to to small,
but about average size from what I've seen elsewhere around the country.



    Washington DC

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: Good indoor roller skating in the DC area?

In article  [e-mail] (Albert
Boulanger) writes:

   In my forays of rinks in the DC area, I have not found a really good
   rink -- ideally for an area like Washington DC there would be a rink(s)
   that has adult sessions with a "dance club" feel. Does any exist in the
   DC/Baltimore area?

Uh...I haven't noticed any...I usually go to Columbia if I'm in an
indoor mood.  They have an Adult night there that is more fun for me.
Plus they rent rollerblades ;-).

-----


  GREAT LAKES



    Illinois

Amy Ryan ([e-mail]) writes:
Skateland of Savoy (a few miles from Champaign Urbana) 217.359.3335
Skateland is a traditional roller rink complete with disco ball and colored
lights.  The rink is used primarily by quad skaters, but inline skates are
aloowed if they are "rink-friendly".  $3-$5 per session


    Indiana

From: [e-mail] (Gary Schmitt)
Hello! Anyone wishing to skate during some bad winter weather is invited to
Indianapolis to skate at the RCA Dome. For those not familar with the
dome-type
skating thing, it's done indoors on the concourse (the circumferential
hallway behind the stands). This makes for a smooth, 1/3 mile circuit, with
just a few relatively mild expansion joints for excitement.

There are usually a fair number of beginers within the group of rec skaters
and there are always speed skaters training as well. The Indy Inliners have
club night on Wednesdays, 5-9 p.m., whenever the Dome is open on
Wednesdays. This season, most Wednesdays are skate dates, but call
(317)824-DOME beforehand. There are also many other skating dates on the
schedule, so call to check.


    Michigan

From: Andrew D. Abbott|
Subject: Re: Good rink roller skating in Detroit?

In rec.skate article  you
wrote:

> I will be traveling to Detroit and would like to know if there are
any good roller rink sessions in the general area.

On occasion there is in-line skating at the Pontiac Silverdome and at
the Joe Louis Arena. I'm not sure if these fit your idea of a good
roller rink (I've never skated there), but they may be interesting
places to skate. You may have to do some checking around, though, to
find out when the times are. Otherwise, Shores Skateland in
Mt.Clemens may have what your interested in.
I hope this has been just a bit helpful.

-----

From: Erica Nowicki

        I was a speedskater on the circut in michigan for a few years, and am
an avid rink-hopper, and worked at 1 for 4 years.  Here is a record of some of
my findings :

*note these are all PERSONAL opinions given as truthfully as possible.
@= rink that hold meets.

Skateland of Woodhaven, Woodhaven, MI (homebase):  Usually a friendly crowd,
        but the floor needs to be redone in my opinion the speeds tend to be
        kept at a reasonable pace for sessions and the crowd under control.

        Music.

Dixie Skateland, Monroe MI: They need a better floor and sound system and
        their regular crowd is obnoxious.

@Skatin' Station, Canton, MI:  This is the place that State Meets are usually
        held along with a thanksgiving invitational that usually has a pretty
        good representation from a good number of states.  Their floor is
        excellent along with their sound system, but I tend to find that their
        sessions lacking.

Riverside Arena, Livonia, MI:  This rink I recommend highly, they have an
        excellent floor, and their sessions are awsome.  I attend these
        sessions quite frequently even though it is almost an hour from my
        home.

All Skate, Jackson, MI: They have a decent floor, and their crowd is one of
        the friendliest that I have seen in a long time, they also have a
        decent sound system, they do have very strict rules though which may
        turn alot of the better skaters off.

Rollerworld, Kalamazoo, MI:  Well, this rink is in a shopping mall, they do
        need a new floor, they have strict rules,  and need a new sound system
        but their crowd is nice for the most part.

I have gone to other rinks, but have only been once mainly for competition and
cannot give an accurate impression though that only.....
        Have a nice day...

-----


  SOUTH



    Florida

From: [e-mail] (Albert Boulanger)
Subject: Roller Skating vacation - Rinks in Florida (USA Rinks)

I went skating in several rinks/cities in Florida. Here is a breakdown
by day of adult skating session in Florida. One generalization that I
have made is: USA (United Skates of America) rinks are a cut above
the rest in general. They all seem to have a varied session schedule
to meet the tastes of a varied clientele. I have been to USA rinks in
Chicago, and Minneapolis. In addition the one in Tampa (which I
visited but did not skate at a session) has the same type of schedule.

================================================================
Adult Roller Skating (indoor) in Florida
================================================================

Sunday
****************

Semomoram Skateway Orlando, 407 834-9095, 834-9106 (manager)
8-11
Comments:OK, Speed (shuffle) oriented music. They did play some techno.

The Palace, Lantana (West Palm Beach), 407 967-0311
8-11:30
Comments: Never got to it.

Gold Coast, Ft Lauderdale, 305 523-6783
7:30-11
Comments: Dead session and they were going to cancel it. "Floating
floor" which is a floor built on wood beams so that it rebounds. These
floors are really nice!

Skate Mania, Ocala
7-10
Comments: Never got to it.

Galaxy Skateway, Palm Beach Gardens (West Palm Beach) 407 627-4554
7-10
Comments: Never got to it.

Skate Odyssey, Tampa 813 935-2000
??? (Never got hours)
Comments:  Never got to it.



Monday
****************
Universal Entertainment, Orlando, 407 282-3140, 407 282-3141
8-11
Comments: OK, about the same as Semoram. Last time I was there, they
seem to have a bit better mix of music than just the "shuffle" beat
like many Florida rinks tend to lapse into.

Southland Roller Palace, Pinellas Park, 813 546 0018
9-12
Comments: So-So, mostly shuffle beat type stuff.

Hot Wheels, Miami, 305 595-3200
8-11:30
Comments: Did not go to this session, but the adult Thursday session
was the best I seen on my vacation.

Galaxy Skateway Hollywood, Davie, 305 435-3300, 432-5144
8-11
Comments: Went to this several years ago.
It was Ok -- mostly shuffle beat type stuff.

Wednesday
****************
USA, Tampa 813 876-6544, 813 876-5826
9-12
Comments: This session claims to be a Hot 100 Club mix -- I will try
to check this one out next time.

Thursday
****************

Hot Wheels, Miami, 305 595-3200
8-11:30
Comments: Best session I went to on this trip. Center is walled off from
the rest of the floor (but open for skating).

Galaxy Skateway Hollywood, Davie, 305 435-3300, 432-5144
8-11
Comments: See Monday night,

Galaxy Skateway, North Lauderdale, 305 721 0580
8-11
Comments: Never got to it.

Happy Days Skate & Putt, Davie, 305 452-2800
7-11
Comments: Never got to it.

Rainbow Roller Land, Largo, 813 585-5987, 813 586-6810
8-12?
Comments: Never got to it.

Roller Skating Center of Coral Springs, 305 755-0011
7:30-10:30
Comments: Never got to it.

Skate City, Daytona Beach, 904 788-4401
??? (8-10:30)
Comments: Several years ago they had an adult session on Thursday. The
manager said that they may be starting this session again in the summer.
-----


    Texas

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 92 13:12:52 -0400
From: Susan Harbour
   I just read your rink-request in rec.skate. I have been to Austin Tx.
a couple of times this year and I have been to two roller rinks there. I
believe there are three in the city, but I was only able to locate two
of them (two of them are called Skateworld, I was only able to locate one of
the Skateworlds. I *think* the other is either a practice rink or an ice rink,
but I only ever got to hear their answering machine, so I don't know for sure.)
The third rink (Playland) is probably not one that you want to go to (I know
I never want to go back.) It's a pink epoxy coated concrete floor, which *can*
be a real nice skating surface, but this one is used for Bingo about five
nites a week, and has these pot holes in the epoxy that go right into the
concrete....I was afraid I'd ruin my (then new) dance wheels. It's really
pretty seedy, and it's also ridiculously hard to find.
        Skateworld (the one I found) sounds like what you are looking for.
The times I've been there they've played top 40 music, but I believe they have
*adult* nites and Christian nites. The floor is wood, (a little small I think)
but set up very much like the Skate 3 rink in Tyngsboro, (though the floor is a
natural wood color and a whole lot smoother than Tyngsboro.) The crowd is
generally not very big, and most of the times I've been there the floor has
also been reasonably clean (so you're not picking up a quarter inch of goop
on your wheels, making it feel like you're skating on a washboard.) Though
at least once that I was there I left after 40 minutes because it was so
cruddy. I've seen them have a "race" now and again between songs during
certain sessions, but I guess speed skating is more popular in Texas than
dance skating.
        Anyway...directions....
        Take I-35 north (north of the Airport which is north
of the 'downtown' area) take the Rundberg exit and go west on Rundberg
to Lamar Blvd. Take a right on Lamar (you should see an HG supermarket)
and go just past the HG parking lot, and take a left on Rutland Dr.
The rink will be on  your right. (You can see it from the HG parking lot).
        I can't find my list of sesssion times, so you'll have
to call them when you get there.
        I didn't go scouting outside of the city much since my stays in
Austin are generally only two or three days, and I never get a whole lot
of exploration time. But, I thought I'd tell you what I know!
-----
From: [e-mail], [e-mail]
Subject: Re: Roller Skating vacation: Miami FL, Austin TX, Sante Fe NM

The biggest (best) rink in Austin is Playland.  They are installing a brand new

floor AS WE SPEAK (write).  They will be letting everyone skate on it this
Friday night for the 1st time.  I tried to call and found out all I can get is
a
recording until Friday when they reopen.  I was going to ask when the adult
session is for you -- I'll let you know on Monday if you won't be on your
vacation yet. ???  There are only about 3 rinks in Austin and that's the best
one.  It is about a block from 183 and Burnet Rd.
-----
From: Russell Turpin
Subject: Re: On using both feet (was: sorting it out)

I like PlayLand, which is on 183, just east of MoPac and just west
of Burnet Rd.  (Coming north on MoPac, take 183 South (really east)
and then bear right on the access road.  Turn right at the stop
sign and PlayLand is about a block down behind a car dealership.)

They have adult nights on Tuesdays and Sundays.  Two of my coworkers
-- one of whom is pretty good -- and I skate there pretty regularly.
There is a good group of regulars.


-----
From: "Tamara Shaffer, x3222"
Subject: Re: Rinks in Austin

> I thought you all would like to know about each others opoinion's
> about Austin's rinks:

> ****************************************************************
> Date: Wed, 22 Apr 92 13:12:52 -0400
> From: Susan Harbour
> To: [e-mail]
>
> Hi Albert,
>       I just read your rink-request in rec.skate. I have been to Austin Tx.
> a couple of times this year and I have been to two roller rinks there. I
> believe there are three in the city, but I was only able to locate two
> of them (two of them are called Skateworld, I was only able to locate one of
> the Skateworlds. I *think* the other is either a practice rink or an ice
rink,M
> but I only ever got to hear their answering machine, so I don't know for
sure.M)

The other Skateworld is a working skating rink.  It is small.  It is
located in northwest Austin in Anderson Mill.  This is north on 183
about 1-1/2 miles (?) south of 620 at Anderson Mill Rd.

> The third rink (Playland) is probably not one that you want to go to (I know
> I never want to go back.) It's a pink epoxy coated concrete floor, which
*can*M
> be a real nice skating surface, but this one is used for Bingo about five
> nites a week, and has these pot holes in the epoxy that go right into the
> concrete....I was afraid I'd ruin my (then new) dance wheels. It's really
> pretty seedy, and it's also ridiculously hard to find.

A *lot* of things in Austin are hard to find.  There is a lot of
road work in the area of Playland.  We live with it.  Oh well.  I can
appreciate what she is saying, but considering their work they are
doing, and that it will be brand spanking new while you are here, I
figured it would be the best one to check out.  :)

>       Skateworld (the one I found) sounds like what you are looking for.
> The times I've been there they've played top 40 music, but I believe they
haveM
> *adult* nites and Christian nites. The floor is wood, (a little small I
think)M
> but set up very much like the Skate 3 rink in Tyngsboro, (though the floor is

Ma
> natural wood color and a whole lot smoother than Tyngsboro.) The crowd is
> generally not very big, and most of the times I've been there the floor has
> also been reasonably clean (so you're not picking up a quarter inch of goop
> on your wheels, making it feel like you're skating on a washboard.) Though
> at least once that I was there I left after 40 minutes because it was so
> cruddy. I've seen them have a "race" now and again between songs during
> certain sessions, but I guess speed skating is more popular in Texas than
> dance skating.
>       Anyway...directions....
>       Take I-35 north (north of the Airport which is north
> of the 'downtown' area) take the Rundberg exit and go west on Rundberg
> to Lamar Blvd. Take a right on Lamar (you should see an HG supermarket)
> and go just past the HG parking lot, and take a left on Rutland Dr.
> The rink will be on  your right. (You can see it from the HG parking lot).

Like I said, look for the HEB.  I haven't been to this one, but I know
her directions work.

> *******************************************************************
> Posted-Date: Wed, 28 Mar 90 11:00:15 CST
> From: Russell Turpin
> Date: Wed, 28 Mar 90 11:00:15 CST
> X-Mailer: Mail User's Shell (6.5.6 6/30/89)
> To: [e-mail]
> Subject: Re: On using both feet (was: sorting it out)
>
> I like PlayLand, which is on 183, just east of MoPac and just west
> of Burnet Rd.  (Coming north on MoPac, take 183 South (really east)
> and then bear right on the access road.  Turn right at the stop
> sign and PlayLand is about a block down behind a car dealership.)

The street is McCann and it's a Nissan dealership.  Hope that helps!

> They have adult nights on Tuesdays and Sundays.  Two of my coworkers
> -- one of whom is pretty good -- and I skate there pretty regularly.
> There is a good group of regulars.
>
> Russell

-----
From: Robert John Butera
Subject: Re: Good rinks in Texas

In Houston:   Trade Winds Roller Rink

              5006 W. 34th.  Just East of highway 290 just north of
                                                             I-610.

Adult night is Thursdays, 7:30-10.  Not as much dance music as I'd
like, though there is some every night.  A lot of the crowd seems
to favor classic rock, but everything is played.



Extreme Skate Parks




  ILLINOIS

Amy Ryan ([e-mail]) writes:
Hoffman Estates (Chicago Area)   SCRAP  708.884.0945
SCRAP is an extreme park with ramps, pipes, and things to grind on.  They
have beginner and expert equipment, including a half pipe, spine ramp and
vert wall.  Helmets are required.  Inliners, skateboarders, and BMX bikers
all use the equipment at the same time.  $5 per session  Must have a membership
for the halfpipes.  Membership is $20 a year and one day membeships for
out-of-towners are available.

Hours (they vary during vacation, so call ahead)
Tuesday - Friday   6:30-10:30pm
Saturday  2-6pm, 6:30-10:30pm
Sunday  noon-4pm, 4:30-8:30pm



  CANADA

For all you extreme inline skaters.....
    RAMPAGE INDOOR SKATE PARK
Featuring three monstrous half-pipes, including the Frankenstein!
Also several ramps, jumps, grinding bars, and much more!!

Location:   4100 Chesswood Drive
            North York, M3J 2B9
            [phone]

Hours:      Weekends 10 am - 6 pm
            Tues-Fri 4:30 pm - 10 pm
Call for more information

===============================================================================
=
List of contributors:

[e-mail]
[e-mail] (Albert Boulanger)
Amy Ryan ([e-mail])
[e-mail] (bill)
[e-mail] (Carl Baltrunas & Cherie Marinelli 1.5)
Charlie Brett
Erica Nowicki
[e-mail] (george atkins)
[e-mail] (George Robbins)
[e-mail] (Randal Schwartz)
[e-mail]
Mark L. Fussell using
Robert E. Brown
Robert John Butera
Russell Turpin
[e-mail], [e-mail]
Susan Harbour
Tamara Shaffer

=END OF PART 6=================================================================



     _________________________________________________________________



   -Tony Chen ([e-mail])

   *This image is Copyrighted 1994 (c) by Anthony D. Chen. Permission is
   granted to use this logo in World Wide Web HTML files so long as this
   copyright notice is included as either an HTML comment alongside the
   invokation (IMG SRC or HREF or otherwise) of the logo, or in the
   visible text.

   The image may not be sold for profit, nor incorporated in commercial
   documents or merchandise without prior written permission of the
   copyright holder.


     _________________________________________________________________

   TOC #1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #6 #7 #8 #9 #10 #11 PICS
Posted-By: auto-faq 3.1.1.2
Archive-name: rec-skate-faq/part7


   rec.skate FAQ: Part 7
     _________________________________________________________________

   [Outdoor Skate Logo, West] *

               REC.SKATE FAQ - PART 7: WHERE TO SKATE (OUTDOORS)

  SECTION 1: WESTERN NORTH AMERICA

   (Last update: March 1, 1995)



   Recent changes include:
     * Added Boulder, CO, info from [e-mail] (1/16)
     * Added U.S. National Parks info from [e-mail] (1/19)
     * Added East Bay, CA, info from [e-mail] (2/2)
     * Added San Diego, CA, info from [e-mail] (2/6)
     * Added Dallas, TX, info from [e-mail] (2/18)



  TABLE OF CONTENTS
     * General Note on U.S. National Parks
     * Pacific Coast
          + Hawaii
          + California
          + Washington
          + British Columbia
     * Rocky Mountains
          + Arizona
          + Utah
          + Idaho
          + Colorado
     * Plains
          + Texas
          + Oklahoma
          + Missouri
          + Minnesota



   Information about Where to Skate (Outdoors) in Eastern North America,
   Europe and Australia appears in Part 8 of the rec.skate FAQ.

   Known local in-line skate FAQs on the net are:
    1. US/CO: Colorado Springs skating FAQ:
       http://usa.net/chanlz/blade.html
    2. US/IL: blades@uiuc Urbana-Champaign info:
       http://www.cen.uiuc.edu/~ar9079/blades.html
    3. US/NY: Paperless Guide to New York City, Cyberskate page:
       http://www.mediabridge.com/nyc/sports/activities/rollerblade
    4. US/PA: Meng-Weng Wong's Philly skate FAQ:
       http://www.seas.upenn.edu/~mengwong/phl.skating.html

    5. Neth: JHD 'Bonzo' Keukelaar's Netherlands skate FAQ:
       http://morra.et.tudelft.nl/~bonzo/inline/inline.html
    6. UK: Duncan Clarke's UK skate info:
       http://www.csv.warwick.ac.uk/~phulm/skate.stuff/.




     _________________________________________________________________

General Note on U.S. National Parks

   From: [e-mail] (George Robbins)
   Date: Thu, 19 Jan 1995 17:10:07 GMT

   The park service has a national policy that give individual park
   directors the option of allowing only those activities that are "safe
   and compatible with the goal/character of the park", and most then
   play it safe by forbidding skating. The best action you can take,
   aside from sending a nice letter to the park director, is to send some
   money to the IISA and encourage them to attack this policy at the
   national level and aim for one that allows skating to be prohibited
   only when demonstrably unsafe or seriously inappropriate.


     _________________________________________________________________

Pacific Coast

  HAWAII

   From:[e-mail] (George Robbins)
   Date: Unknown

   In the Honolulu area, the terrain in town is pretty flat, but you can
   get into some serious hill-climbing instantly if you want to head
   inland. Great view though, if you work your way up the hill right
   behind Honolulu.

   The roads in town are good, but it is a pretty dense urban area, more
   like western business districts than NYC though. Expect to deal with
   traffic and try to avoid getting stuck playing tag with the frequent
   city buses - it's hard work to get past and stay ahead, miserable to
   stay behind or play leapfrog.

   In the outlying areas, you have a bit of a problem. The roads are
   generally good, but there is usually only one road between any two
   points, so traffic can get heavy.

   Also, since the general geography is a volcanic mountain, with kind of
   flat shoreline skirt, you will find that everytime you
   circumferentially cross one of the many radial river/streambed
   valleys, you go down a steep slope, over a bridge and back up. This is
   especially true on the smaller roads, major ones may have a bit more
   invested in grading and bridges.

   Also, be prepared for hot and sunny weather. When skating you may
   spend more time in the sun than the usually carefully rationed time on
   the beach vs. indoor shopping and clubs. It is very easy to get
   dehydrated or severely sunburned. Make sure you have light clothing
   that gives full body, arm and leg coverage and a wind-proof
   hat/sunshade of some sort.

   On a more serious note, a partner isn't a bad idea, especially if you
   intend to travel independently outside the major tourist traps. Hawaii
   isn't exactly paradise when it comes to crime and delinquency. This
   has come up a number of times on rec.bicycling with respect to bicycle
   touring, and it's not clear if there is a real problem or just a few
   overworked tales.

   From: [e-mail]
   Date: Tue Nov 30 04:05:22 1993

   I don't know if your Hawaii contributor actually lives here, but he
   didn't mention any specific places to rollerblade. While I actually
   don't rollerblade myself, I do jog long distances so I encounter
   skaters frequently.

   Couple of important things, your contributor hit on already.
   Residential areas on Oahu mostly radiate out from the mountain ranges.
   You've got hills and valleys--means lots of steepness all around, and
   not too much flat land for longer distances.

   Second--Oahu is not conducive to non-auto traffic. While you see a
   fair amount of bicycles and mopeds, you are at the mercy of the cars
   when you're out on the road. Worse, there are painfully few bicycle
   trails on the island--a lack of land and planning both. Worse, drivers
   are not friendly toward cyclists and skaters. They will turn right
   without blinking or looking, assuming that there's no traffic to their
   right because they're in the right lane--or they will parallel park on
   the road and the drivers will open their doors right onto the middle
   lane. I have had some friends of mine French kiss some car door
   interiors this way--ouch!

   The safest and most popular spot to rollerblade on the entire island
   is Ala Moana Beach Park and Magic Island. Magic Island is a little
   area at one end of Ala Moana Beach Park that was filled in many years
   ago by the Ilikai Hotel when they realized that their customers
   couldn't see Diamond Head anymore because of all the development. Ala
   Moana Beach Park itself is outside of Waikiki, across the street from
   the large Ala Moana Shopping Center. You'll encounter all kinds--kids
   learning, adults learning, kids whirling around adults learning,
   adults doing laps around a loop, etc. Basically, these "loops" around
   Magic Island are wide enough to accommodate joggers and skaters both.
   Nice view of Diamond Head, too.

   The other (and more closer site to Waikiki) would be Kapiolani Park,
   at the Diamond Head of Waikiki by the Honolulu Zoo. They have a 2.5
   mile jogging loop around it that you can use--except at parts it's
   cracked and not too wide--so that's a caveat.

   From: [e-mail] (Rabbett)
   Date: Unknown

   Should you come to Oahu, do yourself a favor and skate Kailua town on
   the windward side... miles and miles of flat and low rise asphalt...
   most of it in primo condition. Trade winds, blue skies, quiet
   neighborhoods and a mere couple blocks from the beach. Also, further
   into Kailua..is Lanikai...about 3.7 miles around, it is an oceanside
   residential loop with staggering beauty and colorful homes and people.

   From: [e-mail] (Mike Muronaka)
   Date: 11 Nov 1994 12:55:08 -0800

   I haven't skated much there, but the following areas have potential:

   General cruising - Residential Kailua/Lanikai is mostly flat and has
   little traffic. There's supposedly something resembling a waterfront
   outside of downtown Honolulu, but I never got there. Remember that
   skating isn't allowed in Waikiki (who'd want to go there anyway?) If
   anyone tells you Magic Island is a good place, they're either lying or
   not very skilled skaters (nice scenery, too small).

   Downhills - Since Oahu is mostly a giant mountain range, it's easy to
   find a spot to test how well your brake works. Go to Tantalus for
   curves. There's this one hill (sorry, can't remember specifically
   where) where I had to throw my car in first going down and still rode
   the brakes : ). Keep your eyes peeled.

   Street - Schools. The University has loads of terrain toys. There's a
   large concrete bowl (skate park?) in Honolulu, but everytime I've gone
   by there, it's chained off. There's a quarter pipe at the Kailua
   Intermediate playground. I've actually seen skateboarders on it, but
   again, it's mostly chained off.

   Be aware that Hawaii drivers for the most part don't understand the
   concept of bicycles on the road, so inlining should be no exception.
   Stay on the sidewalk in high traffic areas. I've been told that
   inlining is also getting more popular (i.e. seen on people above the
   age of 5 who aren't tourists), so you might not get as many stares as
   I did : ).


     _________________________________________________________________

  CALIFORNIA
     * Napa Valley
     * San Francisco and Marin County
     * East Bay
     * South Bay and Peninsula
     * San Luis Obispo
     * Los Angeles
     * Long Beach
     * Orange County
     * San Diego


    Napa Valley

   From: [e-mail] (Peter W. Richards)
   Date: Wed, 04 Jan 1995 23:30:43 -0600

   I recommend the Silverado Trail (Site of David Miles of CORA's Roll
   thru the Wine Country). You can cruise about 27 miles from Napa to
   Calistoga and another 27 back if you're ambitious. (I did it once.
   Don't ask what my socks looked like...) Moderately rolling with no
   really scary hills. Quite adequate bikelane/shoulder most of the way
   except for in some of the hills near the Calistoga end, and a funny
   road surface/shoulder ridge even nearer Calistoga. Cool stuff for
   distance enthusiasts....

    San Francisco and Marin County

   From: [e-mail] (Garvin 888)
   Date: Unknown

   When in San Francisco check out Golden Gate Park; on Sundays the
   park's closed off to cars. Also, there's the Embarcadero area
   (Fisherman's Wharf, pier 39, etc.) and the Marina district. If you're
   a fairly skilled skater, you can try and tackle other areas in SF, but
   there are plenty of hills. There's also a Friday night fun skate, held
   every Friday at 8pm down by the Ferry building that's along the
   Embarcadero. Open to all ages and abilities, although knowing how to
   stop is a must! It's a 15 mile tour of the city.

   From: [e-mail] (George Robbins)
   Date: Sat, 22 Oct 1994 18:30:18 GMT

   [e-mail] (Curtis Ling) writes:

     [...] I was reading the FAQ and saw that there was a "Friday night
     fun skate... 15 mile tour of the city" starting at 8PM, at the Ferry
     building along the embarcadero (wherever that is). I was wondering
     if that would still be going on in November, if it was a regular
     thing, and if not, if there were other such regular events.

   If you look at SF, it sits on the end of thumb-shaped penninsula. The
   Embarcadero is the water-front street through the old dock area, kind
   of crescent shaped. The Ferries building is the old Ferry terminal, I
   think it's mostly offices and a Restaurant now. I seem to recall it's
   close to where Market St. would intersect the Embarcadero if there
   wasn't a zone of confusion in between. Look for the Bay Bridge and you
   won't be too far off. Anyone in the city should be able to point you
   in the right direction.

   Note that this is much closer to the main business district than the
   to Fishermans Wharf/Pier 39/Presideo/Cannery tourist-trap "end" of the
   Embarcadero. At that end there's a bit of a park and litle beach where
   there's also supposed to be some skating activity during the day. The
   Embarcadero is dead flat, and there are lots of not-too hilly routes
   around the city - the really nasty hills are when you try to go up and
   over the the penninsula instead of around the periphery. (kind of like
   HK)

   Take your skates in any case, skating or biking is a very good way to
   see the city - it's big enough that walking everywhere is a real pain,
   and cars aren't particularly convenient. Just carry some shoes in a
   backpack so that you can take a bus/trolly bus/cable car, or if you
   decide you want to go up or down one of the really steep streets.

   From: [e-mail] (L. Floyd)
   Date: Sun, 23 Oct 1994 19:20:36 GMT

   [Re:] San Francisco Friday Night Skate (Midnight Rollers)

   As far as I know, the Friday night skate goes on every Friday of the
   year, weather permitting. George gave good directions to the start
   point. Look for the Ferry Building clock tower at the east end of
   Market Street. There are parking spaces in the extra-wide median on
   the Embarcadero right there at the Ferry Building. To play it safe,
   pay the $3.00 (self-pay box) - I got a "warning" many weeks ago.
   People start to gather in the parking lot I just mentioned at around
   8:00 pm or earlier. The skate starts at 8:30. There are plenty of
   folks who do the skate. Last Friday the count was over 325 skaters:
   young, old, women, men, kids, in-line, quad, racing, newbies. Wear
   your helmet and bring along one of those blinky lights things so you
   won't get smushed by a car or bus.

    While you are in SF, you might want to check out the skating in
   Golden Gate Park on Sundays. One of the main roads (John F. Kennedy
   Drive) that goes through the park is closed off (well, most of it is
   closed off) from noon until late in the afternoon. Runners, cyclists,
   walkers, and skaters fill the stree. There is usually a group of
   regulars who set up a boom box (powered by car batteries!) near 6th
   Ave... some of the best skaters in town dance the day away there.

   From: [e-mail] (Charles E Newman)
   Date: Tue, 3 Jan 1995 04:04:58 GMT

   [...], do not use your inlines anywhere in public in Larkspur, they
   outlawed the use of skatboards, roller skates, and inline skates some
   years ago. And the Tamalpais Union High school distrct banned them in
   1986 on district property. If you want to skate, don't go to Marin,
   period!!!!

   From: [e-mail] (Jennifer Lynn Hammond)
   Date: 16 Jan 1995 23:19:39 GMT

   There is a paved multi-use path in Tiburon that has incredible views.
   It's only two miles long (one way), but you can add in some streets in
   Tiburon; there are lots of skaters on weekends, and it seems skate-
   friendly. [We were fooling around on a residential street one day, and
   one of my friends fell just as a police car went by on the cross
   street. The officer doubled back and came down our street, and we were
   sure he was going to tell us to get off the road. But he just wanted
   to make sure my friend was okay, and he drove away saying "enjoy!"]

   The path is just off of Tiburon Blvd. We usually park in the lot for
   Richardson Bay Park, because street parking in Tiburon can be scarce.
   On the weekends it can get a bit crowded, and sometimes it's pretty
   windy out there, so be prepared!

   There's also a paved bike path in Sausalito, but the surface is a bit
   too rough for my taste.... it's do-able, but not esp. enjoyable.

   Other than that, I don't know of anywhere special in Marin. My
   boyfriend and I live in Novato, and we just go out on the streets
   here... there are some really nice routes.

    East Bay

   From: [e-mail] (Betsy Burton)
   Date: Unknown

   In addition to the places I can tell you about, there is a book out
   from Karim Cycley that talks about some other places.

   1) My personal favorite for a nice long run, is the back streets to
   Richmond. There are a number of streets starting near Gilman and
   Albany. These streets go through Albany and El Cerrito. In addition,
   Richmond Street goes out past the El Norte Bart Station. This route
   has good small hills and allows for a good workout.

   2) The Nimitz trail takes off at the top of inspiration point and goes
   out about 4 miles. At the end of this path is a rather large hill,
   which after struggling to the top, is great to fly down.

   3) Tunnel road takes a bit of experience and some good breaking
   skills. I just heard that someone biked up tunnel road the other
   day..so it may be open after the fire.

   4) Berkeley Marina is good for a quickie. A full lap is 2.5 miles. The
   only draw-back is that the view gets a little boring after a few laps.
   My last and most favorite is Bancroft Hill, next to the University.
   Late at night it is a nice fast down hill.

   From: [e-mail] (Jim Young)
   Date: Unknown

   You might want to try skating around the Berkeley hills. I usually go
   up Euclid or Spruce, skate across Grizzly Peak, and then down Tunnel
   road. If you go early in the morning, you might see Eddy Matzger and
   Sandy Snakenberg there.

   From: HQPYR1:[e-mail] (Kimon Papahadjopoulos)
   Date: Unknown

   Experts only! Nasty hill climb, nasty descent.

   Path or area location: Tunnel Road on the Berkeley/Oakland Border
   Directions:

   >From Berkeley: Take Ashby out of Berkeley, past the Clairmont Hotel
   and towards highway 13 and 24. Turn left at the stoplight (As if going
   towards highway 24, not 13). When you get to the top of the hill, make
   a left and Park.

   Orida side of 24: I believe you take the Tunnel Road Exit.


                 ^
                 |
TheRoute...__ To 24
             \   |
Tunnel Rd --> |  |
              |__|
              |  |
              |  |
   Hiller --> |  |
             /   |
            /    |
                 |
                 |
                 |
                 |

   >From Berkeley ---S---- To 13 ->

     * Parking information: On the the start of Tunnel itself
     * Path length: ~6mi (I don't really know- cound be 7-8)
     * Loop or non-loop: Loop: Up and Down.
     * Average path width: Two lane street
     * Minimum path width: Two lane street
     * Average surface: Pretty good asphalt, some rough spots
     * Worst surface: One very pitted rough spot for about 10 feet.
     * Number of hills: Up hill all the way
     * Severity of steepest hill: 8 on a scale of 1-10
     * Average steepness: 7 on a scale of 1-10
     * Obstacles: One very pitted spot near the bottom, cars, occasional
       trucks
     * Weekend pedestrian and bicycle traffic: Yes
     * Weekday pedestrian and bicycle traffic: Yes
     * Number of roads which cross the path: It is a road. It crosses
       several roads, but no stop signs or lights.
     * Number of stairways on the path: None
     * Distance markings: No
     * Any other pertinent information:



   For experts only! If you cannot brake well at high speeds, don't try
   this course. If you are unsure, drive it first.

   The climb up is a great workout, and not too severe. There are also
   great views of San Francisco and Oakland. Tunnel Road turns into
   Skyline about half way up.

   Watch for problems in the road going up so that you will be aware of
   them when you come down. Take it easy coming down the first time.
   There are several areas that require care!

   There is a water fountain a little past the top (if you continue along
   Skyline Blvd about 200 meters) at a ranger station.

   This is in the burned area of Oakland, so there is construction going
   on in places, some trucks coming up.

   It takes between 15-30 min to get to the top, depending on ability.

   There are other places you can explore when you get to the top, but
   Tunnel is generally the most tame, and the safest bet to go back down.
   Be careful and have fun!

   From: [e-mail] (Needeep)
   Date: 2 Feb 1995 22:52:52 -0500

   Try the Alameda Creek Bike Trail (ACBT) and the Coyote Hills Park
   (CHP). They are in Fremont.

   ACBT is flat and about 7 miles long. It connects up to the CHP loop
   trail (about 4 miles and rolling hills). We also like to skate in the
   Ardenwood Business Park (Paseo Padre and Ardenwood in Fremont).

    South Bay and Peninsula

   From: [e-mail] (Diana Hirsch)
   Date: Unknown

   I have two suggestions for skating trails in the Bay Area:

   1. Sawyer Camp Trail - off 280 in San Mateo near 92. Blader heaven on
   Sunday's, lessons every other Sunday. The trail is about 6 miles
   one-way. The last mile is very steep but fun coming down. However,
   they have radar out there and they will give you a ticket for
   speeding, especially in the posted 5mph zones.

   2. Campbell Par Course Trail - off Campbell Ave. near 17 and the
   Pruneyard. The trail can be accessed in several places between
   Hamilton and Campbell Aves. This trail is fun because it goes all the
   way through Vasona Park into Los Gatos. The only caution is that there
   are several wood bridges to cross. (Stay on your back wheels and use
   short horizontal strokes, it's good for the adrenalin.)

   From: [e-mail] (CatsMeow)
   Date: 2 Jul 1994 08:50:06 -0400

   Hellyer to Anderson Dam trail. 16 miles of paved trail that take you
   to Morgan Hill near the Dam.

   Los Gatos Creek trail. This starts on Willow Street, way at the west
   end where it dead-ends and goes clear to Vasona Park. I think it's a
   good 10 miles at least.

   From: [e-mail] (Eugene Walden)
   Date: Unknown

   Another good place to go is Sawyer Camp Trail. It's only 6 miles long,
   so I guess it doesn't qualify as really long, but there and back, you
   get a good quiet 12 miles.

   Take I-280 to Black Mtn Rd (just north of 92) and head west. Turn left
   at the intersection and go another mile or so. It's on the right.

   Follow the posted speed limits-- park rangers have radar and will give
   citations for violators.

     * Path or area location: Sawyer Camp Trail
     * Directions: Take I-280 to the Black Mtn / Hayne Rd exit-- near
       Half Moon Bay. Head west after you exit, until you reach the first
       stop sign. There is a sign that points left to Sawyer Camp Trail.
       Turn left. It is about 1-2 miles down after you turn.
     * Parking information: Park on the side of the road about 1-2 miles
       down. You'll see the entrance.
     * Path length: 6 miles in one direction.
     * Loop or non-loop: Non-loop.
     * Average path width: Two lanes; each about sidewalk width.
     * Minimum path width: Same throughout course.
     * Average surface: Fairly smooth; no potholes; some cracks filled
       with black goop.
     * Worst surface: Some areas are cracked with the goop filling. The
       goop can be kind of slippery, even when dry, so skate very
       gingerly on this stuff.

       When there has been rain, only attempt the first half of the
       trail; the second half is shady, so it dries slower. The pavement
       is very hard to skate on when wet.
     * Number of hills: Several small hills, one huge hill on the last
       mile of the course.
     * Severity of steepest hill: If you are not very good at speed
       control, do not skate the last mile. If you are good at speed
       control, make sure to keep your speed down. The hill is windy, so
       you risk running into peds and/or bikes if you fly too fast.
     * Average steepness: Don't know what the grade is, but the big hill
       is pretty darn steep.
     * Obstacles: Pedestrians, bikes, skaters.
     * Weekend pedestrian and bicycle traffic: Saturday and Sunday
       afternoons see pretty heavy traffic. Most of the traffic, though,
       keeps to the first mile or two of the trail. So, after you get
       past that, the number of other path users drops significantly.
     * Weekday pedestrian and bicycle traffic: Never gone during the
       week-- don't know.
     * Number of roads which cross the path: None.
     * Number of stairways on the path: None.
     * Distance markings: Every half mile.
     * Any other pertinent information: There are usually two park
       rangers who patrol the path. Thus, it is fairly safe. They also
       have radar. The first and last half mile half posted speed limits
       of 5 MPH. The rest has a speed limit of 15 MPH. They do ticket
       violators, so you're wise to obey the speed limit.

       Park is open dawn to dusk.

   From: [e-mail] (Ron Drake)
   Date: Unknown

   The trail goes under the San Mateo Bridge all the way to the end of
   Edgewater Boulevard in Foster City. As a matter of fact, the best part
   of the trail is after the bridge. Makes eight miles, total. Traffic's
   not too bad except for the occasional knot of cud-chewers and those
   kids who bike out ahead of their parents and think nothing about
   turning right in front of you to see if mom and dad are still visible.
   If you start and finish at Edgewater, you can replenish your precious
   bodily fluids at Chevy's with a couple of cold margaritas. From 101,
   take Hillsdale Blvd. or H'way 92 to Edgewater. Turn right and follow
   Edgewater to its end. Park. The trail begins at the end of the street
   to the right.

   The best street skating I've found so far is through western Menlo
   Park near the Stanford campus to downtown. There are a number of
   streets there that have bike lanes and not much vehicular traffic. The
   streets are well- kept so that debris and surprise bumps are at a
   minimum. The pavement varies in quality from excellent to garbage. The
   area is bounded by Sand Hill Road, Valparaiso Road, El Camino and
   Alameda de las Pulgas.

   Those who go to Shoreline should be aware of the concert schedule.
   It's always better to go when it's quiet. For those who want to get a
   real workout, here's the prescription for doing 'laps' at Shoreline.
   At the end of the stretch that parallels Moffett Field, there's that
   series of double gates. Skate down the incline (Whoa!), out through
   the cul-de-sac and make a right on Shoreline Boulevard.

   From: [e-mail] (David Volansky)
   Date: Unknown

     at Stanford. Anybody have any details on this (when, where, etc...).
     I believe this is put on by the skate shop Nuevo Colors...

   The group meets at the Main Quad at about 7:15pm. The best place to
   locate them is in the parking lot at the end of Palm/University Ave or
   on the stairs near the lot - you can't miss them - the group usually
   numbers in the 30s to 40s this time of year (more in summer, less in
   the rain - yes, they go in the rain).

   The group is very informal and doesn't really have a starting time or
   leader. As it's getting darker, they're leaving earlier and earlier.

   The ride usually goes until about 9 or 9:30 and includes some favorite
   jumping spots on campus and a ride in the close-by neighborhood. Be
   prepared for some hills - the smell of heal brake is really something
   at the end of some of these runs. The route is the same each week, so
   the darkness isn't too bad after a few weeks. In the beginning, just
   stay behind someone who seems to know the route and be sure to listen
   for the "stay to the right", "stay to the left", "watch out for the
   big ditch" messages.

   From [e-mail] (Tony Purmal)
   Date: Unknown

     * Path or area location: Foster City, CA
     * Directions: Get to Foster City by crossing 101 on Hillsdale Blvd
       or Highway 92. The path circles the city next to the following
       streets: Beach Park Blvd between Compass and the San Mateo Bridge,
       East Third and J. Hart Clinton Drive from the bridge to and beyond
       Mariner's Island Blvd. It follows Belmont Slough and Marina Lagoon
       between Compass and Fashion Island Drive passing Townhouse, Condo
       and Apartment complexes bordering those waterways.
     * Parking information: Park along the streets mentioned above, or
       park at a park along the path.
     * Path length: About 10 miles
     * Loop or non-loop: Can be done as a loop if you go between the path
       endpoints. This can be done by taking Mariner's Island Blvd and
       Fashion Island Blvd between East Third Ave and Marina slough. One
       can also go along the wooden walkway (past Fashion Island Blvd) to
       Shoal Drive and through Mariner's Island Park to get to Mariner's
       Island Blvd to complete the loop.
     * Average path width: 8 feet
     * Minimum path width: 4 feet
     * Average surface: semi-smooth asphalt
     * Worst surfaces: Lots of raised cracks (linear and horizontal)
       along bay on south side of bridge. Pitted rough surface on north
       side of bridge where the path is close to the bay. Uneven pavement
       in places along Belmont Slough. Wooden walkway between Fashion
       Island and Shoal Drive (optional).
     * Number of hills: Five or so very small hills.
     * Severity of steepest hill: Very slight.
     * Average steepness: Very slight.
     * Obstacles: A wooden bridge along Marina Slough (very easy to
       handle)
     * Weekend pedestrian and bicycle traffic: Unknown
     * Weekday pedestrian and bicycle traffic: Light and well behaved.
     * Number of roads which cross the path: Between Fashion Island Blvd
       and Mariner's Island Blvd, none. To complete the loop along
       Mariner's Island Blvd and Fashion Island Blvd there are four
       intersections and up to five side streets depending on which side
       of the street you're on.
     * Number of stairways on the path: None along the path, two if you
       take the optional connection along the wooden walkway and other
       roads to get to Mariner's Island Blvd to complete the loop.
     * Distance markings: Beginning 1/4 mile south of the San Mateo
       Bridge on the inside of the path there are markings every 1/4 mile
       in faded yellow/orange paint through until Highway 92.
     * Any other pertinent information: The path borders Belmont Slough
       where one can see various wetland wildlife. There are also good
       views of the east bay along Beach Park Blvd, and of San Francisco
       north of the bridge.

       The wind gets pretty strong at times, especially in the
       afternoons, so be prepared. I prefer to skate into the wind on the
       way out and with the wind on the way back.



   From: [e-mail]
   Date: Unknown

   Redwood Shores, CA (across 101 from Belmont, CA)

     * Directions: Take Ralston Ave. east across 101, turns into Marine
       World Parkway. Turn left onto Oracle Parkway at first light after
       101 overpass.
     * Parking information: Park at the parking lot at the first left
       after getting onto Oracle Parkway, or continue around and park in
       the area across from the Oracle Fitness Center.
     * Path length: 1 mile
     * Loop or non-loop: Loop
     * Average path width: 7 feet
     * Minimum path width: 4 feet
     * Average surface: Smooth asphalt and sidewalk
     * Worst surface: ...
     * Number of hills: Three short inclines.
     * Severity of steepest hill: Small angle
     * Average steepness: Slight
     * Obstacles: Occasional hoses when the maintanence people are
       working.
     * Weekend pedestrian and bicycle traffic: Light
     * Weekday pedestrian and bicycle traffic: Light
     * Number of roads which cross the path: The path crosses Oracle
       Parkway twice where it meets Marine World Parkway. Cross from the
       path on Oracle Parkway to the sidewalk on Marine World Parkway.
     * Number of stairways on the path: None
     * Distance markings: None
     * Any other pertinent information: It gets very windy in Redwood
       Shores, especially in the afternoons.

       You can go from this path to the Foster City Bike and Walkway by
       taking a right onto Island Parkway at the end of the path closest
       to 101. Then follow the road over the bridge until it dead ends at
       Concourse Drive and take a right. At the end of Concourse there is
       a path leading to the Foster City path.

       From the Oracle Fitness Center to the San Mateo Bridge on the
       Foster City Path is five miles. (Take a right when you get to the
       Foster City path)

       From the Oracle Fitness Center to Hillsdale Blvd on the Foster
       City Path is three miles. (Take a left when you get to the Foster
       City path)

   From: [e-mail] (Jim Young)
   Date: Unknown

   On the peninsula, there are some nice, smooth trails at Crystal
   Springs. I know some guys who skate from Mountain View to SF, so I
   think some of the roads that parallel 280 are fairly nice.

   Finally, in the south bay, I have a friend who skates on the Los Gatos
   bike trail (it runs parallel to highway 17). It's sort of crowded with
   joggers and runners, but it's better than skating in south bay
   traffic.

   From: [e-mail] (Tal Dayan)
   Date: Unknown

   This is Cunnigham park in San Jose. The park has a lake, and a trail
   around it. The Perimeter trail (a loop) is 1.9 mile long but if you
   use the trail just neat the water, it a little bit shorter. The park
   has several parking lots which are virtually empty in this time of the
   year (including weekends) which are good for figure skating. The one I
   like the most is near the Marina (just below the Raging Water
   entrance) which has new pavement and it slope make it ideal for slalom
   (you might find the chalk marks I made this morning ;-> ). You can
   feed the ducks (millions of them), fish (or at least try to), or have
   Cock from the vending machine near the entrance to Raging Water. The
   parking costs one $ but there is no body to pay for or a box to leave
   the money so I consider it free (probably it is different at summer).

   To get there, take 101 Tully exit east (one exit south to the point
   were 101 and 280 met) and go on Tully all the way until you will see
   the entrance on the left side (just after the airport).

   From: [e-mail] (Shyh-Pei Yen)
   Date: Unknown

   Place: Shoreline Park in Mountain View
   Direction: 101 exit Shoreline Blvd North. At the end of Shoreline Blvd
   is the park entrance. Keep going until you get to the Boat House, you
   can park there.
   Fee: None.
   Level: beginner and intermediate.
   Description: There are plenty trials available in Shoreline Park where
   you can skate. And there's one trail is super smooth which is really a
   pleasure to skate on it. The parking lot is also very smooth. Best of
   all, when you are tired, you can sit by the lake and watch people
   windsurfing.
   Drawback: The Park is getting crowded in the afternoon. Sometime, it's
   hard to find a parking space by the lake.

    San Luis Obispo

   From: [e-mail] (Kinsley Wong)
   Date: Unknown

   [Try] Santa Rosa Parks, Perfumo Canyon Road, Palm Street Parking
   Structure

    Los Angeles

   From: [e-mail] (Edith Weil) The Rose Bowl--terrific for its
   large and varied terrain, as well as sparce population most of the
   time.

   Griffith Park--the back end. It can have a lot of traffic going
   through--especially on the weekends. If you start at the Crystal
   Springs picnic area and work towards Burbank, the workout is well
   paced, having inclines, straightaways, a few hills, and various
   parking lots to stop and noodle around in. Also, rolling along under
   the Eucalyptus trees is about as pleasant as anything--if you watch
   out for the twigs and tree junk on the ground.

   The Beach--an obvious choice, but about the nicest place to cruise
   I've ever skated--with the exception of crowds. Now that summer's
   here, the crowd situation will be problematic. I've gone from
   Manhatten to Hermosa and back a couple-a-few times, as well as
   starting in Santa Monica and working up towards Malibu. Both trips are
   delightful.

   A few weekends ago we went down to a park near the LA county
   fairgrounds (I forget the name, but you can't miss it.) The lake is
   circled by a concrete path going through the lawns and picnic areas
   that lead down to the shore. We took a divergent path and ended up
   going through a hilly area that wound up in a trailer park. Sort of
   interesting day, not the best skating, but there's a hot-tub rental
   place just outside the park if you want to relax afterwards. I'd go
   there again just to do something different.

   From: [e-mail] (David Skreiner)
   Date: Unknown

   [e-mail] writes:

     I Have skated along the strand, which is a 20+ mile long path along
     the ocean. The run from Hermosa Beach past LAX (the airport) is real
     nice.

   I skated there on my very first pair of Zetras, must've been 1991.
   It's damn good, the beach is totally deserted where the planes to LAX
   pass overhead, there's a bicycle path that runs in curves over about
   40 miles if I recall correctly (it may have become shorter in an
   earthquake or something... :-)

   From: [e-mail] (Kevin Carothers)
   Date: Thu, 30 Jun 1994 21:43:35 GMT

   I keep on praising the virtues of the Sepulveda Dam Recreation complex
   all the time in this group --

   It's fun, free, near the best skate shop in the San Fernando Valley,
   and not boring -- a few chills & spills & hills, but extremely
   navigatable on wheels... Approximately 16 miles of smooth 2-lane
   concrete bike paths, and lots of parking. There are some cracks in the
   sidewalk, some a result of the Northridge quake, but overall a good
   experience. The only problem I have is that it is not very shady over
   half of the trails. Oh Well.

    Long Beach

   A saga From: [e-mail] (Doug Elias)
   Date: Unknown

   i just got back last night from a business trip to Long Beach Ca.,
   during which i was able to escape my captors a few times in order to
   sample some of the beach-skating along the Strand. My Macro-EQ's
   having so far been fed exclusively on a diet of Ithaca pothole-and-
   gravel, this was a golden opportunity to find out how they'd perform
   under something better than, shall we say "marginal", conditions.
   Suffice it to say that i'll be reliving that experience in my dreams
   for quite some time to come, thanks in large measure to a guy i met in
   one of the beach shops dotted along the Strand.

   i was stroking past this little shack with the sign "Alfredo's"
   painted on it when i saw a rack of 'blading accessories, so i pulled
   in to look them over (cagey folks, that's exactly why they have them
   out there in plain view). While i was looking over the wheels and
   pads, out rolls Dana Bergman, Alfredo's resident inline-expert and a
   member of their skating team. He's wearing a pair of Reidell's (sorry,
   never got the model, but it's got 3 buckles and 4 wheels, if that's
   any help), and we get to talking about Macro's (he had a pair when
   they first came out) and bearings (did you know that Macro's used to
   come stock with German bearings, and only recently switched to
   Singapore NMB's? Dana was shocked and saddened) and proper
   care-and-feeding-of-same. i got a first-hand lesson in popping dust
   covers off of "sealed bearings" -- i use that phrase advisedly,
   because that's how Rollerblade describes them in their technical
   material. i told Dana that and he just laughed: "Yeah, all they want
   to do is sell you a new set when they get gritty, instead of telling
   you how to clean them and loosing the sale." So he pulls out a
   brand-new set of German ABEC-3's still in the wrapper, digs a little
   optical screwdriver (the kind you use to tighten your temples, for all
   you four-eyes like me) out of his kitbag, and twists off one of the
   covers. "Ya gotta be careful with those Singapore bearings, though",
   he cautioned, "the covers are on a lot tighter and you might jab the
   blade through your hand, but they still pick up dirt and grit." He put
   a little dab of a light grease (i didn't catch the name, but it comes
   in this 6" long black cardboard cylinder) inside the bearing, rubs it
   around, then adds a drop or two of this fairly high-priced oil that
   comes in a nifty little pocket-clip applicator with a long needle-tip,
   "Mogema In-Line Racing Oil"; when the original supply of oil is used
   up, he re-fills it with Marvel Mystery Oil, which he claims is just as
   good, if a little thinner, and much cheaper. If he had had to clean
   them first, he would have used a tuna can full of acetone to loosen up
   the junk and dissolve any grease/oil that remained, pounded them a few
   times on a hard surface to knock the loosened stuff out, then set them
   out for a minute or two to let the acetone evaporate, followed by the
   re-greasing procedure i just described.

   My bearing are still doing fine, so i didn't buy any of his, but he
   had a supply of aluminum spacers in stock, and i snapped up a full
   set, and bought one of his pocket-oilers off him -- damn, you might
   say i was impressed with how much better i rolled with the new spacers
   and a couple of drops of oil per bearing.

   Since the day was kinda cloudy and business was slack they closed up
   and Dana took me back up the Strand to the Long Beach Natatorium
   (where they held the swimming events in the '88 Olympics), and gave me
   an introduction to stair-riding -- if only it were as simple as he
   made it look. He said that there were four main points, whether you're
   riding them frontwards or backwards:

    1. have one foot "in front" (relative to the stairs),
    2. put most of your weight on the back foot (the one coming down
       last), and use the front one for balance and control,
    3. have your weight forward (relative to yourself, i.e, bend over at
       the waist and shift your weight to follow your upper body), and
    4. keep the wheels that are going down first on both skates UP, don't
       let them go DOWN, or you'll follow them.



   Dana claims that backwards stair-riding is much more natural an
   activity than going down frontwards, given the way our knees bend, and
   that it's basically just our inbred fear of moving in a direction
   opposite to the way we're facing that makes it seem otherwise. And, as
   we all learned on our bikes when our training wheels came off, you're
   more stable at-speed than you are going slowly. i believe him, but i
   haven't worked my way up to practicing it quite yet -- now that i have
   a good example of what to shoot for, it's only a matter of time (and
   the obligatory case-or-two of stair-rash -- for damn-sure i'm going to
   be wearing a helmet when i start practicing these moves; so far i've
   gotten away with wrist-, elbow- and knee-protectors, but then i've
   made it a serious point to keep my skates on the ground, and the
   ground continuous rather than step-function-like).

   That much would have been a nice addition to my stay in southern
   California, but the next afternoon Dana took me for a guided tour of
   downtown Long Beach that was little short of fantastic. Parking ramps,
   waist-high walls around parking lots, 50-yard long drops down a 40%
   grade followed by a hairpin over a swatch of dirt and into a parking
   lot...but the absolute best had to be the Long Beach Veterans
   Building, with three sets of 3-4 stairs separated by about 20-30 feet
   each going down, and then a set of S-curves following the handicap
   ramp going back up, all this fitting inside a 30 x 80 foot rectangle:
   Dana likened it to the Long Beach Gran Pri for formula-1, and gave me
   a demo, taking the stairs in nonchalant jumps that looked like an
   alpine downhiller catching air over a mogul, and then powering up the
   ramp with fast, powerful crossovers while leaning far out over ("But
   don't touch!") the hand-rails. He and his friends race this course
   frequently, but i couldn't figure out where they had room to pass,
   certainly not on the ramp: "Oh, I always pass on the stairs, they all
   yell: 'Look out! Here comes Dana!', and I just come blasting down".

   He had lots of little tips picked up over the years, stuff like:
     * wear a Walkman so you can skate to music -- it helps take your
       mind off your skates and lets your body start learning how to use
       them without your head getting in the way;
     * play little games with inanimate objects, like seeing how close
       you can come to light-posts, or spinning around fire-plugs, or
       stoking full-speed at a garbage-can and doing a jump-turn-around
       at the last second,
     * play tag and follow-the-leader with your friends,
     * kick around a tennis-ball (the way he described it, it almost
       sounded like one-man miniature-soccer), and, most important,
     * Never sit down or stop moving, you get locked up and stiff -- to
       rest, stay on your skates and do little things like practice
       turn-arounds, or zig-zags, or crossovers, or skating inside as
       small an area (a concrete rectangle on the sidewalk) as you can
       stay within.



   In case anyone in the LA area is interested, the Alfredo's folks are
   giving serious thought to the construction of an inline park somewhere
   in Long Beach, with a speed-oval surrounding an inner playground with
   ramps, stairs, tubes, and a re-creation of the the Veterans Building
   Formula-1 course. They're already solidly behind city efforts to
   convert an unused volleyball court just across the street from the
   beach into a fully-functional roller-hockey facility; this should be
   done well before summer officially starts.

   One last tip for the beer-loving 'blader who visits the Long Beach
   Strand: be sure to stop into the Belmont Brewery, just an in-field fly
   away from the Natatorium: really great service which, frankly,
   wouldn't be worth mentioning if it weren't for the truly fantastic
   brewed-on-premise beers (okay, okay -- the food is excellent, too, but
   the beers are really exceptional).

   Bottom-line: if you have an opportunity to take your skates to Long
   Beach, look up Dana and coerce him to give you a Downtown Long Beach
   Tour -- he's really good company, a damn-fine skater, and an
   all-'round nice guy. And don't forget the Belmont Brewery!

   From: [e-mail] (KH SYMBIOS)
   Date: 20 Aug 1994 03:27:07 -0400

   Another Ultimate place to skate is in Long Beach. Go park your car in
   shorline park then skate the park for good measure. North of it is a
   large dock area for Catalina Boats, there are wide expanses of
   concrete there between the commercial buildings..great for freestyle
   or hockey practice. If you go south of the shoreline village you can
   skate on smooth and wide sidewalks beside the marina...this path takes
   you to the beach sidewalk path which goes about 5 miles south past the
   Belmont Pier and to the Seal Beach Breakwater. I think this is the
   ultimate for skating. Wide range of terrain and nice views too!

    Orange County

   From: "Irene M. GRAFF" ([e-mail])
   Date: Wed, 31 Aug 94 13:15:05 PST

   I live in Orange County, CA which has some great places to skate.
   First off is the (mostly flat) beach recreation path which stretches
   in various forms from Newport Beach through Huntington to Sunset
   Beach. The best part of the path is along Huntington State Beach, but
   Newport Beach is more interesting (albeit a slower skate due to heavy
   use). The distance between Huntington and Newport Piers is about 10
   miles round-trip. The surface north of Huntington Beach Pier is quite
   a bit rougher but worth it for the bluff-top views and hill work.

   At the southern end of Huntington State Beach, you can hook up with
   the very long Santa Ana River Trail (over 40 miles round trip). This
   path has many roadway underpasses but they are fairly smooth. For
   extreme skaters, I've seen a lot of activity on the floor of the river
   which is very accessible since it was rebuilt (no, it's not really a
   "river" at most points, merely a flood channel, which is dry most of
   the year).

   If you like river trails, there are some good ones in the city of
   Irvine. Irvine is very bike/skate friendly, but the University of
   California at Irvine has, unfortunately, banned skating on campus
   completely.

    San Diego

   From: [e-mail] (Michael Peters)
   Date: Unknown

   Last November I enjoyed skating at Mission Bay on the walk along the
   beach and at Lake Mirimar (sp?). The lake has a loop going around the
   lake with lots of turns (nice for crossovers) and its about 5 mi.
   around. Lots of bikes and skaters. Not many cars drive on this road
   because automobile traffic is not allowed to travel the entire loop. I
   believe there are signs on I-15 just north of San Diego. It is located
   right next to the city of Scripps Ranch. The lake is a good place for
   a workout, but Mission Bay is nice for a leisurely skate.

   From: [e-mail] (Veda Larson)
   Date: 8 Oct 94 03:05:32 GMT

   Down here in San Diego, my fave haunt is Miramar Lake/reservoir, at
   I-5 and Mira Mesa Blvd. It's a 5-mile loop around a very pretty lake
   -- a nice workout routine. Even though lots of people go there
   (bikers, runners, walkers, fishers :), they're all spread out so it's
   still very peaceful. Play It Again Sports nearby rents skates, so you
   can take your newbie friends, too. The west end of the lake is a sort
   of dam overlooking the city, and the coast off in the distance. It is
   a mind- and body- cleansing experience to skate around the lake and
   stop at the west end to stretch and watch the sunsets on the ocean
   beyond the city.

   The boardwalk in Mission Beach and the paths around Mission Bay are
   fun, and there are lots of rental shops nearby, but they are quite a
   bit too touristy for my taste, especially in the summer.

   From: [e-mail] (S0ren Ashe)
   Date: Sun, 23 Oct 1994 16:38:02 GMT

   For beginners: the Jack Murphy Stadium parking lot is huge, flat in
   places, good slopes elsewhere. Balboa Park west of Cabrillo Bridge,
   South Mission Beach from the parking lot to north of Crystal Pier is
   classic SoCal beach boardwalk (mind the airheads!) Mission Bay by the
   Hilton hotel, Miramar Lake, etc. For hocky go to Olympic Skate in
   Fashion Valley between Interstate 8 and Friars Road, they have a court
   and manage team competition.

   From: [e-mail] (Veda Larson)
   Date: 26 Oct 94 12:26:14 GMT

   Behind the food court & ice rink at UTC (University Towne Centre) mall
   there is a nice smooth, winding, moderately descending path that's
   just wide enough for me to control my speed by slaloming if I
   concentrate. It has always been totally deserted and is flanked by
   hills with overlooking houses. The experience is actually a lot like
   downhill skiing!

   Ye olde path ends at Towne Centre Drive across from the Renaissance
   Towne Centre, behind which there are more charming paths and bridges
   by a creek. Overall skating distance is not long, but this is a cute
   route to try if you're looking for something new to explore.

   [caveat: UTC security will stop you ~10-20% of the time. you can go
   around the back of the parking lot, carry your skates through the
   mall, or skate slowly and carefully so as not to scare anyone. ;]

   From: [e-mail] (Joan Tine)
   Date: Mon, 6 Feb 1995 03:13:29 GMT

   If you can't get south enough along the coast to skate South Mission
   Beach at least once (and visit Hamel's Action Sports by the roller
   coaster) you'll have missed the San Diego skating venue. (Not the
   best, just the best known, and it's summer here:). It's less than 15
   min. from La Jolla, come down the coast route, or I-5 S to I-8 W to W.
   Mission Bay Drive, turn south at the roller coaster, go to the tip of
   the peninsula and park..skate north to Crystal Pier, turn around, come
   back to the parking lot, continue east, skate up the inside of the
   bay-side of the peninsula, and continue around...(if you're inventive,
   you can get to the Bahia Hotel without crossing the street).
   Generally, you can get a quick 26 miles without exposing yourself to
   cars, and the parking lot at south Mission is where a lot of people
   who aren't stunting in front of Hamel's practice.

   La Jolla itself is pretty hilly, the Cove is quite steeeeeeeeeep!
   <splash>. You could always try Mt. Soledad...(if your name is Francois
   Hyacinthe). UCSD is pretty nice, and skates are proabably as nice a
   way to see the (haloooooooooo ooooooo ooooo) campus as any.

   But bring your swimwear (or buy some there!) and skate the MB Board-
   walk...mind the tourists in trance and the loadies on weed, and you'll
   be fine.


     _________________________________________________________________

  WASHINGTON

    Seattle

   From: [e-mail] (Robert B. Schmunk)
   Date: Tue, 06 Sep 1994 14:22:13 -0500

   Seattle is not really a skating town. The problem is likely due to the
   fact that the hills of Seattle make it somewhat difficult to skate
   from point A to point B unless you have strong calf muscles.
   Additionally, many of the streets are paved in a somewhat rough tarmac
   that tends to give your feet the old washboard massage and wears
   brakes down pretty quickly. Thus, during a 10-day stay in Seattle I
   saw only one skater other than myself who was on the streets of the
   city.

   Nevertheless, there are places in Seattle to skate, as the city
   government has been kind enough to provide lots of bike/ped paths that
   are physically separate from the streets. The three paths I sampled
   all had very gentle terrain as they were located on/near the shores of
   one of the bodies of water in/around Seattle. A side benefit of being
   near the water is that some of these paths have truly splendid scenery
   to look at while you're rolling along.

    1. Green Lake: A couple people suggested to me that the 2.9-mile
       trail around this lake NW of the Univ. of Washington might be the
       place to skate in Seattle, but they're sadly disillusioned. The
       basic problem is that this trail gets a lot of pedestrian traffic,
       and the lane for bikes/skaters is never more than 3 ft wide. Thus,
       for beginners this is not a good place because of the possibility
       of colliding with a pedestrian, and the more advanced skaters will
       be frustrated by the slow skaters/pedestrians blocking the trail
       ahead.
    2. Elliot Bay Trail: This trail starts just slightly north of Pier 70
       and follows the shore of Puget Sound to just beyond the grain
       terminal at Pier 86. After that it takes a big swerve inland to go
       around the auto off-loading facility at Terminal 91, and then
       comes back out to the Sound and terminates at Smith Cove. Besides
       Pier 70, you can access the trail from a couple of streets just
       north of Terminal 91. Between Piers 70 and 86, the pedestrian and
       wheel (bike/skater) portions of the path are physically separated,
       and peds will growl if you take the wrong path. This separateness
       does make the trail somewhat more interesting to advanced skaters
       looking for a place to work out, and the flat topography is
       balanced by the wonderful view.
    3. Waterfront: This may actually count as a southern extension of the
       Elliot Bay trail, but a large gap between them suggests that it
       might be otherwise. Anyway, the various tourist piers along the
       shore immediately downhill from downtown are located along Alaskan
       Way. On the city side of the road is a trolley track for the
       tourists, and immediately adjacent to it is a bike/ped path that
       stretches from about a half mile south of Pier 70 down to a point
       about even with the Kingdome.
    4. Burke-Gilman Trail: Of the places I skated in Seattle, this was by
       far the best. I'm not quite sure where the western end of the
       trail is located, but the easiest place to find it is where it
       crosses Fremont Ave. right on the north side of the Fremont Bridge
       over the Washington Canal. (At this point it's only a bike lane
       marked on the road.) From here it heads eastward along the canal,
       along the north side of Lake Union, and past Husky Stadium on the
       UW campus. Beyond there it begins to wend its way a little inland,
       but breaks back out to follow the NW edge of Lake Washington just
       beyond Magnuson Park. This was about as far as I followed the
       trail, but it is supposed to continue further north along the
       lake, and then turn eastward to go through Bothell, and eventually
       terminate after something like 30 miles near the Ste. Michelle
       winery in Woodinville (sp?). This trail has many good views, a
       little bit of topography, and what I considered a surprisingly low
       level of traffic. It was also the only place in Seattle that I
       ever saw a blader on five-wheel racing skates. The only real
       problem with this trail is that although it crosses residential
       streets somewhat frequently, it doesn't often get near a 7-11
       where I could grab a Gatorade.
       BTW, if you're in the downtown area, it's easy to get to the BG
       trail by just following Dexter Ave. north. This road has bike
       lanes on both sides and the slope of the hill provides a good but
       not murderous workout.
    5. UW campus: Although there aren't any official skating routes (that
       I noticed) on campus, this is a pleasant place. There's lots of
       topography, some flats (Red Square!) and streets which all seemed
       to have been recently paved.
    6. Other trails: There are several other official bike/ped paths in
       Seattle, and skaters would be well-advised to purchase a street
       map which has them marked. One trail I plan to try the next time
       I'm in town runs along the west side of Lake Washington south of
       Lake Union. It looks to be pretty long, and also offers access to
       a bike/skating lane on the floating bridge to Mercer Island.

   Summation: On a scale of 1 to 5, skating Seattle was about a 3.

   From: [e-mail] (Wendi Dunlap)
   Date: 7 Sep 1994 11:12:39 -0700

   [e-mail] (Robert B. Schmunk) writes:

     [...] during a 10-day stay in Seattle I saw only one skater other
     than myself who was on the streets of the city.

   Another reason might be that the Seattle Police have been known to
   ticket people for street-skating. They call it "Playing in the
   street."

   I think they may have loosened up their attitude a bit in the last few
   years, but I have known people who were ticketed.

   From: [e-mail] (Mathew Hendrickson WAS Seattle)
   Date: 10 Oct 1994 22:52:07 GMT

   Three places that I know of:
    1. Burke-Gilman trail: It starts at Gasworks park (north end of Lake
       Union), goes northeast through the south and east side of the UW
       campus, then heads north to the north end of Lake Washington (Log
       Boom park, about 12 miles from Gasworks park), where it connects
       with:
    2. Sammamish Slough trail: It starts at Marymore park and heads north
       along the Sammamish Slough trail to the north end of Lake
       Washington, where it connects with the Burke-Gilman trail. From
       Marymore park to Gasworks park is about 25 miles.
    3. Greenlake: This is not a place to get a workout; there are too
       many people walking on the trail during daylight hours. It is only
       for easy blading unless you plan to go at 3 am (some people do).



   There are also various parking lots (the NOAA parking lot at Sand
   Point is a good one).

   From: [e-mail] (Frank Hansche)
   Date: Tue, 18 Oct 1994 14:28:23 GMT

   Jann E VanOver ([e-mail]) wrote:

     [...] there's a couple good trails in the South End, near the South
     Center Shopping Mall. Just east of S. Center, along the west side of
     the Green River, there's a nice trail. It has rather a lot of
     walkers at lunch time (being near many office complexes) but is
     nearly empty in the afternoon. Smooth pavement, relatively scenic.

     And, about 1/4 mile west of there, under a powerline, is the
     Interurban trail. Many many miles of nearly unused trail.

   The Green River Trail starts in Tukwila, runs south to Kent and ends
   at the Riverbend Golf Course. It's a good trail but parts of it are on
   little used roads. So, you may have to share it with cars.

    The Interurban Trail runs south through the Kent Valley to Pacific. I
   have not yet skated it, but have seen many skaters on it. It is very
   underused and looks to be a great place to skate.

   The Soos Creek Trail is east of Kent and is great if you like hills. I
   have biked this trail but not skated it. Go east up Smith to 256th and
   continue east until 148th. Turn left until you see a small county
   park. You can access the trail from there.

    Spokane

   See Coeur d'Alene, ID for information about the Centennial Bike Trail
   which extends east from Riverside State Park.


     _________________________________________________________________

  BRITISH COLUMBIA

    Vancouver

   From: [e-mail] (Robert B. Schmunk)
   Date: Tue, 06 Sep 1994 14:29:39 -0500

   During a recent trip to Seattle, I also had a chance to visit
   Vancouver, BC. While I didn't have my skates with me that day, I did
   spot what seemed to be the locals' favorite skate-path. The place I'm
   referring to is the trail which follows the perimeter of Stanley Park,
   just NW of downtown. Being right on the waterfront, it doesn't offer
   much challenging topography, but it did seem smoothly paved and wide
   enough that bike/ped/skate conflicts shouldn't be too much of a
   problem. My visit was during a weekday, and during the daytime there
   were a fair number of teenagers (particularly junior high school age)
   out and about. In the early evening, I noticed several cars pull into
   the parking lot and disgorge a young adult or two with a set of blades
   over his/her shoulders. One potential problem with this path is the
   high concentration of geese in the area, suggesting that one may have
   to be careful about cleaning off wheels and bearings after a skate.

   From: [e-mail] (Fiona McQuarrie)
   Date: 6 Sep 1994 17:07:51 -0400

   As a veteran of the Stanley Park Seawall path which Robert correctly
   identifies as a prime inline skating area, I want to add to his
   posting:
   This path is indeed wide in most parts but in some places it is
   extremely narrow, and as such users should be careful to follow the
   clearly marked bike/pedestrian divisions. I'm not sure which side
   inliners should go on, come to think of it (only having run on the
   path, which is clearly a pedestrian function :), but I would say look
   at others and follow what they are doing. Also there are some parts of
   the path where users on bikes are asked to dismount and walk. This is
   because the path is too narrow to have bikes bombing through crowds of
   pedestrians....so inliners should be careful too.


     _________________________________________________________________



Rocky Mountains



  ARIZONA

    Phoenix

   From: [e-mail] (Shooshie)
   Date: 15 Sep 1994 09:36:22 GMT

   I travel a lot in my work as a music director/arranger, and I take my
   Aeroblades with me wherever I go. I am in the Phoenix area a lot, so
   when I discovered the trail on Hayden Blvd. in Scottsdale, I was in
   blade heaven. There are over 20 miles of interconnected trails, and
   lots more if you consider all the skate-friendly sidewalks and
   streets. Some of the under-street tunnels flood right after a rain, so
   you have to be prepared to stop, turn around and go over the streets
   if the weather has been bad during the past week. I just got back from
   a two-week stay there while making a video at the Phoenix Symphony
   Hall. I spent every spare minute on that trail, and discovered some
   great things I had not even noticed before. For anyone who might be
   interested, here's the scoop.

   There is a recreation center on Indian School and Hayden. It is called
   the Indian Bend Wash Visitor Center. Large parking lot, big plaza,
   lots of concrete, stairs of every configuration, walls, jumpable chain
   fences, concrete-surrounded palm trees at regular intervals for slalom
   fun, skatable restrooms and water. Up behind it was a big surprise - a
   small skating rink, about the size of a tennis court, and square.
   Smooth concrete, with ramped sidewalks all around, stepped edges
   growing out of an incline from zero to three steps, and a nice view to
   boot. Skate down from the rink onto the plaza (be careful - the
   concrete joints radiate outward... you will drop a skate in one now
   and then) and you will find a trail leading between volleyball courts
   and baseball diamond, and it leads you to a tunnel under Hayden which
   connects with the aforementioned trails. The main trail is superb,
   from rolling to moderately steep hills, but none so terribly long as
   to be painful. It winds around through parklands, around ponds, next
   to streams, behind golf courses, and goes under most of the streets.
   One street crossing is at an arched pedestrian bridge which gives a
   nice boost going down the other side.

   But the best part of the trail is... "the Wedge!" It's about a 15 or
   20 minute skate from the visitor center along the trail. At any time
   of day or night you are liable to find the experienced skaters here
   showing their stuff, and it's pretty impressive. You hear about it
   from street skaters who speak of it reverently, although most of them
   have not been there and seem to register a certain awe or fear of
   actually finding it. The Wedge is a long (about 60 yards?) concrete
   dam right next to a huge concrete plaza (with wooden expansion joints
   - nothing's perfect) underneath a wide street bridge. The bridge
   provides merciful shade from the desert heat, and the wedge provides
   the site for some great jumping. At one end of the wedge is a stream
   which is normally benign, but which briefly floods during the late
   summer monsoons. That is the Wedge's raison d'etre. But the engineers
   almost certainly had us in mind when they designed and built it. It's
   just too perfect. The dam is about five feet high at its highest
   point, and the entire length of it is wedge shaped such that its sides
   slope upward at 55-60 degree angles. The top is broad, flat, and
   smooth; I'd guess 15 feet or more across the top, and as I said
   earlier, about 60 yards long. A side trail comes down from street
   level, down the ravine, crosses a short bridge, right to the base of
   the wedge.

   You can reach quickly just about any speed you want going down the
   trail. Then... you hit the incline in a crouched position, rise,
   spring and shoot off the top - the sky is the limit. An expert few
   manage to go clear over and across the top, airborne, (definitely not
   for the faint of heart or weak of ankle) and come down the slope on
   the other side. 180's, 360's, obstacles, grinds, you name it... you'll
   see it all there. An aluminum picnic table provides two levels for
   grinds, and barrels provide good jumping material. At night, the dark
   shadows under the bridge bring out a new dimension. One side of the
   wedge is visible, the other is in darkness... you learn to trust your
   feet. The chatter around the Wedge is generally about competition, and
   a number of the regulars travel to compete in meets. Apparently, some
   of them are doing well, too. Average age appears to be about 18. I
   made the mistake of using the "when I was your age" line once and
   offended a guy who, at 20, was pretty much one of the elders of the
   wedge community. I explained that I was nearly 40, but I don't think
   he believed me; maybe it was my ponytail. Something about the wedge
   knocks a few years off your age... a 15 year-old asked me if I was old
   enough to buy him cigarettes.

   Near the Wedge is another "made for skaters" plaza with all kinds of
   stairs, walls, and such for various kinds of practice. The whole
   experience of the trail and its extras is almost too good to be true.
   If you get to the Phoenix area, go nextdoor to Scottsdale and find the
   trail along Hayden road. The Wedge is in the southern part of the
   trail, between Thomas and Roosevelt, beneath the MacDowell Street
   bridge (I think... I never went up to confirm that). Let the rest of
   the family go see the Grand Canyon. Go to the Wedge. It's enough to
   make you want to move to the desert.

   Now... if the flood control engineers of Arizona could just find it
   within their needs to install a 10 foot high, 60 yard-long half-pipe
   beneath the other side of the bridge...


     _________________________________________________________________

  UTAH

    Park City

   From: [e-mail] (Klaus B. Biggers)
   Date: Unknown

   My favorite skate is Royal Street in Park City, UT. It's a road that
   goes about half to two-thirds of the way up Deer Valley Ski Resort.
   Lots of turns and lots of new pavement. It's probably about 500 meters
   (~1600 ft.) vertical and an absolute blast. There is little traffic
   and the police are very mellow about the whole thing (the town does
   depend on tourism you know). You can either bomb down it risking the
   tarmac (sp?) tickle or get thousands of turns (literally). Its really
   great in the summer since the temperature is rarely over 78 degrees F
   or so. Also, in the winter, a bus runs up to the top on a regular
   schedule and doesn't cost a dime. I kind of like the grunt up. It is
   kind of strange though watching a blader skate by a "Watch for Ice"
   hazard sign..


     _________________________________________________________________

  IDAHO

    Coeur d'Alene/Post Falls

   From: [e-mail] (Andy Hill)
   Date: Thu, 6 Oct 1994 18:10:48 GMT

   The Centennial Bike Trail is a long, wide asphalt trail that extends
   between Riverside State Park (NW of Spokane) and Coeur d'Alene, Idaho.

   I was coming from the Idaho side, so I first started on the eastern
   end of the trail (near the Coeur d'Alene resort). Only went a couple
   of miles before turning around - lots of busy street crossings, a
   railroad crossing (at the bottom of a steep embankment) that had to be
   walked, and then devolution into a dirty, marked-off "bike lane" at
   the eastern side of Post Falls. Blech!

   After retracing my route, I drove to the western side of Post Falls (I
   believe it is Post Falls Park). I skated up a short hill to the east,
   and got back on the trail, heading west toward the state line (a bit
   over 4 miles away). This was a much nicer section - very wide and
   smooth, pretty clean, and hardly used (I was skating about 10AM on a
   Saturday; probably saw a dozen people at most for the entire trip).
   There were a few rural street crossings that could be rolled through,
   and one nasty crossing (lot of road debris and traffic) at the Post
   Falls Outlet Mall, approx. 1 mile from the state line. Probably the
   worst feature of the trail is that it parallels I-90 for much of its
   length, so there's a lot of traffic noise (too bad they couldn't have
   put the trail along the Spokane River - that would be a real pretty
   pathway). Once past the Outlet Mall, there were no more street
   crossings. The bridge over the Spokane River at the state line was
   pretty neat. After crossing the river, there is a sharp turn to the
   right, and a somewhat steep downhill before crossing under I-90. After
   this, I only went a couple of more miles before turning around. Mostly
   gentle hills, with a couple of slightly steeper spots - nothing that
   an experienced skater couldn't handle.

   In summary, this is an excellent skating trail, if you get on at the
   right place. I'd probably recommend parking at the Outlet Mall, and
   heading west from there, although my route starting at Post Falls Park
   wasn't particularly bad. Next time I'm up that direction, I'll try to
   check out other sections of the trail - if I remember correctly, it's
   about 40 miles end-to-end.

    Sun Valley

   From: [e-mail] (Andy Hill)
   Date: Unknown

   Just got back from a work/play boondoggle in Sun Valley, Idaho. If you
   ever have a chance to come through this area in the
   spring/summer/fall, check out the Wood River & Sun Valley trails.

   The Wood River trail is a very recent rails-to-trails conversion. It's
   21 miles long (42 round trip), extremely smooth, and not much climb.
   It's a cross-country ski trail in the winter (there was still quite a
   bit of snow on either side of the trail this week).

   The Sun Valley trail is about a 20 mile loop around Dollar mountain.
   Not quite as smooth, and has some road intersections that are a bit
   gravelly. Quite a bit more climb than the Wood River trail (with some
   screaming downhill sections). Bring a spare brake!


     _________________________________________________________________

  COLORADO
     * Breckenridge-Vail
     * Glenwood Canyon
     * Boulder
     * Denver
     * Fort Collins
     * Colorado Springs


    Breckenridge-Vail

   From: [e-mail] (Phil Earnhardt)
   Date: Unknown

   This is a fairly old trail; it was even re-surfaced a year or two ago.
   It's an asphalt trail that runs from Breckenridge, CO to Vail, CO --
   somewhere around 25 miles in each direction.

   The section from Breckenridge to Frisco is fairly mundane. The section
   from Frisco to Copper Mountain climbs about 600 feet in 6 miles -- a
   fairly steep grade. If you are experienced in braking, the descent on
   this trail is absolutely fabulous. If you're an efficient climber, the
   climb is pretty fun, too -- you'll be passing a lot of tourists using
   their Mountain Bikes in a fairly inefficient manor.

   The section from Frisco to the top of Vail Pass climbs about 1000 feet
   in 5 miles. Pretty steep stuff. It's a neat path -- winding
   switch-backs in a "wilderness" area between the split-apart sections
   of I-70. There's a rest stop at the top, so you don't have to lug lots
   of water with you.

   The section from the top of Vail Pass to Vail drops about 2000 feet in
   7 miles. This is pretty mondo steep. Some sections of the trail are
   just off the EB side of I-70 and the air is filled with the smell of
   almost-melting truck brakes. Not fun. Also, you must be a skilled
   braker to navigate this steep, narrow trail. Dual brakes may be a
   necessity -- I wouldn't try it with just one. Also, I wore out 6
   brakes the last time I did this, and still wasn't in town.

   If you're unclear if you qualify as a skilled braker, here's my test:
   how many brakes have you worn out and replaced? If it's over a dozen,
   you'll probably be OK on this trail. Less than 3 is a No Pass
   (literally!).

    Glenwood Canyon

   From: [e-mail] (Phil Earnhardt)
   Date: Unknown

   I haven't been on this trail, but it looked absolutely marvelous. This
   is a 10-mile or so stretch of canyon in the far upper Colorado River.

   For the past n years (5?), this section of I-70 has been upgraded from
   a 2-lane to a 4-lane highway. It is an absolutely breathtaking feat of
   engineering! The WB lanes of I-70 are suspended up on the canyon; the
   Hanging Gardens tunnels are really neat. I drove through here last
   weekend; I had quite a difficult time concentrating on my driving....

   The path is between the EB lanes and the Colorado River. It sometimes
   winds in and around the highway and appears to shoot over to the Lakes
   at the tunnels. I don't have a good judgment of the grade; I'd guess
   it's 3-4% from Glenwood Springs to the Lakes. Clearly, the trick would
   be to get a room at the Hot Springs hotel in Glenwood Springs, skate
   upstream to the lakes, cruise back, and soak in the Hot Springs pool
   the rest of the night.

   Why am I telling you this? Especially since both of these trails are
   now impassible? No good answer. Except, if you're planning a
   spring/summer vacation now, you might want to put one or both of these
   gems on your travel plans. If we want more trails like this, it would
   be incredibly valuable for the local/state governments to get the idea
   that tourists are going out of their way to visit these trails.

    Boulder

   From: [e-mail] (Jim Aites)
   Date: Unknown

   I would like to take this time to submit my nomination for
   "blade-capital" of the the world. (what do ya' mean you didn't know we
   were voting?)

   The city is Boulder, Colorado.

   Last week-end I drove 50 miles (each way) to visit this famed area. It
   is as good as the rumors have indicated. Every major road around town
   has a 'greenway' containing a 6 foot wide contrete bikepath on both
   sides of the road, and even the roads without 'greenways' still have
   the wide walkways.

   The prettiest/best run in town is the Boulder Creek Bikepath. This
   path starts (at the top) about 2 hundred yards up the mouth of the
   Boulder Creek Canyon, and windes for about 7 miles along the creek to
   the far east side of town. It's all contrete, mostly shaded by trees,
   about 5 bridges over the creek allowing travel on both sides of the
   creek, and has at least 4 parks along the way.

   I didn't take the time to check out all the intersecting paths which
   lead off to other parts of town. (next time!) I saw a blades hockey
   game in progress, about 5 beginers (practicing in near by parking
   lots), almost as many Bladers as bicyclists on the path itself, and
   even found some other folks who had commuted (from Denver) to check
   out the turf as I was doing.

   From: [e-mail] (Phil Earnhardt)
   Date: Unknown

   Boulder Creek trail is swell. Between 1st and 30th street is really
   intermediate terrain, but there are a lot of beginners there. Between
   1st and fourmile canyon turnoff is an expert trail: quite steep with
   no turnouts. From 30th to 60th (or so) is a very mellow, very pretty
   trail. When you come back to the west, you can see the entire
   Continental Divide.

   There are a lot of other good trails in town.

   Both Boulder and Denver have bike maps. The Boulder one shows
   road/path grades (and direction). The Denver one doesn't, but there
   are a lot more trails down there. REI sells the Denver map.

   From: [e-mail] (M Shafran)
   Date: 17 Jan 1995 14:02:33 -0500

   Well, there aren't any trails really conducive to speed in Boulder, so
   most of us tend to do our long skates out on the Diagonal (especially
   now that both sides are smoothly paved). My speed club, Quicksilver,
   and the Roller Express USAC club, also do a lot of training around
   Celestial Seasonings' headquarters - it's smooth and almost a perfect
   1K loop. [...] If you have any other questions, just give me a buzz at
   InLine Retailer at [phone], ext. 703.

    Denver

   From: [e-mail] (Phil Earnhardt)
   Date: Unknown

   Cherry Creek -- from the dam to the South Platte River -- is a pretty
   neat playground. The trail along the South Platte goes for many miles.
   Remember the magic rule: go upstream first, so you won't run out of
   gas on the return trip.

   C-470 -- the 1/4 beltway -- has a bike path along about 80% of its
   distance. Here, substitute "wind" for "stream" in the magic rule.

   Check with Grand West Outfitters for info on hockey and more
   structured activities. They're at Broadway and 6th -- right off of the
   Cherry Creek Trail.

     My recollection is that there are several shops listed under skating
     equipment listed in the phone book. One of them was adjacent to a
     park, (the one with the Zoo or Washington park, not sure), which
     might be the place for public skating. Calling or visiting these
     shops would be a good source of info.

   Wash Park is pretty busy and the trails are not the best.

   Both Boulder and Denver have bike maps. The Boulder one shows
   road/path grades (and direction). The Denver one doesn't, but there
   are a lot more trails down there. REI sells the Denver map.

   I'm going to try the moby long Denver viaduct sometime this summer....

    Fort Collins

   From: [e-mail] (Peter J. McKinney)
   Date: Unknown

   IMHO, The best in-line skating in Ft. Fun is along the Poudre River
   and Spring Creek trails. They're paved nicely and are shared by
   bicyclists, inline skaters, and pedestrians. There's at least 10 or 12
   miles of trail and you should be able to pick up a map at any Ft.
   Collins bike store.

    Colorado Springs

   If you have web access, there is a little bit of Colorado Springs
   skating info available at <URL:http://usa.net/chanlz/blade.html>.


     _________________________________________________________________



Plains



  TEXAS
     * Houston
     * Dallas/Fort Worth/Arlington


    Houston

   The flattest city on earth. If you want hills, your only choice is to
   sneak into the parking decks downtown at night, This is rather common
   - just skate upward until the dweeb (they all are) security cop asks
   you to leave. Skate out.

   Street skating is allowed in Houston. Be reasonable. I've heard from
   reliable sources that street skating is now officially legal, but
   can't be positive.

   Downtown. Very popular with skaters. In the spring through november,
   Thursday nights are "the" skating nights downtown after the "Party on
   the Plaza" (weekely free outdoor concerts downtown). There's also a
   few skaters on weekend afternoons. Some of the big oil and bank
   building security types don't like skaters on their marble, even if it
   is a public sidewalk on a city easement.

   The "skater-bar" in Houston is the Brewery Tap, on Franklin (one of
   the northernmost eastwest streets downtown). Its also the major
   hangout for the Urban Animals, Houston's famous "skater-gang". The
   Animals organize skates on a semiregular basis - just join them on a
   Thursday night at the Tap - they're a friendly bunch. In the past,
   they also met at the old convention center (across from Jones Plaza)
   on Wednesdays and Sundays for hockey.

   Stop by the Montrose Skate Shop (on Stanford between W. Gray and
   Clay). The owner is a longtime experienced skater who knows a lot
   about Houston and the national skate scene. Don't let the appearance
   of the house/shop scare you :) If there's any official skating event
   or something sponsored by the Animals going on (like the Labor Day pub
   crawl) he'll adverstise it in his shop.

   Memorial Park is very popular on weekends. Its got a smooth 1+ mile
   loop. On a given weekend day, there will be 50+ skaters, maybe more.
   Racers and beginners alike skate there. Lots of bike racers too, so
   give them room. On weekdays the "picnic loop" (where the skater/bikers
   go) is closed to automobiles, making it even better.

   Rice University has a smooth loop (~1 mile) around the campus. Several
   shops use Rice for lessons, and the loop is popular with beginners.
   Experienced skaters often stop by for a few laps, and grab a beer at
   Valhalla (grad student pub, open every day but Saturday 4pm-2am with
   50 cent draught beers and 2.50 pitchers).

   Houston has lots of bike trails. Some are in terrible shape, others
   are pretty good. I reccomend the Braeswood Bayou trail only west of
   Buffalo Speedway. East of there it really start falling into severe
   disrepair. Its not obvious where you can park to get access to the
   trail, which is over 10 miles long. Some of the neighborhoods along
   South Brasewood have roads along the Bayou, park at one. The trail
   along Buffalo Bayou is OK, but during rainy season (late fall and
   winter) the off-road portions through the park get washed over with
   sand. Not fun.

   On some weekend afternoons, the city of Houston closes Allen Parkway
   for about a one mile stretch along the park along Buffalo Bayou. Nice
   stretch of pavement just for bikers, skaters, baby carriages, etc.

   From: Rob Butera ([e-mail])
   Date: Unknown

   Excerpts from the Houston skating FAQ (Last updated 09/27/1993):

   Skating is "street-legal" within the Houston city limits, barring
   roads that are banned to bicycles (the only example I can think of is
   a short stretch of Memorial Drive). However, don't be an idiot. Just
   because you're allowed to skate on a road does not mean its a good
   idea. A few rules of thumb:

    1. Yield to cars. It keeps street skating legal by not pissing off
       motorists, and they weigh a lot more anyway.
    2. Stay off the busy roads in the daytime. Be well lit at night (buy
       a Vista Lite or two at a bike or skate shop).
    3. Houston's lack of zoning is convenient for skaters. It means that
       many well traveled roads have other less traveled roads running
       parallel to them through neighborhoods. Some of the "well-paved"
       roads used a lot by skaters include Dunlavy (good North-South
       route), Hawthorne (good connection between Montrose and downtown),
       and the middle "skater lane" (i.e. car turning lane) on W. Alabama
       - but only use this after daily business hours.
    4. Obey the speed limit. This may sound funny, but cops in West
       University have nothing better to do, and I know bikers and
       skaters who have been warned.
    5. The Texas Medical Center is private property and skating is not
       allowed on its "interior" roads. This has been verified with UT
       and TMC police. I know of a skater who has been pulled over, by a
       TMC cop, flashing lights and siren :) :) :)



   Where to Skate

   Rice University
       Good for beginners. The inner loop around campus is about a mile,
       and a lot of newbies from West U. flock there on Saturday mornings
       in the Spring and Summer. You can also skate the stadium when it
       is open for football practice.

       West University
       A nice quiet community near Rice - most of the east-west roads
       were paved in the past year. Don't speed - they'll get you. Its
       easy to get above 15 MPH on their smooth pavement.

       Downtown and Vincinity
       Downtown is fun. A lot. You can find skaters downtown almost any
       night of the week, although Thursday and Saturday seem to be the
       most popular. There are numerous downtown bars that skaters often
       meet up at (See below). Things to do/see include:

          + Jones Plaza Party-on-the-Plaza (a city sponsored band party)
            is on Thursday night. However, after 11 PM or so, this public
            plaza and some nearby buildings is a playground for free
            styling skaters and skateboarders. Watch/learn how to skate
            down ramps or large flights of stairs :)
          + Milam/Lousiana Theses are the two most popular roads to
            cruise up and down downtown. Lots of buildings to skate
            around. Lots of obstacles, sculptures to skate around or play
            tag, stairs/walls to jump, etc. Beginners and experienced
            skaters both love the buildings with marble sidewalks. Behave
            yourself, and most security guards won't mind you being there
            (though there are some exceptions).
          + George R. Brown Convention Center-- There are hockey games
            here every Wednesday night, starting at 9-9:30 until 11:00 PM
            or so. Beginners are welcome, though most players are
            experienced and play in leagues around the city. Skate the
            big ramp (parallel to I-45) if the gate is left open.
          + Parking Garages-- This is trespassing, and I plead the fifth
            :) Ask any skater for details. The owner of a local skate
            shop describes parking garages as like "fishing holes" - you
            don't tell too many people, or its no good anymore (i.e. some
            step up their security if they notice repeated skater usage).
            However, there are a few regular garages that are not
            guarded, or the guards just don't care. Be competent and know
            how to brake before attempting even an easy garage, and
            avoid those that are still open for business (i.e. only go
            late at night).


       Memorial Park
       The "picnic loop" is another popular spot. On weekdays, it is
       closed off to car traffic. This loop is popular to bikers and
       skaters alike. When skating on weekdays, stay out of the way of
       the bikers and skaters "in training" - a lot of racers work out
       here.

       Other Neighborhoods / Hills?
       Montrose has some good roads, and some terrible ones. The closest
       thing to hills that you'll find is around the Heights - i.e. roads
       like White Oak, Studemont, etc. all near Buffalo Bayou. The
       biggest "hill" in Houston (to my knowledge) is the the Houston
       Ave. overpass over I-10.

       Hermann Park
       I used to tell people it stinks and not to waste your time.
       However, there are now (relatively) new 6 foot wide cement paths
       throughout the park that are great for skating, especially
       beginners. Still not as long or scenic as Memorial, but good for
       beginners or a lazy skate on a sunny afternoon. Watch out for
       pedestrians and mothers with baby carriages ... The Miller
       Amphitheatre offers a sad excuse for a hill ...

       Braeswood Bayou Bike Trail
       Park on Lookout Court, which is off of S. Braeswood just west of
       Buffalo Speedway. You can take the bike trail from Buffalo
       Speedway west to Chimney Rock (about 3.5 miles). The trail
       actually goes west as far as Fondren and east as far as U of H,
       but the pavement quality is much worse west of Chimney Rock or
       east of Buffalo Speedway. Take note: if you want to head west past
       Chimney Rock, the trail looks like it ends. It doesn't - you have
       to cross the bridge (i.e. skate on Chimney Rock Rd.) over the
       Bayou, where the trail continues on the other side of the bayou. I
       find this to be a nice "6 PM workout" before heading home, and you
       can skate into the sunset :)

       Buffalo Bayou Trail
       Good for mountain bikes. Bad for skaters. It COULD be the best
       outdoor skating trail in Houston (lots of slight hills and
       curves), but whenever it rains significant portions of the trail
       get washed over with sand. The bike path between the parking lots
       along Allen Parkway and downtown (via Tranquility Park) are in
       great shape, however.

       Woodlands
       If you actually have a reason to go way out there, the trails are
       pretty fun, and there are lots of them. Beware of sharp curves
       with bikers coming around them from the other direction ...

   Skater Friendly Establishments
   Surprisingly, most restaurants and bars are skater-friendly,
   especially in the downtown and Montrose areas. One big demand is for
   late night food downtown. Two options are Pat's & Pete's Blues Burgers
   (on Market Square) and Mai's (Vietnamese, on Milam). Both are
   skater-friendly and open till 4 AM on Fri. and Sat. nights. Other
   known skater-friendly bars/restaurants/clubs/coffee-houses in Houston
   include: Warren's, Birraporetti's, Toads, Power Tools, Brewery Tap,
   Fuzzy's, Cecil's, Emo's, Bitterman's, W. Alabama Ice House, 321
   Alabama, Blue Iguana, Brazil, Cafe Artiste, Grif's, Catal Huyuk, House
   of Pies, McDonald's, Gingerman, Volcano (though I think the crowd was
   annoyed by our presence), Valhalla, ..... I'm sure there's many I'm
   forgetting ...

   From: [e-mail] (Dwayne Jacques Fontenot)
   Date: Unknown

   These are the standard answers and my thoughts on them:

   Rice University
   To hear people talk and to read articles in the local newspapers one
   would think that Rice University is some great place to skate. Well, I
   know a thing or two about the Rice campus, and I simply do not
   understand this. Rice possible places to skate:

   The "inner loop": Sure, this is a smooth asphalt loop, but it is a
   road. It is for cars. The speed limit is 15mph, but some drivers
   regularly travel at up to 60mph. Traffic is not as heavy as say, Main
   Street, but it is heavy enough. I guess if you don't mind the cars,
   and don't get easily bored with the loop, and like to skate into
   Valhalla for a beer, then this is for you, but it's not for me.

   The sidewalks: No way. Rice sidewalks are "pebbled paths". That is,
   really smooth, bumpy pebbles held in place by concrete. This stuff is
   so slippery, that it is difficult to ride a bike on it (though
   technically one is not allowed to bike on it, so one probably cannot
   skate on it either).

   The Rice Stadium lot: Please wait while I stop laughing. This lot is
   like an exploded mine field. One must be very careful when driving a
   car over this surface. There are gigantic holes everywhere, and the
   surface is not smooth at all.

   The Rice Bike Track: Not an option. This is a bike track. It is for
   bicycles. It is not for skaters. Skaters should not skate on it.
   Bikers use the bike track to train on. It is extremely difficult to
   ride around the track at training speeds while there are skaters on
   it. Experts will tell you the worst accidents happen when there is the
   greatest disparity in speed of the vehicles. That is the case with
   bikes and skates. Imagine what a biker thinks when he comes up behind
   a skater who is stroking his legs out to the left and right. It is
   only a matter of time (IMHO) before skating becomes illegal on the
   bike track, if it is not already.

   The Rice stadium: This is a slight possibility. There are several
   concrete ramps which could be fun, but they are quite steep. If one
   could get in, it might be a fun place to skate, but once again, it is
   probably not allowed.

   Downtown
   hmmmmm. We asked one person where to skate downtown, and they said,
   "anywhere is fine". Yeah, rite. Anywhere is fine as long as it is on
   the sidewalks. And the sidewalks don't excite me. There are several
   cool plazas which are the property of large corporations. However,
   the security guards will not let you skate there. I guess they don't
   want to be sued, and I don't blame them.

   So, where do people skate downtown which is not on the streets (lots
   of cars)?

   Memorial Park
   I have no information. Anyone out there know good places to skate in
   Memorial Park?

   Hermann Park
   This is the best place I have found so far, but that is only
   relatively. There are lots of people with baby carriages. Most of the
   time people on the sidewalks will hear you coming and move aside, but
   usually the sidewalks are filled with clumps of people every 20 feet.
   At least there are no cars. My current fun thing to do is to skate
   around the manmade lake, including over the wooden humpback bridge :-)
   but, inlines are so "new" there that everybody stares. Admittedly,
   things are better on weekdays, but most people work on weekdays :-(

   From: Robert Schmunk ([e-mail])
   Date: Jan 1994

   The Rice stadium lot has been referred to as a minefield, but this is
   no longer entirely true. Part of it was repaved in late 1993, but
   unfortunately it is also the part that is closest to the music
   building. Consequently, any skater who ventures into this temptingly
   smooth area is going to have to learn how to play dodge with cars
   pulling into or out of parking spaces. The drivers of these cars only
   check to see if there are large vehicles which might crash into them,
   not 150-lbs skaters. This area might be more skateable on weekends,
   but then you'll have to put with teen-agers getting driving lessons
   from mom and dad.

   From: [e-mail] (John Guynn)
   Date: Unknown

   One of my favorite places to skate is Cullen Park. It's down I-10
   toward San Antonio. If you can get directions to the Velodrome (sp?)
   it's close to there. There's a 5km bike trail that makes for a great
   skate.

   If you're closer to the Pasadena area go by Strawberry Park. There's a
   1 mile path around the park. You're not supposed to skate on it but
   the park "closes" at 10pm and the park officials have told me they
   don't care if you skate on it after then.

    Dallas/Fort Worth/Arlington

   From: [e-mail] (Ken Corey)
   Date: Unknown

   There's a place I've heard about up in Plano, but my vote goes for the
   Whiterock Trail. We have a group of people that skate there. It goes
   from Hillcrest and LBJ down to Whiterock Lake.

   The trail is about 7 miles long, and has water fountains every so
   often. It's a nice trail. Royal and Greenville down to the lake is the
   easy end of the trail. Royal and Greenville up to Hillcrest and LBJ is
   the hard end of the trail.

   From: Joseph M. Izen ([e-mail])
   Date: Unknown

   I skate in Plano on the Chisholm Trail, sometimes on the Bluebonnet
   trail. You can pick up both near their intersection just south of Jack
   Carter Park by the soccer fields. The Chisholm Trail also passes by
   the Plano Public Library on Parker.

   From: [e-mail] (Shawn Grammer)
   Date: Unknown

   [...] there are lots of places to skate in the Dallas/Fort Worth area.
   The Whiterock, Chisolm, and Legacy Park trails have all been
   mentioned. They are the longest smooth concrete trails, and therefore
   the best for distance type recreational skating (of the 30 or so
   trails mapped in the DFW area). If you like street and ramp skating,
   those opportunities are available here too.

   From: [e-mail] (Marc Foster)
   Date: Unknown

   I also suggest a good place in Arlington - River Legacy Park. Take
   Airport Freeway west towards Fort Worth, get off in Euless on FM 157,
   head south through the Trinity Valley, and turn right at the first
   light after crossing the river (Green Oaks Blvd). It about a mile down
   Green Oaks, and on the right.

   From: [e-mail] (Judy T.texas)
   Date: Sat, 1 Oct 1994 00:23:16 GMT

   River Legacy Park in Arlington is very nice. Lot of paths along the
   Trinity River as well as an inner circular run. Trinity River park in
   Ft. Worth looks challenging. It has narrow asphalt paths but lot of
   bladers and bikes.

   There is also an off-the-beaten path a lot of people don't know about
   on the west side of Arlington on Green Oaks Blvd. This path parallels
   the Interlochen area. Has some good surprising slopes. Challenges your
   "fear factor". Loved it...

   South Grand Prairie (on your map) Nancy Dillard Lyon Rec. Trail is
   just what it says...Recreational but pleasant.

   Also, lot of the speed skaters go to Joe Pool Lake across the dam.
   Some rough spots but dam is smooth.

   The only problem I find in roller blading on these trails are the
   people who step out in front of you. I invested in pads just for
   "defensive" blading against those individuals who are oblivious to
   their surroundings.

   From: [e-mail] (Shooshie)
   Date: Sat, 18 Feb 1995 01:17:53 -0600

   I went to Fair Park - where they hold the Texas State Fair and where
   there is lots of unused concrete the rest of the year. (I'm probably
   the only one in Dallas who goes to Fair Park every month but October.)
   I glided around for hours with all that concrete to myself! Well...
   one other guy showed up, which actually would have been kinda nice if
   he'da stuck around and inspired me to bash some stairs or something,
   but he left. That's ok... I just did weird things like three-minute
   glides on one foot; you know you've found serious concrete when that
   kind of move is limited by how long you can hold up one foot!


     _________________________________________________________________

  OKLAHOMA

    Norman

   From: "Marc Foster" ([e-mail])
   Date: Tue, 13 Dec 1994 12:45:46 -0600 (CST)

   I suggest the OU campus. It has become increasingly skater-friendly
   the past three or four years. Nearly all the upheaved sidewalk seams
   have been graded flush to comply with the Americans with Disabilities
   Act (if we fall over skating on them, chances are it's hard to get a
   wheelchair over it, too). Not much in the way of slopes, unless you
   try the parking ramps, or even better, the ramps for the football
   stadium. Fall can be a problematic season, since the leaves and acorns
   don't get cleaned up regularly.


     _________________________________________________________________

  MISSOURI

    St. Louis

   From: [e-mail]
   Date: Tue, 27 Sep 1994 01:33:19 GMT

   For anyone looking to skate in St. Louis, the bike path in Forest Park
   is the premier place. Forest Park is the central west end, bounded by
   Hiway 40 on the south, Kighshighway on the east, Skinker on the west,
   and Lindell on the north. It's 10km around and consists of a nice mix
   of hills, curves, and flats. The bike path follows the outside edge of
   the park.

   One warning, though, the city is redoing the asphalt streets all over
   the park and some roads the bike path crosses may be grooved in
   preparation for new blacktop. There are also some road crossings where
   hills empty onto roads. I go early on the weekends to avoid major
   crowds although this will be less of a problem as the weather cools.


     _________________________________________________________________

  MINNESOTA

    Minneapolis

   If you want a really great place to rollerblade, Minneapolis opens up
   the Metrodome to rollerbladers only (I'm not sure about during the
   summer, but they do this all winter). It's about a half-mile (I think)
   circle of the smoothest concrete you've ever been on. There are two
   separate levels, one for serious rollerbladers and one for "the
   family." A "must-blade" if you're ever in the area.




     _________________________________________________________________



   -rec.skate FAQs maintained by Tony Chen ([e-mail])

   -"Where to Skate (Outdoors)" edited by Robert Schmunk
   ([e-mail])

     _________________________________________________________________

   *This logo is Copyright - 1994 by Anthony D. Chen. Permission is
   granted to use this logo in World Wide Web HTML files so long as this
   copyright notice is included as an HTML comment alongside the
   invokation (IMG SRC or HREF or otherwise) of the logo.

   The logo may not be sold for profit, nor incorporated in commercial
   documents or merchandise without prior written permission of the
   copyright holder.


     _________________________________________________________________

   TOC #1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #6 #7 #8 #9 #10 #11
Posted-By: auto-faq 3.1.1.2
Archive-name: rec-skate-faq/part8


   rec.skate FAQ: Part 8
     _________________________________________________________________

   [Outdoor Skate Logo, East] *

               REC.SKATE FAQ - PART 8: WHERE TO SKATE (OUTDOORS)

  SECTION 2: EASTERN NORTH AMERICA, EUROPE AND AUSTRALIA

   (Last update: March 1, 1995)



   Recent changes include:
     * Added Columbus, OH, info from [e-mail] (2/7)
     * Reorganized Australia section (2/9)
     * Added Cincinnati, OH, info from [e-mail] (2/24)
     * Added Toronto, ON, info from [e-mail] (2/26)
     * Added Tampa, FL, info from [e-mail] (2/26)



  TABLE OF CONTENTS
     * Great Lakes
          + Illinois
          + Indiana
          + Michigan
          + Ohio
          + Ontario
     * Northeast
          + Quebec
          + Massachusetts
          + Rhode Island
          + New York
          + New Jersey
          + Pennsylvania
          + Maryland
          + Washington, D.C.
     * Southeast and Caribbean
          + Kentucky
          + Tennessee
          + Georgia
          + Florida
          + Louisiana
          + Bahama Islands
     * Europe
          + The Netherlands
          + United Kingdom
     * Australia
          + Australian Capital Territory
          + Queensland
          + Victoria



   Information about Where to Skate (Outdoors) in Western North America
   appears in Part 7 of the rec.skate FAQ.

   Known local in-line skate FAQs on the net are:
    1. US/CO: Colorado Springs skating FAQ:
       http://usa.net/chanlz/blade.html
    2. US/IL: blades@uiuc Urbana-Champaign info:
       http://www.cen.uiuc.edu/~ar9079/blades.html
    3. US/NY: Paperless Guide to New York City, Cyberskate page:
       http://www.mediabridge.com/nyc/sports/activities/rollerblade
    4. US/PA: Meng-Weng Wong's Philly skate FAQ:
       http://www.seas.upenn.edu/~mengwong/phl.skating.html

    5. Neth: JHD 'Bonzo' Keukelaar's Netherlands skate FAQ:
       http://morra.et.tudelft.nl/~bonzo/inline/inline.html
    6. UK: Duncan Clarke's UK skate info:
       http://www.csv.warwick.ac.uk/~phulm/skate.stuff/.




     _________________________________________________________________

Great Lakes

  ILLINOIS

    Chicago

   From: [e-mail]
   Date: Unknown

   There are cycle paths which go both north and south of the "loop" (the
   downtown), along Lake Michigan. I have skated up north, starting at
   Lincoln Park. I have also skated through the downtown both on
   sidewalks and the streets, although, not during the business day (too
   many cars). From downtown, a nice skate is up Clark Street north to
   Wrigley Field. This is an interesting area, with used book/CD stores,
   etc. You can judge distance based on address numbers: 800/mile. For
   more information on where to skate (and not too), call the folks at
   Londo Mondo (sorry, but I can not remember the address). Remember,
   Chicago does have some really bad neighborhoods. For example, I would
   not go west of Wells, in the area around Division Street.

   From: [e-mail] (Tom Depke)
   Date: Tue, 19 Jul 1994 17:21:22 GMT

     [...] is there anywhere REALLY cool to skate around Chicago? I've
     read the FAQ about places to skate in Chicago but didn't see
     anything really outstanding...is there?

   It depends on the type of skating you are looking for. Is it speed,
   tricks, or scenary? I like the lakefront down by the Shedd Aquarium
   and Adler Planetarium for tricks and further north for scenary. The
   problem is that it gets too crowded in peak hours and you can not get
   a good workout in. So for that I go to Busse woods 53 & Golf. There is
   a smooth bike path which goes for 8 miles and never seems to get too
   crowded.

   From: [e-mail] (Fred Snyder)
   Date: Mon, 12 Sep 1994 22:07:28 GMT

   Having recently moved to Schaumburg, IL, I have discoverd the Busse
   Woods bike path, in Rolling Meadows. Best accessible from Higgins just
   east of 290, it's a 7.8 mile loop through surprisingly scenic terrain
   with a good surface, not too crowded, frequent water pumps, everything
   I could ask for except perhaps getting rid of the bicycles. It's no
   Lake Shore Drive, but now that I've moved to the 'burbs, it will do
   quite nicely. It still irks me that I have to drive somewhere to
   skate.

   From: [e-mail] (Ana G. Langlois)
   Date: 24 Oct 1994 01:40:16 GMT

   First of all, Chicago is a huge metro area. So if you mean downtown
   Chicago I'll tell you that one of the hottest places is along the lake
   shore. My wife and I were there today. We had a little skate. It was a
   lot of fun. It was real windy. Good work out. Thousands of people
   enjoy walking, soccor. rugby, running, bike riding, softball, kite
   flying, etc., etc., etc.

   Park and skate. If you come in from the south, park around the Field
   Museum or the Shedd Aquarium and skate north along the lake. From the
   north parking may be easier. There are parks everywhere that have
   parking. The multi use trail is good, but not perfect.

   In the northwest burbs there is a vert park. I forgot the name. I
   think it's in Hoffman Estates.

   Pick up a copy of Windy City Sports (free news magazine) you can get
   it at any sport shop in the downtown area. On Clark Street, north of
   the loop, there are a bunch of good stores: City Sweats, Londo Mondo,
   Rainbo. They can tell you where the inline scene really is. Londo
   Mondo (not on Clark actually) meets once or twice a week for fun
   skates, outside. Winter will probably put an end to that though.

   I hope that helps a little. The thing is that if you are in the
   northwest burbs (for example) you may not want to fight traffic to go
   downtown. So call a shop in the area you plan to be (or are) in and
   ask them for help. If they don't know anything try Londo Mondo, City
   Sweats or Rainbo.

    Urbana/Champaign

   If you have web access, blades@uiuc, a in-line skating group at the
   University of Illinois campus, serves info at
   http://www.cen.uiuc.edu/~ar9079/blades.html.

   From: [e-mail] (Clueless)
   Date: Unknown

   The [UIUC] Quad is a good place to do laps and play tag. (a group of
   us play almost every night starting between 9 and 9:30)

   The north quad has some nice stairs and a couple fountains to skate
   over when the water is turned off. Assembly hall parking lot and most
   of the other parking garages are good if you're looking for smooth
   pavement. (The later are also nice if it's raining :) We've been
   playing hockey in Assembly Hall parking lot, but there are problems
   with the sewars swallowing the ball. If anyone knows a better place
   where a lot of people can play (we had 13 tonight) hockey, please
   tell.

   There's a trail out near Windsor Road made for bikes and blades which
   is a good place to go if you want to skate distance.

  INDIANA

    Indianapolis

   From: [e-mail] (Gary Schmitt)
   Date: Unknown

   Hello! Anyone wishing to skate during some bad winter weather is
   invited to Indianapolis to skate at the RCA Dome. For those not
   familar with the dome-type skating thing, it's done indoors on the
   concourse (the circumferential hallway behind the stands). This makes
   for a smooth, 1/3 mile circuit, with just a few relatively mild
   expansion joints for excitement.

   There are usually a fair number of beginers within the group of rec
   skaters and there are always speed skaters training as well. The Indy
   Inliners have club night on Wednesdays, 5-9 p.m., whenever the Dome is
   open on Wednesdays. This season, most Wednesdays are skate dates, but
   call (317)824-DOME beforehand. There are also many other skating dates
   on the schedule, so call to check.


     _________________________________________________________________

  MICHIGAN

    Detroit

   From: [e-mail] (Dianne Marsh)
   Date: Wed, 27 Apr 1994 13:29:31 GMT

   It really depends on where you are going in Detroit. I recommend the
   "metro" parks in the suburbs. If you are staying in the city, the
   closest metro park will (probably) be Metro Beach, ... nice because
   the path briefly goes along the water, but flat. One of my favorite
   metro parks is Stony Creek (trail: 6 miles), which is about 30 miles
   north of the city near Rochester/Utica. If you are visiting farther to
   the west, Kensington Metro Park (near Milford/Brighton) has 8 miles of
   very hilly paved trails. Both Stony and Kensington encircle small
   lakes.

   If you visit one of the metro parks, you can pick up a map (free)
   which describes all of them. The map describes which parks have paved
   trails and includes probably the best street map of the metro Detroit
   area.

   I believe that the entry fee is $3 daily or $15 for an annual pass.
   The pass allows entry to any of the Huron-Clinton Metro Parks. I think
   that Tuesday is "free" day.

   For more information on the Huron-Clinton Metro Parks, call
   1-313-227-2757. The phone book also lists 2 toll free numbers, but
   they are under "Metropark Golf Courses". Try them if you like:
   800-234-6534, 800-477-2757.


     _________________________________________________________________

  OHIO

    Cincinnati

   From: [e-mail] (Stewart Rowe)
   Date: Unknown

   Two bike/hike trails near Cincinnati are also used by rollerbladers.

   The Little Miami trail follows an old railroad bed for 22 miles, from
   Milford, OH to Morrow OH, largely following the Little Miami National
   Scenic River. Grades are very mild. There is a 6-8 ft. paved trail and
   a parallel grass trail for horses. The best access, with parking,
   plumbing, and skate rental in season, is at Loveland, mile 9. There
   are similar facilities at Morrow (no rentals). Access at Milford is
   difficult; one must cross a major US highway at a nasty intersection.
   The Little Miami Trail is to be extended another 9 miles north to Fort
   Ancient during the 1994-5 fiscal years, if the budget holds.

   Weekend use is very heavy, with walkers, runners, bikers, baby
   carriages, dogs etc., especially near Loveland. One would be wise to
   start at Morrow during summer weekend afternoons. Better, pick a cold
   December morning!

   On the west side of the city, the county park district has recently
   opened an 8-mile paved loop, at Miami Whitewater Park (we have two
   Miami Rivers, Great and Little). This trail is used by walkers,
   bicycles and skaters. Though mostly level, it has some grades
   requiring reasonable skill. The parking area has toilets, food and
   skate-rental concessions in season. An overlapping inner trail loop is
   heavily used, but most of the larger loop sees little foot or bike
   traffic. Some lightly-traveled nearby roads are used by cyclists, but
   I've never seen skaters on roads in southwest Ohio--I expect any law
   officer would find some reason to tell them to get off.

   From: [e-mail] (Donn Lee)
   Date: 24 Feb 1995

   Lunken Airport off Hwy 50 on the east side of town is popular with
   trail and trick skaters alike. The 10k (6.2 mile) paved loop around
   this municipal airport/golf course has some small inclines and serves
   cyclists and joggers, in addition to skaters.

   The real attraction at Lunken is the 10-foot half-pipe however. The
   pipe has a smooth, stainless, sheet metal surface supported by a
   wooden frame. Platforms on each side of the pipe are fairly roomy
   allowing for breaks and trick discussions. Getting to the platforms at
   the top is easy via stairs in back of the pipe. A metal coping on the
   top edge of the pipe is excellent for stalls and handstands. The pipe
   is also excellent for learning: there is about 13 feet of flat at the
   bottom of the pipe and the regulars are always willing to help someone
   new (one only needs to get over the intimidation of the 3-4 feet of
   vert). The trough itself is approximately 25 feet long. Most folks
   inline the pipe, but skateboarders and BMX'ers also show up. Guys,
   gals, adults, kids, they all skate it. Mini-bleachers provide
   ground-level seating for observers, friends, and medical personnel
   (haha!). In addition to the half-pipe, there is a mini- skate park
   with quarter-pipes, obstacles, and ramps. Admission to the pipe and
   skate park is $2/day. The pipe is open everyday during the summer and
   on the weekends spring and fall. A helmet is required. Be sure to say
   hi to regulars Rob (who got 3rd place at Nationals), Bryan, Erica,
   Donn, and Dan.

    Columbus

   From: [e-mail]
   Date: Tue, 07 Feb 1995 13:53:08 -0500 (EST)

   A great place to skate about one hour out of Columbus is on the
   Kokosing Gap Trail, a rails-to-trails project from Mount Vernon to
   Danville, Ohio. It is paved, 10-foot wide and is great for beginning
   and advanced speed skaters. The Trail is 14 miles long and follows a
   course along the Kokosing River through villages and farmland. It has
   a restroom/picnic shelter in Gambier (home of Kenyon College) which is
   open May-November. Plenty of park benches and shade along the way.

   This Trail sponsors a 3-mile Fun Roll and 9.1-mile Skate Challenge the
   first weekend of October...this year to be October 7. Information on
   Trail and race may be obtained from: Phil Samuell, P.O. Box 129,
   Gambier, OH 43022 or e-mail at [e-mail].

    Dayton

   The best places to skate in the Dayton area are on the bike paths.
   Bike, joggers, and skaters (bladers? :) coexist as long as the
   cardinal rule is followed: bike right: skate/run/walk left.

   The River Corridor is approximately 13 miles long, including street
   connectors (not many). Parts are in dire need of paving, but the run
   from W. Carrollton to the Carillon Tower is fairly decent, and free of
   pedestrians for the most part. There is a steel bridge that is best
   walked across near W. Carrollton. Whitman's Bike Shop (in W.
   Carrollton) is a good place to meet, get repairs, etc.

   The Xenia-Yellow Springs bike path is 6 miles long, gently sloping up
   to the north. It's an excellent way to build up your endurance by
   skating hard north, then working on turns, spins, etc. back south.
   Fairly straight. Note: there have been problems with exhabitionists on
   this path. Do not skate alone. Young's Dairy is near the Yellow
   Springs terminus, and is a great way to put on the pounds you just
   worked off :).

   Planned additions to these routes include the Beavercreek connector
   (connecting the River Corridor and Xenia-Yellow Springs) and the
   completion of the Xenia-Yellow Springs path south to Morrow, Ohio. The
   N-S path would then run from Cincinnati to Xenia. The River Corridor
   will eventually be extended south to Hamilton, near Cincinnati. The
   bike/skate/run paths would then form a giant H across south-west Ohio,
   encompassing more than a hundred miles of paved paths! You can help
   speed up the process by contributing to your local/state "Rails to
   Trails" organizations.


     _________________________________________________________________

  ONTARIO

    Toronto

   From: [e-mail] (Stan Krogh)
   Date: Fri, 16 Sep 1994 12:53:15 GMT

   If you are just interested in a flat skate take the ferry across to
   Center Island...you can skate on a wide road without car traffic from
   one end of the island to the other - about 5 miles one way.

   From: [e-mail] (Dan Hogg)
   Date: 16 Sep 1994 18:48:22 GMT

   I just returned from Toronto yesterday and was able to get in a couple
   of evening skates while I was there. I stayed downtown at the
   Sheraton, so only know about that area. First, skating isn't allowed
   on the street (this is a recent ordinance) except along the side of
   the street marked for bikes. Not all streets have these. Second, the
   sidewalks are pretty crummy, with lots of cracks and, of course, each
   section seems to be set at a difference height, making the ride
   gnarly.

   On the other hand, people on the sidewalk expect the unexpected, so
   skaters are viewed as part of the scene. I saw about a dozen skaters
   out each time I was out. Off Bay Street (Avenue ?) are lots of people
   out just wandering around that you have to watch for. They like to
   watch you too! There's a big street scene that has all kinds of people
   out gawking and being gawked.

   Queen Street is an artsy area with pretty cool people, but the
   sidewalks suck and at night, all the businesses put their garbage out
   on the sidewalk for pickup.

   Around City Hall, it says no skating, but I found the cops didn't
   enforce it. They were watching me jump the park benches and never said
   a word. The benches, BTW, have no backs, so if you can jump, you'll
   have no trouble getting over them. I wasn't doing any grinds or rails,
   so that may be why no hassles.

   Oh, one more thing...watch out for the trolley tracks - they are
   everywhere when you least want them and several side by side, so I
   couldn't get over them in a single jump. Have fun!

   From: [e-mail] (Jonathan Singer)
   Date: 17 Sep 1994 17:09:02 GMT

   Greg Franks ([e-mail]) wrote:

     My brother recommends Mt. Pleasant Cemetery.

   Mount Pleasant Cemetery has been considered one of the best places to
   skate. Two more suggestions:

    1. The Beaches. It's a nice area, with a very nice, very long
       boardwalk running along Kew(?) Beach. You can find it around Queen
       St, heading to the far east (check a subway may and it should be
       pretty clear, if you don't have a tour guide).

    2. The Don Valley. Well, there's basically this big, long park system
       that runs parallel to the Don River and Don Valley Parkway. It
       extends from North York (Sunnybrook Park) down to the Beaches.
       I've ridden about 10 km along the park system, and had very few
       complaints. I will mention one thing though: it's very easy to
       take a wrong turn and end up in East York. So either travel with a
       friend, ask directions quite frequently, or E-mail me, and I'll
       try to give you a more specific route. Keep in mind though that
       the park system would take about the entire afternoon, and it's
       largely about scenery more than intense skating. (Last point: if
       in the parks, go north to south - I've heard that doing it the
       other way can be quite the workout).



   From: [e-mail] (Eric Gee)
   Date: Sun, 26 Feb 1995 03:02:40 GMT

   If you are ever in the Toronto, southern Ontario area, here is a list
   of cool places to skate...

    1. High Park, just west of Toronto. A fairly large sized park in the
       middle of the city. This Oasis of Toronto has many paved roads and
       some very challenging hills. The park is used by many cyclists,
       runners, and in-line skaters. Every Sunday (during the spring and
       summer), the Toronto In-Line Skating Club practices around what is
       now known as the Grenadier loop, which is an aprox. 1 km loop in
       the heart of the park.
    2. The Martin Goodman Trail, if your into endurance skates, this
       trail is way too short for any serious skating. This trail is
       listed in the back of one of Rollerblade's skate manuals. In my
       opinion, the trails are too narrow and usually too crowded for any
       kind of serious skating. The advantages of this trail is the
       pavement. It is very, very smoooothhhhh. When the horse- back
       police patrols and the cyclists and runners have gone home for the
       day, the trail becomes a speed devils playground.
    3. The newly developed lakefront trail. This trail runs from
       Burlinton Ontario all the way to Trenton (I think thats around 350
       or so km). It incorporates all currently existing trails into one
       huge network connection. I have cycled parts of the trail and they
       are still kind of under construction. If you choose to skate the
       trail watch out for the sections covered in loose gravel and sand.
    4. Toronto Skydome. Home of the skydome fitness club. The club has a
       winter season training area on the 500 level of the skydome. The
       track is a gradual circle runningalong the perimeter of the dome.
       The pace in there can be devilishly fast. Imagine skating along a
       glass smooth surface with no headwinds in a tunnel running almost
       straight, 20 feet wide.



   From: [e-mail] (Douglas Champigny)
   Date: 27 Jan 95 01:43:42 GMT

   If you can make it to Toronto this winter, try the skating at the
   Skydome. Ready-to-Roll runs open skating every Monday-Thursday night,
   up on the 500 level. This gives you a large oval around the entire
   seating area, and is high enough to continue when other events are
   down below.


     _________________________________________________________________

Northeast

  QUEBEC

    Montreal

   From: [e-mail] (Paul Yatrou)
   Date: Unknown

   There are several bike paths in the city. Try the Lachine canal bike
   path. Go to the old port in Old Montreal (Vieux Montreal) and skate
   Westwards along the river until you get to the Lachine canal path
   entrance (ask anyone with blades on for directions). The path is
   around 8 km long one way.

   There is another path that ventures West towards Montreal West along
   deMaisoneuve Boulevard (beginning at Greene Ave.), one that heads East
   towards the Olympic Stadium (can't remember what street), and along
   the North shore of Mtl (along Gouin Boulevard) --- all in all plenty
   of klicks of skating available.

   Of course, you can street skate along Ste-Catherine, St. Laurent, St.
   Dennis streets (among the most interesting in the city).


     _________________________________________________________________

  MASSACHUSETTS

    Boston

   The trails on the Charles (at least when I left in 1989) could not
   meet this policy. There are plenty of places where it would be
   physically impossible for one bicycle to pass another unless there was
   no opposing traffic. Portions of the trail up near the Allston exit of
   the Mass Pike immediately come to mind.

   I lived in Boston for 10 years. Fortunately, I was able to schedule my
   work to avoid the crunch time on the trails--in to work after 10AM,
   leave work after 6PM. The most fun was skating at night along the
   Charles (yes, O'Leary, with light and helmet). This may have been
   dangerous, but I rarely, if ever, saw any sinister types along the
   park at that hour.

   There are some pretty decent places to skate in Boston other than the
   Charles. The linear park along the new Orange Line wasn't bad. I did a
   lot of my practicing on the linear park from Davis to Alewife on the
   Red Line. At that time, the nearly-empty Alewife parking lot, with its
   gentle ramps and not-so- gentle spirals, was an excellent place to
   learn hills.

   From: Damon@nomaD
   Date: Unknown

   Maximus Skate Park has a half-pipe and a quarter-pipe street skating
   area. 576-4723.

   From: [e-mail] (Michael L. Dickens)
   Date: Unknown

   FYI: There are 2 Night Skates in Boston that happen on a regular
   basis:

   one is on Tuesday night, meet at the Hatch Shell on the Charles River;
   leaves around 8:30 pm (or as soon as it's reasonably dark). Your $10
   covers 3 glow sticks & some soft drinks. $5 each time thereafter. This
   is a leisurely skate--no tricks or racing or jumping or stairs, etc...
   unless you individually want to ;-> This skate is sponsored by John
   Gilmore, who is somehow related to RollerBlade.

   the other is Thursday night, meet at the Trinity Church in Copley
   Square; leaves around 8:30 pm (or as soon as the leaders arrive & want
   to go). Free to all, but this one is fast-paced. You can do jumps,
   stairs, natural ramps, bricks, and any number of these combined. You
   can also choose to go around & just watch; but you'll have to skate
   fast to keep up. Frequent stops to let the leaders show off. If you
   plan to participate, wear full protective padding, including large
   knee pads, and wrist guards at a minimum. A helmet is recommended
   (just in case....). The powers that lead give a short lecture on safe,
   polite, respectful skating at the first stop. This skate is totally
   unsponsored--skate free at your own risk.

   By the Charles River, just get to harvard.
   Allston/cambridge exit off Mass Pike.

   Memorial drive: nice road... 8 hours open ... 11am to 7pm..
   skated on sunday... only open on sundays ...
   open for "recreational vehicles" only...
   pretty neat... had two sets of cones set up... plus about 2 or 3 miles
   of 4 lane road to skate... (bikes, skates, foot, unicycles,
   skateboards..)
   asphalt...few cracks..no real hills ... just by the cones.. mostly
   flat .. by river ... nice....straight away...no loop....
   not really crowded... too long to be crowded...short wait for slalom
   .. one rental van ...

   From: [e-mail] (Michael L. Dickens)
   Date: Unknown

   [e-mail] (Joe Scianna) wrote:

     I recently discovered the Bike path which begins in Bedford and
     extends to Davis Square in Cambridge. It's perfect for blading. The
     surface is extremely smooth. It's well marked with mile markers, so
     there's no quessing distance travelled.

     It's a nice alternative to the Esplanade. Although, blading along
     the Charles River at sunset is tough to beat!

   This is the "famed" Minuteman Path--~17 Miles of ~6' wide smooth
   pavement. They've finally taken out the speed bumps that existed at or
   near intersections, and replaced them with ground-level slabs of rock.
   Much easier to get over the slabs.

   The path starts in Davis Square between the Au Bon Pain & the Theater,
   just across from the T-stop. The surface begins as fairly smooth
   brick, and eventually converts into smooth pavement. You have to cross
   a few big streets (like Mass. Ave in Arlington) before getting to the
   longer sections. Once you get to Alewife (right at the T-stop), you're
   away from the large busy crossings, and can start the speed skating!

   ps. The path is slightly inclined, allowing for some great
   speeds--I've gone a few miles doing 2.5 minutes / mile pace --> 24 MPH
   continuous on 4 wheels!

   From: [e-mail] (Mark R Stallard)
   Date: Tue, 5 Jul 1994 22:55:41 GMT

   My favorite place to skate is on the Minuteman Rail Trail, which runs
   from Davis Square, Somerville all the out to Bedford - 11+ miles long
   each way. Since this was originally a railroad, the hills are very
   gentle. The pavement is overall quite good after the first 1-1/2 miles
   out of Davis Square. There are several places to eat and get
   refreshements along the way.

   To get there, take the T Red Line to the Davis station, and leave at
   the Meacham Street exit. If you're lucky, you can get away with riding
   the subway with your skates on. Right at the exit is an Au Bon Pain
   sandwich and coffee shop, and they never hassle me about serving
   myself on skates. Please don't try it, though, if you're not sure you
   can skate with a lunch tray.

   The path starts right outside the restaraunt. The first mile is pretty
   rough; you'll have to skate over a lot of brick walkways, sandy
   pavement and the like. You might be confused when approaching the
   intersection of Mass Ave. and Cameron Street - keep an eye out for the
   entrace; it's on the other side of Mass Ave near the Buy-Rite liquor
   store.

   You can also elect to start the path at the Alewife T Station.

   Once in Arlington, the pavement quality improves substantially.
   Repaved just last summer. There is one more path hiatus; this is
   Arlington center. You have to cross both streets in a busy
   intersection. After that, though, it's smooth skating.

   My only complaint is that, like all good things, the path is overused.
   On pleasant weekend afternoons you can expect a number of people with
   small children, even baby carriages. A lot of bicyclists,
   unfortunately, are real jerkoffs, too. They'll ride two abreast and
   converse with each other, making it difficult for others to pass.

   And then, of course, we have the dilletante racers. You know, the guys
   with the very expensive bikes and bike clothing who are out to set new
   personal bests. In this setting I would say they are the most
   dangerous users of the path, because they often have no patience for
   anyone moving slower than them. These guys should stick to the
   roadways and not bother with the bike paths.

   Anyway, I highly recommend the Minuteman path to all skaters.

   From: bnh@active (Brian Hess)
   Date: Wed, 6 Jul 1994 18:19:44 GMT

   Mark R Stallard ([e-mail]) wrote:

     My favorite place to skate is on the Minuteman Rail Trail, which
     runs from Davis Square, Somerville all the out to Bedford - 11+
     miles long each way. Since this was originally a railroad, the hills
     are very gentle. The pave- ment is overall quite good after the
     first 1-1/2 miles out of Davis Square. There are several places to
     eat and get refreshements along the way.

   If you're a novice, or don't want to do more than a couple miles, you
   might like to know:

   The very smoothest pavement, with virtually no sand, only a few
   expansion joints, and with the fewest road crossings (all of which
   slow you down to a dead stop unless you are foolish) is:

   from Bedford Street (4/225) in Lexington out to South Street (Bedford
   depot) in Bedford. There are only 4 or 5 road crossings in 2.5 miles,
   only one of which is really busy (Hartwell Ave.) This makes a 5 mile
   round trip.

   You can take the 62 bus from Alewife (please don't wear your skates!),
   get off well past Lexington center, at the stop next after the
   flashing yellow light (ask the driver for the Lexington public works
   building if you're not sure). If you drive, park at either the
   northeast corner of the track/road crossing in the public works lot
   (in front, outside the fence they lock at night!) or behind a little
   office park on the southwest corner of the track/road crossing. It's 3
   minutes east of route 95/128 on 4/225.

   From: [e-mail] (Jeff Schreiber)
   Date: Wed, 19 Oct 1994 10:42 -0400

   Last night a friend and I decided to try again for a journey into the
   realms of downtown Boston for a little skate. We had tried once last
   friday, but we didn't get very far. (We made the mistake of heading to
   the Green line via Boston College. It took 2 hours once we got past
   128 on the Mass Pike). This time we made the trek up to Alewife, and
   rode in on the red line to Park Street. We did some nice cruising in
   and around that side of the Common, and then headed out for more
   congested areas! (for those of you hockey players in the Boston Area,
   the pool in the Common, by the State House, is drained, and would be
   cool for hockey!).

   Well, we headed down along State street towards Quincy Market, cruised
   in around there for a bit, but the cobblestones were a little too
   rough. We headed over to the harbor, spent some time cruising along
   the wharfs, and hung out at the Aquarium for a while, watching the
   seals doing stalls and wall rides in their pens (the seals are
   definitely cool!). Then we decided to head back through Quincy Market,
   and up to the City hall.....

   Absolutely incredible! I can't say how amazing this area was. The
   brick plaza was a little rough on the legs, but it was worth it. There
   is a T stop right there, with brick walls, and the brick walls were at
   about an 80 degree angle, which made for some incredible wall rides.
   Then we looked back towards the other side. The beauty of a field of
   stairs! It was a stair bashing heaven! Nice wide steps with small
   drops that made them skateable for even a first time basher. Like I
   said, the brick was a little tough to skate on, but bumpy is a
   relative term for Stair Bashers! there were sets of stairs, about
   50-100 long steps, that went in perfect sets! 4 steps, 5 feet
   platform, 4 steps, platform, 4 steps, platform, 4 steps, platform, 8
   steps, 15 feet, 4 steps, 5 feet, 4 steps, 5 feet, then finally a nice
   cruise of step, 4 feet, step, 4 feet (for about 5 or 6 steps!) A
   definite must-skate for anyone within an hour or 2 to even a commuter
   rail!!!


     _________________________________________________________________

  RHODE ISLAND

   From: [e-mail] (Tim59)
   Date: 22 Sep 1994 14:41:03 -0400

   As requested, directions to Rhode Island 14 mile bike path.

   Info:
   "The path is approx. 14.5 miles long extending from Independence Park
   In Bristol to India Point Park in Providence. Constructed along an
   inactive rail line, the path offers some of the State's most scenic
   views of coastline, estuaries and woodlands. The bikeway has a 10 foot
   wide asphalt paved path with grass shoulders..."(1.)

   The path crosses four towns and eight State parks. The surface is very
   smooth and mostly flat with some very gradual hills. There are eating
   places, shops and resting areas along the path within these 8 towns. I
   feel it is best to start in scenic Bristol ...plenty of parking and
   the path starts right on the Bristol harbor. The path follows the
   water and through nice neighborhoods, past boat yards and state parks.
   Most days, you face the wind on the way out and have a tail wind back
   to the start in Bristol. It does cross 3 very busy streets so be
   careful.

   Directions:
   Bristol, R.I. The start is located on Route 114 on the Bristol harbor.
   Take Route 95 N or S to Providence. Take Route 195 East to Fall River/
   Cape Cod Take Exit 7 off 195 East. Follow 114South for approx. 13
   miles to Bristol Harbor.

   Additional Info:
   Ask for Jane at Bristol Chamber of Commerce [phone]. She said
   she would send BayPath maps out to anyone interested.

   If you go, please look for me. I'm male, 35, about 5'6".... I always
   wear a baseball cap with Mickey Mouse on it. Say HELLO. I'm there
   every night and different times on the weekend. Email comments on the
   Path. I'm sure you will enjoy the ride!!!!!

   ref. (1.) Bristol County Chamber East Bay Bike Path Map


     _________________________________________________________________

  NEW YORK
     * New York City
          + Manhattan
          + Bronx
          + Brooklyn
     * Long Island
     * Westchester
     * Albany
     * Niagara

    New York City-Manhattan

   Warning: It is illegal to skate anywhere in the New York City subway
   system. The fine is $100. That's enough for a new set of wheels and
   bearings, so be warned.

   If you have web access, the Paperless Guide to New York City
   Cyberskate page contains a little bit of info about Central Park. It's
   located at
   http://www.mediabridge.com/nyc/sports/activities/rollerblade/.

   From: David Madeo ([e-mail])
   Date: Unknown

   Depending on how hard core you are, you can skate year round in NYC.
   Windproof insulated garments help. The prime season is March though
   October. The New York Road Skaters Association (NYRSA) sponsors events
   throughout the season. They can be contacted at 212-534-7858.

   The most popular location in NYC is Central Park on the 6 mile loop.
   Cars are barred for several hours each day during the week during the
   "summer" season (which lasts until November) and all weekend
   throughout the year. While you are sharing the road with bikes,
   joggers, and walkers, there's usually plenty or room since there are
   three lanes. When the autos are allowed back in, there's a sidewalk
   for walkers, and a lane for bikes/skates. It does get a bit crowded
   then.

   Racing/Loops
   The small loop goes counter-clockwise from 59th and Broadway around
   taking the left at 72nd past Tavern on the Green and back to 59th.
   This is relatively tame mild rolling hills.

   The big loop is just under 10k if you're interested in racing. Go
   straight at the 72nd turnoff, you go past the Met, around a long
   turning downhill and along the top of the park. Then you're on a big
   winding uphill. There's a long downhill leading back to the other side
   of the 72nd crossover. While lots of people skate here, this is the
   domain of the speed skaters. I'd be careful doing the big loop at
   night; the top of the park isn't the nicest neighborhood.

   It's important to go counter-clockwise. Most of the serious accidents
   in the park have been caused by people going the wrong direction.

   Slalom Course
   Just south of the 72'nd crossover on the west side right outside the
   Tavern on the Green is the cone lane. Most weekends, the cones are out
   after noon. There's usually a line of people running the course and a
   whole gaggle of tourists/skaters/bikes watching. There's a short
   course that's usually not being used. This is where the speedskaters
   hang out. They usually gather around 7pm especially on Tuesday nights
   to do laps of the big loop.

   Dancing
   Last, there's skater's way. It's a road that was blocked off and
   turned into some volleyball courts and a skating area. This is the
   place for dancers to congregate. There's a path connecting the cones
   area to skater's way. The bottom of skaters way connects to the 72nd
   crossover. Typically there are three types of things going on. Some of
   the skaters dance to the music of their headphones and/or the sound
   system someone always sets up. Then there's the oval where people
   throw their backpacks in the middle and skate around. Further down,
   they alternate between hockey, jumping trashcans, and teaching skating
   classes. You'll find a lot of quad skaters here as well.

   Bandshell/Cherry Hill
   The newest area in the park to skate in. [It] is just east of Skaters
   way. There's a large tiled area where people skate in a circle.
   There's the occasional hockey game though it's being discouraged by
   the Parks Dept. (Too many other skaters and it's not enclosed.) This
   is a good safe place to learn crossovers. Cherry Hill is a bit north
   of skaters way and is basically a paved circle next to a lake. Mostly
   beginners here.

   Wollman Rink
   This is where people go to learn how to skate in a safe controlled
   environment. It's in the SE corner of Central Park.

   Street Skating
   Broadway and Fifth Avenue (especially at night) all are used by
   skaters fairly extensively. There's a night skate every Tuesday night
   (rain date is Wednesday) 8PM at Blades West (72nd between Columbus and
   Broadway). Helmets, lights, and safety gear are all strongly
   recommended.

   There's a lot of places to do tricks, stairs, handrails, grinds in New
   York. Too many to list and probably better not to. If you're really
   interested in this, you'll have to find the right crowd first. Go on a
   night skate or hang out at the cones on a weekend.

   From: [e-mail] (Ricky Marshall)
   Date: Unknown

   I checked the Road Runners' map of Central Park. The distances they
   give are:


 71 W to  72 E: 1 mile, 716 yards, 31 inches
 72 E to  90 E:        1748,       26
 90 E to 103 E:        1351,       11
103 E to 102 W: 1,     1264,       19
102 W to  71 W: 1,      246,       22



   It comes to 6 miles, 48 yards, 1 inch, or exactly 9700 meters, taking
   39.37 inches to the meter. The Road Runners give the overall length as
   9704 (I guess they use 1 more decimal place).

   The so-called Terrace Road between East and West 72nd Streets is 542
   yards, 3 inches, making the lower loop 2760.5 meters.

   From: [e-mail] (Pamela A. Schaefer)
   Date: Unknown

   Another great place to skate is along the south west side of
   Manhattan. You can start at the Hudson River Park (Chambers St.),
   continue to World Financial Center, then onto Battery Park City, and
   end up at Battery Park. All this, without ever having to be on a
   street. It is also great because the entire route is along the water.
   And for people interested in "stair jumping", there is a great set at
   the entrance to Hudson River Park.

   From [e-mail] (Robert B. Schmunk)
   Date: Mon Dec 6 13:13:12 1993

   [Hudson River Park] is a decent place to skate, but while skaters
   (particularly teenagers) can often be seen doing tricks on the steps
   at the north entrance, it's a no-no. There's usually some park
   security folks wandering around in little white trucks, and whenever
   they get to the steps, they chase away anybody they catch skating on
   them. They've chased me off twice.

   From [e-mail] (Robert B. Schmunk)
   Date: Mon Sep 19 16:27:30 1994

   A prime Manhattan skating place has apparently just been opened and/or
   re-paved. At least, I found out about it during a recent Tuesday night
   skate. (BTW, due to an accident in June, helmets are now required
   during the skate.)

   Just go to the Chambers St. entrance to Hudson River Park, but instead
   of going into the park and heading south, go north along West St.
   Between the street and the waterfront, you'll find yourself on a
   smooth bike/skate/ped path which goes at least as far as 11th St. Most
   of this path is fairly smooth except for some entrances to piers or
   such. At such places, there may also be large concrete barriers to
   slow down cyclists and skaters who might be bombing along.

    New York City-Bronx

   From: David Madeo ([e-mail])
   Date: Unknown

   Mulali Skate Park is the only accessible ramp in New York. This is a
   block away from Yankee Stadium. There's a mini 1/2 with a stair going
   up and a larger 1/2 that you have to pump to get up on. There's a
   whole bunch of 1/4 pipes and launch ramps. Occasionally these get
   demolished by the local gangs so ask around first.

    New York City-Brooklyn

   From: David Madeo ([e-mail])
   Date: Unknown

   Prospect park in Brooklyn is similiar to Central Park, but not as
   crowded. It's also a lot smaller loop. Some people do a loop in one
   park, skate through the city and over the Brooklyn Bridge and do a
   loop in the other park. The Promenade is a good place to walk, but
   contrary to what some people say, not to skate. The pavement is
   extremely broken up and the pedestrians are extremely slow, hard of
   hearing and erratic. Also, going over the Brooklyn Bridge is possible,
   but the wooden slats will have your feet buzzing for a long time. You
   will not forget skating it. Nice views though.

    Long Island

   From: David Madeo ([e-mail])
   Date: Unknown

   Finally, there's a trail on Long Island a lot of skaters use. It's a
   five mile trail along the Wantagh parkway from Cedar Shore park in
   Wantagh, to Jones Beach. The cement path goes from Long Island over
   several smaller islands and bridges to Jones Island fronting the
   Atlantic Ocean. It's flat and there isn't much in between the two
   ends. Bikes and joggers also use the trail. It's much easier to park
   at Cedar Shore than Jones Beach during the summer.

   From: [e-mail] (JRGanson)
   Date: 24 Aug 1994 22:53:04 -0400

   Take the Grand Central Pkwy to the Northern State to the Wantagh Pkwy.
   Proceed south on the Wantagh to Merrick Road East. Exit to Merrick
   road, turn right proceed approx two lites the turn right into Cedar
   Creek park. This is the staging area for skating on the bike path
   along the pkwy doen to Jones Beach (about 4 mi). Also lots of skaters
   in the park esp Wed, Fri, Sun when LIRTSA (Long Island Road and Track
   Skating Assoc. meets for informal skating at 6:30 PM (See you there!)

    Westchester

   From: [e-mail] (Dave Torok)
   Date: 3 Aug 1994 03:20:06 GMT

   Joseph P. Cernada ([e-mail]) sez:

     There's a fair amount of skaters at the Kensico Damn park/plaza in
     Westchester County. I thinks it's in Valhalla (or maybe North White
     Plains). Decent paved path, just under a mile around. Large concrete
     area in the middle to practice moves. Good selection of stairs and
     things to jump over. Cones set up for slaloming.

   I also skate at the dam much of the time. It can get crowded, and
   between Memorial Day and Labor Day they charge $1.25 parking, but if
   you go in the late afternoon it's free. Good place for beginners.
   Seems to be a decent social scene & good for people-watching. I'm a
   beginning-intermediate so I can't comment on the center area or cone
   area other than being an impressed spectator.

    Albany

   From: [e-mail] (Heather)
   Date: Unknown

   When I want a good workout, I head down to a nice path that runs
   between the Hudson River and I-787. It's called the Corning Fitness
   Trail, and it heads from Watervliet down to Downtown Albany. It's
   about 5 miles in length. Although it's designed more for bikers and
   runners and has a few bumps in the pavement, it's a good place to
   skate.

   From: [e-mail] (Scott Weintraub)
   Date: 18 Sep 1994 23:31:50 GMT

   The campus is decent but nothing special, IMO. You can find some
   really nice skating around the capitol buildings though. Skating is
   permitted there so the cops won't give you any problem and it's all
   marble. I don't know what kind of skating you're into but if you're
   into street, you'll find some really nice stairs, jumps, grinds, etc,
   there. And if you're not into that stuff, it's just really smooth and
   fun.

   From: [e-mail] (Lorre Smith)
   Date: Sun, 18 Sep 1994 20:54:22

   All these are assuming you want to roller skate. Ice is different.

   The interesting thing about Albany for skaters is that the city gets
   really empty after about 6pm and you can skate just about anywhere
   (except Lark Street) unhindered by car traffic. There is a big hill
   right in the middle of the city, though - you could scream your way
   right into the Hudson River. There are a couple of college campuses in
   the city, but not decent skating on them. The University (west of
   downtown on Washington or Western Avenues) has decent but not great
   parking lots - the podium here is interesting there if you're into
   long colonades. If you have a car, well, you got a different story.
   Guptil's skating arena and Rollerama are the rinks - they're in the
   phone book if you want to call them for directions. There are 11 miles
   of bike trails along the Mohawk and Hudson Rivers, and there are lots
   of people who say that the park in Saratoga Springs (24-mile drive
   straight north on Highway 87-exit 13 north) is awesome. There's an
   interesting outdoor track on the north end of Troy (103rd Street in
   Lansingburg) straight up route 4 and then about four blocks east on
   103rd Street.

    Niagara

   From: [e-mail]
   Date: Sat, 2 Jul 1994 20:51:00 GMT

   The Amherst Bike Path is long, uncrowded, boring and windy. Cross the
   border. Park at Niagra-on-the-Lake and skate south on the bike path
   along the Niagra Scenic Pkwy. I've skated in Philadelphia, in parks in
   New Jersey, in Manhattan, in Rhode Island and in Boston and Cambridge
   and this is the prettiest stretch of road I've been on.

   If you skate far enough you can get a good view of the Lewiston-Porter
   bridge and the rapids. After you finish the skate there is an ice
   cream store on the river side of the main st in N-o-t-L that sells
   rhubarb frozen yogurt (it's set back from the road; next to a
   photo-shop).


     _________________________________________________________________

  NEW JERSEY

    Hoboken

   See InLine August/September 1994 (vol 3, no 7), p. 9, for some info
   about skating Hoboken.

    Sandy Hook National Park

   From: Dennis Black ([e-mail])
   Date: Unknown

   My personal favorite is Sandy Hook National Park (NJ). It's on the
   south side of Staten Island. Check out a NJ map. It's about an hour
   from NYC, depending upon traffic. There's a ferry from South Street
   Seaport ($$$$ 25. round trip). It has 20+ miles of roads, and only a
   minimal amount of people(a few joggers and a few bicycles) after
   6:00PM and day. Just a handful of skaters so far. Also one side is the
   bay and the other side is ocean, so on days like today and tomorrow
   where it is 90+ inland, on the hook it will only get to the high 70's,
   low 80's.

    Saddle River County Park

   From: [e-mail] (Joseph Ogulin)
   Date: Unknown

   To the Fair Lawn area of Saddle River County Park (SRCP)... this is
   where the slalom course is:
   GSP North to exit 160. Turn left at the light at the end of the ramp.
   Follow this road over Route 4. It becomes Paramus Rd. here. Follow
   Paramus Rd. to the first light, turn left. Pass the signs that say
   things like "Welcome to Fair Lawn" and "Say No to Drugs." On your
   right, after passing these signs, you will find a small road which has
   signs (small ones) that say "Bike Route" and "Parking for Bike Path
   and Tennis Courts." Turn right here, and park in the lot.

   To the Dunkerhook (Paramus) area of SRCP:
   Follow the above directions, except go straight at the first light.
   Pass the cemetery on your right. You'll see a sign on your left that
   says "Dunkerhook Area, Saddle River County Park." Turn left there and
   follow any other signs.

   To the Ridgewood area of SRCP:
   GSP North to exit 163. Follow Route 17 North to the Ridgewood Ave.
   exit. Head toward Ridgewood (you'll loop back over the highway). After
   you pass Paramus Rd., look on your right. When you see the duck pond
   (and signs mentioning that it's the Ridgewood Wild Duck Pond of SRCP),
   turn right into the area.

   I can't recall how to get to the Glen Rock area. Sorry.

   To Fair Lawn and Dunkerhook from the north:
   If you're coming from the north on GSP South, use exit 163 (Route 17).
   Exit at Century Rd. and head toward Paramus/Fair Lawn/Glen Rock (or
   whatever it says). You will not cross over Route 17. Follow Century
   Rd. to Paramus Rd. There will be a cemetery on your right (this is the
   intersection mentioned in the Fair Lawn and Dunkerhook). To get to
   Fair Lawn, go straight. To get to Dunkerhook, turn right. Follow the
   above directions.

   To Ridgewood from the north:
   Exit the GSP at the Ridgewood/Oradell exit (I may be wrong, but I
   believe it is 165) and head toward Ridgewood. You are now on Ridgewood
   Ave. Just follow Ridgewood Ave. as above after you cross Route 17.

   Trail descriptions:
   There are approximately 6-7 miles of trails there. Most of them are
   quite smooth, with a few rough spots along the way. They're about 5'
   wide, and traffic is mostly walkers, joggers, bladers, and cyclists of
   various ages from child to senior citizen. Adult cyclists and bladers
   will generally follow courtesies and warn people in front of them when
   they are coming up behind you. The whole series of trails winds along
   side of a brook. Bugs are rampant along parts of the trails during
   summer months in the evenings. There are a few hills, but most of them
   are short, or not too steep. There are a few parking lots along the
   way where many newbie bladers can be seen tripping, stumbling, or
   moving forward when they have their balance. There are no street
   lights along the trails, as they all pass through wooded areas. The
   slalom course, for those interested, is in the Fair Lawn area by the
   tennis courts. If there is nobody there and you have your own cones
   (we tend to use cups because they're cheaper), you'll find red dots
   painted on the ground. The dots are 5' apart (measured MANY times). If
   someone is there, you won't be discouraged from trying. In fact if you
   just stand there and watch, you're very likely to be asked to try the
   cones. Just watch out for the geese and ducks in any of the parking
   lots around duck ponds (Ridgewood and Glen Rock), unless you like
   cleaning your bearings and wheels.

   From commpost!opus!camelot![e-mail]
   Date: Unknown

   I much prefer Saddle River County Park [to Brookdale Park] because it
   has a 5+ mile trail (one way!) which is great if you're looking for
   long skating runs. Most of the people there are friendly and follow
   general courtesies when passing, especially when there's a large group
   (this is cyclists, skaters, and runners alike!). There is also an area
   where we do slaloming through cones. People in the group I usually
   meet there have painted dots on the ground for the cones. They're 5'
   apart (yeah, we know that competitions use 6' as the distance). Any
   time anyone has cones set up, people are welcome to "try their luck."
   We'll never tell anyone that they can't try it. In fact, if you stand
   there and watch for a long time and you're wearing rollerblades,
   someone's going to ask you to try it.

   How to get to there:
     * The Fair Lawn area is accessed from Century Rd. Use Route 17 and
       exit at Century Rd. Head toward Glen Rock/Fair Lawn. The access
       road (Dunkerhook Rd) is a small road between Paramus Rd. and
       Saddle River Rd.
     * The Dunkerhook area (Paramus) is accessed from Paramus Rd. The
       access road (Dunkerhook Rd.) has a sign by it and is north of
       Century Rd.
     * The Ridgewood area is on Ridgewood Ave. Use Route 17 and exit at
       Ridgewood Ave. Head toward Ridgewood.
     * I can't exactly remember how to get to the Glen Rock area, but
       Saddle River Rd. comes to mind.



    Brookdale Park

   From commpost!opus!camelot![e-mail]
   Date: Unknown

   Brookdale Park is ok, but I've found that many of the cyclists there
   are a bunch of assholes (mostly it's the cycling club members). They
   might give you 3 inches clearance when they pass you while you're
   avoiding debris on the side of the road. Next time I go there, I'm
   going to bring a hockey stick with me (even though I don't play
   hockey) and swing it back and forth as I go. If the cyclists bother
   me, WHACK... >:-) Other than that, it's got a 1 mile loop with a
   rather nasty hill. The paths going through the park other than the
   main road (which has a car speed limit of 30 MPH, which of course
   nobody follows) are not that great and could use some repaving.

   How to get to there:
     * There are entries on Grove St., Watchung Ave., and Bellvue Ave.,
       all in Bloomfield. Take Route 3 to Broad St., head toward
       Bloomfield.




     _________________________________________________________________

  PENNSYLVANIA

    Philadephia

   If you have web access, the Philly skating FAQ is available at
   http://www.seas.upenn.edu/~mengwong/phl.skating.html.

   From: [e-mail] (Donald P McKay)
   Date: Unknown

   I've skated at two places west of Philadelphia I recommend to anyone.

   Philadelphia-Valley Forge Bike Trail
   The Philadelphia-Valley Forge Bike Trail is a (mostly) marked bicycle
   route from the Art Museum in Philadelphia to Valley Forge National
   Park. Some of the bike route runs along an old rail bed and has been
   paved.

   There are two paved sections I've skated. One is at the Valley Forge
   end of the trail and the other is about mid-way.

   The Valley Forge section runs from a little used section of the
   national park located on the north side of the Schuykill River (exit
   off of Rte 422 at the Trooper Rd exit; the park is to the left). The
   section from Valley Forge park to Norristown is approximately 4 miles,
   paved, flat and level. The only bothersome part is that you share the
   trail with bicyclists, walkers and joggers. This part of the trail is
   decently wide and recently paved in 1992.

   The Conshohoken section runs from the Spring Mill SEPTA station in
   Conshohoken for 3 miles east toward Philedelphia. Except for the water
   treatment plant you have to skate by, this is an enjoyable area of the
   Schuykill River area.

   Ridley Creek State Park
   Located approximately 15 miles west of Philadelphia. Warning--This is
   hilly and you must be able to brake and otherwise control yourself on
   rolling hills, 1 mile climbs and steep descents. Skating here is a
   good workout.

   In the state park, there is a paved circular path ostensibly for
   biking, blading and walking. Total distance is a little over 4 miles
   for one lap. There is a 1 mile section along Ridley Creek which is
   rolling, no steep grades up or down. The trail (no matter which way
   you happen to go) ascends from the creek bed to the main part of the
   park which is on the top of some hills. I would guess a few hundred
   feet elevation change although I've never checked a topo map. The
   steepest grade is approximately .4 miles (up or down depending). The
   trail is about 1 mile along the creek, 1 mile of gradual (compared to
   the other) grade, 1.6 miles rolling over the main part of the park,
   and the .4 mile steep grade--there are a few level parts of the run to
   help slow you down, but none at the bottom where it rejoins the creek.

   There are a few residences in the park proper so there can be an
   occasional motor vehicle.

   The fastest I've ever been on roller blades was going down the .4 mile
   grade.

    Pittsburgh

   From: [e-mail] (Randy Bryant)
   Date: Unknown

   Date: Mon, 11 Apr 1994 13:59:01 GMT

   There IS good inlining in Pittsburgh, but the combination of hills,
   traffic, and potholes makes it hard to choose good routes. Here are a
   few recommendations:

   1. Schenley Park, convenient from the Oakland area (where UPitt & CMU
   are located). There's a nice loop of 5K featuring some exciting hills
   with decent runouts. Traffic is reasonable either early AM, or midday.

   2. Zoo parking lot, in Highland Park. Popular hangout for racers,
   because it's flat, uncrowded, and smooth (contrast to general
   conditions listed above). There's a 400M oval marked out, but you need
   someone to show you where it is. There's a group that generally gets
   together at 5pm on Sundays & 6pm on Wednesdays

   3. Oakland street skating. I understand there's a group that goes out
   on Thursdays and skates stairs, parking garages, etc. Contact Rob at
   Shadyskates [phone] for more info.

   4. Various suburban locations... I know of skaters who like both North
   Park and South Park.


     _________________________________________________________________

  MARYLAND

    Baltimore

   From: [e-mail] (Marty Hall)
   Date: Unknown

    1. Loch Raven Reservoir. A 1.5 mile or so stretch of smooth pavement
       on the east side is closed to traffic weekends from 10AM to 5PM.
       Go up Dulaney Valley Rd. along west and north sides of reservoir.
       Stay along the reservoir (ie bear right) when the main road bears
       left at the restaurant. The next road is where skating starts.
       Moderately crowded with walkers, skaters, and bicyclers on nice
       days, esp after lunch. But shaded and cool.

    2. Baltimore Street Skater's Club. They meet 1st and 3rd Thursday's
       of the month in the Light Rail parking lot on Deereco Rd. This
       runs parallel to I83 between I83 and York Rd, halfway between
       Timonium and Padonia Rds. They meet 7:30-9:30 with clinics (from
       raw beginners to moderately advanced) going from 8:00-9:00. They
       recommend "joining" for about 20 bucks, but it is not required.
       Joining also gets you a T-shirt. They also have hockey some other
       night. Call Hal Ashman at Baltimore Boardsailing (666-WIND) for
       more info. 60+ people on a typical night. If you can crossover
       backwards, do a few jumps, and do basic slaloms around cones
       (backwards, 1-foot, crossing legs forwards), then you are already
       as good as all but their best instructors, but can still mess
       around with the better skaters. The more advanced groups generally
       take off into the surrounding industrial parks.

       Cancelled if there is a home Orioles game that night.

    3. Patapsco State Park. Just S of I195 off of Rt 1, near the UMBC
       campus. It costs to get in, but skaters can park in the
       residential area outside the park (go past the entrance up the
       hill), and skate in for free. It is about 1 mile into the main
       park, then there is a 2 mile stretch of river to skate along,
       ending in a hanging bridge over the river. One side of the river
       is a road (no cars allowed most of the way), the other is a bike
       path.

    4. Camden Yards stadium. Huge parking lots and smooth sidewalks south
       of stadium and around it. Obviously avoid game days. Guards will
       not let you skate between the warehouses (inside the large gates)
       but will let you skate elsewhere. On a weekday or early AM
       weekend, you can also skate over to the Inner Harbor for a nice
       cruise.

    5. Baltimore Annapolis Trail. Nice smooth bike trail running from
       Glen Burnie to Annapolis. I've never ridden it all the way into
       Annapolis, and suspect that to ride into downtown Annapolis would
       be hard, since I think you would have to cross one major bridge
       after the trail ends. Anybody know?


     _________________________________________________________________

  WASHINGTON, D.C.

   From: [e-mail] (DWach)
   Date: 14 Nov 1994 20:05:30 -0500

   The National Park Service is considering, or has already decided, to
   prohibit blading in most of Rock Creek Park, Washington, D.C. Right
   now, Rock Creek has a pretty nice 4-6 mile section for skating, some
   closed to cars, some not. The Park Service would ban skating except on
   the sections closed to cars. The person responsible for this decision
   is: William Shields, Superintendent, Rock Creek Park, Klingle Mansion,
   3545 Williamsburg Lane, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20008. If you want to
   do something to stop or reverse this decision, e-mail me at
   [e-mail].

   From: [e-mail] (George B. Clark)
   Date: Unknown

   [e-mail] (Naruhisa Takashima) writes:

     For those in the D.C. area, I have skated on Rock Creek Park which
     is real nice path for joggers and slow bicyclist, but I'm not so
     sure if it's suited for Bladers. The path is narrow, damp in many
     places, and ocassionally very steep which makes it very difficult
     for speed control, which in turn leads to bail out or wipe out.

   Most parts of Rock Creek Park's bike path are OK to skate, except for
   one real steep place that even bike riders have trouble with.

   Since the path goes through the woods, keep in mind that wet leaves on
   the pavement are very slippery to skate over.

   It's also fun to leave the bike path, and skate about the nice
   neighbor streets adjacent to it.

   From: [e-mail] (Eric Simmon)
   Date: Wed, 20 Jul 1994 17:33:51 GMT

   Rock Creek Park:
   from behind the Lincoln Memorial to Rt 28 in MD. Parts of the path is
   decent pavement, parts suck. Be prepared to share the path with bikers
   joggers and walkers. Sections of Beach Dr. are closed on the weekend,
   which provides a good surface to skate on (but each section isn't very
   long)

   Capitol Crescent Trail:
   Take K street west underneath the Whitehearst freeway, where the road
   ends, the path begins. This is a new path with wide, smooth pavement.
   It is only about 3.5 miles long right now, but will eventually go all
   the way to Bethesda.

   Downtown:
   Plenty of good skate terrain downtown, just watch out for traffic and
   bad surfaces (the mall has pavement with pebbles in it which is very
   nasty, but doable). The asphalt can be hazardous in the summer because
   it gets so hot your wheels just sink in.

   From: [e-mail] (Mitch Temoche)
   Date: 17 Oct 1994 17:14:15 GMT

   I went skating behind the Capitol once late at night. Lots of wide
   open space, it was great and security didn't say anything. Liberty
   Plaza on Pennsylvania Ave. is pretty nice and we also went up and down
   F Street NW. Rock Creek Park has an excellent bike-trail for skating.
   Recently I skated the parking lots on Research Blvd in Gaithersburg on
   Sunday when it was empty. There's a lake in Germantown, MD on Waring
   Station road that I've skated. I haven't tried Mt. Vernon bike trail
   in VA yet but, I hear it's very crowded. You also might try Avenel in
   Potomac MD there are some bike trails. Coastal highway in north of
   Ocean City MD is very good too.

    From: [e-mail] (Stephen J. Okay)
   Date: Unknown

   [...] a lot of skaters tend to gather around Freedom Plaza on 14th St.
   on Saturdays and Sundays. There are informal pick-up skates around
   downtown that meet there on Sundays at around noon and take off for
   various points in the city, usually doing a circle up past the Capitol
   and around down Independence past the monuments & museums.

   Freedom Plaza is also a hangout for the street/hardcore skaters.
   People thrash there and over at the Liberator (Simon Bolivar monument)
   on the end of 18th st. (NW side of the Capitol). There are stairs,
   rails, barriers, etc. and a big huge flat stone plaza area in both
   places.

   From: [e-mail]
   Date: 04 Nov 21:34:45 1994

   Just got back from a conference in Washington and I'll ditto the
   recommend for Freedom Plaza, on Pennsylvania Ave between 13th and 14th
   Sts. NW (that's two blocks east of the White House). I was there on
   Wednesday and Thursday evenings and saw mostly skateboarders thrashing
   the steps, but there was also a group of about 20 bladers who
   collected around 9PM on Wednesday.

   There were some other places in Washington that I also enjoyed
   skating. Note that most if not all of these are probably very crowded
   during daylight hours:
     * East side of US Capitol: There's a huge parking lot here which is
       presumably full-up when Congress is in session. It was extremely
       empty when I visited between sessions.
     * West side of US Capitol: There are some walkways leading from the
       Capitol steps to the Mall which are pretty nice, with moderate
       slopes and short step sequences. Also, right at the base of
       Capitol Hill, next to the reflecting pool, is a statue (sorry, it
       was poorly lit and I saw no identifying signs) that was great for
       practicing stair-skating. I kept thinking some Capitol security
       guys would show up and give me the boost, but even though I could
       see a couple watching me from around the top of the Capitol steps,
       it never happened.
     * West Potomac Park: Ohio Dr., the road leading from the Lincoln
       Memorial down to the Jefferson Memorial, has apparently been
       recently re-surfaced and it made for some smooth blading. I've no
       idea about the condition of the road south of the Jefferson
       Memorial.
     * George Washington Memorial Parkway: If one takes the George Mason
       Bridge across the Potomac from the Jefferson Memorial, you'll
       easily find a ped/bike trail along the river. It's in fairly good
       shape and I skated it up to the Theodore Roosevelt Bridge before
       crossing back over to the Kennedy Center. However, while it offers
       a great view of Washington, it's very poorly lit, and narrow
       enough to make conflict between bladers and bikers a major
       problem.


     _________________________________________________________________

Southeast

  KENTUCKY

    Louisville

   From: [e-mail] (SteveS1222)
   Date: 7 Sep 1994 12:07:06 -0400

   Seneca Park has a walking path that is rather narrow with many
   walkers. Cherokee Park has a 2.3 mile loop-road that is now one-way
   with the inside lane reserved for bikes, walkers, and skaters. It's
   much better than Seneca.

   Another area I've started skating around is along the river downtown.
   There is a walk path, narrow but little traffic because it's new, that
   runs for a mile or two along the river. There is a free parking lot at
   the end of 10th street and the path is right there. If you go east
   past the construction, you can skate around the Belle of Louisville
   dock also.

   I've heard that a number of people skate on the Belvadere. It is the
   open area above the construction near the Belle. I've not skated there
   yet though, so I can't give you an opinion.


     _________________________________________________________________

  TENNESSEE

    Oak Ridge

   From: [e-mail] (Michael L. Dickens)
   Date: Unknown

   I'm not sure if inlines are allowed, but there was an indoor skating
   rink on the east side of town (Oak Ridge), on the Turnpike.

   OR does have some nice BIG parking lots to cruise around; mainly the
   newly renovated Downtown (Indoor) Mall. I'd probably stick to the
   Wal-Mart side because the pavement is better (and newer). There's
   always the Kroger's, K-Mart, and Family Rec parking lots.

   I'm from OR, but I've never tried skaing around town. I think it is
   do-able, as biking was quite possibly in town. I wouldn't recommend
   blading out to the 'Labs, because the road is way too narrow (as of
   last year, at least. Maybe they finally got their act together ∧
   did something about it!--it had no shoulder, and had room for 2 cars
   and a bike). During the summer, there are lots of runners and bikers.
   And also lots of traffic.

   I'm also of the opinion that blading might not pass over too well with
   the natives (of OR at least). Skate boards were (and I think still
   are) pretty rad.


     _________________________________________________________________

  GEORGIA

    Atlanta

   From: [e-mail] (toM o. genesE)
   Date: Unknown

   Well, I'm not quite sure what your looking for in a place to skate,
   but if you are ever in Atlanta (well, it is on the East coast after
   all) be sure to go to Piedmont Park. The park itself is home to quite
   a few skaters, and no one minds their presence. Directly across the
   street from the park is Skate Escape, the rec/speed skate shop
   mentioned in the rec.skate FAQ.

   Every Monday evening, there is an introductory skate through the
   midtown area, starting at a shopping center near the park. Even though
   the trip is labeled as introductory, when the skaters (80+) gather in
   the parking lot, you can meet advanced skaters and pick up some tips,
   see some tricks, etc. If you are into speedskating, Skate Escape has a
   distance skate every Wednesday night.

   There is also a local skate club, the Atlanta Peachtree Road Rollers.
   These are the people who put on the Monday night skate, as well as
   provide introductory skate lessons.

   I can get more info on the club and these events if there is some
   interest.

   From [e-mail]
   Date: Unknown

   Great skating city; lots of hills and really scenic. Piedmont Park is
   really popular with beginners and pros alike. Go to the entrance near
   Piedmont and 12th street. There's a skate shop on that corner (Skate
   Escape). They can tell you whatever you want about other skating
   events in the city, regular weekly skates with the Peachtree Rollers,
   etc.

   Cops don't seem to mind skaters as long as you stay out of everyone's
   way (i.e. use common sense).

   The Georgia Tech Campus is another great place, especially for
   freestyle types. Lots of stairs (the ones by the student center are
   ideal for stair-riding) and ramps, great hills, and a few parking
   decks to boot.


     _________________________________________________________________

  FLORIDA

    Miami/Lauderdale

   From: [e-mail] (Mark Tabladillo)
   Date: 9 Sep 1994 17:43:23 GMT

   Ft. Lauderdale has lots of flat places to skate. The path by the ocean
   has just been changed to interlaced red brick, but it's still good for
   skating.

   South Miami, in my opinion, was a better place to skate. Theres a flat
   concrete boardwalk that runs along the beach, though it's further from
   the water than the Ft. Lauderdale boardwalk. At the southmost end of
   the beach, there are paint marks for cones. Also, at the center of the
   beach, there is building which has a square courtyard for skating,
   which has a cone in the center, and music coming from large speakers.

   Across the street, there are a number of small cafes, restaurants and
   bars. I saw better and more skaters in South Miami compared with Ft.
   Lauderdale. Both are great, and there are many places in South Florida
   for skating (BTW, roller hockey is big, and there are plans to build a
   large rink in Broward County).

   From: [e-mail] (CarlHK)
   Date: 14 Sep 1994 18:29:05 -0400

   Here in Miami Beach we've got a great boardwalk next to the beach
   (Ocean Drive between 5th and 15th streets) where on any given day
   you're bound to find tons of skaters. During the weekend we set up a
   slalom course near 5th and Ocean (the dots are painted on the ground)
   and skate at insane speeds. Sometimes a ramp is also out near 5th and
   Ocean. Monday nights about 100 skaters get together around 7:30 pm at
   Penrod's bar on 1st street and Ocean Drive for a skate around the Art
   Deco district. We end up at Penrod's afterwards where the bar gives us
   2 for 1 drinks. Good way to work out, meet folks and get buzzed. Nice,
   eh? Tuesday and Thursday nights about 150 skaters get together with
   the New River Rollers in Ft. Lauderdale for a 12 mile skate around the
   intracoastal waterway and the canals up there. Beautiful scenery and
   fantastic work out. Those skates end at the New River Saloon, for,
   yep, more drinks.

    Tampa/St. Petersburg

   From: [e-mail] (Bradley Mierau (CH))
   Date: 26 Feb 1995 16:43:59 GMT

   TotallyJon ([e-mail]) wrote:

     Tampa- Bayshore Blvd. Right on the water. Nice spot.
     Friday and Saturday nights Ybor city meet 9pm Platt St and Bayshore.
     If you want to skate St. Pete Monday and Thursday at the Thunderdome
     parking lot 8pm-10pm.
     Ft. Desoto Park probably the nicest spot around. 4 1/2 miles in a
     county park. The best around.
     The Pinellas trail 47 miles and nice too.

   Another good place is Flatwoods County Park, 5 miles west of I75 on
   Fletcher in Tampa. About 13 miles of trail... no motor vehicles...
   almost no stop signs. Very secluded, maby not a good place for female
   skaters by themselves.

    Tallahassee

   From: [e-mail] (Daryl S. Cain)
   Date: Unknown

   A great place to skate! Its got it all--hills, flatlands, gentle
   slopes, the works. Tallahassee is the capital of Florida and home to
   both Florida State University and Florida Agricultural and Mechanical
   University. Skating is a relatively new sport in Tallahassee. There
   are few places to buy skates and none where decent accessories or
   compentent help is consistently available. The law is tolerant (play
   it cool) but some private properly owners can be pains.

   The best place for flatlanders is the St. Marks Trail south of
   Tallahassee. This is a paved railroad right of way with the trailhead
   located on Highway 363 (Woodville Highway) just south of State Road
   319 (Capital Circle SE). Plenty of parking is available, however,
   space does get sparce on the weekends.

   The trail streches 16 miles from Tallahassee to St. Marks--a small
   fishing village famed for its manatee population. The pavement is high
   quality with few rough spots. Traffic is light on the weekdays, heavy
   on the weekends. Most walkers quit after 1-2 miles and skaters after
   2-3 miles. >From there on down its smooth sailing except for the
   bikers. The people are generally polite and accidents are rare. There
   is a combination bike/skate shop at the north end of the trail. They
   rent skates (Roces) and bikes for reasonable rates there.

   In the spring the trail is beautiful. Flowers and shrubs are in bloom
   and the lucky can generally find a good blackberry bush to pick.
   However, snakes also like sun themselves on the warm trail so beware
   the occassional rattler when you wander. Florida is a hot place so
   pack plenty of water. Speedsters will find that Tallahassee is quite
   hilly. Most hills are located on the East or North sides of town.
   Pavement is of very high quality, it's asphalt with a fine gravel
   base, but beware the ocassional patch of shell rock. By far the best
   hill (in my experience) is located on Morningside Drive just north of
   Highway 27 off Richview Drive on the east side. My wife has clocked my
   friend and I at 45 mph near the bottom. The hill is about 1500 yards
   long, straight, with a baby hill going up the other side to slow down
   on.

   For more radical skating work, the place to go is the Florida State
   University campus. There is no telling how the campus cops would react
   to skaters but mountain bikers generally get away with murder. The
   place is a cornicupia of stairs, ramps, hills, sidewalks, speedbumps
   and parking lots. The campus is huge and almost every type of terrain
   except for mountain switchbacks are available. The only cavat is that
   when classes let out during the semester the place becomes packed with
   pedestrians. The best times to skate there are at night, on weekends,
   and during the summer semester.

   For the freestylist, parking lots are in great abundance in
   Tallahassee. Most places are cool, but the rent-a-cops at the
   Governers Square Mall are a pain in the ass. Its a real pity to, the
   parking lot covers about ten acres and was just repaved about five
   months ago with the smoothest asphalt you've ever laid eyes on. A
   suitable alternative is the Kroger Center, located on the east side of
   town between Highway 27 and Capital Circle.

   Pick-up hockey games are held at Skate Inn East, 2563 Capital Circle
   N.E. on Sunday - 7:00 pm and Wednesday - 9:30 pm. For more information
   contact Steve Bohl at [phone]. You gotta have your own stuff.

   Be forewarned that there are few experienced skaters in Tallahassee.
   For that reason there are no real "skater" hangouts. Most people have
   a steady skate partner that they skate with but organized affiliations
   haven't developed to any real extent yet.

   There are many outdoor events in Tallahassee, such as bike-a-thons and
   the like, and they're just now warming up to the idea of skaters
   joining their ranks. Hopefully skaters will get off on the right foot
   here and become a legitimate part of the exercise/fitness community.
   So if your in town and maybe want to skate a few miles, drop me a
   line.


     _________________________________________________________________

  LOUISIANA

    New Orleans

   From: [e-mail]
   Date: Fri, 27 Jan 95 13:12:33 CST

   The most popular place to skate is Audobon Park (next to Audobon Zoo)
   in uptown New Orleans. It is a circular track about a mile long with
   bladers, bikers, and joggers. There used to be 3-hour street skates
   around the city on Thursday nights and Saturday afternoons. I am not
   sure if they are still going on. Call Park SK8 (504-891-7055) in N.O.
   for more info.I would not try skating around the French Quarter - it's
   wall to wall people and cars and the roads are atrocious.

   From: [e-mail] (Brian B. Reid)
   Date: 31 Jan 1995 06:30:19 GMT

   I took a trip to N.O. a few months ago and skated the Quarter a bit.
   If you go at a resonable hour (pre 1 p.m.) and keep your eyes open,
   it'll be an interesting skate... nice scenery, anyway...


     _________________________________________________________________

  BAHAMA ISLANDS

   From: [e-mail] (Jeff Schreiber)
   Date: 9 Nov 1994 17:50:48 -0000

   I was in the Bahamas in August for my honeymoon. The skateability of
   Nassau greatly depends on where you are thinking of. If you are
   talking about Downtown, I wouldn't recommend it (too crowded).
   Otherwise the streets might be ok (but they drive like morons! and I'm
   from Massachusetts :). Sidewalks are out, they are mostly all broken
   up, they disappear randomly, and overall, wouldn't be any fun.

   If you're thinking about the Carnival's Crystal Palace, or The
   Radisson Cable Beach (or anything on Cable Beach), I would say bring
   them. I did see one guy out on skates at the hotel. There are some
   nice cement courtyards and paths in the larger hotels on Cable Beach.

   As far as your comment about "as if that mattered" referring to the
   police. I realize you said that as a joke, but I just wanted to say
   that you should be careful. The police are pretty nice down there,
   although some are corrupt. I would not suggest pissing them off
   though. The Bahamas are nice, but if you go Downtown, I want you to
   try to picture what one of the jail cells are like. It is a foreign
   country, and I for one don't know all their laws, so I wasn't planning
   on pushing the police if they warned me. Don't forget what happened to
   that kid in Singapore!


     _________________________________________________________________

Europe

  THE NETHERLANDS

   If you have web access, JHD 'Bonzo' Keukelaar
   ([e-mail]) is assembling a Netherlands in-line skate
   FAQ at http://morra.et.tudelft.nl/~bonzo/inline/inline.html.

  UNITED KINGDOM

   If you have web access, Duncan Clarke is assembling information about
   where to skate in the UK at
   http://www.csv.warwick.ac.uk/~phulm/skate.stuff/.


     _________________________________________________________________

Australia

  AUSTRALIAN CAPITAL TERRITORY

    Canberra

   From: [e-mail] (Mark Purcell)
   Date: Unknown

   The network of bike paths is quite extensive, one can go from one end
   of the city to the other on bike paths. The paths are all >1.5m and
   made from hot mix, which makes them fast and ideal for pole work
   training for X-C.

   There is nothing like blading around the lake just as the sun is
   coming up over the mountains, with the smallest amount of mist over
   the lake, and only one or two joggers/cyclists to worry about.

   There are some problems though, before most road crossings there is a
   section of about 1.5-2 m of concrete bumps, which play like hell on
   the legs. It is possible to jump these but not the easiest.

  QUEENSLAND

    Brisbane

   From: [e-mail] (Michael Cheng)
   Date: 24 Oct 1994 10:25:56 GMT

   The Riverside bike path along Coronation drive: heads from the city to
   Toowong. It's a nice flat stretch, not really wide, but nice scenery.

   The Skate Ramp just off Hale St (almost next to Lang Park). The only
   times I've ever been there, its been packed out with truly excellent
   skaters (making me feel rather inadequate). Some of the stuff is just
   awesome. Once you get here, ask anyone, and I'm sure they'll be able
   to suggest more spots.

   I, myself, skate at the University of Queensland Campus. Rent a Cop
   security guards are continually on your case though.

  VICTORIA

    Melbourne

   From: [e-mail] (Krensen)
   Date: 30 Jun 94 06:53:20 GMT

   There's a lot of great skating spots 'round here, but I'll tell of a
   cupla faves:

    1. The Swanston street walk thing.. It's the main street of Melbourne
       and it's about the smoothest in town... like marble! At one end is
       the Museum, at the other a train station and there's a slight
       downhill gradient between the two... The fun bit is getting in
       behind the trams and getting sucked along by the draft... it's
       also fairly good fun since skating in the CBD is illegal between
       7am and 10pm... :-)
    2. The trek between the Station and St. Kilda beach... Heaps of
       smooth road and footpath, slightly downhill, lots of businesses
       with steps/ramps/curbs at the front... St Kilda beach has a great
       track which goes for miles and is full of inline people... it's
       got a great vibe and heaps of grass to fall over on for learning
       those new tricks... Also lots of beginner skaters to crash into!




     _________________________________________________________________



   -rec.skate FAQs maintained by Tony Chen ([e-mail])

   -"Where to Skate (Outdoors)" edited by Robert Schmunk
   ([e-mail])

     _________________________________________________________________

   *This logo is Copyright - 1994 by Anthony D. Chen. Permission is
   granted to use this logo in World Wide Web HTML files so long as this
   copyright notice is included as an HTML comment alongside the
   invokation (IMG SRC or HREF or otherwise) of the logo.

   The logo may not be sold for profit, nor incorporated in commercial
   documents or merchandise without prior written permission of the
   copyright holder.


     _________________________________________________________________

   TOC #1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #6 #7 #8 #9 #10 #11
Posted-By: auto-faq 3.1.1.2
Archive-name: rec-skate-faq/part9


   Rec.skate Frequently Asked Questions: Part 9
     _________________________________________________________________

   Skating Clubs and Organizations *

            REC.SKATE FAQ - PART 9: SKATING CLUBS AND ORGANIZATIONS

   (last changed February 23, 1995)

   This section of the FAQ is a list of skating organizations and clubs,
   for all types of skating (although you may see an emphasis on in-line
   clubs). If you don't see your local club in here, please send in as
   much info about it as you can to me. Thanks.




     _________________________________________________________________

  TABLE OF CONTENTS
     * General Notes
     * Clubs/Organizations on the Web
     * United States
          + California
          + Florida
          + Georgia
          + Illinois
          + Massachusetts
          + Missouri
          + New York
          + North Carolina
          + Pennsylvania
     * Other Countries
          + Ontario
               o Ottawa
               o Toronto
               o London
          + Sydney, Australia


     _________________________________________________________________

General Notes

   A listing of in-line skating organizations across the United States
   regularly appears in Inline magazine, published bi-monthly.

   From [e-mail]
   Date: Fri Mar 4 00:21:55 1994

   You can get the ice skating info on Clubs from the US Figure Skating
   Assn 20 First St. Colorado Springs, CO 80906. I'm not to sure what
   they charge for the booklet or if they sell it to a non-USFSA member.
   If not, find an arena in your area and see if you can xerox somone's
   book. Any rink has a directory of rinks thruough the ISIA - Ice
   Skating Inst. of Amer. . . . ice hockey orgs from USA Hockey, 2997
   Broadmoor Valley rd, Colorado Springs CO 80906. Roller skating infor
   US Amateur Conf. of roller Skating, P.O. Box 6579, Lincoln, NE 68506.

   From [e-mail]
   Date: Sat Mar 5 16:17:18 1994

   Information on all speed skating clubs in Canada can be found by
   contacting:
   Canadian Amateur Speed Skating Association
   1600 James Naismith Drive
   Gloucester, ON K1B 5N4
   Canada

   fone: [phone]
   fax: [phone]


     _________________________________________________________________

Organizations on the Web

     * blades@uiuc may be accessed at
       http://www.cen.uiuc.edu/~ar9079/blades.html
     * You can also check out InLine USA's list of clubs at
       http://www.terminus.com/inline/org.htm.


     _________________________________________________________________

United States

  CALIFORNIA

   From: [e-mail] (George Robbins)
   Date: Sat, 22 Oct 1994 18:30:18 GMT

   [e-mail] (Curtis Ling) writes:

     [...] I was reading the FAQ and saw that there was a "Friday night
     fun skate... 15 mile tour of the city" starting at 8PM, at the Ferry
     building along the embarcadero (wherever that is). I was wondering
     if that would still be going on in November, if it was a regular
     thing, and if not, if there were other such regular events.

   If you look at SF, it sits on the end of thumb-shaped penninsula. The
   Embarcadero is the water-front street through the old dock area, kind
   of crescent shaped. The Ferries building is the old Ferry terminal, I
   think it's mostly offices and a Restaurant now. I seem to recall it's
   close to where Market St. would intersect the Embarcadero if there
   wasn't a zone of confusion in between. Look for the Bay Bridge and you
   won't be too far off. Anyone in the city should be able to point you
   in the right direction.

   Note that this is much closer to the main business district than the
   to Fishermans Wharf/Pier 39/Presideo/Cannery tourist-trap "end" of the
   Embarcadero. At that end there's a bit of a park and litle beach where
   there's also supposed to be some skating activity during the day. The
   Embarcadero is dead flat, and there are lots of not-too hilly routes
   around the city - the really nasty hillsare when you try to go up and
   over the the penninsula instead of around the periphery. (kind of like
   HK)

   Take your skates in any case, skating or biking is a very good way to
   see the city - it's big enough that walking everywhere is a real pain,
   and cars aren't particularly convenient. Just carry some shoes in a
   backpack so that you can take a bus/trolly bus/cable car, or if you
   decide you want to go up or down one of the really steep streets.

   From: [e-mail] (L. Floyd)
   Date: Sun, 23 Oct 1994 19:20:36 GMT

   [Re:] San Francisco Friday Night Skate (Midnight Rollers)

   As far as I know, the Friday night skate goes on every Friday of the
   year, weather permitting. George gave good directions to the start
   point. Look for the Ferry Building clock tower at the east end of
   Market Street. There are parking spaces in the extra-wide median on
   the Embarcadero right there at the Ferry Building. To play it safe,
   pay the $3.00 (self-pay box) - I got a "warning" many weeks ago.
   People start to gather in the parking lot I just mentioned at around
   8:00 pm or earlier. The skate starts at 8:30. There are plenty of
   folks who do the skate. Last Friday the count was over 325 skaters:
   young, old, women, men, kids, in-line, quad, racing, newbies. Wear
   your helmet and bring along one of those blinky lights things so you
   won't get smushed by a car or bus.

   From: [e-mail] (Kevin Carothers)
   Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 22:08:28 GMT

   Lake Balboa Skate & Kite has a beginner/intermediate class every
   saturday & sunday. Cost is $5.00 for skates & pads, and 2.5 hours of
   beginning/intermediate instruction by *-damn-* good street skaturs...
   Most informative 5 bucks *I* ever spent. Call for details at (818)
   782-1234. They give you a free lesson (or 2 or 3... depending on how
   nice you are :) if you buy your skates there.

   They also have a skating club, but I don't think it meets formally
   anymore.


     _________________________________________________________________

  FLORIDA

   From: [e-mail] (Kenneth N. Woliner)

   Name: Bay Bladers Skate Club of Tampa
   City: Tampa, FL (and sometimes Brandon, St. Petersburg, and
   Clearwater)
   president: Ken Woline
   phone: [phone]
   e-mail: [e-mail]
   snail: 14501 Raven Brook #412, Tampa, FL 3361
   Skate times: Every Wednedsay, Meet at 7:30 pm in Goodfella's parking
   lot, skate from 8-9, socialize from 9-?

   Description: The Bay Bladers are a new skate club composed of people
   who want to skate socially and safely with others of similar interst.
   We currently skate every Wednesday night in Tampa and will be adding
   other locations soon. In addition to providing water at a rest stop,
   we try to arrange for discounts on race registrations and skating
   equipment. Directions: From Tampa: Take I-275 North to Exit 35,
   Fletcher Ave. Proceed East to Bruce B. Downs (a.k.a. 30th St.). Turn
   left and go north 2 lights to Amberly. Turn right and Goodfella's is
   on the right. Alternatively, take I-75 to Fletcher exit and go West to
   Bruce B. Downs. Turn right and proceed 2 lights to Amberly.

   From: [e-mail] (Lleep) Subject: Sarasota/Bradenton, FL Skate Club


   Sarasota and Bradenton Skaters, come skate with us every weekend.
   Roller Coasters Inline Skating Club may seem like a lame name, but
   it's not a lame group. Whether you're a beginner, novice, aggressive
   or recreational skater, this group of skaters has fun. Some work on
   some serious aggressive skating to the point of looking at building
   vert ramps and rails. Others skate with the group to increase skills,
   meet other skaters (many adult singles), have fun, exercise and to
   socialize. We even have some hockey skaters in our group who are
   involved in some great local leagues. We skate a different area every
   weekend (some night skates), as well as host trips to Tampa and St.
   Pete. We are sponsered by Flamingo Coast (RollerBlade Sales and
   Rentals) on St. Armands Circle, who gives us discounts on equipment.
   We have our own instructor who hosts lessons for beginners and novices
   every two weeks as well as private lessons weekly.

   Call Flamingo Coast at [phone] or the Club Host, Boon Brown at
   [phone], or E-mail Boon at [e-mail]


     _________________________________________________________________

  GEORGIA

   From: [e-mail] (Paul Lomangino)

    1. Name: Atlanta Peachtree RoadRollers
    2. Location: Atlanta, GA
    3. Phone # of primary contact: (if available) Henry Zuver (Pres. of
       IISA)
    4. Type of club: STREET
       Type of skate: Mostly In-Line
    5. Location description: Meet in Rio parking lot - skate through
       various neighborhoods, downtown Atlanta
       Rio - Intersection of North Ave. and Piedmont in Atlanta
       Mondays: All levels skate, Wednesdays: Intermeidate-Expert
       Sundays: 32 mile endurance skate
    6. Requirements: Need own Equipment, Helmets Recommended
    7. Fees: none ($5/yr "official" membership
    8. General skill level of the club: Mixed
    9. Any other comments: Lotsa fun! We host the Athens-to-Atlanta
       Marathon skate




     _________________________________________________________________

  ILLINOIS

   From [e-mail]
   Date: Tue, 2 Aug 1994 21:25:26 -0500 (CDT)

    1. Name: blades@uiuc
    2. Location: Champaign-Urbana IL
    3. Phone # of Primary contact: Amy Ryan, 217 328 7060, and/or e-mail
       address: [e-mail]
    4. Type of club: Street Skating, Hockey, Distance, and Casual Skating
       Type of skate: We play hockey a couple of times a week. Most every
       night, we can be seen playing tag on the quad. Some people go fast
       some go slow. We are a diverse group of skaters.
    5. Location description: We can be found at Assembly Hall playing
       hockey, the main quad playing tag. Or on the internet in our
       mailing list [e-mail] (finger [e-mail] for more
       information)
    6. Requirements: Safety is strongly encouraged, however we do not
       _require_ any protection. You must use your brain and you must
       have fun.
    7. Fees: We're free.. we pay enough money for tuition, save your fees
       to buy better skates
    8. General Skill Level of the club: We have all skill levels.. our
       goal is to educate people to become better skaters, while we work
       on improving our skills. We combine all levels of skating,
       resulting in fun for everybody.
    9. Any other comments: finger [e-mail] for more information



   Also check out the web server at
   http://www.cen.uiuc.edu/~ar9079/blades.html.


     _________________________________________________________________

  MASSACHUSETTS

   From [e-mail] Wed Mar 2 16:13:30 1994
   Date: Wed, 02 Mar 1994 16:13:18 -0500

   There is a skating club in Boston called the 'In-line Club of Boston'.

   The hotline # is 932-5457 ( WE-B-KIKS ).

   In-line Club of Boston
   Kendall Sq.
   P.O. box 1195
   Cambridge, MA 02142-0009

   The ICB offers a newsletter, T-shirt, hotline, clinics, night skates,
   races, discounts, and more.

   From [e-mail]
   Date: Wed Mar 2 16:15:42 1994

   This information should replace the earlier information on night
   skates. What used to be the Thursday night skate is now the Monday
   night skate.

   There are 3 night skates in Boston that happen on a regular basis.
   These skates are seasonal. They generally start in early May and run
   as long as the weather permits. Last year the Monday and Wednesday
   skates ran until late November!

   Monday, Extreme, 8:30pm
   This is a free unsponsored & unorganized event. Skate at your own
   risk! Meet at the 'frog pond' in the Boston Common. It is the large
   empty cement pool on the Park St. Station side of the Common.

   Tuesday, Beginner, 8:30pm
   Meet at the Hatch Shell on the Charles River. Your $10 covers 3 glow
   sticks & some soft drinks. $5 each time thereafter. This is a
   leisurely skate - no tricks or racing or jumping or stairs, etc...
   unless you individually want to ;-> This skate is sponsored by John
   Gilmore.

   Wednesday, All levels welcome, 8:30pm
   This is the In-line Club of Boston night skate. Meet at the Trinity
   Church in Copley Square. All protective gear recommended. Call
   617-932-5457 ( WE-B-KIKS ) for more info.

   From: [e-mail] (Michael L. Dickens)

   There are 2 Night Skates in Boston that happen on a regular basis:

   one is on Tuesday night, meet at the Hatch Shell on the Charles River;
   leaves around 8:30 pm (or as soon as it's reasonably dark). Your $10
   covers 3 glow sticks & some soft drinks. $5 each time thereafter. This
   is a leisurely skate - no tricks or racing or jumping or stairs,
   etc... unless you individually want to ;-> This skate is sponsored by
   John Gilmore, who is somehow related to RollerBlade.

   the other is Thursday night, meet at the Trinity Church in Copley
   Square; leaves around 8:30 pm (or as soon as the leaders arrive & want
   to go). Free to all, but this one is fast-paced. You can do jumps,
   stairs, natural ramps, bricks, and any number of these combined. You
   can also choose to go around & just watch; but you'll have to skate
   fast to keep up. Frequent stops to let the leaders show off. If you
   plan to participate, wear full protective padding, including large
   knee pads, and wrist guards at a minimum. A helmet is recommended
   (just in case....). The powers that lead give a short lecture on safe,
   polite, respectful skating at the first stop. This skate is TOTALLY
   unsponsored - skate free at your own risk.


     _________________________________________________________________

  MISSOURI"

   From: The Squatch ([e-mail]) I saw
   the list of groups on the FAQ, and I thought i'd let you know about
   NMSU Bulldog Roller Hockey. We play as a club twice a week (Tues 3-5,
   Fri 3-6), and also operate a team for intercollegiate play (our first
   games in club history are Feb 25 and 26 in Maryville, Missouri,
   against Northwest Missouri State's club). This is our first semester
   of true organized activity. Our club dues for this semester were $5,
   plus for tryouts, we had a 'tryout fee' of $5, so that we could pay
   for rink time for our games. (BTW, NMSU is located in Kirksville,
   Missouri.) Our intercollegate games, as well as a session on Tuesday
   nights (9-11 or 9-12, depending), are in Macon, Missouri, 30 miles
   south of Kirksville, at Don's Skate Center, on Hwy 63.

   I am the current club president, and my number is [phone] (on
   campus number, that is).

   Kevin Joseph "The Squatch" Student, Northeast Missouri State Univ
   President, NMSU Bulldog Roller Hockey
     _________________________________________________________________

  NEW YORK

   From [e-mail] (R.B. Schmunk)
   Date: Mon, 07 Nov 1994 17:52:11

   New York Road Skaters Association (NYRSA),
   328 East 94th St., New York, NY 10128;
   212-369-6285:

   An in-line-dominated organization and perhaps the most well-known of
   city skating groups because of their management of several events in
   Central Park and elsewhere during "skating season". Dues are $25 /
   year, and an extra $8 gets you a NYRSA T-shirt. The membership card
   entitles you to a 10% discount at Blades, a local chain of skate
   shops, and $5 or $10 off the entry fee for races and many other
   NYRSA-sponsored events. A small application blank can be found on the
   Central Park skate guide available at Blades, the most prominent of
   which is Blades West, at 120 West 72nd St., just off Columbus Ave.


     _________________________________________________________________

  NORTH CAROLINA
    1. Club Name: Triangle Skating Club
    2. Location: Research Triangle Park NC
    3. Charter: Recreation/competitive club, speed, marathon, distance,
       freestyle, tricks, distance, fun. Trips and social activities.
    4. Contact: Skating Connection 24 hour recorded information (919)
       460-0964
    5. Contact Name: Matt Cohen [e-mail] OR
       [e-mail]
    6. Schedule: Check the skating connection
    7. Roads: Some of the best in the State. Skater friendly city.
    8. Meeting Place: Park & Ride next to the Governor's Inn. Exit 280
       off I-40. Parking lot is across from NCNB.
    9. Skill level: Mostly intermediate level skates. Beginner clinics
       every so often.



   From: [e-mail] (Dailene Wilson)

    1. Name: Charlotte Blade Rollerz
    2. Location: Charlotte NC
    3. Phone # of primary contact: Dailene and Jack Wilson [phone]
       and/or e-mail address: [e-mail] (Dailene Wilson)
    4. Type of club: Speed skating, distance skating, some street
       Type of skate: mostly speed and distance (12-25 miles per skate),
       very hilly- beautiful neighborhoods. Occasional downtown skate-
       stair bashing, rail sliding, etc.
    5. Location description:
       Central YMCA, East Morehead
       Sundays @ 6pm, Tues and Thurs @ 6:30pm, Saturdays @ 11am
       Beginner skates:
       Wednesdays 5-8pm, Alpine Ski Center ($5 rental, 332-2824)
       Thursdays 5:30, Tennis & Ski (377-3175)
    6. Requirements: Helmets and wristguards required on all skates
    7. Fees: $10 club membership (that means you get a newsletter 6 times
       a year- you can skate with us for free!)
    8. General skill level of the club: Mostly intermediate to advanced
       skaters. Beginner sessions available through the local skate shops
       (see above).
    9. Any other comments: We ask that all skaters that join us on
       Saturday, Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday be proficient in stopping
       and controlling their speed as the terrain in Charlotte is very
       hilly!




     _________________________________________________________________

  PENNSYLVANIA

   From [e-mail]
   Date: Thu Mar 10 22:32:20 1994

    1. Pittsburgh Inline Skating Club (PISC)
    2. Mailing Address:
       2811 Brentwood Ave.
       (First Floor, Rear)
       Pittsburgh, PA 15227
       Club president: Amy Krut [phone]
    3. Email contact: [e-mail]
    4. Type of club: All aspects of inline skating
    5. Various activities in Pittsburgh area
    6. All club skates require a helmet
    7. Varies by activity
    8. All skill levels



   From [e-mail]
   Date: Thu Mar 10 22:38:24 1994

    1. Greater Pittsburgh Unified Speedskating Club
    2. ...
    3. Primary Contacts:
       Bob Halden [phone]
       Wade Smith [phone]
    4. Short Track (ice) speedskating
    5. Meet at Golden Mile Ice Arena, Monroeville, PA
    6. Must wear helmet.
    7. Fees: Currently $10/session, but varies with club finances
    8. Skill level: All levels
    9. Other comments: Programs for children, adults, and special
       olympians



   From: [e-mail] (Jimfed)
   Date: 25 Jul 1994 18:56:04 -0400

   I am a member of the P.I.S.C., and for those of you who are
   interested, we have 2 Pittsburgh skates a week. Tuesday we meet at the
   Giant Eagle's on the South Side at 7:30, and Thursday we meet at the
   fountain in front of the Frick Fine Arts building in Oakland. We have
   been averaging 10 - 15 people on these skates, but, would love to have
   more show up.

   Tuesday night's skate is a long one, averaging between 10 and 15
   miles, and Thursday's is shorter with more tricks and stuff.

   I also have a practice skate at Gateway Senior High school for
   beginners and practicing. This meets Wednesday night at the tennis
   courts at 6:30.


     _________________________________________________________________

Other Countries

  ONTARIO

   From [e-mail]
   Date: Sat Mar 5 16:17:18 1994

    1. Name: Ottawa Pacer's Speed Skating Club
    2. Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
    3. Phone # of primary contact: Greg Franks [phone]
       and/or e-mail address of contacts: [e-mail]
    4. Type of club: Speed Skating (Short & Long track), Adult and
       Children.
       Type of skate: Short and Long Track speed skating
    5. Location description: Indoor: Dulude Arena, Ottawa, ON.
       Outdoor: Brewer Park (Natural Ice oval)
       Outdoor: Rideau Canal (winter obviously - 7km continuous ice)
    6. Requirements: Must provide helmets and other saftey equipment.
       Rental skates available.
    7. Fees: Yes -- depends on membership catagory.
    8. General skill level of the club: All. We have three time slots:
       Children learning to skate, Competitive Skaters, and Adult
       recreational.




     _________________________________________________________________

   Toronto, ON Hi there, I was just on the re. skate newsgroup and I read
   your article regarding clubs and organizations. I am a member on the
   Toronto In-Line Skating Club, and I write to you from the Toronto, ON
   area.
    1. Club name: Toronto Inline Skating Club (TISC)
    2. Club President: Wayne Burret
    3. Location: Toronto, Ontario
    4. Telephone Numbers:
          + President: 905 272 1774
          + Club Inquiries: 905 822 2100
          + e-mail contact: [e-mail]
    5. Mission Statement: To further the sport of Inline skating. To
       enjoy and participate in the fastest growing sport ever!



   I've been a member for two years, and they have been very productive
   ones. The coaches are some of the finest speed skaters in Canada, two
   of whom were on the Canadian World Team this year.

   From: [e-mail] (Keith O. Gare) The Forest City Rollers
   In-Line Skate Club

   Last fall when the club started meeting, we met on Wendesday nights
   and went for a casual, recreational skate through the city of London,
   Ontario Canada. The distance we covered was 8-10k.

   The atmosphere is very social, with safety and fun being most
   important! We only skated as fast as the slowest person in the group.
   Obeyed ALL traffic regulations(as we covered sidewalk, street and
   trail) and had a great time.

   We are offical and listed in INLINE magazine. The group is led by two
   IISA certified instructors, myself and my SO. Last year we averaged
   8-10 people weekly and hope for more this year.

   Contact: Keith O. Gare, [e-mail]


     _________________________________________________________________

  SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA

   From Brendan Bouffler ([e-mail])

   "The Sydney City Skate is a regular weekly skate (in-line) organised
   by the people at Bondi Boards & Blades. We meet outside the McDonalds
   at Circular Quay _every_ Wednesday night at 7:00pm. The skate
   generally lasts for about two hours covering around 20-25 Km's (12-15
   mi). We go over the Harbour Bridge for a speed run, and then skate
   around town along a varying route that regularly covers places like
   the Opera House, Darling Harbour, Botanic Gardens, Mrs Macquarie's
   Chair, Sydney Uni, Kings Cross and other notable spots.

   Information can be got from:

   Bondi Boards & Blades
   230 Oxford Street,
   Bondi Junction
   Ph. + 61 2 369 2212

   or, of course, via email to me at [e-mail]"

   From: [e-mail] (MR KIM MOSER)
   Date: Thu, 09 Feb 1995 01:25:52 EST

   Inline Skate Clubs, Night Skates, and Skate Parks in Australia
   (Queensland, New South Wales, Victoria, and South Australia)

   SKATE CLUBS:

   ISANSW (In-Line Skating Association of New South Wales, Inc.)
   For info, write:

    John Williams or David Ting
    c/o ISANSW
    P.O. Box 305
    Manly, NSW 2095
    Australia

   NIGHT SKATES:

   Brisbane (Queensland):
   Contact: Skate Arena: 369-1061 (24 hr recording), 367-3284 (voice)

   Night skate: Sunday, 4-6pm: Regatta (Coronation Drive); adults

   Friday, 11-12pm: GPO (Post Office on Queen & Edward St.); skaters of
   all ages

   Sydney (New South Wales)
   Contact: Manly Blades: 976-3833

   Night skate: Wednesdays, meet either at the shop (Manly Blades, in
   Manly) at 7pm, or at the Palace Gates in front of the Conservatorium
   on Macquarie Street in the city at 8pm; call Manly blades during the
   day to find out which location/time to meet.

   Melbourne (Victoria):
   Contact: Sports Mix: 663-5166 (269 Lonsdale Street, near Museum
   Station, next to Myer)

   Night skate: Wednesdays, 6pm, meet in front of store; also at 9pm,
   meet at the Arts Center

   Adelaide (South Australia):
   Contact: The Skate Pit (232-2433) or Coastal Creatures (295-2266)

   Night skate: Friday, 9pm, meet at steps by Grenfell Center, on the
   west side of the street (across the street from the Grenfell mall)

   SKATE PARKS:

   Brisbane:
   In Petrie Terrace, across the street from Lang Park (corner of Hale
   and Caxton)

   Canberra:
   In Belconnen, a block or two east of where Eastern Valley Way hits
   Lake Ginninderra.


     _________________________________________________________________

   *This image is Copyrighted - 1994 by Anthony D. Chen. Permission is
   granted to use this logo in World Wide Web HTML files so long as this
   copyright notice is included as either an HTML comment alongside the
   invokation (IMG SRC or HREF or otherwise) of the logo, or in the
   visible text.

   The image may not be sold for profit, nor incorporated in commercial
   documents or merchandise without prior written permission of the
   copyright holder.


     _________________________________________________________________

   TOC #1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #6 #7 #8 #9 #10 #11 PICS
Posted-By: auto-faq 3.1.1.2
Archive-name: rec-skate-faq/part10


   Rec.skate Frequently Asked Questions: Part 10
     _________________________________________________________________

   Tricks section 1 *

Inline tricks and stunts, Section 1


     _________________________________________________________________

   Here are Steve's cool grind pics
   Here are some cool half-pipe pics from ftp.sunet.se
   Jumping Tutorial
   Backwards stair-riding Tutorial
     _________________________________________________________________

Skating Tricks and Moves Section 1

   (last changed Feb 14, 1994)

Table of Contents

     * Stair riding
     * Curb grinds and wall stalls
     * Skitching (skate-hitching)

STAIR RIDING

   From: [e-mail] (Jim Aites) I'm pretty comfortable
   riding stairs (frontwards and backwards), but discovered something
   which in hindsight should have been obvious, and might be worth
   mentioning to those who are looking for stairs to ride. Simply put,
   there are stairs worth riding and the are stairs that you'd be nuts to
   do anything but jump down/over. Dangerous stairs: Ride-able stairs:
   Fun/easy stairs: |__ |____ |______ | | | |__ |____ |______ | | | |__
   |____ |______ Too obvious you say? Yeah, me too. I durn near nailed
   myself going backwards down a dangerous set the other day. I guess I
   figured that stairs were stairs. Wrong thinking is punishable...via
   PAIN! From: [e-mail] (Robert John Butera) Tonight I
   finally did my first competent stair bashing, doing 6-8 stairs at the
   Party-on-the-Plaza in downtown Houston. I thought I'd share some of
   what I learned with others, since this thread comes up a lot. * I was
   surprised how EASY is was - a lot of it is overcoming the confidence
   factor and being relaxed. * It really helps to watch someone. I
   decided to try it when I saw someone that I KNEW was a much less
   experienced skater than me, and decided, dammit I'm going to tackle
   this thing. * The BIGGEST tip I have for getting started is to
   constantly remind yourself to keep one foot in fron tof the other. The
   ride is a lot smoother. After about an hour of doing it, I could get
   myself to do it with my skates almost side-by-side, but your much more
   likely to lose your balance. * At first I kept on tripping on the
   bottom stair or two (yet miraculously I never fell!). The guy who
   showed me how to do it noticed that as I progressed down the stairs,
   my rear foot was moving forward and becoming more "side-by-side" with
   my front foot (see the previous note). The trick was to relax yet
   concentrate on foot placement. * When I got back to campus, I tried
   skateing backward down some wimpy 2-4 stair spread out stairs. The
   people here are right: I think backwards stair crashing might actually
   be easier. I intend to go downtown tomorrow night and try the
   backwards thing on some larger stairs. Overall, a great night for
   skating. I also found the "ideal parking deck" with those two
   important prerequisites: no visible security and a working elevator
   (its really steep, but has 6-7 levels). Such parking decks are
   becoming few and far between around here as more skaters start
   "invading" them, making the security dudes a lot more testy ... Thanks
   for everyone's responses on the axle kits. Those who have made
   comparisons seem to prefer the one by Lazzy Legs. -- From:
   @sedona.intel.com (Kenneth Creta) In article , [e-mail]
   (Andrew) writes: > I've been skating for about 3 month now, but still
   can't skate down- > stairs. I tried to go up the stairs and it works
   well, very fast! I saw people > going upstairs and did not find it
   difficult at all. But looking down from the > top of even 7 step stair
   scares the shit out of me. Try a smaller set first. A wouldn't advise
   going straight to 7 stairs. >I tried going down from the > fourth step
   of a 15 step stair, but I ended up running downstairs, not skating.
   This will never work. You need some speed to prevent your skates from
   catching on them. My friend and I (we do stairs all the time) have
   recently started hit the stairs at a snail's pace. Not as easy when
   going slow. > Do you have to keep the blades horisontally, when you go
   down, or at a 45 angle? Although I don;t really think about it, I
   guess I'd have to say horizontal. > It seems that if you keep the
   skates at an anlge, you end up running downstairs,but if you keep them
   horisontally, the brake would definitely get in the way on > almost
   any stairs, except very flat ones. Or you have to approach the stair
   at > an angle, to make the path longer? A good way to start. Stairs
   are much easier at an angle. The easier way is if your front foot is
   opposite the angle your going. In other words, if your back foot is
   your right (mine is) try angling right to left. If you go slow, your
   brake will definitely be a concern. I don't bother with one anyway.
   What could make someone want to stop anyway :) Ken From:
   [e-mail] (Matt Hicks) I saw some street freestyle on
   Prime Sports Network (I think it was) a few weeks ago and I noticed
   that the guys doing stairs seemed to be just dragging the toe wheels
   of their trailing foot (feet?). All their weight was on the leading
   foot and the trailing foot seemed to be just a rudder or for balance
   only. Anyone had any experience with this technique? See the worst
   ASCII drawing in the world below if this is not clear. / / / / \ / / \
   O|---------- /\ \ | | / | | O| ----------/ | | ______ O| / | | | |__|
   |----| |_O_______ | | | | \__ |________ | \ | |________| |___@ @ @ @_
   | | -- From: [e-mail] (Kenneth Creta) Hi, I've been
   stair bashing for a LONG time now. However, I've always wondered about
   my form and whether I was doing it right because it has always seemed
   that my ride was ALOT rougher and bumpier than others I've watched.
   Last night proved that something was wrong. My friend and I were
   taking our favorite set of stairs REALLY SLOW. This isn't so easy.
   Howver, while my friend was able to do it OK, I found that my back
   (right) foot kept on catching on the steps. My friend thinks I put too
   much weight on the back foot and I think he might be be right because
   when I listen, he sounds like CHUNK-KA CHUNK-KA where I sound like
   CHUNK CHUNK. You know what I mean. Any of you find yourself in a
   similar situation? Ken -- From: [e-mail] (Stephen J.
   Okay) In article [e-mail] (Lawrence Chr-Jr Liu)
   writes: >Jeff writes: > >Out of curiosity, do most skaters think 180's
   or 360's off stairs are easier? >I'm trying to learn 360's, but I
   can't quite get the hang of it -- any >suggestions? (These 360's are
   on flat ground for now, I don't have the full >no fear mentality --
   yet ;) ) I haven't quite gotten there either yet, so I'm going to say
   180s :) My typical approach to 180's: Approach the stairs at a
   moderate speed and when I reach the first one, jump up like I was
   going to do a curb jump. I usually land on the 3rd or 4th step and
   stop there quite solidly and firmly. As soon as I'm sure of my
   purchase on that step(about a second or so), I push back with my front
   wheels and turn around to land facing forward. is it much of a
   transition to make this a 270? I think the reason I haven't done a 360
   yet is that I'm not that comfortable landing backwards. Although I am
   getting better with the heel-to-heels, so I do feel more comfortablke
   landing and then spinning or doing wide circles. (Thats the best I can
   manage with this so far...but they are getting WIDER! :) ) ObTrick:
   Found another cool office over the weekend. TThis one not only has a
   deep curb ramp, but also a long cement one running up to the front
   door. I was catching some major air off this, almost enough to start
   doing tricks in midair.. For those in the area,this is the Dept. of
   the Interior building over in Sir Isaac Newton Square in
   Reston...they've got some pretty cool stairs too.. -- From:
   [e-mail] (Kenneth Creta) In article ,
   [e-mail] (Douglas J. Narby) writes: > Stairs (this
   one not explained too well; and I haven't had the Testes to > try it
   without some clues). Remember to bend you knees and put more weight on
   the back foot than the front. I put my left foot 1/2 a foot length
   ahead of my right (my right leg is the stronger of the two) and bend
   my knees to absorb much of the impact. When people get scared, they
   straighten up which winds up in a wreck. Also, while going down, try
   to be light on your feet. I know that sounds funny but picture it and
   "float" over the stairs. Use the force, Luke :) If you try backwards,
   put your stronger leg forward (uphill) and put your (most of but not
   all) weight on your toes. Like forward, put most of the weight on your
   stronger leg. Too much weight on your heels can result in catching the
   foot throwing you on your back. We have two flights of 6 steps with
   about 5 feet of flat in between and I like to hit the first going
   forward and then switching backwards for the next flight. Or going
   down the first set, and jumping into a 180 over the second and so on.
   > My best trick so far is jumping a flight of four stairs. Now I am
   trying > to learn to do crossovers whilst skating backward. I think
   backwards cross-overs is one of the best techniques that develops
   overall skating ability. It really forces you to balance and takes
   quite a bit of practice before you are really comfortable. BE SURE TO
   PRACTICE BOTH LEFT AND RIGHT EQUALLY. I see alot of people who can go
   one way but not the other. New Tricks: Work on 360 jumps off the
   ground (forward and backward). Once you have those down, hit a jump
   and do it (again, forwards and backwards). Try a "Dutchman". Jump off
   a ramp, grab both feet behind your back while in the air and land (on
   your feet :) -- From: [e-mail] (DAve.) Subject: Re:
   Stair/Wall Jumps.. In article , [e-mail] (Will Leland) writes:
   > RE: how to ride down stairs > SPEED! just get going a good clip, put
   your weaker foot in front of > the other for more stability, and ride
   down with most of your weight > on the back skate. > I ran into an
   upper limit on stairs though. When I got up to 10 steps > I ran out of
   speed (and balance) and did a major face plant. Do those > hockey
   helmets come with face cages :) Speed is nice - balance is better! :-)
   Once again, though, you need to be able to skate more or less one foot
   in front of the other. I like to push my front foot out, almost
   straight so that if it gets caught on a step it 'springs' back in
   front really quickly. Then place the trailing knee really close and
   almost behind the leading one. This forces one to bend that trailing
   leg, which takes up a lot of the bumpiness. The more relaxed the back
   leg is, the smoother the ride goes. I have managed 15 consecutive
   steps this way. The only reason that that is the limit, is that I have
   not found more than 15 consecutive steps. :-) It is real easy to lose
   your nerve after 12 or so. As soon as you stiffen or straghten up the
   back leg, it is all over :-\ Anyways, this is *MY* method (MHOs only)
   - it is certainly not everyones. I think one just needs to find what
   is most comfortable for oneself. -- From: [e-mail] (Kimon
   Papahadjopulos) First of all, like most everything else, this skill
   comes with practice, and at first that is really hard to do since you
   don't know how to do it yet. The first thing you have to do is find is
   a good bunch of stairs to practice on. On the Berkeley Campus there is
   an ideal sight: one of the buildings is built on an incline so that
   the bottom floor is underground at the top of the hill and completely
   exposed on the bottom. Because of this, a stairway that runs the
   length of the building "fades away", so that there are no stairs at
   one end, but it builds up gradually to about twenty steps at the other
   end. Besides being very wide, the the steps are also very long. If you
   can find a set up like this, your halfway there already. This way you
   can practice with one or two steps, and move up one at a time when you
   get more confident. >When skating down narrow stairs, is it easier to
   go straight down >or is it easier to go at an angle? It seems like
   going at an >angle might be easier because it would provide more
   opportunity >to have both skates in contact simultaneously. Can you
   really go down truly narrow stairs at an angle? On a wide bunch of
   stairs, going down at an angle is much easier because you don't go
   nearly as fast. This is essential when you are learning. >How should
   your weight be distributed? Should it be equally >distributed, shifted
   mostly to the leading leg, or shifted mostly >to the trailing leg?
   Almost all on the trailing leg. The front leg is mostly a guide. >Does
   having a brake on one skate increase the risk of a fall? >Since the
   brake extends beyond the rear of one skate, my concern >is that it
   might get caught on the edge of a step. Therefore, >should the skate
   with the brake lead, follow, or does it matter? Learn how to t-stop
   before you learn stairs. The back break is a hazard for any sort of
   trick, whether it be crossovers, skating backwards, or going down
   stairs. If you are interested in doing any of the above, it's well
   worth your while to learn how to get by without the back brake. It
   will probably save you a bunch of nasty falls. IMO, anyone that is
   trying to learn stairs with a brake is just asking for it. Generally,
   learning a t-stop is your first trick, since it's easier to learn, and
   makes most other tricks easier. It also kind of proves that you know
   what you are doing, and are ready for the next level. And you're right
   about the brake getting caught on the edge of each step. Also, when
   you are practicing, you often times are not in the best balance when
   you finish a set of stairs. If you happen to catch your brake when
   this happens, you are probaly going to end up on the pavement. >Is
   there a safe, piecemeal way to learn skating down stairs, or >should I
   necessarily expect to fall as part of the learning >process? Again, if
   you can find a nice set of stairs, you don't necessarily have to
   murder yourself. Practive on two or three stairs and then move up. But
   of course, wear full protective gear, and don't complain if your
   skates break. Rollerblade Lightnings are very sturdy, and hold up
   fairly well. I'm sure TRS's are good too, maybe even Macroblades and
   Aeroblades. But don't use Zetra's or any skate with a metal blade.
   SwitchIts in my experience are somewhat frigile for this sort of
   thing. !*!*! It should be understood that if you push beyond the level
   of your abilities, and you happen to land on your head, even with a
   helmut, you could kill yourself. !*!*! >Is stair skating always risky,
   even for those who have mastered >it, or is it fairly safe once a
   skater understands how it is >done? I have not done a lot because I
   have concerns about my knees: going down stairs really puts a lot of
   stress on your knees, as well as your skates. From what I have done, I
   believe that skating stairs becomes as easy as anything else after a
   while, as long as you know the particular staircase that you are going
   down, and there is no one walking up it. From:
   [e-mail] (Sean Ahern) >IMO, anyone that is trying
   to learn stairs with a brake is just asking >for it. Generally,
   learning a t-stop is your first trick, since it's >easier to learn,
   and makes most other tricks easier. No way....I learned you to skate
   down stairs by teaching myself to be aware of the brake and what I was
   doing with it. I have also taught other people how to do this as well.
   I think leaving the brake on makes you more aware of what your skates
   are doing. >It also kind of proves that you know what you are doing,
   and are ready >for the next level. Exactly my point about leaving the
   brake on. Now while I don't use the brake except when I have to do
   SUDDEN stops like when a car pulls in front of me, I think it's a good
   thing to leave on for safety's sake. >And you're right about the brake
   getting caught on the edge of >each step. Well, not if you have enough
   speed. I have found that stairs are actually harder at slow speeds.
   Going slowly, the edge of the stair will give a pivot that can throw
   off your balance. If you are going moderately fast, you just skate
   right down the stairs, almost as if they are one surface. You MUST
   make sure that one skate is in front of the other and your knees are
   bent deep. You also might crouch down a bit and lean forward. I have
   found that this helps me keep my balance. Don't lean forward too far
   or you will tumble forward. (not fun on stairs) >Also, when you are
   practicing, you often times are not in the best balance >when you
   finish a set of stairs. If you happen to catch your brake >when this
   happens, you are probaly going to end up on the pavement. Ahhhh, if
   you are not leaning backwards when you are going down, you shouldn't
   be in a position to catch your brake anywhere. >Again, if you can find
   a nice set of stairs, you don't necessarily have >to murder yourself.
   Practive on two or three stairs and then move up. Yes, this is very
   true. Start out on a wide set of stairs. If you can get one stair
   (kinda like a curb), try to keep going and get the next one. If you
   get pretty good at this, try doing them a little faster. You will
   learn the basic techniques of stairs this way and will soon be able to
   move onto steeper and steeper stairs. >>Is stair skating always risky,
   even for those who have mastered >>it, or is it fairly safe once a
   skater understands how it is >>done? >I have not done a lot because I
   have concerns about my knees: going >down stairs really puts a lot of
   stress on your knees, as well as your >skates. From what I have done,
   I believe that skating stairs >becomes as easy as anything else after
   a while, as long as you know the >particular staircase that you are
   going down, and there is no one walking >up it. It DOES get easy,
   after a while, but they are still challenging as every flight of
   stairs has a different slope and width to them. -- From:
   [e-mail] (Jim Aites) re: stair-riding (from an e-mail
   discussion...possible FAQ submital) >For the intermediate skater who
   hasn't tried stairs yet, what would you >say are the basic skills?
   Practicing curbs is a good idea, specially if you 'drop off' instead
   of 'hop off'. The difference being one of jumping vs riding. A short
   set of two or three easy stairs (with wide risers) would be the next
   step. >...t-stops with either foot. Probably backwards skating, too?
   180's and 380's are probably part of that as well. Not that these are
   *needed* for stair bashing, but if someone is doing this level of
   stuff then they could certainly handle stairs. >Is there anything else
   that people should master before they begin? No...not 'master', but
   there are a few things a person needs to know in order to be
   relatively successful at handling stairs: 1) a 'reasonable' speed is
   required! Contrary to common knowledge about the laws of physics,
   folks generally lose speed when going down stairs. Backwards bashing
   however, will actually cause one to GAIN speed. No, it's not
   'magic'... Many of us have started down a flight of stairs at a good
   speed, only to slow to a crawl, and end up 'bailing out' before
   reaching the bottom. This 'leap of faith' (hoping you can reach a flat
   spot when you throw yourself over the last few steps) is probably the
   most dangerous thing about riding stairs. So, if going forward - hit
   them at speed! The loss of speed is mostly due to that fact that folks
   tend to ride the stairs 'flat', instead of leaning into it and angling
   the skates as though on a hill. Riding 'flat' means that the slope
   isn't really affecting your speed. While bashing backwards, however,
   EVERYONE lets their heels lead the way and the foot naturally angles
   (er...toes up), thus restoring the 'slope' and gaining speed. While
   flat-riding, it doesn't matter what style you use...but keeping your
   weight on the trailing skate is relatively standard. Aggressive
   bashers often use a wider front-to-back skate placement, but more
   importantly, they LEAN into the slope to avoid losing speed. Note: go
   easy on this folks...nobody wants to see you do a header down the
   stairs. 2) they call it 'bashing' for a reason. Accept it! Yup,
   bashing, bone jarring, bouncing, slamming, and in general, beating
   yourself up (ok, your skates) while riding stairs is an expected part
   of the game. A willingness to accept that it feels uglier than it
   looks is needed. Hummm...some folks may argue that it 'looks as bad as
   it feels' as well! Either way, you've got to go with it. 3) backwards
   *IS* easier. But more intimidating. Honest! Because there is an extra
   'shock absorber' (ie your ankle can flex to your toes whereas your
   heel is pretty solid) and because your feet will naturally angle down,
   the backwards ride is a heck of a lot smoother than riding stairs
   frontwards. If you have trouble just 'going-for-it', then start slow,
   and use a hand-rail. (normally this is NOT a good thing to do) Keep a
   reasonable front-to-back stance and let everything flex! Note: If you
   find that going backwards is NOT easier/smoother, then please let me
   know. Not that anyone can help you at this point, but rather because
   I'd be curious to hear about the 'exception to the rule'. 4) failure
   to wear a helmet ANYTIME you are rolling backwards or doing stairs is
   (of course) enough to get you 'certified' (as insane) in most states.
   I was the first in our group to do 'killer' steps (4 flights of seven
   stairs each) backwards. I started from a standing-start at the top
   while clutching a hand-rail. The clutch turned into a light balancing
   guide after the first three steps...and then I was free-wheeling down
   the rest.

Curb Grinds And Wall Stalls


From: [e-mail] (Lawrence Chr-Jr Liu)

In an effort to revive the trick thread, I was wondering if anyone out there
in netland has performed a "front-side curb grind", as described in the latest
issue of InLine.  They mentioned rubbing surfboard wax on the steps to get a
better grind, but I was also wondering if the trick can be performed without
waxing.

Another question -- has anyone tried those smaller wheels for tricks, like
"Little Roxs" (I think that's what they're called).  Are they necessary for
rail slides, or can one just remove the third wheel and either slide on one's
frame or add a teflon plate?

The one trick I'm thinking of learning next is the 180 into stairs and riding
the rest of the stairs the rest of the way -- how important is it to land one's
wheels on the stairs?  Do I have to land both skates at the same time squarely
on the steps, or is it just jump and land and ride?

--

From: [e-mail] (Stephen J. Okay)

In article  klanac@ih-nxt05 (Chris Klanac) writes:
>[e-mail] (Lawrence Chr-Jr Liu) writes:
>
>>In an effort to revive the trick thread, I was wondering if anyone out there
>>in netland has performed a "front-side curb grind", as described in the lates
t
>>issue of InLine.  They mentioned rubbing surfboard wax on the steps to get a
>>better grind, but I was also wondering if the trick can be performed without
>>waxing.

Saw it, haven't tried it...

On the subject of 180's though, I've been trying something new during lunch
at work the past couple days. Skate down/across a parking lot, 'till you get
to a median/island. Curb-jump, followed by a 180, landing backwards, then
do whatever...(I've also been working on heel-to-heels, so I've been going
into one of these after I land, partially to practice them, but also because
they can start from a backwards skate, so it looks pretty cool)

I've avoided curb grinds 'cause I'm not sure how well my rails would hold
up to something abrasive like your average concrete curb. I'd probably
try it on something like one thats been painted "No Parking" and more
or less sealed though. Wax? ---maybe, but modding the turf seems a little
bogus to me...

--

From: [e-mail] (David Madeo)

In article  [e-mail] (Lawrence Chr-Jr Liu) writes:

  >In an effort to revive the trick thread, I was wondering if anyone out there
  >in netland has performed a "front-side curb grind", as described in the late
st
  >issue of InLine.  They mentioned rubbing surfboard wax on the steps to get a
  >better grind, but I was also wondering if the trick can be performed without
  >waxing.

You'll definately want to put some wax on.  Find out where the
skateboarders in your area wax the curbs and you'll be able to feel
the difference.  Rub the wax all around the edge of the curb.  I
suggest being precise where you start and stop the waxing.  When first
learning you can do a left foot plant on non waxed curb and then bring
the right foot on to the wax, start sliding and bring the left foot
on.  It's really important that you get used to skating up to a curb
and jumping onto and off of it at different speeds and angles.  It
takes a while to get used to landing and balancing with a curb between
the 2nd and 3rd wheels.

A trick that people are just starting to do around here is to do a
plate/frame scrape and click into a curb grind.

Another much harder is to do a 180/360 to land on the curb for a curb
slide.  Start by just trying to land, then move on to the slide.

Supposedly the "latest" is to do sole grinds, but I don't see any
great reason to try them.  Stand next to a curb, put the outside edge
of your frame and the bottom of the boot (the sole) against the corner
of the curb.  Put your whole weight on this, take the other foot and
out it in front in the traditional grind angle.  Do this at high
speed.

I just learned how to do stairs at the courthouse.  If you saw that
ABC show two weeks ago, it's the same stairs Aton tumbled on.

--

From: [e-mail] (Spectre)

        The reason they suggest waxing, is because they don't suggest
taking off the 3rd wheel back.  If you take off the 3rd wheel, you will
slide a lot better.  I suggest that you make some type of a shield or plate
to protect your frame.  If you look in the same issue of In-line, thereis
an article about people in New York.  Look at the picture of the FR group's
skates...one has a shield to protect his frame, one doesn't.  If you look
between the wheels on the skate that doesn't, you  will see what will
happen if you do too many curb grinds without the shield  (his frames are
chipped away between the 2ond and 3rd wheel, and the 3rd and 4th).  When
you take off the wheel, you won't really need the wax...but it's easier
to learn with the wheel in, since your skates will 'lock' onto the stair
between the wheels, instead of having a free sliding space, and you'll
slide better with the wax.  once you get good at angling your feet, you
will be able to slide on your frames without having to take off the wheel.


>Another question -- has anyone tried those smaller wheels for tricks, like
>"Little Roxs" (I think that's what they're called).  Are they necessary for
>rail slides, or can one just remove the third wheel and either slide on one's
>frame or add a teflon plate?

        I havn't tried the little wheels yet (actually I don't see myself
trying them at all, I don't really want the loss of speed, or the added
wear on my bearings...)  Right now I have a sheet metal plate on my skate
where the 3rd wheel was, and I'm looking around for a hunk of plastic
(any suggestions in the eastern MA, southern NH area?)  to make a more
sturdy and less makeshift slider.

>The one trick I'm thinking of learning next is the 180 into stairs and riding
>the rest of the stairs the rest of the way -- how important is it to land one'
s
>wheels on the stairs?  Do I have to land both skates at the same time squarely
>on the steps, or is it just jump and land and ride?

        It all depends how you bash.  Do you have to keep your weight
distributed evenly, or can you pick up a skate when you are going down.
If you bash with even weight, then you will want to land pretty much im
the same position that you would be if you bashed to that point...if you
can pick up a foot, then you just need to land on the dominant foot, then
you can adjust yourself to a more comfortable position as you bash down.
One suggestion...work on just jumping into the stairt and going from there
before you start trying 180's into them....it will hurt alot less if you
screw up going forwards then going backwards (spines smacking cement stairs
isn't really my idea of a good time :)


--

From: [e-mail] (James A Holroyd-1)

Jeff, I noticed this, too.  The frames look *really* hacked on.
Your shield sounds like a good idea, but it doesn't sound like metal would
either last too long or slide too well to be of any use... I recommend
that you use some skateboard rails (Powell-Peralta Gorilla Ribs were my
favorite, but I don't know if they still make them)... they last forever
and slide forever.  Just cut one down so it fits between your wheels,
epoxy it to your shield, and slide on.
        I've also been thinking about making a rail that fits between the
2nd and 3rd wheels on my skates... just a small piece of plastic that
would either clip or screw into the cross brace in my lightning should
work.  Anbody seen anything like this?  It would reduce the ground
clearance of the skate, but this shouldn't be a problem.  I think it would
make it way easier (and less harsh on the frames) to rail-slide.

Steve: Yep, they're fun, aren't they?  Haven't done them (180 jumps over
curbs) to a
heel-to-heel, but I have kept rotating and sort of spun around in a crouch
to a forward position again once I land... it's not that hard, and it
feels like a 360, 'cept you're only in the air for half of it.  I still
haven't got the courage to try 360's over a curb yet.

--

From: [e-mail] (Kenneth Creta)

In article , [e-mail] (Douglas J. Narby) writes:
>
> Sounds cool, Ken, but now we have three jargon terms:
>
> Stall, Curb Grind and Rail Slide.
>
> Anybody care to DEFINE them?   Throw in any more us newbies are unlikely

Imagine standing in front of a wall about 3 ft high or so (on your feet).
Now imagine jumping up onto it with both feet, "stalling" there for a second,
and jumping back down.  That idea except on blades is a stall.  That is also
a VERY basic stall.  Now try jumping off the wall to one or more other nearby
walls and doing a 360 in the air before landing.  That's a cool stall.  Keep
in mind that in order to land stable on the wall, you really have to land on
the corner such that the front two wheels are above the wall and the rear two
wheels are below:      o
                     ___o foot
                        |o
                wall    | o

I think a curb grind might be the same thing but on a curb instead.

A rail slide is just what it sounds like.  Approach a low rail pretty much
parallel.  Then jump up onto it as if you're stalling it but instead of jumping
onto it and stopping, you slide down it as far as you can.  I can't seem to
find a railing that would lend itself to this (i.e., low enough).


From: [e-mail] (Stephen J. Okay)

Well, after exchanging messages with some of our resident bladerats
here on the group, I went out and thought I'd try a few of the tricks
that have been described here with varying degrees of success...
The university here I usually blade around has some interesting structures,
so I used those for this.

Rail Slide: Didn't work so hot, but I think thats 'cause I'm too
worried about losing my balance, my hands won't let go of the rail,
or let me rest on my wristguards to let me slide down. A good
way to practice this is to find a "double" railing to do on.
Should look like this:

             \
           \  \  \  \               easier)
on this one| \  \
             |\_/


  __________________________________________________________________________





Skitching

From: [e-mail] (Dyer Crouch)
Subject: Re: [INL] Skitching?
Sender: [e-mail] (Net News)
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 1995 00:28:53 GMT

>> I've been wondering if any of you brave bastards
>> have.  (It's grabbing on to cars, well moving ones that is, well
>> and holding on and not just getting them plowwed into you like I
>> have had the misfortune of doing.)

Yep, and I love it!!

What do ya want to know? I can give you my do's and don'ts & if you have
any other questions let me know.

First, don't grab a vehicle which is going a much different speed than you
are. Smaller cars and trucks can feel the slight momentum change and often
figure out what is going on and will hit the brakes or find the nearest
phone & call the cops on you. Both have happened to me. :(

Second, do it on streets which you are real familiar with and know have a
good surface. When you change grades of road or hit potholes at high speed
it sucks.

Third, look where the exhaust pipe is. Hooking city busses is my favorite,
but they make this HUGE plume of SMELLY dust when they first come out of a
stop. Stop signs/lights are also great places to wait for a vehicle to come
up to and stop, saddle up behind the puppy & hook on.

Fourth, the bigger the better. Larger vehicles change speed much less and
do it slower than cars, vans etc... Big trucks that ride real high are good
too since you can see under the truck.

Fifth, careful of the turns. You can get slingshoted if you are on the
outside edge of a vehicle on a turn. LOTS of fun when you do it in control,
but when you aren't, it is a major butt puckering ride.

Sixth, HAVE A SAFE EXIT AVENUE! If you are hanging on at high speeds, you
need to make sure you have someplace to go when you let go. If you are
being pulled into tight areas, get off and change directions and or brake.
It sucks getting checked into stationary objects.

And last but not least, how to hold on. Use both hands. One hand you will
hook under the bumper or around what ever you are grabbing on to, and the
other hand you want to use to brace yourself with in case the vehicle slows
or stops. I usually have my palm straight out against the vehicle's bumper
for this. Your best position to do this is in a crouch with your arms out
in front of you until you get good and can do things in whatever position
and grab you want.

Ooops... one more.
Don't do anything to anyone's vehicle while hooking on which you would not
want done to yours, and mind the pedestrians. They see you as a maniacle
eight wheeled missle, which you are.  :)



From: [e-mail] (DuckMan)
Subject: Re: [INL] Skitching?
Date: 10 Feb 1995 23:16:37 GMT


I've found that the best way to 'Skitch' is just to 'lay on hands'.  The
best way to do this is to skate to the vehicel approaching it from behind
(note: you have to be going as fast or faster then the vehicle for this to
work) then just place one hand on the vehicle (ie. the trunk or bumper).
Do not grab the vehicle, the friction from your hand should be enogh to
keep you with the vehicle, but if the vehicle make any rash moves it will
shake you without ripping your arm off.

This only works on flats or downhills.  To go uphill you have to hang on.

btw: Stitchin is still dangerous anyway you do it, if you don't have
    a death wish don't try it. :)




  __________________________________________________________________________






-Tony Chen ([e-mail])



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